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maxv11

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Posts posted by maxv11

  1. Well everyone, glad to report the V11 is back on the road and kicking ass! I got the new motor put in yesterday and wrapped up all the small things today. I installed a new Roper Plate (very sweet by the way @Pressureangle) highly recommended and a very easy install when the motor is out of the frame and flipped upside down :) I put roughly 30 miles on it today and nothing but smiles, had to stop and get some beauty shots. 

    A short backstory, this bike was wrecked and was pretty gnarly. I refinished the gas tank, made a new subframe, new headlight and control area. New bars, grips, bar end signals, new digital speedo among other things. Then the motor went, so bought a new/used one on eBay with 3000 miles, went through it and tossed it into the beast and here we are! 

    Now, my V11 may not be everyones taste which I totally get but wanted to turn it into a sweet rugged machine, something to match with the grunt of the motor. It is by no means a Scrambler but has a vibe as such, it's a pavement only bike but the knobby tires really handle well on the street. I can still carve the curves and hit the highway with no issues. 

    I don't ever ride in the rain so went with POD filters and no rear fender so no one complains about that...

    Anyways, got the bike back together and want to thank you all for the help with my questions and the wealth of info this forum contributes! 

    Pics posted below

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  2. 7 hours ago, po18guy said:

     

     

    IIRC, the seller had the TBs and wanted something like $250 for them(?)

    The seller on eBay? He may...the new motor I bought did not come with so possibly he held on to them! 

  3. Update to this, still have all the parts. I am looking to let everything go. Some of you may know I just recently bought a brand new timing chest from AF1 racing. I won't be swapping that over...maybe I should keep it haha. 

    I'd like for the parts to go quickly as I have limited shop space at the moment. Everything is in really good condition except for that damaged connecting rod and the crank which could most likely be rebuilt. 

    Let me know if anyone has any questions! 

    Cheers

  4. 1 hour ago, Kevin_T said:

    If you haven't already you should do a leak down test. The engine might just be broken in but its full of dissimilar metals. Chances are 99 out of a 100 there is nothing wrong, still its good to know. You could have a valve that open just a crack or there is some galvanic action going on.

    Good idea, I actually do plan on doing this as well. I have leak down and compression testing instruments. It's great having the motor out already. Makes most of this much less painful haha. Thanks! 

  5. 4 hours ago, Tinus89 said:

    Actually you may want to consider checking the clutch is free. I've had a friend with a Cali III FI whom's clutch fused together in sitting just 8 months.
    If your gearbox is out as well, just connect the engine and gearbox together with 4 bolts and connect & bleed the clutch lever (next to the bike) and see if she declutches. If that works, all fine. If the gearbox is out anyway, should take less then an hour and no need for special tools.

    Ok good deal, that is awesome info! I probably should. I really liked pulling this motor, best fun Ive had in a while.....NOT. Thanks again :)

    • Thanks 1
  6. 35 minutes ago, docc said:

    The clutch would not worry me at all as long as there is no sign of oil, as gstallons mentioned, and no signs of friction disc material having sloughed off. So unlikely for you.

    I would, though, address the (eight!) common leak points on the back of the engine and front of the gearbox while it is so accessible . . .

    IMG_2704.JPG

    Thanks mate, yeah I am planning on taking care of those 8 deals above. I really reading this on another thread! I'll most likely hold off on opening the clutch unless I can access a special too. 

    • Like 1
  7. 48 minutes ago, gstallons said:

    MMMM , I hope oil is not near this clutch . If your bike sat a year or so you would crank the bike and ride it . Correct ? You are doing basically the same with this but on a different bike . T or F ?

    So I bought a bike that had a little tip over with 16k miles on it. and apparently a con rod bearing that was on its way out. Either from running when tipped over or just a bad bearing...who knows. I bought this new motor with only 3k on it but don't know the full history on it unfortunately. The guy I purchased it from bought this bike to use the motor for in another project bike he had but sold it instead and now I bought the motor. 

  8. 6 hours ago, gstallons said:

    You should do the clutch ONLY if you have the tools and do it properly . As in no 3/8" impact on things . Install a new breather hose from MG cycles ( or anywhere but Harper's . Check prices ) or anything else you see that doesn't look good .  Save everything .

    Good luck and get every bolt tight !

