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Everything posted by Purloined

  1. Found a pic. 93. Tho an old pic. Fuel price double $ now. why is it so difficult to clip a tiny image to a post here?
  2. I read (tho 'glazed' prlly more descriptive) the link you sent (I can't find the underwear in my drawer any given morning, how are you able to conjure a six year old post? Kudos). I'll read and re-read. Thank you. High-test fuel available here in Connecticut, which I exclusively use, is 93 octane. I think. Maybe it is 91. I need to pay more attention.
  3. I'm once again inclined to test the normally sweet, polite temperament of the many here with another bout of my stupid questions. I did sift through countless posts about the issues that induced this, to be clear. I was stunned at the fuel consumption of my 2000V11 at +/- mid-thirties when I purchased it five years ago. My 1980 Le Mans averaged in the mid to high forties. A recent post regarding average mileage has assuaged my assumption that something was seriously amiss. My VDub TDI, even with fat, sticky tires manages closer to 45. It is possible that a performance disparity exists between the two, though not empirical, I've good reason to believe it true. They're both balls-of-fire in their own way; I don't feel a need to belabor the differences at a drag strip or elsewhere. I, as others have also noted, experience some detonation on hard acceleration. I don't tend run the motor at higher RPM generally. It does not feel like it is lugging at lower RPM in sixth gear, pulls strongly, and I often don't downshift when hard on the throttle. Perhaps the detonation is a result of the way I'm riding it and I should expect that this is a normal given what I'm asking of it. But given these characteristics and possible remedies, I'm wondering about the balancing of fuel supply and ignition timing. Someone here suggested a Tecmate Carbmate fuel injection synchronizer. This appears a more sophisticated version of the old mercury tube vacuum balancer I used to use on my old, carbureted two cylinder motorcycles. Is there a port on the throttle bodies that this would attach to and is it a purely mechanical adjustment of the throttle cable assembly? Worth the price of purchase? And ignition timing? Monitored by the sensor reading the position of the camshaft? Not the dual points version on my old Le Mans of days of yore that looked like caveman flints? No tweaking necessary? In the old days I would mechanically address the state of these and other adjustments given detonation and 'poor' fuel mileage. I have gone through the bike, i.e. valve lash, fuel/oil/air filters, spark plugs and new leads etc and the machine runs to my mind well and sounds great. I get burbling when I'm off the throttle, the exhaust is (I think OEM) somewhat loud and seems fine. I'm not sure what the ~3000RPM 'cough' people describe is. I'll talk to my therapist about accepting the fact that is guzzles fuel, but the detonation is not cool. I took it on a spirited ride today (roughly 45ºF); the achingly cacophonous detonation a sharp lil'needle in my ear. I can't stick to a script, a couple of questions in a succinct paragraph. Sorry to the pummeled few who managed to hold on to this linguistic roller coaster in order to get to here. Hardy thanks.
  4. I heartily endorse what DOCC wrote. Grateful for the generosity and spirit of the folk out and about here.
  5. If I go to sleep with a V11 wiring harness under my pillow, or whatever electrical part imparts the most wisdom, will I wake up as all-knowing as you guys in the morning? Is that what you do? No. I don't think so. I will have awful creases in my cheek and sheets stained from the charcoal-black, burned wires.
  6. I'll do my best, but they usually jam the mimeograph machine. They say I should be more careful with my graham crackers and milk. I think they're just lazy and don't want to crank the thing.
  7. Wow, Kiwi_Roy, exhaustive. I replaced the regulator after navigating through the V11lemans Tutorial Committee's advice and my bike is on the road and only needed human power for propulsion once since, a few days ago, when I ran it out of fuel. It has trained me well in the art pushing it around. I'm beginning to believe it learned a few tricks in an S & M dungeon and I'm its rube. I discovered a fried black wire in the harness under the seat a while back and appealed to the collective wisdom implicit here and ran a more robust wire from the regulator to ground. The electrical system seemed good enough to earn a grade of D, graded on a curve, in a class filled with Moto Guzzi addicts; until the regulator quit, was replaced and here I am still crying into my beer to anyone who'll listen. But it runs, only if I give it a drink of gasoline, but it is running. Almost overwhelming, the well written detail in your post. I do have a battery drain, it would be nice if I could vanquish it. I will cajole a friend who's education exceeds my kindergarten diploma in electrical/electronic summer camp to read over my shoulder and parse what you're recommending. He'll sketch a few illustrations in cartoon form and I'll get it. Thank you.
