Purloined

Hi, kids. They booted me from nursery school early, so I'm back with chapter . . . I haven't kept track, but it's nearing War and Peace level page count. I did as was suggested and checked output with yellow alternator wires isolated from the wiring harness of the bike. 18v AC at idle 45v AC at 3,000rpm 65-ish at higher rpm, prlly about 5,000, I hate spinning a motor at rest high, don't know why. This seems to comport with what is specced for it and indicates the alternator is functional? Would this point to the regulator?

Immensely helpful. Thank you.

My apologies for wasting the people's time with my confused understandings. As has been suggested, my friend re-tested the output this morning. (he has a decent meter) DC measured at the battery, with the engine running 12.4v regardless of RPM. AC measured from the yellow wires off the alternator, upstream from regulator: 16.3v AC at idle drops to 13.2v AC at 3,000 rpm. The measurements at the battery might suggest a problem with the rectifier, is that correct? The output from the alternator should not drop as rpms increase, also correct? I am going to trek to the electrical shop, but I wondered what you guys might construe from this.

I saw that on the link you provided. It's oddly beautiful, I'd feel bad burying this object inside the little alternator house. I'll print that out and show it to the local guy, sure he's seen a lot of hardware in his day, I'm thinking this one will melt his jaded heart.

Yes, Weegie, def volts were measured, not amps as I earlier stated. As far as I can tell, the yellow connections on the stator are intact, certainly not obviously detached. I spoke with a local shop that rebuilds alternators and took some pix of the unit to show to him, I'm a little confused as to what is possible as regards rebuilding, I think he said he would only need the stator. This will doubtless be contradicted tomorrow and I will be back here tomorrow bellyaching like I do. I looked at the ElectroSport stator that docc linked; which is out of stock since the last one they had is now likely residing in Tennessee.

Yeah, Weegie, I measured the alternator output on the two yellow wires coming off the alternator heading to the regulator. I pried the connection apart just enough to get the probes in. And I spun it at 3,000 rpm. I'm sketchy on the electrical nomenclature, but pretty sure we were measuring amps, as that was what we measured at the battery; engine off/engine idle/@ 3,000 rpm. My friend measured it for me, I'll double check with him on what we measured. Hopefully a severed wire as DOCC suggested might be the cause.

Thank you. I'll go out and scrutinize it. The reading on the meter did change slightly when the I increased idle. I don't know if that was an anomalous fluctuation. Since I'm an obsessive doom-scroller, my manual calls for removal of the alternator after removing the engine. It sure looks like it would clear; the problem is holding the crankshaft from spinning when loosening, 'special tool 12 9118 01'. Is it possible to do this with the engine in the frame?

2000 V11 Sport. It is referred to as both in my manual, not sure which it is, but whatever it is, it don't appear to be charging. Was riding it home the other night and it sputtered, died and the starter would not spin. Charged the battery and it runs as it should. Put a meter on the battery with the bike at idle, roughly 12.4v, (which is what it reads when it is not running) increased idle and it did not change. Put a meter on the two yellow wires that output from the alternator. At idle it registered +/-3.5, 4.5 at about 3000rpm. The dashboard alternator indicator does not light (goes out after startup.) 30Amp fuse is intact and seems fine, all the electrical accessories operate (horn, hi/lo, signals etc) Is this something that can be rebuilt? Replaced?

Off-road-use-only cylinder-exhaust; 'see-through pipes', sound about as perfect as I could imagine. Sound engineers are artists too. Mikko: Looking good. What I want. And yeah, that's got to be a bellicose pipe in your pic. Loud? Nice.

docc, I'm on the periphery of making things up when it comes to infrastructure to dive into moto mechanics. I've done a lot beneath cars in driveways hoping the ad hoc scene doesn't bite down too hard while it went on. Getting that deep into the motorcycle would require a lot of ingenuity. What you and Scud describe and illustrate doesn't seem daunting. Riding around Connecticut is a gobsmacking gauntlet of crazed idiots piloting enormous SUVs who dane to snear and look up from their texts when my bleating horn interrupts. . . . They're streaking down I-95. I've done a lot of riding over decades. Early, stupid things moved on from are almost perilous to me when I think back on them. But to this day, I streak down roads where I'm at ease. I rode a 1980 le Mans 10,000 miles cross country. I loved that trip and I loved that bike and it was ridiculously unsuitable. Decades since it got sold. My 2000 green moto was a shaky introduction to something I expected would be familiar but wasn't. A little heart-stopping when I first got on it. I've unbolted a lot of stuff, changed some things, sanded off the two-toned paint someone added and it's the red stilettos I now think should get painted. But I've read too many accounts of drive-train failures; one if I recall recounted by docc (highway underpass?) and the tumult astride the Connecticut Turnpike + drivetrain failure imagines = four doom stars and maybe I won't put it back together correctly, exactly. Thanks to everyone for suggestions and advice, if there's a step 7, there will be invitations. I love looking at posts of different bikes from everywhere. It's not a simple share on this site, here's a link to a google drive/images: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1We-Py_P2cP7dQQsWSCIh_f2MAe7hK-EX?usp=sharing

Docc, The images you posted are edifying. Things you think might be simple prove otherwise. A big help in understanding the arcane intricacies of the bike.

Step 7? That's adorable. We're skipping past to 9 or 10, the Irish Wake. Whiskey not beer. Celebratory? Plausible if putting someone out of their misery is an excuse for a party. You all can raise a glass in the aftermath of nonsense. Times are tough; baby steps will get us through and I'm an enthusiastic supporter.

