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rich888

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Posts posted by rich888

  1. Anyone able to post a pic of the steering damper?

     

    Specifically, the rod end fixings where it attaches to the forks.

    There are two dished washers. Do these go either side of the rod end ball?  I assume they cup the spherical bearing?

     

    Thanks.

     

     

  2. On 1/8/2021 at 6:20 PM, shaun said:

    Check that your starter button is not stuck in, thus engaging the starter although the engine is running, this will make the screech noise, this happened to my 2001, a quick dap of WD40 and the starter button and some adjustment on the cluster and it was fixed, 

    And the prize goes to Shaun! Well done that man!

    Got the bike out today and had the screech back again. I then noticed that the lights were dimming as soon as I touched the clutch lever along with the screech.... WTF I thought and then saw the poxy starter button was stuck in. The clutch lever switch was engaging the starter!

    Came back on here to post the update and saw your post!

    • Like 9
  3. 18 hours ago, docc said:

    I don't know anywhere here in The States that annual inspection would find something like that. Removing it for MOT seems a good approach.

    I always perform my own Annual Roadworthiness Test, also known as The South'n Spine Raid.  :grin:  :luigi:

    It does not seem that the linear play would impair the function of the damper.  Is there radial play (side to side)?

    The damper works fine as does the joint on the head of it. The joint that attaches to the forks has the play which, for some reason is only up and down. The ball isn't rattling about loose, it just seems to be able to move up and down a bit.

    I've found replacement rod ends from £5 upwards depending on material and bearing material so I'll just pop a new one on.

    • Like 1
  4. 10 hours ago, docc said:

    Does it actually show any play swinging the forks side to side?

    Nope, just up and down and the the swivel is quite loose. The MOT guy mentioned it last year but didn't fail it, so was curious about these just being like this or was it really shagged. You guys in the States don't have to worry about an annual road worthyness test right?

    I can just take it off for the test!

     

  5. 9 hours ago, Chuck said:

    It's toast.

    :lol:

    Yep, but seems odd for it to wear so much, unless of course it's cr@p materials and once it gets slightly loose, vibration takes care of the rest...

    They seem pricey for what they are (£300 list! Really???), so I'll see if I can find a new joint rather than the whole thing.

  6. 1 hour ago, docc said:

    Clutch release/ "throw out" bearing seems very plausible . There is certainly no very much to it.

         IMG_2615.JPG

    Good news is that it is accessible beneath the slave cylinder rather than having to pull the entire gearbox . . .

    IMG_2726.JPG

    Cheers Docc,

     

    Not done much spanner time on my Guzzi, its been pretty reliable until today.

     

    What needs to come off to get get access to the slave cylinder? (just been looking through a load of workshop manual PDF's and not found much about it)

  7. Took the V11 Sport out today for a quick run. I noticed a horrible sounding screeching noise as I pull the clutch in.

    Seems to start the moment I put some pressure on the lever and stops when fully pulled in.

    Silent when let fully out.

    I assume the clutch release bearing has gone bang?

    Happened suddenly not gradually after a month or two of sitting in the garage.

    It's a 2001 bike.

     

    Any ideas? Cheers.

  8. I had some MIVVs on my V11 and although it sounded great, I found that it was just too loud after about 20 mins in the saddle!

    I put some stock cans on and it's now really quiet - maybe too quiet (LOL!), but I have noticed that there seems to be a loss of power in the midrange. Is that likely to be due to the stock cans, or just coincedence?

    I haven't checked TPS, valves etc etc lately, so might just have drifted off tune a bit or are the stock cans really that restrictive?

     

    Cheers!

     

  9. On 6/13/2019 at 9:12 PM, swooshdave said:

    Good find as Delphi Aptiv don't make the mating half (the side that is part of the TPS). I guess kojaykat got some made somewhere?

    In the end I broke out the whole ECU connector! (I was connecting into some other pins too though...)

  10. 1 hour ago, luhbo said:

    No, that's not normal. That's why I asked. Check the phase sensor. You'll probably find it mounted with way to much distance to the tooth wheel. I recently found this on two engines, both probably as they came from the factory. I removed a 1.5mm shim and changed the 0.5 one to a 0.8mm (two were mounted, so it was 2 mm). Now I have it sitting with 0.5mm clearance - and that cured a lot. At least it's driveable again.

    It's a Hall sensor, this type is ageing. When new it obviously works also with a gap that big, after nearly 20 years now it doesn't. 