  8. I'm pretty sure the regulator was last bolted onto this bike in late 1999 in Mandello del Lario. The grinding pain of an undiagnosed, crippling malady festers; so if the price of exiting an exotic, cryptic failure is the cost of a voltage regulator, I will praise that outcome. Maybe it don't fix it, but the fact that I was able to get to here so quickly was because you guys kept coming back with helpful suggestions; and quickly. In the sweltering heat of last Monday night, I was pushing my Chernobyl radiator of motorcycle through the city, back to my garage after it sputtered. I got schooled on Tuesday, Wednesday and today I didn't buy a stator I don't need and somebody in California is putting a box in a box and sending me a voltage regulator. A huge triangle from which to clink glasses and cheers from; but y'all know why. And yeah, I sipped at the trough of too many electrical calamities, tales of woe published on these pages the last few days, and also think that there's an account of someone's new regulator curing their battery drain malady. I'm sometimes in bed at night thinking about the battery blood-sucking going on in yonder garage. it's not calming. Hyar. Hope is by reputation, a balm. I will let you know.
  9. I did visually inspect all the fuses at the onset. All seem to be in order. No sign of any burning etc. Checked the 30amper for continuity and all good. I ordered a new regulator.
  10. The counter guy at the electrical repair shop here in New Haven has no idea the bullet he dodged in not having to endure my babbling incoherence. You guys cannon fodder instead. His gain, your loss.
  11. Help more? You guys have been great and patient and thorough in walking me through this. I can't thank enough. The bike has a one year old battery and since there is a battery drain with the key out of the ignition (I ran some better grounds, all the connections at the battery have been cleaned up. I thought I had it licked, but it is still present.) I keep it on a tender. I will order the regulator from ElectroSport that docc linked to. The website says they have them in stock, so I'll roll off this post and order one before the giant truck backs up to their loading dock to fulfill the giant order from Tennessee. Rumor is that there's a hoarder sitting on heaps of them down there. cheers, Marcus
  12. Hi, kids. They booted me from nursery school early, so I'm back with chapter . . . I haven't kept track, but it's nearing War and Peace level page count. I did as was suggested and checked output with yellow alternator wires isolated from the wiring harness of the bike. 18v AC at idle 45v AC at 3,000rpm 65-ish at higher rpm, prlly about 5,000, I hate spinning a motor at rest high, don't know why. This seems to comport with what is specced for it and indicates the alternator is functional? Would this point to the regulator?
  13. My apologies for wasting the people's time with my confused understandings. As has been suggested, my friend re-tested the output this morning. (he has a decent meter) DC measured at the battery, with the engine running 12.4v regardless of RPM. AC measured from the yellow wires off the alternator, upstream from regulator: 16.3v AC at idle drops to 13.2v AC at 3,000 rpm. The measurements at the battery might suggest a problem with the rectifier, is that correct? The output from the alternator should not drop as rpms increase, also correct? I am going to trek to the electrical shop, but I wondered what you guys might construe from this.
  14. I saw that on the link you provided. It's oddly beautiful, I'd feel bad burying this object inside the little alternator house. I'll print that out and show it to the local guy, sure he's seen a lot of hardware in his day, I'm thinking this one will melt his jaded heart.
  15. Yes, Weegie, def volts were measured, not amps as I earlier stated. As far as I can tell, the yellow connections on the stator are intact, certainly not obviously detached. I spoke with a local shop that rebuilds alternators and took some pix of the unit to show to him, I'm a little confused as to what is possible as regards rebuilding, I think he said he would only need the stator. This will doubtless be contradicted tomorrow and I will be back here tomorrow bellyaching like I do. I looked at the ElectroSport stator that docc linked; which is out of stock since the last one they had is now likely residing in Tennessee.
  16. Yeah, Weegie, I measured the alternator output on the two yellow wires coming off the alternator heading to the regulator. I pried the connection apart just enough to get the probes in. And I spun it at 3,000 rpm. I'm sketchy on the electrical nomenclature, but pretty sure we were measuring amps, as that was what we measured at the battery; engine off/engine idle/@ 3,000 rpm. My friend measured it for me, I'll double check with him on what we measured. Hopefully a severed wire as DOCC suggested might be the cause.
