po18guy

Q: Does anyone know the style, or have an example of the multi-pin connector from the left handlebar switches to the main wiring loom? '04 Ballabio, as I see that Guzzi used various multi-pin connector styles. Am going to get rid of my horn-button-where-the-signals-should-be left switch housing. Unfortunately, the switch harness disappears behind the "frame cover" under the tank, making the connector inaccessible unless I pull the tank. While I'll have the tank off sooner or later, I'd like to have the proper switches ready to go. Thanks in advance! Next, I forgot to tun notifications on. Can I do this after I post? Dimbulb me cannot figure it out.

Brother's high school friend had a Benelli 250. For a project, bro had fabbed up a copy of the Ducati "Corse" open megaphone in high school shop class. It really woke that Benelli (and our neighbors) up! Ah, but my brother's other friend went crazy and bought a 1965 Ducati Diana MK III. Now, with 5 speeds and 10K on tap, that was some ride for a goofy kid in the 60s. The most difficult mechanical project I ever helped with was getting all of those bevel gear timing marks lined up. They call those the 'ice cream cone' singles, but the cam drive was more like a Rubik's cube.

Yeah, my effort is only a backup. I could see most commercial spring makers wanting a 1,000 order or similar. wonder if Harper's or MG would have interest in stocking what we don't buy up? Not even the EU or UN could get Madello del Lario interested... OK... brace yourselves: "We looked at designs in 17-7 and also beta-c titanium. Using titanium will reduce the torque by about 40%. Here is what we came up with… STAINLESS 17-7 QTY 50 @ $65.00 each QTY 100@ $41.25 each QTY 150 @ $33.75 each QTY 200 @ $30.00 each +$1000 non-recurring charge for tooling Beta-C Titanium QTY 50 @ $85.00 each QTY 100@ $68.50 each QTY 150 @ $64.75 each QTY 200 @ $62.75 each +$1500 non-recurring charge for tooling Quoted lead time is 40 weeks from receipt of a purchase order.

Follow up email states that he's working on a quote. I told him possibly 100 springs. CRAP! How am I gonna pay for those!!!

Here is the reply I received: Thanks for the email. We don’t have minimums, but the price per part decreases as you quantities increase. It looks like the original is made from music wire. We’d probably look at using a 17-7 stainless material. Here are a few additional questions before we get started… Quantities? Where are the stock parts failing? FYI, we’re a high end spring manufacturer (primarily using exotic materials such as titanium, UPG10, and X3) so we’re not the cheapest out there. Also, our lead times are currently in the 36 week range. Best regards- Kyle KYLE CABAYA Motorsport Manager RENTON COIL SPRING CO. INC. LOCATION: 425 S. 7th St. | MAIL: PO Box 880 | Renton, WA 98057 P: 425.255.1453 x225 | F: 425.228.0780 | M: 425.922.4250 www.rentoncoilspring.com As to lead time, I guess they are busy helping Boeing fix those 737 Maxes that have been crashing...

The seller goes by Guzzidaveracing on eBay. I would be sorely tempted to buy a red powder coated pair with the GUZZI machined to natural. as on the small block example. Question is if the red is close enough the Tank so as to match. For other colors, it would not really matter. Would that make it a Guzzi "Testarossa"? That seems to be about the only name they didn't use!

Even the steering lock on the long frame models is quite limited - I noticed that the first few U-turns. Plastic tank, but it cannot be dimpled without destroying the paint, can it? OK, how about raise the fork tubes a bit, raise (or shim) the upper triple to match and see what happens? It has a steering damper, correct? The limiter is the amount of lower triple steerer tube that the upper triple clamps to. It's always something.

If you are just sick and tired of onlookers asking accusing you of riding a Honda CX500... The big blocks are cast. Lucky small block owners get machined from billet.

I wonder, too. The plug wires are routed up through the valve cover. The downside is that the owner can no longer show off the NGK racing bling wires.

