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Everything posted by po18guy

  1. po18guy

    Quat D UK

    There must be a + and - terminal on the Quat D, as they seem to be very polarizing.
  2. Whatever restores the good vibes.
  3. I have seen some slit red fuel line and use it like you did. But I think it is vinyl tubing, rather than rubber.
  4. po18guy

    Quat D UK

    Less work than cleaning and polishing headers. Knowing the properties of stainless, I suspect that more than a few are shocked by corrosion pinholes in their formerly wrapped headers. Ooops.
  5. po18guy

    Quat D UK

    It looks like something that was intended to be covered by a lower fairing.
  6. When headlight aim is off , it calls for (Ahem!) manual adjustment.
  7. Removing the battery entirely takes what, 1.5% off the weight? Yeah, but the high beams still work.
  8. The fairing opening is awfully close to the diameter of the headlight ring and the slightest contact will transmit seemingly all of the vibes. Something on the order of neoprene or closed cell foam helps, but is often visible from the front. There is a thin foam tape used for medical purposes (pharmacy/chemist/druggist) that might be run around the top of the headlight ring and trimmed so that it is not poking out like a bandage - but a band aid is what we are applying in any event.
  9. Some Ballabio tips: There are/were/supposed to be thin rubber washers between the aluminum mount and the fairing. To preserve the fairing paint, some washers between the headlight mount bolts and the fairing are a good idea. Hardware store stuff. Also, thin rubber washers that will fit between headlight shell and fairing mount will help keep the headlight adjustment where you put it. Make sure the upper fairing mount is tight both at its lower end on the fairing stay, as well as at the windshield bolts. Some small thin rubber washers between the upper mount and the fairing/windshield bolts will help there, as well. For that matter, thin rubber washers (or a perimeter rubber strip made from a bicycle inner tube) between the windshield and the fairing will also quell some of the shakes. Speaking of the shakes... When you are dealing with a bike that has more shakes than Joe Walsh on a bender, you have to take some steps.
  10. HTmoto in Germany made a few. The owner retired and sold the tooling to: www.seby-poly.de This example is a short frame, so none of the pump-in-tank issues with tooling for the tank.
  11. As to starting, I found that platinum plugs made about a 50% improvement in cranking time. As well, I am sorely tempted by these HQ battery cables. The only issue I had with them was resolved via an email. https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html
  12. Do you need something better than NGK Racing wires? Cheap. Effective. Available.
  13. If you want really excellent, no excuses good stuff, (I haven't checked ARP), RaceBoltUK has absolutely top shelf stuff in SS, Ti and even alloy for less stressed tasks. You can choose your head style and drilled for safety wire, etc. Last order it was one week - seven days - from mouse click to doorbell here on the west coast of the US. Incredible. And the lucky blokes in the UK get it sent for free. https://raceboltuk.com/
  14. Good job on a purpose-built tool. +1 Big ol' pipe from the opposite side would not drive it out? Or, is it a blind hole? Fortunately, have not had to tear the project down that far... yet.
  15. Was sorely tempted by a nice red '04 Ballabio tail unit on eBay - but someone else snagged it first. Mine is identical to this one, but with red tank and fairing. Oh, those artistic, pragmatic (wacky) Italians! "Heya Carlo, whatsa color dat taila piece we hava left to put ona dis red Ballaaaabio? Blue? Atsa all right. Goa get it denn."
  16. D'oh! Really hard to get that tube in their for an electrolyte draw! Load test is the only way. The lesson seems to be: do not disconnect the battery unless you want to 1) replace the battery, 2) replace/rebuild the starter, 3) replace or disconnect, clean and re-tighten all cable terminals, or 4) all of the above. Let sleeping Guzzis lie?
  17. Battery. Do a specific gravity test. Betcha' its a goner.
  18. po18guy


    If one were to title this pic, it might be simply... "This is why"
  19. "Torque-to-yield" huh? I note here that Chinese 8.8 is often not "rest-of-the-world" grade 8.8 That bolt head looks rather industrial. As to snapped off bolt heads, once the torque is relieved, the shank will normally twist back out. Getting a purchase on it is the deal. A smaller bolt shank, even a wood dowel, some epoxy on the end, a little cure time and out they come. If they don't then the case threads are dirty (shame!), or were also about to let go. Found out back in the 70s at a garage where I worked when torquing a Cadillac rocker shaft bolt after replacing a head gasket. The threads were a good 8"-10" down the hole. It took a bit of patience and perseverance, but I got it back out.
  20. At $900 the pair, fixing dented Staintunes might very well be worth it.
  21. If you experiment a little, you can find a grit of sandpaper which will reproduce the factory "grain" in the alloy. Then, a judicious amount of "shoe shining" motion can render the repaired section even less visible.
  22. Actually, we have: 1. One hybrid vehicle - Lexus CT200h, 2. One low emission vehicle - Honda Element, and 3. One high emotion vehicle - V11.
  23. But a 937 Super Sport? Nice enough, but I'll take my V11 thank you very much. Speaking of the SS, I just looked up the 1977 900 Super Sport that a high school buddy bought brand new. I rode along with him on my TX650. Yeah, he was slumming. Lost contact and always wondered what he did with that SS. Googling up the '77 SS, I was rather shocked to see that mint examples go for $30-$50K? AYKM? Gotta look him up, and fast! https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-italian-motorcycles/classic-ducati-motorcycles/1977-ducati-900ss-zmwz16mjzhur
  24. I have a 1988 Civic base hatchback that I got for free. I tell you, the thrill of 68 HP pressing you back in the seat, and 4-on-the-floor is incredible!
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