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guzziart

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Everything posted by guzziart

  1. Hey Doc & Tom, Thanks for the feedback! I'll add the VCm3 to my V11 to do list. Art
  2. So, I see the latest posts on the Lucky Phil/Chuck Extender Mod and thought I'd chime in. After I removed the lowered foot peg set-up installed by the PO of my Lemans, I installed the Lucky Phil/Chuck Extender Mod. I have no regrets, like the short throw and think it has a more natural feel or at least what I am used to on a modern day motorcycle. Thanks for coming up with this mod and making it readily available to the rest of us. Art PS - One of these days I still have to do the shift spring thing before I lose track of the replacement.
  3. Hi Doc, Tomchri, So, what is the general consensus....Auxito or Vintage Car? Yeah, the Auxito price is more attractive. My Lemans has the plastic bucket. Also, whenever I have to do any work behind the fairing, I remove it (pull mirrors, unplug signals & remove 6 or so bolts). Thanks, Art
  4. I agree... However, i just ran out to the garage, grabbed the torque wrench and have concluded that I did torque those bolts to 39nm back in February. Going to ride now!
  5. Yeah, I've got the factory manual sect. B, p. 12 and familiar with step torquing but really thought I had a spec for those particular bolts. MG goes through the effort of putting an fancy diagram in sect O, p.8 & 9 but no bolt torques. The 1100i Sport manual indicates torque to 39nm for the (8mm, GU98832430) bolt which is the same bolt used on the V11 Lemans. I think 39nm is kind of high but what do I know.
  6. In February I put the original rear drive back into my V11 and had the shaft out to clean & service but I can't seem the pinch bolt torque specs now. I'm am confident I torqued those bolts but I can't seem to find the values in my shop manual or notes. Oh, and my drive shaft still had the factory yellow alignment marks on it.
  7. ...here is some of it.. I installed the Electrosport ESR531 Reg/Rect and ESG814 Stator, it was plug & play, no wiring mods were required but I still made sure the ESR531 case was grounded, I had already had a ground tap on the old reg/rect. However, Electroport stated it was not needed and claimed nothing grounds through ESR531 housing. The V11's main harness connector was in excellent condition which I was happy to see. I added headlight (2) relay harness but right now I can't recall if it was Greg Bender's or Eastern Beaver. And, yes headlight gets feed from the battery, relay coils are triggered by oe headlight wiring. I'm really kinda sketchy on the reference voltage thing....I think the last time i looked at the schematic nothing rang a bell in my mind. So, am I right to think the voltage drop in the headlight circuit no longer exists and therefore the reg/rect maintains a lower system voltage???!!! I seem to recall you or others talking about the reference voltage issue. Thoughts/advice? My V11 Lemans is an '03 if that matters. My max system voltage at the battery is 13.98vdc now at 3k-4krpm. Three years ago I had guzzidiag hooked up and had 14.13vdc at 1100 rpm, now it is 12.8-12.9 at 1200 rpm. Did I goof with the headlight relays? I suppose I could pull the fairing, disable the headlight relay circuit and revert to oem to see if it makes a difference. The headlight relay set-up was all plug & play too as I recall. I added a 6th relay to handle starter HC. I got the relay & harness from greg bender. And I just replaced the other 5 relays with CIT #A11CSQ12VDC1.5R relays. I added a redundant ground from batt Neg to the frame. I gotta go, my head is about to blow up....
  8. Yeah, without this board I'd be in more trouble than I'm already in.
  9. Kiwi Roy, Yeah, I have no idea what my inrush current numbers are, I'll take your word for it that they are "high" for a few milliseconds. My D'arsonval meter goes as high as 50amps and has no circuit protection (stupid me). Anyway, I got to thinking my old meter could be giving erroneous readings so i hooked up my digital vom that has a 10 amp fuse for meter protection and jumped the starter again, The current draw was 4-5 amps once the display semi stabilized and the starter was cranking the engine. There is something else you could try with your Ammeter, disconnect the main positive lead to the solenoid, now your inrush current will last as long as the spade connector is powered up, because the starter armature will never see +12 Volts it effectively keeps the heavy current (Grunt Coil) in circuit. The 15 Amp fuse will blow in < 1 second so be prepared to replace that with a 20. .......Nope, ain't gonna do it, no need to, I have no high draw, starter cranks fine. And yeah, I know what happens if I disconnect the heavy gauge battery HOT at the starter and engage the pull-in coil....high draw until I de-energize circuit. Plus with my luck lately I'd booger something up and need a new solenoid. Tell me.....If you disconnect the 16ga primary feed to your starter solenoid on your bike and jump battery pos. to the male spade terminal on the starter solenoid, what is the solenoid current draw a few milliseconds after the starter ramps up to what sounds like normal cranking rpm? Mine is 4-5amps. If guys are getting 10a, 15a, 20amp draws, you got problems, that is all I'm saying. Art
  10. Yeah, I definitely leak more than my bikes. One nice thing is that I replaced all the relays last week on the Lemans so, one less thing to worry about and the price was right!