    The interesting part is why especially at 3000 the problem becomes so obvious. Anyhow, check the gap and better get a new sensor. And report your findings please :)

    I forgot: I tried several different maps. Would have been better to watch the tach needle earlier and think about what it wanted to tell me.

    I will defo check phase sensor.

    Anyone know how the tach signal is generated? Does the ECU generate it or does it come from the TDC sensor?

  11. On 5/23/2019 at 6:21 PM, luhbo said:

    So where exactly do you pick up the signals? Between sensor and ECU or between ECU and Tach? As written by others further above the wheel/sensor feeds the ECU, the ECU feeds the tach. Go on MyECU.biz for further infos and details. This man knows his stuff.

    Sorry, missed this question! Signals for injectors comes direct from injector drive wires, T'ed off where they come out of the ECU. RPM is from the tacho wire going to the gauge and the glitchy RPM data is read from the ECU via the diagnostics port.

  12. 3 minutes ago, luhbo said:

    What happened to the misleading and jumping tach needle? The bike's still running fine, also when hot?

    I ignore the tach and am in the process of making a nice digital dashboard!

    I found that the tacho gauge is very sensitive to the tacho signal drive level. Doesn't take much to stop it working. I expect that there are dry capacitors inside the gauge which are making it malfunction.

     

    At some point I will muster enough enthusiasm to get inside it and have a look...

     

    The missfire is still there, even with a different map. I am also in the process of building a data logger to capture injection times and spark timings while riding to see if I can see what casuses the missfire.

    I got a bit distracted by finding out that the ECU reported RPM ws glitchy, but this appears to be 'normal'.

  13. Best way to find drop outs is with a digital scope. Needn't be expensive. Hantek 20mhz scope to put on a laptop is £60 here in UK. There are even cheaper scope kits.

    You'll see a nice plot of the TPS voltage and the knee point.

  14. Here's a plot showing injector timing too. Looks like the glitches reported by the ECU are just errors. Doesn't seen to change fueling...

    This is 32 seconds long, with two gear changes. The glitches are there in blue and the red trace is the tacho signal to the rev counter. Green is injector pulse duration.

     

     

    guzzi glitches.jpg

  15. Re hall effect TPS. You'd have to be really really sure it was impervious to stray magnetic effects. Imagine if it read full scale suddenly...

    I wonder if an optical encoder or resolver would be better? Both need additional electronics to generate an analog output though.

    We used to use 'pots' in CCTV cameras for position sensing. There wore out regularly. Then we moved to plastic track pots, as used in servo motors etc. These lasted 10 times longer. Then we moved to resolvers which last forever as there are no contact points at all. Very accurate.

    We tested a hall type sensor, actually a magnetic angle sensor from AMS. It worked but it wasn't completely linear and needed a calibration run to iron out the bumps. According to AMS these are used for automotive drive by wire applications.

    I wonder if the ECU range checks the TPS readings?

  16. Got my datalogger to record the tacho signal directly and this is the log:

     

    The green trace is RPM reported by the ECU. The red trace is RPM calculated from the frequency of the tacho signal.

     

    I also found that the tacho signal can't handle much of a load. An extra 5mA load of the opto isolator led I'm using is enough to drop the tacho voltage down sufficiently to stop the tacho dial working.

     

    Anyway, it seems clear that the glitches reported by the ECU are not there on the Tacho signal!

    Need to check the RPM/TDC signal too.

     

    Question is, is the ECU reporting the glitches because its using this value of RPM in computing injector timing? I need to repeat the logging with injector timing to check...

     

    RPM from ecu and tacho.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  17. 4 minutes ago, MartyNZ said:

    I don't know what the ECU does with the sensor signal. All I know is the sensor RPM & TDC signals go into the ECU pins 7 & 12, and the ECU output to the tacho is from pin 3.

    Meinolf has delved into the ECU,  so perhaps he can help you. 

    So there's a TDC and RPM sensor?

    I was looking at the service manual for a 2002 V11 LeMans and found item 34 Phase/Revolution sensor. 

  18. 5 minutes ago, MartyNZ said:

    Mad bunny showed an oscilloscope trace of the sensor output here:

    https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20673-mgs01-no-spray-no-spark/

    It's a different engine, but the sensor is the same.

     

    Thanks! I will stick a scope on mine today.

    Do you know if the Tacho signal from the ECU is derived directly from the TDC sensor or generated by the ECU software?

     

    I'll scope both and see what they look like....

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