Jump to content

guzziart

Members
  • Posts

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

guzziart last won the day on June 8 2020

guzziart had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    2003 Moto Guzzi V11 Lemans, '72 MG Eldorado, '72 Honda CL350, '81 CB125s, '87 MG Lemans SE, '91 Honda CT70, '08 Honda Goldwing, '12 Suzuki Wee Strom
  • Location
    Geauga County in Northeast Ohio

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Motorcycling

Recent Profile Visitors

600 profile views

guzziart's Achievements

Guzzisti

Guzzisti (2/5)

73

Reputation

  1. I'll check the balance but I don't have driveability issues like when I got the bike and the TB's were way out of sync. Anyway, give me a few days. Update: OK, I couldn't wait, I ran out to the garage, put the SyncPro on the Lemans, it's all good! TB's are balanced at idle and fluid columns rise in sync as throttled up (to 4k rpm).
  2. FWIW. I removed the evap can T-hoses and capped the manifold ports with high temp vacuum caps bought from McMaster-Carr. The problem with the caps is that every so often a cap would blow off during cold start cranking. To prevent the cap from blowing off I cinched the outside diameter of the cap with small gauge ss lock wire. Then over time I noticed the high temp caps discoloring from heat, I eventually removed the caps, manifold nipples and replaced nipples with screws & fiber sealing washers....it's been fine since.
  3. Hey Doc & Tom, Thanks for the feedback! I'll add the VCm3 to my V11 to do list. Art
  4. So, I see the latest posts on the Lucky Phil/Chuck Extender Mod and thought I'd chime in. After I removed the lowered foot peg set-up installed by the PO of my Lemans, I installed the Lucky Phil/Chuck Extender Mod. I have no regrets, like the short throw and think it has a more natural feel or at least what I am used to on a modern day motorcycle. Thanks for coming up with this mod and making it readily available to the rest of us. Art PS - One of these days I still have to do the shift spring thing before I lose track of the replacement.
  5. Hi Doc, Tomchri, So, what is the general consensus....Auxito or Vintage Car? Yeah, the Auxito price is more attractive. My Lemans has the plastic bucket. Also, whenever I have to do any work behind the fairing, I remove it (pull mirrors, unplug signals & remove 6 or so bolts). Thanks, Art
  6. I agree... However, i just ran out to the garage, grabbed the torque wrench and have concluded that I did torque those bolts to 39nm back in February. Going to ride now!
  7. Yeah, I've got the factory manual sect. B, p. 12 and familiar with step torquing but really thought I had a spec for those particular bolts. MG goes through the effort of putting an fancy diagram in sect O, p.8 & 9 but no bolt torques. The 1100i Sport manual indicates torque to 39nm for the (8mm, GU98832430) bolt which is the same bolt used on the V11 Lemans. I think 39nm is kind of high but what do I know.
  8. In February I put the original rear drive back into my V11 and had the shaft out to clean & service but I can't seem the pinch bolt torque specs now. I'm am confident I torqued those bolts but I can't seem to find the values in my shop manual or notes. Oh, and my drive shaft still had the factory yellow alignment marks on it.
  9. ...here is some of it.. I installed the Electrosport ESR531 Reg/Rect and ESG814 Stator, it was plug & play, no wiring mods were required but I still made sure the ESR531 case was grounded, I had already had a ground tap on the old reg/rect. However, Electroport stated it was not needed and claimed nothing grounds through ESR531 housing. The V11's main harness connector was in excellent condition which I was happy to see. I added headlight (2) relay harness but right now I can't recall if it was Greg Bender's or Eastern Beaver. And, yes headlight gets feed from the battery, relay coils are triggered by oe headlight wiring. I'm really kinda sketchy on the reference voltage thing....I think the last time i looked at the schematic nothing rang a bell in my mind. So, am I right to think the voltage drop in the headlight circuit no longer exists and therefore the reg/rect maintains a lower system voltage???!!! I seem to recall you or others talking about the reference voltage issue. Thoughts/advice? My V11 Lemans is an '03 if that matters. My max system voltage at the battery is 13.98vdc now at 3k-4krpm. Three years ago I had guzzidiag hooked up and had 14.13vdc at 1100 rpm, now it is 12.8-12.9 at 1200 rpm. Did I goof with the headlight relays? I suppose I could pull the fairing, disable the headlight relay circuit and revert to oem to see if it makes a difference. The headlight relay set-up was all plug & play too as I recall. I added a 6th relay to handle starter HC. I got the relay & harness from greg bender. And I just replaced the other 5 relays with CIT #A11CSQ12VDC1.5R relays. I added a redundant ground from batt Neg to the frame. I gotta go, my head is about to blow up....
  10. Yeah, without this board I'd be in more trouble than I'm already in.
  11. Kiwi Roy, Yeah, I have no idea what my inrush current numbers are, I'll take your word for it that they are "high" for a few milliseconds. My D'arsonval meter goes as high as 50amps and has no circuit protection (stupid me). Anyway, I got to thinking my old meter could be giving erroneous readings so i hooked up my digital vom that has a 10 amp fuse for meter protection and jumped the starter again, The current draw was 4-5 amps once the display semi stabilized and the starter was cranking the engine. There is something else you could try with your Ammeter, disconnect the main positive lead to the solenoid, now your inrush current will last as long as the spade connector is powered up, because the starter armature will never see +12 Volts it effectively keeps the heavy current (Grunt Coil) in circuit. The 15 Amp fuse will blow in < 1 second so be prepared to replace that with a 20. .......Nope, ain't gonna do it, no need to, I have no high draw, starter cranks fine. And yeah, I know what happens if I disconnect the heavy gauge battery HOT at the starter and engage the pull-in coil....high draw until I de-energize circuit. Plus with my luck lately I'd booger something up and need a new solenoid. Tell me.....If you disconnect the 16ga primary feed to your starter solenoid on your bike and jump battery pos. to the male spade terminal on the starter solenoid, what is the solenoid current draw a few milliseconds after the starter ramps up to what sounds like normal cranking rpm? Mine is 4-5amps. If guys are getting 10a, 15a, 20amp draws, you got problems, that is all I'm saying. Art
  12. Yeah, I definitely leak more than my bikes. One nice thing is that I replaced all the relays last week on the Lemans so, one less thing to worry about and the price was right!
  13. I've got a Kuryakyn LED thing that the previous owner installed, it did a good job alerting me to my charging system failure so for the time being I'll stick with it. Those digital voltmeters are nice though and inexpensive, for about $8 or less on ebay you can't go wrong. If I could only get motivated to put them on all my other junk. I was disappointed with the idle output of the new stator & reg/rec asm. but cranked the idle up another 75rpm (to slightly under 1200 rpm) so I'm not dropping down to battery voltage at idle now and the K-LED is "green". I don't know...does it really matter bumping up the idle to lessen battery drain? I don't idle that much now that I think about it, coulda probably left the idle where it was.
  14. Hey Kiwi Roy, I jumped batt + to the starter solenoid male spade terminal on my '03 V11 Lemans with a D'arsonval movement ammeter. On my first attempt the meter bounced to 7amps and then came down to 4a during cranking, my 2nd attempt the needle went to 4amps and remained during cranking until I disconnected power. So, I guess if some folks are getting substantially higher current draws in the starter primary circuit, they have a problem...shorted solenoid pull in or hold in coils, dirty contact in solenoid not allowing hold-in to energize. On the other hand, I wonder how many are encountering cranking problems as a result of excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit...poor switch/relay contacts, etc. Yeah, it sucks as these bikes get older and oddball things begin to manifest.
×
×
  • Create New...