    I am not entirely sure how long this new motor sat but on a standard motorcycle clutch that is bathed in oil if it sits for too long the plates can fuse together....Can this happen on these motors? The motor only has 3800 miles on it so don't think it it critical to open it up honestly...I do plan on doing a full check over on everything but just curious on this in particular. Cheers! 

  9. New motor arrived today! This puppy is pretty darn clean and it has the clutch on it thankfully. I feel like I should remove it to inspect and do all the other additional mods. I have a roper plate order put in so need to order up my oil pan gaskets but things are moving! Now, to finish the other two motors I need to rebuild as well :) Plus the old guzzi core. 

    IMG_2627.JPG

    • Like 4
  10. 14 minutes ago, gstallons said:

    BTW , you did a good job loosening in a spiral . Do it the same way when installing .

    Cool, thanks mate. I just read for install a forum member used a m12x1.5 bolt and a larger enough but small enough washer to hold the discs in place with the teeth lined up to compress it all together for install...If not, I may reach out to someone about lending me an alignment tool. Thanks for your help! 

  11. 2 hours ago, Chuck said:

    No. It's just 6 bolts. The special tools are for removing the clutch. You'll need them to install it, too. You may have already warped the intermediate plate and or clutch plates by not using it. :homer:

    whoops :) I took all the retaining screws out evenly to ensure the plate stayed straight when removing. I have a a granite surface plate I use from time to time to check for warpage on other items too. I had only removed the 8 allen bolts that hold it all on. Not the 6 bigger inner bolts on the flywheel. 

  12. Well I pulled the bad motor today and wanted to inspect the clutch before the new one showed up. Not sure if the newer motor has the clutch on it or not. This motor has 16k on I believe and this clutch looks pretty toasty. While I am in there I plan to do all the additional "fixes" that are spread throughout this forum along with tossing in a new clutch...I actually got the motor pulled pretty quickly! Made it easier and lighter that I had both jugs and pistons out too :) The teeth on the flywheel look ok. The only real nastiness I could see was from where the starter motor engages onto the toothed outer plate. 

     

    There is a special tool needed or DIY one made for removing the flywheel correct? but if I plan on just replacing the clutch components on the new motor I shouldn't need anything if the flywheel is still connected right? Pulling the clutch was quite easy once the motor was out and accessible. Thanks all!

     

    IMG_2571.JPGIMG_2574.JPGIMG_2576.JPGIMG_2577.JPG

  13. Hey there! 

    So I am replacing my V11 motor with a replacement soon and will be parting out the stock motor. It had roughly 16k on it when the right connecting rod bearing went out. The motor itself is in fantastic condition still. I could have had this fixed but would rather replace and part out the old one to re-coup some funds...Anyways Below are a few pics. Pretty much the entire motor will be taken apart in the next day and parts sold off individually. I'll get an updated section of pics here soon too but for now what you see is just the right cylinder side. Shoot me an offer on what you're after, I have no use for the old stuff and would rather it not collect too much dust :) My contact number is available too. I am happy to ship items as well! It's easier for me to email or text pics so just keep me posted. 

    Cheers,

    Max
     

     

    List:

    x2 valve covers-$100

    Pushrods, hardware, rockers, rocker holders-$100

    Right side cylinder: $150

    Bad connecting rod and good piston: $60

    Right cylinder head assembly in good shape: $150

    Oil pan: $100

     

     

    • Like 1
  14. 12 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Hmmmm, at least when you buy a crank you can see what you are getting. Hope its not a frying pan to fire deal for you.

    Ciao

    Haha, lets hope not! I have purchased a lot of motors online so hoping this goes just as smooth. I'll still go through this motor as much as possible before tossing up onto the bike. 

  15. 2 hours ago, po18guy said:

    Crap! I was just searching for that to post here - but it's gone! Who do you suppose…? 3877 miles IIRC. Far cheaper than a rebuild. For anyone who needs them, I did find this crank and rods from a Cafe Sport for $300 and change in Kali.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-03-05-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport-OEM-Crankshaft-Connecting-Rods-Engine-Parts/324082671074?hash=item4b74d51de2:g:AmkAAOSw8iJeU2s5

    Yup, I got that one :) Now I am dealing with shipping it. Major PITA! 

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