  11. I've got a Kuryakyn LED thing that the previous owner installed, it did a good job alerting me to my charging system failure so for the time being I'll stick with it. Those digital voltmeters are nice though and inexpensive, for about $8 or less on ebay you can't go wrong. If I could only get motivated to put them on all my other junk. I was disappointed with the idle output of the new stator & reg/rec asm. but cranked the idle up another 75rpm (to slightly under 1200 rpm) so I'm not dropping down to battery voltage at idle now and the K-LED is "green". I don't know...does it really matter bumping up the idle to lessen battery drain? I don't idle that much now that I think about it, coulda probably left the idle where it was.
  12. Hey Kiwi Roy, I jumped batt + to the starter solenoid male spade terminal on my '03 V11 Lemans with a D'arsonval movement ammeter. On my first attempt the meter bounced to 7amps and then came down to 4a during cranking, my 2nd attempt the needle went to 4amps and remained during cranking until I disconnected power. So, I guess if some folks are getting substantially higher current draws in the starter primary circuit, they have a problem...shorted solenoid pull in or hold in coils, dirty contact in solenoid not allowing hold-in to energize. On the other hand, I wonder how many are encountering cranking problems as a result of excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit...poor switch/relay contacts, etc. Yeah, it sucks as these bikes get older and oddball things begin to manifest.
  13. Thanks Docc! It looks like Digi-Key has stock, they're $2.55 each....I think I'll pull the trigger....I'll buy 5. Art
  14. Hi, OK, I've read this thread and the (Solved!) Had to get a jump start from roadside assistance; starter motor not cranking after a chilly night; intermitent issue?! . Am I understanding correctly that the general concensus here is to go with the CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R relay since the Omron G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 is no longer available??!! If the answer is yes, please disregard the following. I guess my corn-fusion is whether or not someone has actually ran the A11CSQ12VDC1.5R? And, it can be used in any/all of the relay bases. Does the A11CSQ12VDC1.5R have a 1.2w, 1.5w or 1.7w coil?....Does the coil wattage matter? I apologize if you've answered this before...several times. Thanks, Art
  15. Hi, FWIW, I installed a "high current" starter relay as described here previously. I got a relay & harness assembly from Greg Bender (This Old Tractor) that was basically "plug and play". His assembly comes with a relay base that piggy backs on to the existing relay bank, a 30/87 harness runs down to the starter solenoid (one lead plugs into starter, the other plugs into existing 87 from OE start relay) and a fused batt Pos lead to HC relay term 30. It works great and mimics what gstallons described earlier. On another note, I checked solenoid draw. With the engine cold, jumping from bat Pos to the solenoid terminal on the starter my intial draw was 7amps and as the starter engaged and began cranking the draw dropped to 4amps. On my 2nd attempt the intial draw was 4amps and remained at 4 amps. I didn't try a 3rd time. Oh...this was on my '03 Lemans. PS - I also posted this at "(solved) Had to get a jump start from roadside assistance...."
  16. Hi, FWIW, I installed a "high current" starter relay as described here previously. I got a relay & harness assembly from Greg Bender (This Old Tractor) that was basically "plug and play". His assembly comes with a relay base that piggy backs on to the existing relay bank, a 30/87 harness runs down to the starter solenoid (one lead plugs into starter, the other plugs into existing 87 from OE start relay) and a fused batt Pos lead to HC relay term 30. It works great. On another note, I checked solenoid draw. With the engine cold, jumping from bat Pos to the solenoid terminal on the starter my intial draw was 7amps and as the starter engaged and began cranking the draw dropped to 4amps. On my 2nd attempt the intial draw was 4amps and remained at 4 amps. I didn't try a 3rd time. Oh...this was on my '03 Lemans. PS - I also posted this at Starter Interuptus thread.
  17. Hi, I just installed a new reg & stator, have the headlight on a relay, a 2 year old Odyssey PC545 battery and I'm getting 12.9-13vdc at the battery @ 1100rpm, 13.6vdc max at higher rpms. So, I am now off to the garage to attempt to find a problem. I expected to see around 14vdc... However, the last time I saw 14.1 vdc on this bike was with guzzidiag reporting the system voltage, no aux headlight relay installed yet whereas now I've got the hdl on a relay circuit and I'm checking system voltage with a digital multimeter at the battery.