Perfect! I attached the drawing to an email sent to the motorsports division manager at Renton Coil Spring. We shall see.

I am going to contact the local aerospace spring maker (they do motorsports) and see how many and how much. They are big on Ti,but will do any and all usual spring steels. I have an NOS Guzzi spring, but I understand that the improved spring has three coils rather than two, and a different diameter wire?

No kick start, so they can't use a capacitor. I'd say in the hump mostly, but all available room is considered. The lower the better, so under the trans is not a bad idea.

Once done, do you suppose you'll even dyno that thing? The torque curve would be more interesting to see than pure HP.

Is it a matter or moving them forward? Or perhaps forward and up a bit? Guzzi did one thing quite right when they mounted that regulator/rectifier/heat sink right up front. Many Japanese bikes have them hidden and, lacking air flow, they overheat and are nothing but trouble. I recently scoped out the same area on my bike. I was thinking of nice red Fiamm or Hella horns but alas, no room between rectifier and headers. Could probably move them forward and have space, but then they would look like a pair of, well, hooters.

IOW, a manly hammer!

And here I was beginning to doubt his mechanical prowess! Personally, I prefer the low-profile black w/blue handle DB hammer. A lot harder to find when my ADD acts up though.

Is this sudden onset, or has it been building? As Phil asked, compression and valve clearance would be first to check. After that, it does seem to be related to a lean condition. Dirty injectors? TBs synched?

Notice how she is flawless, except for a few flaws? To my eyes (recently restored), not much to dislike. The suspension alone is worth half the asking price and $4150 is clearly negotiable. Looks like a cheapo eBay ABS plastic integrated signal/running light unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-7-Motorcycle-Headlight-Amber-LED-Turn-Signal-Indicators-Bracket-US/174028145959?hash=item2884e2c527:g:EFcAAOSwlvtdeboZ

It seems that virtually all for sale have mods. Nothing new there. Q: How do you explain a 15+ year old unmodified Guzzi? Garage candy? Collector? Unknowing, uncaring owner? Impulse buy that subsequently sat unused? Probably all of the above and more. As to pricing, I paid the asking price of $4,950 for my '04 Ballabio, due to very low mileage, condition, mods and accessories included. For that price, one option I had in a new bike was a 300 Ninja. AYKM? Buying a Guzzi is akin to a marriage. Some guys love the old lump, warts and all, through thick and thin (docc? ), while others bail and look for something younger and faster. What I do know is that a Guzzi is the 'road less traveled', and that has always been my path.

Done

The pictured bike is basically a body kit for the Centauro. Yeah, it's got Ohlins, but being made from an existing line, upgraded components could be added while keeping the cost somewhat reasonable. And I know it's a matter of national pride, but why not let the Japanese do the electrics?

Post updated.

I have an equally bad back. In 2008, Son and I had to unload a 600 pound air compressor from a rental truck onto the concrete at my garage. The lift on the truck would only hold it lying down, so there was quite a bit of estimating and pondering, but we finally got it to do a controlled slide onto a pallet. We then crab-walked it in to the garage. No idea what we would have done had it a mind of its own. I suppose I would be posting on a wheelchair forum.

What's the ceiling look like? Do you have a chain hoist? A car engine "cherry picker" would be near ideal, but no help setting it in the frame.

OK. I dragged out my official V11 Workshop Manual. It is far less specific , um, organized than, say, Japanese manuals, which seem to specify the torque of everything in one section. It enumerates most torque values on one page - but then males you search section by section for the rest. The triple clamp values are followed by the standard toque figures for (apparently) non-critical bolts and nuts. Triple Clamp Torque Values: Lower Triple clamp bolts 25 Nm Upper Triple clamp bolts 25 Nm Standard Torque Values: Screws and nuts ø 4 3-3.5 Nm Screws and nuts ø 5x0,8 6-7 Nm Screws and nuts ø 6x1 8-12 Nm Screws and nuts ø 8x1,25 25-30 Nm Screws and nuts ø 10x1,5 45-50 Nm