  17. Thank you. I'll go out and scrutinize it. The reading on the meter did change slightly when the I increased idle. I don't know if that was an anomalous fluctuation. Since I'm an obsessive doom-scroller, my manual calls for removal of the alternator after removing the engine. It sure looks like it would clear; the problem is holding the crankshaft from spinning when loosening, 'special tool 12 9118 01'. Is it possible to do this with the engine in the frame?
  18. 2000 V11 Sport. It is referred to as both in my manual, not sure which it is, but whatever it is, it don't appear to be charging. Was riding it home the other night and it sputtered, died and the starter would not spin. Charged the battery and it runs as it should. Put a meter on the battery with the bike at idle, roughly 12.4v, (which is what it reads when it is not running) increased idle and it did not change. Put a meter on the two yellow wires that output from the alternator. At idle it registered +/-3.5, 4.5 at about 3000rpm. The dashboard alternator indicator does not light (goes out after startup.) 30Amp fuse is intact and seems fine, all the electrical accessories operate (horn, hi/lo, signals etc) Is this something that can be rebuilt? Replaced?
  19. Purloined


    Beautifully done. A very nice incorporation of OEM parts/shapes and a paring down/excising and addition of under-designed elements that are confidently at home on the bike. thumbs-up to the fabricators and designer(s).
  20. Off-road-use-only cylinder-exhaust; 'see-through pipes', sound about as perfect as I could imagine. Sound engineers are artists too. Mikko: Looking good. What I want. And yeah, that's got to be a bellicose pipe in your pic. Loud? Nice.
  21. docc, I'm on the periphery of making things up when it comes to infrastructure to dive into moto mechanics. I've done a lot beneath cars in driveways hoping the ad hoc scene doesn't bite down too hard while it went on. Getting that deep into the motorcycle would require a lot of ingenuity. What you and Scud describe and illustrate doesn't seem daunting. Riding around Connecticut is a gobsmacking gauntlet of crazed idiots piloting enormous SUVs who dane to snear and look up from their texts when my bleating horn interrupts. . . . They're streaking down I-95. I've done a lot of riding over decades. Early, stupid things moved on from are almost perilous to me when I think back on them. But to this day, I streak down roads where I'm at ease. I rode a 1980 le Mans 10,000 miles cross country. I loved that trip and I loved that bike and it was ridiculously unsuitable. Decades since it got sold. My 2000 green moto was a shaky introduction to something I expected would be familiar but wasn't. A little heart-stopping when I first got on it. I've unbolted a lot of stuff, changed some things, sanded off the two-toned paint someone added and it's the red stilettos I now think should get painted. But I've read too many accounts of drive-train failures; one if I recall recounted by docc (highway underpass?) and the tumult astride the Connecticut Turnpike + drivetrain failure imagines = four doom stars and maybe I won't put it back together correctly, exactly. Thanks to everyone for suggestions and advice, if there's a step 7, there will be invitations. I love looking at posts of different bikes from everywhere. It's not a simple share on this site, here's a link to a google drive/images: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1We-Py_P2cP7dQQsWSCIh_f2MAe7hK-EX?usp=sharing
  22. Docc, The images you posted are edifying. Things you think might be simple prove otherwise. A big help in understanding the arcane intricacies of the bike.
  23. Step 7? That's adorable. We're skipping past to 9 or 10, the Irish Wake. Whiskey not beer. Celebratory? Plausible if putting someone out of their misery is an excuse for a party. You all can raise a glass in the aftermath of nonsense. Times are tough; baby steps will get us through and I'm an enthusiastic supporter.
  24. Emmylou is consoler-in-chief to multitudes. And for decades. She's not taken me up on invitations to hand-hold while I blunder through moto mechanical follies. I can't blame her for that and wouldn't ever. She does her thing. I hone my circus of the ridiculous. You have to pay to see her perform, here it's free. For good reason. Docc, I was scrutinizing your image, the hub safety washer is an issue if you're removing the drive shaft/swing arm? Not an issue if it is possible to unfasten the plates one at a time and leave the drive train intact?
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