  18. Yeah, I use the rear wheel method to get to TDC otherwise I have to remove the header pipes (because of crossover) to remove the stator cover to access the crank nut. Speaking of stator covers, I've got mine off right now because I'm in the middle of replacing the stator. Anyway, the battleship flat gray paint on the cover was chipped & bubbling so I removed all the paint and primed it with rustoleum self etching primer and plan on topping it with VHT Wheel paint (polyurethane). I honestly don't know what I'm doing especially when it comes to paint so feel free to advise! I never liked the gray the was on the cover but didn't have any success finding something similar so I went with VHT's sp188 ford argent silver. Whatta ya's think? One isn't compatible with the other ?
  19. I'm a little late to the post here but I had the same problem...couldn't tell what the trans level was because of pink crud encrusted sightglass. Well, instead of replacing trans oil with shockproof like the PO had been running, I replaced the oil with the specified amount of sae 80w90 (valvoline or the like because I was trying to be trifty) and called it a day. The bike needed so much other routine maint stuff I figured I'd deal with the sightglass some other time, I just wanted to get the bike running good. Sometime & miles later during an engine oil change I was pleasantly surprised to find that the trans sightglass was perfectly clean as it displayed a light tea colored oil on the other side of the glass. So, if you aint pulled the glass yet and you're not running the red stuff you may want to give it a few K miles, it might "self" clean. Art
  20. Yeah, after reading posts in this thread and in another one or two, I'm going to add a 6th relay. In a former post here somewhere I saw a diagram by Stewgnu where a 6th "High Current" relay was added, that will be the way I proceed with this to prevent a potential future problem. I think it is along the same lines as what Gstallions described above. On my 03 Lemans, I've got, what seems to me, a 16 ga. brn/blk to the starter solenoid....not very heavy gauge wire for carrying any kind of substantial current. So, I'm kind of wondering how much current is actually flowing through there once the solenoid hold-in coil takes over after the pull-in coil has been initiated. I have a couple things going on with Lemans right now but once I get it somewhat more together where I can re-connect the batt, etc., I plan on jumping battery+ to the solenoid spade terminal with an ammeter in between to see what the draw is. I imagine the draw might be high for the first few milliseconds but after that I would expect to see 8 amps or less. Just curious I guess....and maybe too much time on my hands.
  21. Hey Stewgnu, I'm with you, it took me a while to figure out what was going on here...in this thread. A few years ago the subject came up somewhere so, I looked at the wiring diagram, saw a starter relay and figured I was fine. This morning I pulled out the diagram for my '03 V11 Lemans, took a look and discovered that mine is pulling starter solenoid current through the ignition switch too. I haven't had a start problem yet but suppose it would eventually happen. The fix is probably less expensive than replacing a burned up ign sw. So, now I guess I've got a little more work to do. I'll have to re-read this whole thread, didn't recall seeing a step by step process but did see the 6th relay added to the bank that looks great and the CIT relay brand comments. Art
  22. ...Not afraid of splicing anything. The insulation had melted into the wire strands where the burned pin connectors were originally. I had to remove a lot of the stator wiring then to salvage the stator. This time it was the plug & wiring at the voltage regultor to stator connection. Why MG had pin connectors plus spade connectors in the stator wiring to the voltage regulator is anyone's guess but with the new replacement stator & reg. there will be one connection versus two or more in the stator circuit.. And I will be able to continue using the OE spade connector from the reg. to the batt. which has nothing wrong with it. Yeah, I could have saved myself $300 by seeing how much more I could trim out, hardwire & replace this area but then it would be an issue in the future for me or the next caretaker to check stator voltage, etc. I guess in this circumstance I didn't feel trying to salvage these 20 year old items would be an improvement. Art
  23. Yeah, I reached out to Electrosport for clarification on the electrical connection compatibility. I'm looking at their ESG814 Stator & ESR515 Regulator/rectifier....the stator has a sqare plug with spade connectors & their reg/rect has an SAE connector & 3 male pin connectors so, how does one plug into the other??. I really don't want to be splicing/cobbling stuff together, would prefer a "plug & play" set-up. Hopefully I'll hear back from them today or tomorrow...even though I'm not in a big hurry to spend money. On the plus side, Electrosport offers a one year warranty with no Odyssey battery disclaimer. It looks like I could have some of the same connector issues with Euro Motoelectric stuff too.
  24. guzziart

    '03 V11 Lemans

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