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guzziart

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Posts posted by guzziart

  1. My LED headlight bulb experiences with the V11 Lemans....

    1st LED was a few millimeters too long on the backside and caused an interference fit with the back of the bucket so, that didn't work. 

    2nd LED was the same overall dimensions as the oem H4, it fit, it worked fine with the inside shield.  However, the LED was an "off brand"  for about $15, it only lasted a few weeks.  I reinstalled the original bulb.

    I'll probably get back to installing a "good" quality LED headlight bulb one of these days.  I liked the lower current draw on the electrical system with the LED in place.

  2. On 3/18/2024 at 8:04 PM, docc said:

    Registration here in Tennessee, USA, is on the month anniversary of the first registration of the vehicle with the current owner, usually the purchase date. This spatters my registrations rather randomly through the year. While it spreads the payments out, it also makes it easy to miss a renewal.

    One of the games we play when a bunch of bikes gather is to look for whose registration has dropped. It is always somebody. :rolleyes:

    Also, here in Tennessee, a 25 year old vehicle is eligible for a one time, permanent "antique" registration. Special use restrictions apply (not supposed to be commuting on a daily basis etc).

    Next year, mySport is eligible. :oldgit: :ph34r: :wacko:

    FWIW....Tennessee annual purchase date registration is a pita imho, I would definitely get in trouble.  However, I like the registration game :D

    Ohio has the same 25 yo "historical" tag option with conditions and requires renewal every 50 years....yeah, 50 years.  With all the junk I have the historical option saves me alot in annual registration fees.  Further, Ohio allows owners to replate vehicles with tags from that era.  My '71 cb350 has a plate that was "minted" in '71...yellow with black lettering, the '72 cl350 & Eldo have plates stamped out in '72...they're dark blue with yellow lettering.  It's kinda neat running around on an old bike with a plate that was stamped out in the same year the bike was manufactured.

    One of my riding buds, who has an old Eldo too teases me that his Eldo is original, whereas mine is not because I did the gen to alternator conversion.  My response is that my bike has the original plate that was issued to the bike in '72, so there!  I had bought the bike from the original owner and he managed to save & include the plate with the bike purchase.  Although my friend got his Eldo from his dad, his originally issued registration plate is long gone.  We have fun goofing on each other over stupid stuff...obviously, I guess.

    On another note, I have a 4' x 8'  1500lb gvwr trailer I bought new in '90 for $400, I use it two or three times a year.  In the 33 years of ownership it has cost me over $1200 in registration fees.:wacko:

     

    • Like 1
  3. My Wing has cc, it really comes in handy on long stretches of interstate when going out for 2-3 weeks.  The MG v85tt has peaked my interest since I'm looking to downsize from the wing and also replace my wee Strom the was totalled last May, the v85 has cc.  The v85 is also a lot less $$$ than other bikes with cc (bmw gs, honda africa twin, suzi Vstrom1050, etc.).  And, my arthritic right wrist likes th ebenefits of cc too.

     

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  4. I'm glad Ohio has it annually, registrations expire on the owners birthday, the state sends out notifications about 6 weeks before expiration.  These days the state allows us to register for a two year period instead of one...our choice but there's no break in fees... a two year is twice as much.  If you buy mid year the registration fee is prorated.  If you sell and buy something else, the transfer fee is minimal.  If you sell and don't replace the registration fee is non-refundable.  Registrations can be had at the "Registrars" office or online....online is super convenient especially if you've got multiple vehicles.  They'll take a check, cash or card at the office but a card will be an additional 3%.  Online they take a check routing number or cc but a cc will cost an additional 3%.

  5. Hi,

    I pull the pan on my V11 Lemans when replacing the filter.  The original owner put a hose clamp on the filter to keep it from working itself loose so I kept up with the technique.  With the hose clamp the filter can't be removed through the filter port in the pan.  Plus, I think he may have boogered up the filter cover threads or pan threads...I've not attempted to remove round port cover.

    I also use a hose clamp on the filter of my LMIV & Eldo.  My experience has been that the rubber oil filter base gasket looses tension between filter changes.  The hose clamp keeps the filter from rotating loose as the base gasket tension diminishes.  As long as the filter doesn't rotate theres a good chance oil pressure won't diminish to critical low levels.  My personal experiences with my older MG's has been that the filter is nowhere near as tight when I go to remove it as it was when I installed it.  However, since I replace the filter every 2nd oil change maybe the base gaskets have improved over the years and it will be different once I exhaust my current filter inventory.  IDK.

    Art

    • Like 1
  6. Sitting here in my recliner.........Maybe a weak ground connection??!!  You could try grounding the horns separately to see if the condition changes to where it doesnt effect the tach function. idk.  I'm sure someone will be along soon to offer other ideas/fixes.

