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Kuni0

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Everything posted by Kuni0

  1. All the anti-rattle springs are damaged, but one in particular was making a more obvious break for freedom giving me some nice scoring on my transmission. But other than that, there doesn't seem to be anything permanently damaged beyond superficial scrapes
  2. After accomplishing about 3 solid days of work over the course of a month, I was finally able to get the motor and transmission free. It wasn't easy, but surprisingly not super difficult either all things considered. I swear checking the valves on my 98 VFR800 or doing any work on my Futura was more difficult
  3. Started digging around the bellhousing a bit, rotating it as I moved along, and lo and behold, what do I manage to fish out!!! I suppose this now answers why the clutch wasn't disengaging
  4. Doing so greatly improved the tightness of the lever, decreasing it to ~0.5cm of freeplay. However, it unfortunately wasn't able to get the clutch disengaged in any gear (though it did make it much easier to rotate the rear wheel). In rotating the wheel with the clutch engaged, there was a very obvious scrapping sound and dragging feeling when moving the wheel. I took of the starter motor fearing the worst, but it doesn't seem there is a catastrophic failure inside the bellhousing at the moment. Though I havent had a new seal kit/ master cylinder, I think this might be pointing down to the failed clutch path at the moment...
  5. Was able to get out the grub nut without issue, and I adjusted the plunger as far out as it would go. On a side not, it seems the issue of the master cylinder not being properly sealed is coming from where the plunder engages, since when I took it out for adjustment, it seems to have been covered in brake fluid
  6. Taking Pete's advice, I checked the play in the lever, and seeing that it was ~1.5cm of freeplay until the clutch started to engage, I decided to adjust the plunger hoping that would fix my issue
  7. So this is what the clutch fluid looked like at the start. Went through and bled the entire system until it was finally clear, but still didn't help the clutch disengage
  8. 2013 Stelvio NTX with about 48k miles. Picked it up from the original owner with less than 7k. No clutch work other than bleeding the master cylinder, which obviously needs a rebuild kit given the state of the fluid. And thanks Pete! No rush and enjoy your vacation
  9. Thought I'd pose this question to the group here and get some opinions and feedback. Hoped on the Stelvio to head into work today, and not half a mile down the road I realize pulling in the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the bike is still creeping forward with it fully pulled in. It's at this time I notice that shifting suddenly became a lot more difficult as well. I was able to creep it back without issue and hop on another bike. I've experienced this exact issue once, on my V11 when the clutch plates were done. I opened the clutch master cylinder to inspect the fluid and saw that it was all black and started attempting to bleed it before realizing I should just get a brake bleeding kit to make it easier. I've had the issue in the past, but it hasn't prevented me from disengaging the clutch. I'll attempt to properly bleed the system, but I'm not that hopeful. Is there anything I should look into and troubleshoot before assuming the worst? Or should I add clutch plates my checkout and start dismantling the Stelvio?
  10. I've recently had this thought, and don't know if I'm mad or if there's any baseline to it. For a while I've been thinking about getting some cast wheels from AF1 and mounting them on my Stelvio. I'm a road going rider, and I don't need the extra strength (or weight) of the spoke wheels, and I'm always dealing with a few psi lost on the rear every few days. The idea of having wheels that don't leak air and have better handling is tempting. But in looking around a few pictures and ebay listings, I realized the Norge seems to have a similar 4 bolt wheel design for the rear and it got me thinking if I could swap both wheels on my Stelvio? I know there would need to be some suspension re-adjustment going to 17'' but I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible?
  11. I think the transverse layout still makes sense today. Makes it easy to service (ie. check the valves) and you don't have the centrifugal force from the crank interfering with you handling. After being in the clutch on my V11 more times than I care, I hope the move the clutch forward for this, though it's not a deal breaker. It looks promising, and exactly the kind of bike I like (sport tourers). I really hope they make a truly modern platform, and not just a watercooled version of their small-block as Pete said.
  12. I got over 13k miles from a Road 5 rear on my Le Mans, and I've consistently had over 9k miles on my heavier bikes (Stelvio, ST1300) with road 5's. I run ~42 psi on the rear, but I've rarely had issues with traction.
  13. I ended up buying a used V11 crank and rods on ebay and getting that swapped in. Still have the original crank. I can probably get it straightened, but I want to hold onto it as a backup
  14. After a lot of blood, sweat, beer, forum browsing, and troubleshooting, I've got her on the road again. Had to pull the motor because of a bent crankshaft due to my dumbass not torqueing down the stator nut. Gave it to a friend who's a master engine builder, and she gave me a damned good motor in exchange for some $$ (highly recommend Mototown in Marinna, Ca if you're close). While it was apart, I worked on the transmission (filed the shift selector, new spring thanks to Scud, straightened the shift lever that was banana shaped after an accident, addressed a gear oil leak from a sloppy permatex job). Downshifts are still not 100%, but it's much improved than what it was before. Chased some oil leak issues from the back, but it was thankfully determined to be the bell-housing/breather hose because I stupidly didn't clamp it down. Traced some charging issues back to wires connecting on the positive terminal not being fully connected; discovered both in the comfort of my garage, and on 101N in the left lane. Some quick side-of-the road splicing got me down the road. She's not 100% yet. I don't actually how how well she's charging because I discovered the ground leads on my cheap hazard fraught multimeter have almost come off. Had some 'hiccups' that was causing the idle to drop and stall. Turned up the idle as a bodge fix so she won't stall out at stops, but the hiccups are still there, leading me to think there's a hole in the intake boots. But I was able to go for a proper ride up in the Oakland/ Berkeley hills today. I've missed her dearly. It's good to have her back
  15. Doesn't look to be a Le Mans, but there might still be some life in Mandello de Lario. https://www.visordown.com/news/new-bikes/moto-guzzi-teases-new-centenary-edition-motorcycle
  16. docc, I did check the input hub, and it seems to have not loosed at all. Lucky Phil, I have SD-TEC plates in it, and one of the issues I had was I put the friction plates in backwards, so the clutch wasn't engaging at all.
  17. Tinus89, you were right on the money! I took apart everything down to the springs, re-seated them and put it all together. With the clutch pulled in, I was able to rotate the shaft while the bike was in gear! I've since re-assembled everything and the bike is running now! Hopefully this'll be the last time in a while where I have to pull everything to get at the clutch.
  18. I know this topic has probably already been covered, but I figure it still can't hurt to ask again. I'm currently having issues with the clutch not disengaging. I originally pulled it apart because the flywheel bolts weren't torqued down correctly, and now that everything is assembled, I put into first gear, and the bike lurches forward and dies. Sure enough, I put it into first gear, pull in the clutch, rock it, and it doesn't move. BUT, the clutch assembly seems to be fine! All 10 springs are there, the button for the pressure plate was still on, the clutch plates are in correctly, and the pushrod seems to be moving forward just fine! When I pull in the clutch, it feels normal and I can hear it moving the pressure plate. The only thing I can think of is the transmission at this point. When I pulled the clutch, I took off the transmission side plate to put silicon gasket sealer around it and stop a gear-oil drip I had. I remember it was a pain putting the side cover back on because gears/ bits (sorry, don't know the technical term) had moved around inside the transmission, and I moved them again to get the side cover on. Is it possible it's now the transmission that's not letting be disengage the clutch? Or is it something completely different? Thank you for all your help
  19. Kuni0

