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Everything posted by Nihontochicken

  1. This framed work of art goes up for grabs in a garage sale two weekends from now. Not sure about the model of the scooter, but it's got to be Italian, and the pilot sure knows how to maximize his fun! Would anyone here like to cop out to a similar riding style? Inquiring minds!
  2. Sorry, it showed when I first posted this, dunno what happened. Try again:
  3. Depending on the explanation ofor the new bodywork, it could be Ben Dover.
  4. Hahahaha! Ain't that the truth! Of course, Guzzi has a grand tradition of tank fires. For the few here who might be unaware, the first MG LeMans editions had a metal tank with a spring loaded cap locked with a spring detente. They lacked the rocker cover add-on spark plug protectors that later models have. So when an unfortunate rider dropped his running LeMans, the impact would pop open the gas cap at the same time the asphalt broke free the spark plug wire. Fuel, check. Ignition source, check. Oxygen, check. Voila, the patented Moto Guzzi LeMans tank fire, grab the marshmallows! A
  5. I've always been leery of electrics inside the gas tank. The "air" space above the liquid is generally near 100% gas fumes, but there is a chance that some real air (oxygen) can get in and make the mixture explosive, particularly in a nearly empty tank. The most infamous fuel tank explosion occurred in TWA Flight 800 over NY City in 1976. Note that jet fuel (kerosene) is not as inherently explosive as is gasoline. Here's a link to the Wiki coverage: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TWA_Flight_800
  6. And why can't current production MGs look this good???
  7. Can't answer the question, but I have a similar concern. When I take my Suzuki DR650 around town (air cooled single, essentially one-half of a V11, Japanese style), on return checking the oil cooler shows that it's barely warm. The same trip on my V11 and the oil cooler is damned hot, maybe not to boiling water, but too hot to touch beyond a fraction of a second. A major diff between the two scooters. Is one too hot, or one too cold, or are they both just right for their particular engineering aims?
  8. What these guys said. Pushrods are all that's needed for a 500cc+ piston that will never see five digit RPM. Then again, a bevel drive shaft overhead cam system like the '70s Ducatis would be super spiff, especially with a "gear gazer" window at the top bevel, not to mention the ability to adjust the valves on the bench. Big manufacturing bucks, though.
  9. Does it leak oil and refuse to run at times?
  10. Looks familiar! Here's the link to my leak thread. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21629-my-first-oil-leak/ Snippet: "Also, I noticed all the hold down bolts were the same size except the top rear bolt, which is markedly shorter. Is this correct, or a Bubba mistake? Also one and only one steel washer dropped free from one of the bolt seats. Should all, some or none of these Allen head hold down bolts use washers?" Looks like Bubba really gets around!
  11. It appears that Guzzi under the auspices of Piaggio has very limited R&D funding and a loss of sense of direction post V11 and MGS-01. Some of the ensuing small block bikes have a small bit of the old LeMans flair, but certainly not the performance. The large block entries have been a styling disaster as well as technically disappointing at times. It may be that the air cooled big cylinder has become an anachronism in the modern emissions world. If water cooling is now technically mandatory for good performance, then the reason for the traditional MG layout goes away (two jugs sticking
  12. Nope, nope, nope ...
  13. Oooooohhh, bright red valve covers. Must resist, must resist ...
  14. I'll take the OEM fairing: 100.00 + shipping PM to follow.
  15. Getting into the swing of social distancing now. Here I am today about to go to the grocery store:
  16. I've done nothing, this is how the scooter came fro the original owner. I'm guessing it's just the amount of bolting force on the bar anchor. When I dropped the bike on its left side in the driveway , the bar anchor joint didn't rotate, only the ball joint moved, enough to keep the mirror from breaking (a scuff on the rim only).
  17. As I mentioned in another thread, I'm happy with my CRG barend mirrors, tucked in, give a decent rear view, and one of mine even survived the V11 driveway drop test. CRG makes many other styles, link below if interested (no relation, my mirrors came with the bike when I bought it). http://www.constructorsrg.com/mirrors/index.html
  18. Here's a closer shot of the critical parts (not showing the typical T-handle and bit holder on opposite ends). I'm quite limited on the size of pictures I can post here, so this is the best I can do after shrinking the frame, and hence the rather small pics earlier. Shown also is the original mailing box, but I don't still have the receipt, alas. Now that I think of it, the tool may have cost closer to $75, but I'm just guessing now, it was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away. Note, I corrected a misstatement in my post above. "Depending on how far the sliding hammer is
  19. Colder ... Warmer ... And we have a winner! It is indeed a specialized impact driver. Depending on which way the sliding hammer is rotated with respect to the Delrin buttons, the tool may be used to either tighten or loosen screws or bolts. The degree of rotation will vary how much force is delivered to seat the screw or bolt and how much is applied as a torque. Once loosened, a fastener could then be unscrewed with the T-handle wrench. It was made about fifty years by Joe Bolger of Barre, Mass. I think it was about $50, a fair piece of change back then. What a "serious"
  20. Here are the tools I generally use: A bit more seriously, as I was going through my old tools, I came up with this one. Anyone wish to identify what it is? Bonus points for naming the maker and approximate year of manufacture. Double bonus points for explaining why this tool was intended as an improvement over its more usual competitors.
  21. I have Shinko on my DR650, works decently for the street. For the dirt, well, okay for a smooth fire road, but that's as technical a situation as I want to push an overweight, undersuspended pig like a DR650 anyway. As an aging serious trail rider who gave it up a few years back, here's my rant (again?): Any tire that works well in the dirt will get burned up in a thousand miles or less of street riding and then be worthless in the dirt. Any tire that can last a few thousand miles on the street is about worthless in the dirt from the gitgo. Of course, I'm talking serious dirt riding her
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