Emmylou is consoler-in-chief to multitudes. And for decades. She's not taken me up on invitations to hand-hold while I blunder through moto mechanical follies. I can't blame her for that and wouldn't ever. She does her thing. I hone my circus of the ridiculous. You have to pay to see her perform, here it's free. For good reason. Docc, I was scrutinizing your image, the hub safety washer is an issue if you're removing the drive shaft/swing arm? Not an issue if it is possible to unfasten the plates one at a time and leave the drive train intact?

Docc, gstallons suggested one at side at a time. Any chance this is possible without removing the swingarm et al? I put in a search for membership in a cult of deluded dopes. Lots of hits so far, I'm sifting through the multitudes and I appear to be a good fit based on what I'm reading. +you forgot to remove the guitar player/singer (Emmylou Harris?) from the your final drive. Was that a problem? Did she interfere? Maybe she interrupted her song to bark suggestions, she's doubtless hip about a lot and would be helpful in countless situations.

Posting pix is a walk in the park compared to what you've illustrated. Yes. I wanted to re-spray them. And the bruises on my head are feeling pretty mild compared to the aftermath of that exercise. I think I'll retreat to my closet and chew my nails down a little farther and convince myself that the red is not as bad as I convinced myself.

I didn't get quite that far in examining the ins/outs of the fasteners. I didn't know if it was possible to remove the plate without completely disassembling the bike; remove motor/etc. Didn't know if it would collapse into a heap if this was done.

Why is it so maddening to upload images on this site? Gawd, head is sore from banging it against the wall. The only way it was possible, after countless attempts was a PDF conversion, but it doesn't display in the post, which is not helpful.

Is it possible to remove/reinstall the red frame gusset (both sides) that the swing arm pivot and driver foot peg/brake lever etc. attaches to without disassembling heaps of parts? Assume you'd have to independently support everything that is fastened to/by this plate while it is off. Can this be done without collapsing the bike? Thanks in advance. V11 I95 fuel 189.pdf

This:

'wrong' and 'intriguingly sweet': a philosophical alliteration that gets a good smile up in here. A deft and sharp snark kicking of the ass of my foppish design and linguistics in one blow. kudos. Me like.

204.8kb conflates to 408.2. Or some other iteration of a dyslexic jumble . My apologies to the bandwidth overlords, it's just that the last bit and re-sizing felt Sisyphean. And in fact was. Okay. I give up on the file upload. Tiny and under the limit and still it caterwauls.

Strange things had been done to this 2000 V11 by the original owner and dealer in agreement in 2000. Apparently due to defects in the paint from the factory (I could see them beneath the paint once I stripped it.) I bought it two and a half years ago with its whack grey paint on the front fender, two-tone on the tank and seat frame. And pin-stripes. All of which I hated. Offense and atrocity coalesced and I finally, brutally, sanded it off with the intention of eventually repainting it another color altogether. The paint chemistry was a formula that Satan derived and the tank had had two applications after the first grey had problems and was very thick and tenacious. I managed to get enough of it off that it had a faint resemblance to the machinations of its Italian fabricators. I decided the archeological excavation pleased and it should remain as is for the time being; the various layers a historic testimonial, if anyone paused long enough to look. I wasn't able to preserve the front fender paint, so I rattle-can sprayed it with an Audi wheel color finish/clear coat. I sprayed the headlight shell with an aluminum paint. I won't belabor my disinterest in the Moto Guzzi eagle or the typeface of the tank graphics, so new biz. No offense to anyone here. . . . And the tail section had been hacked up (with a hack saw), the turn signals replaced by bad LED replacements, all contributing to a disrespectful lack of deference. I sourced a Hella LED truck light (Awesomely bright against the backdrop of the traffic bedlam in this part of the northeast) and amber LED lights sold by Revival in Austin Texas to use as turn signals front and rear.. I designed aluminum subassemblies that attach to the original bracket that fastens the tail/fender and stalks using the original front turn signal mounting points on the headlight ears. I've been trying to unbolt/unplug, as much off this bike as I've deem superfluous (I long ago removed the side covers and am determined to remove the airbox assembly, but I know it will require engine management acumen which will bruise my puny brain). So a couple of other details are in the crosshairs of my guillotine, but budgets are a bitching boot that kick when you want them to dance with you. We'll see. Politics and Covid and my ailing father and a general distemper for the nihilistic dysfunction I believe we're in the throes of is a mighty motivator for my pathology and Moto Guzzi irreverence. Good folk may grimace as a result, or avert their eyes, but the rings of this circus grow by the day. I've now lost count. Peace to you all. Budget a bitch? how about file size? 400kb the last time I looked, now smaller? I'll need some time for growling. Meanwhile a link while I figure out if I can post the dust-spec sized pix I modified to post here. Grateful the site exists and is free and full with the spirit of all that use it, but may I be allowed to wail over the digital self-flagellation? No? Okay. I'll stifle and cry into my fowdy ounce, which is almost empty anyway. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1We-Py_P2cP7dQQsWSCIh_f2MAe7hK-EX?usp=sharing

Thanks, Weegie, very helpful. The assembly was previously ty-wrapped behind the headlight bucket. With a jumper, I think I can incorporate everything inside the headlight shell, there's plenty of space. The blinkers are operational for brief periods, so I don't think too much heat and the LED headlight bulb does not give off much. I did replace the flasher relay with an electronic unit a when I first got the bike which solved the rapid flash problem. Don't know if the addition of the resistors by the PO was to curtail the 4-way flash affliction, but they were obviously okay with the rapid flashing which rendered them ineffectual. I appreciate your time and patience in responding.