Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

35 Excellent

About PeterT

  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    Ghezzi-Brian V11Trofeo
  • Location
    Rugby, UK

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Motorbike touring, Engineering, Woodwork and furniture making, Music, Sailing

Recent Profile Visitors

336 profile views
  1. I found this thread v. useful since I too found my small, outer, unsealed needle cage all rusted up just like the pictures shown. Greasing it at every tyre change is a "must" from now on! So armed with this info I bought myself a slide hammer bearing puller (only £35 from Amazon), a new needle bearing and inner race and a canister of freeze release. I did try "wacking" the back of the bearing to drive it out from the other side using a thick steel rod before I realised that I was just hitting a thick steel washer that the bearing is squashed against that appears to be trapped in by a st
  2. Thanks for some good suggestions that I'm sure will be helpful to me and any others who have this specific problem. Thanks
  3. Yesterday I looked on this excellent forum for any ideas that may explain poor cranking and starter performance that rather suddenly appeared when I tried starting in the morning after a fairly cold night (around 6deg.C 43F) a few weeks ago. I first assumed that, after 5 seasons my LiPO battery was starting to age and with the cold and higher oil viscosity that this was the problem so I bought a new battery. The effect seemed to be temperature related; always being a problem when cold starting. The new battery didn't cure the problem; hence my looking at the forum. There didn't seem to be
  4. I've had a a Lithium Iron battery fitted for 5 seasons and it has not needed any change to the regulator at all. In fact I have a voltmeter fitted. The battery starts at about 13.2V with the 6A pre-starting load. Once it starts the voltage slowly rises as the generator recharges the battery from the starting load and the regulator gets it up to about 13.9-14V max which the makers say is perfect. I got it fitted by Ghezzi Brian in Italy and this was the battery they recommended. I'm sure they have lots of experience with these. BC battery BCTZ14S-FP-S.BC do a range. I got it on e-bay fo
  5. The best way of thinking about what is happening is to think of the way you would arrange for a relay to latch itself ON and not turn off. The way this is achieved is to connect up the contacts so that if you energise the coil, it switches connects a live (12V) feed to the side of the coil being energised. So, when the initial coil energisation is removed, the relay stays energised directly from the battery. This is what is happening on the V11. The lights are connected directly to the battery; they don't go through the ignition switch but, if everything works correctly, the ignition switc
  6. OK. This I can understand. Fuses 6 and 7 power the parking lights and direction indicators and are turned on by the ignition switch that feeds them from contact 2 on the ignition switch. So, when you turn off the ignition switch, they should stop working. What has confused us is that the rest keeps working. But this is understandable because it is only the wiring from contact 3 of the ignition switch that is being kept on by the fault short-circuit between the Red/Black wire coming from the Lights mini-relay. Since this is fed directly from the battery via Fuse 4, it doesn't go through t
  7. The 10-way is strapped to the down-frame tube under the tank but near to the steering head bearing. I think the 12-way is somewhere close, either to the 10-way or nearer to the instrument panel. I can't be too certain as my V11 was modified by Ghezzi Brian and had a new dashboard and headlights but looking on the parts list diagram, there seem to be two large connectors (the 10 and presumably the 12) in similar positions which look like being near the steering head bearing Your further diagnostic tests are very interesting particularly the fact that the parking and direction indicators
  8. I agree with the comments of previous contributors but, to me, the most revealing and interesting bit of information that would seem to help locate the problem is the rather odd phenomenon that the engine does shut down when you pull in the clutch and press the start button. This action energises the starter relay which, apart from putting voltage on the starter motor contactor, it turns off the voltage powering the Lights Relay, thus de-energising the lights, including brake lights, headlights etc while starting. This is fed from Fuse F5, so I would anticipate that pulling out fuse F5 would
  9. These were the Italian Alps just south west of Silvaplana, the day before I brought it back from Ghezzi Brian. You can get the bits and do it yourself - nice winter project, but I got them to do it for me by driving the bike down, leaving it a month and then driving it back. The conversion was to a V11 Trofeo but I added a few optional extras; the big one was the alloy swinging arm, but less expensive were the wave discs, lithium iron battery and high efficiency air filters. I also got the carbon fibre front and rear mudguards and belly pan - though these are cosmetic and it had a CF front m
  10. I agree with the thought that a 2nd V11 should be customised. I wanted a modern spine framed equivalent to my old red LeMans so went to Ghezzi Brian for their conversion. It transformed the bike and the handling and took 30kg off it. If you don't mind drop bars; that's what I'd do. I've had it for 4 years now and I still don't want anything else.
  11. Since I got my V11 converted by Ghezzi Brian in Italy in April 2016 it's been running on a BC Lithium LiFePO4 BCTZ14S-FP-S 12V 54Wh lightweight battery. I keep it on an Optimate lithium battery charger when it's in the garage. The standard rectifier works ok; when running and during charging the voltage drifts up to 14V and shows the fully charged voltage of about 13.1 - 13.3V when you next switch on the ignition and the lights go on before the engine cranks. It has plenty of cranking current due to the really low internal resistance. The overall capacity is lower but how many times do
  12. I have an original carbon front mudguard for sale that was taken off a V11 Cafe Sport with the Ohlins front forks at 4300miles when I had it converted by GhezziBrian. It is in pristine condition. I'm not looking to sell it cheaply as it ought to go to someone who really wants it to keep their V11 as original since they are no longer available.
  13. PeterT


  14. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience of changing the overall gear ratio on a 2005V11, perhaps by changing the ring and pinion gears? I am considering whether it would be desirable to gear the bike up just a small amount to reduce cruising revs and perhaps increase top speed as on the German Autobahn it seemed to be capable of more speed if the revs didn't get above 7.5k. Any thoughts?
  15. I had leaks on my Ohlins seals which you know you've got when oil starts appearing on your boots. I took the bike in and got them changed with new fork oil which was probably due at 12kmiles. But after less than one year and about 3-4kmiles more one started leaking again. I got an inexpensive Seal Mate (www.sealmate.net), although a piece of 35mm film stock cut into the right curve may do it, and after removing the mudguard for better access, slipped it under the seal lip and slowly rotated it and withdrew it. I couldn't see any dirt. I then pumped the seals but even after 5 times it was
  • Create New...