Pressureangle

Awesome. Wish I'd been able to make it; Try again next year.

There was never a question about when, only about how many. It'll take a minute to run through the quoting process, as materials, supply chain, and labor rates have all increased substantially since the first batch. I'm already on it.

The closest DG ride to me is 3 hours. Pity.

My 'Sport driveshaft is different from the V11 shaft, and getting the old joint out was something I need Pete Roper's sailor's vocabulary to describe. I had to push the caps out of one yoke as far as possible, reach in with a brand-new diameter cutoff wheel, cut a leg off and then wedge the first cap out by prying in the cut. I won't do that again short of an imminent failure, and bought a good used shaft to put in place when that happens. Docc, how did your change go?

That was discussed- Pete said there were some cracking failures in early prototype plates; I don't recall the specifics about materials and thicknesses but these are made so there is no question about durability. I did install longer bolts with mine.

Well, I got nothin'. There's another joint very very close to these dimensions- maybe 2 millimeters bigger- that is possibly the most common joint on the planet for farm implements. Why Mother Goose chose to use something 2mm less than common beats me.

It never occurred to me before to ask, why do they stock these in Canada *at all*? I was not able to discover any other vehicle but some obscure Russian 4x4 ATV that uses this size. Curious.

More than one person told me I was insane to make 50 and that they'd never sell.

Are the flywheel bolts symmetrical on the crank? Many manufacturers offset one hole so you can't change the orientation even if you want to.

You're a day late; I'm out. I'll have more made as soon as I figure out the costs and quantities.

Sorry to report that my last plate has been sold. I had 50 plates made, and it took 4 years to use them all; I can have them made at any time, but every plate sold is one less needed and these bikes are getting older and fewer every day so I have to consider how many to have made again. Certainly the price of manufacture and material will have gone up, and there is a minimum quantity for economy which I also have to discover. So at this point I will ask that anyone interested PM me and leave a reply here to start a list so I have some idea how to move forward with the next batch.

The fairing, yeah... too easy. 2 screws in the front sides, 2 in the tank ends, and the mirrors. The tricky part is getting it past the forks; turn the forks fully to one side or the other, and stretch anxiously. It's a bit easier if you have the tank off but not much. Putting it back on has the additional PITA of coupling the intake hoses. Overall it's very simple if a little aggro. FWIW next time my front's off I'll take the advice of others to replace the axle pin nut with a common hex nut.

My fuel cap is a leaky rat also, I wonder if it's the same as later V11s.

I asked Pete Roper about plates for the old square sumps, he said it's of no value except perhaps in the most extreme racing scenarios.

I bought a Pit Bull stand locally on FB marketplace. It works great. I have no front stand.

Subliminal co-inkidink

"Anti-Fascist Blues" opens with the riff from Rivers's "Memphis".

Caught that lead-in on ScooRoo's Blues, eh?

2003 was the middle of 5 years of not owning a motorcycle. The only time since before I had a driver's license.

It is with a 33" inseam and good ankle flexion. Just. One day I'm going to make a proper stand that fastens elsewhere.

The Sport has a small peg sticking up from the foot, about 2" long. It's a stretch to get at.

I wish I had a nickel for every time I forgot a sidestand. I was conflicted about removing the auto-retract feature from my 'Sport, but it's been on the ground 4 times due to the auto-retract, and zero times from hitting the stand while moving. So off it went. Starting in gear, not so common but pretty familiar also. :/

I have the problem of South Florida- heat cycles, intense sun, humidity and rain. I've taken to using aerosol Cosmoline on everything that needs preservation without lubrication. https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/

temperature sensor on my '97 1100 Sport-i. I think it's 'oil' temp but indicates general engine temp to the ECU.

A simple test is to connect a 12v test lamp in series between the solenoid power wire and ground. If it lights every time, look to the starter/solenoid. If it doesn't, look to relay/connectors/wire rubs. When you say 'click' do you mean the underseat relay, or do you mean the starter solenoid? If the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn that's a certainty of trouble in the starter itself.