    Staintune cans

    I have staintunes from a Guzzi Daytona on my V11. Same mounting points, and slipped on just fine. The best looking and sounding exhausts IMO
  20. Didn't exactly use the right tools all the time, but you use what you got
  21. Picture of the Le Mans as she is now
  22. Thanks ScuRoo for the message, thought it would be nice to give an update from my project Everything is back together, and the bike (seems) to be running great. It turns out it was the pushrod button that had fallen out causing me to not have a clutch. As I mentioned in my post, the heads seem to have been ported in a previous life so I didn't need to do that. All of the modifications and work that's been done to my Le Mans are: Megacycle 620x9 cam, Roper plate, cleaned the carbon buildup on the pistons/ head and valves (and re-lapped them), ported heads (don't know who though), new rings and gaskets, K&N pods, Mistral headers and crossover, and Staintune exhausts from a Guzzi Daytona. I kept the original valves, springs and pushrods, though I would like to find some chrome-moly pushrods at some point. The ECU is stock to my knowledge. It did have a dyno-jet, but I took it off as the engine fumbled between 1.5-3.5k RPM, though I may but it back on and play around at some point. My goal from the beginning was to give the motor a refresh and add a little more power without sacrificing reliability. I seem to have done that; it pulls harder and faster then before and is intoxicating to accelerate out of a corner. I haven't had it on a dyno, don't know who (if anyone) in the Bay area has a motorcycle dyno. I've only put about 1000 miles on since the rebuild so long term reliability will remain to be seen, though I think issues might be due to my own meddling rather then something wrong with the parts/ modifications. I'm very glad it's so easy to work on the Guzzi! For the most part, a decent mechanics tool set can get most of the bike apart, and parts (including the specialty tools) are surprisingly available online. I would just add, make sure ALL bolts are properly tightened! I've run into so many issues with loose/ loosing bolts because I was so exited to have the bike running again.
  23. Update to this old thread. My Rosso Corsa is almost all together now. Engine wise, i went with a megacycle 620x9 camshaft, installed a roper plate, and simply cleaned the piston and cylinder heads and valves (as well as lapping them). Upon inspection of the intake, it seems that someone had done some porting and polishing in a previous life. I've put everything together now basically after much trial and error. Ran into a few issues (stator wires broke apart so I re-soldered it together) and general difficulties of getting the bike together by yourself, but finally it started yesterday! After chasing down an issue that turned out to be a loose ground wire behind the transmission, she started right up! God I miss that sound! But.... now the clutch doesn't seem to "engage". The clutch lever has no pressure to it, and it doesn't sound like it's engaging at all when the bike is on. The master cylinder was disconnected from the clutch line while I was working on it, but I've bled the entire line through and still no pressure. From what I've read, it seems possible the the clutch pushrod is actually fully engaged and that's why the lever has no pressure to it. Any thoughts or ideas to try? I'd really like to not drop the motor again if possible to remedy this. I was thinking about opening up the transmission side case (have to anyway) and seeing if I can move the pushrod from there or not. One of the three screws on the slave cylinder is horribly stripped, so taking that off would be a big PITA. Any thoughts are appreciated!
  24. Kuni0

    Riding gear

    I've got a full Motoport riding suit, Daytona security boots with Sidi adventure boots as backup, Helimot racer gloves and either a Shoei or Shark full face lid. I was hit by cars 3 times last year (1. Car jumped a red and hit me dead while I was making a protected left turn. 2. Car switched lanes into me and bumped me, resulting in serious lowside 3. Tesla pulled a left when she shouldn't have and I t-bones into her passenger door and few over her car) and crash nearly tested all my pieces of gear. Besides having my leg broken from the first crash (I was wearing old TXC boots that had worn out at that point) I somehow had no major injuries from the others.
  25. Kuni0

    Kuni0

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