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Kuni0

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    03 Moto Guzzi V11 Le Mans "Rosso" Corsa, 07 ST1300P, 89 Hawk GT, 13 Stelvio, WR250X Super'tard'

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  1. All the anti-rattle springs are damaged, but one in particular was making a more obvious break for freedom giving me some nice scoring on my transmission. But other than that, there doesn't seem to be anything permanently damaged beyond superficial scrapes
  2. After accomplishing about 3 solid days of work over the course of a month, I was finally able to get the motor and transmission free. It wasn't easy, but surprisingly not super difficult either all things considered. I swear checking the valves on my 98 VFR800 or doing any work on my Futura was more difficult
  3. Started digging around the bellhousing a bit, rotating it as I moved along, and lo and behold, what do I manage to fish out!!! I suppose this now answers why the clutch wasn't disengaging
  4. Doing so greatly improved the tightness of the lever, decreasing it to ~0.5cm of freeplay. However, it unfortunately wasn't able to get the clutch disengaged in any gear (though it did make it much easier to rotate the rear wheel). In rotating the wheel with the clutch engaged, there was a very obvious scrapping sound and dragging feeling when moving the wheel. I took of the starter motor fearing the worst, but it doesn't seem there is a catastrophic failure inside the bellhousing at the moment. Though I havent had a new seal kit/ master cylinder, I think this might be pointing down to the failed clutch path at the moment...
  5. Was able to get out the grub nut without issue, and I adjusted the plunger as far out as it would go. On a side not, it seems the issue of the master cylinder not being properly sealed is coming from where the plunder engages, since when I took it out for adjustment, it seems to have been covered in brake fluid
  6. Taking Pete's advice, I checked the play in the lever, and seeing that it was ~1.5cm of freeplay until the clutch started to engage, I decided to adjust the plunger hoping that would fix my issue
  7. So this is what the clutch fluid looked like at the start. Went through and bled the entire system until it was finally clear, but still didn't help the clutch disengage
  8. 2013 Stelvio NTX with about 48k miles. Picked it up from the original owner with less than 7k. No clutch work other than bleeding the master cylinder, which obviously needs a rebuild kit given the state of the fluid. And thanks Pete! No rush and enjoy your vacation
  9. Thought I'd pose this question to the group here and get some opinions and feedback. Hoped on the Stelvio to head into work today, and not half a mile down the road I realize pulling in the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the bike is still creeping forward with it fully pulled in. It's at this time I notice that shifting suddenly became a lot more difficult as well. I was able to creep it back without issue and hop on another bike. I've experienced this exact issue once, on my V11 when the clutch plates were done. I opened the clutch master cylinder to inspect the fluid and saw that it was all black and started attempting to bleed it before realizing I should just get a brake bleeding kit to make it easier. I've had the issue in the past, but it hasn't prevented me from disengaging the clutch. I'll attempt to properly bleed the system, but I'm not that hopeful. Is there anything I should look into and troubleshoot before assuming the worst? Or should I add clutch plates my checkout and start dismantling the Stelvio?
  10. I've recently had this thought, and don't know if I'm mad or if there's any baseline to it. For a while I've been thinking about getting some cast wheels from AF1 and mounting them on my Stelvio. I'm a road going rider, and I don't need the extra strength (or weight) of the spoke wheels, and I'm always dealing with a few psi lost on the rear every few days. The idea of having wheels that don't leak air and have better handling is tempting. But in looking around a few pictures and ebay listings, I realized the Norge seems to have a similar 4 bolt wheel design for the rear and it got me thinking if I could swap both wheels on my Stelvio? I know there would need to be some suspension re-adjustment going to 17'' but I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible?
  11. I think the transverse layout still makes sense today. Makes it easy to service (ie. check the valves) and you don't have the centrifugal force from the crank interfering with you handling. After being in the clutch on my V11 more times than I care, I hope the move the clutch forward for this, though it's not a deal breaker. It looks promising, and exactly the kind of bike I like (sport tourers). I really hope they make a truly modern platform, and not just a watercooled version of their small-block as Pete said.
  12. I got over 13k miles from a Road 5 rear on my Le Mans, and I've consistently had over 9k miles on my heavier bikes (Stelvio, ST1300) with road 5's. I run ~42 psi on the rear, but I've rarely had issues with traction.
  13. I ended up buying a used V11 crank and rods on ebay and getting that swapped in. Still have the original crank. I can probably get it straightened, but I want to hold onto it as a backup
  14. After a lot of blood, sweat, beer, forum browsing, and troubleshooting, I've got her on the road again. Had to pull the motor because of a bent crankshaft due to my dumbass not torqueing down the stator nut. Gave it to a friend who's a master engine builder, and she gave me a damned good motor in exchange for some $$ (highly recommend Mototown in Marinna, Ca if you're close). While it was apart, I worked on the transmission (filed the shift selector, new spring thanks to Scud, straightened the shift lever that was banana shaped after an accident, addressed a gear oil leak from a sloppy permatex job). Downshifts are still not 100%, but it's much improved than what it was before. Chased some oil leak issues from the back, but it was thankfully determined to be the bell-housing/breather hose because I stupidly didn't clamp it down. Traced some charging issues back to wires connecting on the positive terminal not being fully connected; discovered both in the comfort of my garage, and on 101N in the left lane. Some quick side-of-the road splicing got me down the road. She's not 100% yet. I don't actually how how well she's charging because I discovered the ground leads on my cheap hazard fraught multimeter have almost come off. Had some 'hiccups' that was causing the idle to drop and stall. Turned up the idle as a bodge fix so she won't stall out at stops, but the hiccups are still there, leading me to think there's a hole in the intake boots. But I was able to go for a proper ride up in the Oakland/ Berkeley hills today. I've missed her dearly. It's good to have her back
  15. Doesn't look to be a Le Mans, but there might still be some life in Mandello de Lario. https://www.visordown.com/news/new-bikes/moto-guzzi-teases-new-centenary-edition-motorcycle
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