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guzziart last won the day on June 8 2020

guzziart had the most liked content!

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About guzziart

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  • My bikes
    2003 Moto Guzzi V11 Lemans, '72 MG Eldorado, '72 Honda CL350, '81 CB125s, '87 MG Lemans SE, '94 Honda CT70, '08 Honda Goldwing, '12 Suzuki Wee Strom
  • Location
    Geauga County in Northeast Ohio

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  1. I elected to replace internal filter on my '03 Lemans because tank gasket failed. Although the internal lines looked fine, I figured I didn't want to ever go in there again (unless pump failed) so, I replaced the 17 year old lines with the Euro Moto item specified in prior post. Good luck!
  2. I've been buying my crush washers from McMaster-Carr for most of my stuff (bikes & cars).
  3. Thanks Pete, I know if I buy one, my original will probably never leak again or fail...cheap insurance. Art
  4. I think finally resolved my timing sensor leak! It appears that two small divots on the very top of the molded rubber housing were weeping oil. So, yes, I believe the oil was migrating up through the center of the sensor. I cleaned/wiped off all the residual oil from the molded rubber housing, cable sheath & coil body. Then placed a drop of penetrating loctite on the two divots, sheath & molded rubber junction and on the business end of the sensor. I then slathered moulded rubber area & sheath junction with JB weld. Installed a new oring ....after a few hundred miles it ain't
  5. Hi Docc, Thanks and thanks for the help & advice! Of note, is that opening the throttle plates to get idle speed is more important than CO and the air screws. If you had to open your air screws more than a full turn to get your target idle, opening the throttle plates to 3.6º my make her even happier. Funny thing here was that I got the smoothest idle at 3.4 (tried 3.1 through 3.7)and the air screws are for sure less than one turn out. I started at one turn out and turned them in to get idle down to 1200 or so and balance at the same time. Yeah, this whole thing has been a
  6. Hi Docc, OK, I adjusted LH TB grub screw to get in the middle of the spec...I think the actual was 3.4/530mv. I then adjusted air screws in to around 1200-1250 rpm. I didn't shoot for a specific rpm but where I did leave them gave me the smothest idle. It still will not start without a little twist grip action when cold but I do not think I care at this point, it still runs great. After the adjustments, I began to play with the CO but I didn't realize any difference in the idle so left it at zero. Thanks again, Art
  7. Hi Docc, I initially set the air screws 1 turn out but tweaked one or the other to balance at idle, adjusted the LH TB grub screw to obtain 1100 rpm or so idle, both TB sync'd at 3K rpm. I've got a shop manual but the info I found so far for idle rpm was 1100 + 50. I'll adjust to the 3.6º/540mV spec and set idle rpm at 1200. And, I'll leave the CO at zero. What are your thoughts on the 6/8 valve spec? Thank you, Art
  8. Hi Docc, OK, for some reason I missed the fact that there was a 3.6º/540mV at idle spec....I can shoot for that. My idle rpm was based on guzzidiag. Thanks, Art
  9. Hi G, I used the LH idle screw to get 1100rpm idle and did not use it to set tps, at idle the tps is 451mv, Throt 2.84 degrees, temp 88c. I sprayed wd40 between TB's & head to detect leaks but no change in rpm was detected. I have also rechecked the closed tps value, it is still 157mv. I could crank the LH idle screw in until I reach 540mv (I'm not opposed to to trying it) but the idle will be substantially higher. What is your idle rpm set to? Thanks, Art
  10. Hi Docc, - Yeah, if I gradually roll on the throttle while cranking (when cold), the bike will immediately start & run and I have no complaints with its performance afterward. - I wonder if diminshed lash results in a too lean condition for cold starts?? But if you're encountering the same at cold start, I'm a little inclined to bump up the CO Trimm by +5 to see if the condition changes.....Thoughts? It was originally at -15 and is now zero. - "set your high idle cam so it just has clearance with the linkage when off" Confirmed! OK, so I'm grasping at straws here b
  11. Hi BS, Confirmed that the high rpm cam is not inadvertantly backing off. Apparently there is plenty of friction up at the handlebar choke lever to overcome spring tension at the cam. Art
  12. Hi G, Sync rod disconnected, confirmed clearance between throt plate linkage & fast idle cam, cleaned carbon from TB's that effected full closure, set tps using break out harness & VOM. Art
  13. Hi All, I have a '03 V11 Lemans that I perceive to have a cold start issue. The process requires more than "choke" on and hit the starter button (cranks fine)....the bike will try to start/run but quickly stalls, usually the 3rd-4th attempt the bike will start and remain running. In order to get the bike started on the 1st cold start attempt requires "choke" & that I twist the throttle during cranking. Do you have to do the same with your V11's?? I thought this cold start issue would resolve itself after performing the following but the condition still exists: Head retorq
  14. Geez, I forgot it was on the TO checklist...don't get old, it sucks. Thank you! Art
  15. Hey Docc, I've got a timing sensor leak. I pulled the sensor, it had plenty of brown goo on it and no Oring. It doesn't appear that the leak is coming up through the middle of the sensor and out through the wiring. Anyway, do you still recommend a #112 Viton Oring to seal the sensor? Thanks, Art
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