    Art

    • Like 1
  7. I'm running the DAS Mototecs, have them as far aft and up as they'll go without hose replacement & wiring mods.  I wouldn't mind trying the Verlicci style set up to see if I can last more than an hour between stops to let blood flow back into my groin area/stave off numbness.   Right out of the gate with Verlicci style clips i'd get longer hoses and get with greg bender to fab up some plug n play extension harnesses so I wouldn't have to cobble the oe wiring.  Yeah, I;ve given it some thought but so far haven't taken any action.  What I don't like about the Mototecs is they require the forks  raised up about 10mm higher into the top clamp vs stock set up.  So, I'm sitting up slightly higher but have to crane my neck to get my head up that much further to see down the road because of the change in geometry by moving the forks up higher into the top clamp.  However, imo, the Mototecs are excellent quality.  Oh well.

    Art

    • Like 1
  8. 15 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

    I hardly use my pneumatic gun once I got this unit. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/impact-wrenches/7-amp-12-in-impact-wrench-with-rocker-switch-61173.html

     

    This should remove that bolt, right proper!

    Yeah, these new electric impacts are pretty impressive and getting smaller & less expensive as time goes on.  I've got an ancient (bought it in '74, to remove wheel lugnuts on my '67 XR7 to do a brake job in the apartment building parking lot:D) Crapsman electric that's huge, about the only place I can use it where it's size is not a problem is for wheel lug nuts.  Now that I think about it, I can't remember the last time I used the electric, I just fire up the comressor and use the air gun but there could be a battery powered impact in my future...idk.

    Rydfly, your rotor fin mishap makes me sick, sorry for your loss, hopefully a good used inexpensively priced rotor is readily available.

    Art

  9. I wonder if those of you that had to replace the hose AGAIN and AGAIN installed an aftermafket hose or geuine Guzzi item.  Yeah, I know MG doesn't make their own hoses but they do specify what the salient characteristics must be, some of those characteristics could be missing from the aftermarket offerings (aka generic, knock off, etc.). Anyway,  I've not had to replace mine, it looks good/ok to me, no weather checking and is pliable.  However, my breather hose is 20+ years old maybe I should buy one so the next time the tank is off I can replace it.  OEM or aftermarket??!!

    Thanks,

    Art

    Geez, I just realized I got way off the oil cooler topic. 

  10. My:2c:...

    I'm retired, on a fixed income, don't have deep pockets but when or if my breather hose fails, this is my contingency plan....https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186 .Yeah, it maybe made of material that is not as good as the original or it might be better, who knows, I don't care.  Plus it won't be boogered up with a half dozen hose clamps.:D

    On the otherhand, if I replaced one of these hoses with an aftermarket piece and it didn't last more that a season or two I'd opt for the genuine oe stuff.  FWIW, the breather hose on mine is 20+ years old and shows no sign deterioration (weather checking, etc.)  Hope I didn't put the maloik on it by bragging that it's the original.

    Respectfully submitted,

    Art

    PS - I like the $0.02 imoji

     

    • Like 2
  11. On 1/11/2024 at 8:23 PM, leroysch said:

    Hi Andy...I'll take 'em. PMing you....

    My :2c:......

    The original owner of my Lemans installed those and when I've had to pull the pipes (twice....for stator and cam chain cover gasket) the task was  easier imo than if I had to deal with some other material that was used to seal that connection.

    Art

    • Like 2
  12. Oh, I thought I was fortunate to find a 16" front and also a rear that were same make/model in the appropriate size (whatever that is) tire.  Not that it matters to me because I don't think I'll be burning through the BT46's ever because the LMIVSE doesn't see alot of action these days but wonder about speed and load ratings of the scooter tires.  I'd probably never take the bike over 80/85mph however, the bike is capable of 135+mph in the hands of someone more daring.  And then there is the overall weight of the bike which I think is definitely heavier than a scooter.  Of ourse there are some big scooters out there in the 600cc neighborhood.....Honda Silverwing 600 comes to mind...weighs as much as the LMIVSE I think.  IDK, I'm just rambling, thinking out loud, getting off track and gotta focus on a pair of tires for my '03 Lemans.  

  13. Good thread, especially since my '03 Lemans needs tires, I'll look forward to future posts here before I buy tires.

    Hey Chuck & Guzzimoto, I put Bridgestone BT46's recently on my '87 LMIVSE w/16' front wheel.  I feel the BT46's were a huge improvement over the Dunlop GT 501's that I'd been running.  When I got the bike it had the gt501's, I replaced them because when I'd accelerate from a stop into a right or left turn the rear wheel would break loose/lose traction with a little too much throttle and figured they're old, hard, etc.  Well, I replaced them with gt501's and the traction loss remained so I wrote it off to the bike being that powerful.  So, I burned through gt501's and this last time I went with the BT46's... no more traction issues.  Also, after chasing a 38-42mph head shake issue for years...that was gone too.

  14. FWIW, I tried to install one of those 7" round "Jeep" style sealed LED headlamps in my '03 Lemans.  As I recall, the OE lamp is designed to retain the bezel so, the aftermarket Jeep thing I wanted to install was not compatible with the bezel.  Leave it to MG to take a design that the rest of the world uses and reverse it. Luckily, my '72 Eldo was manufactured pre-bean counter and I was therefore able to pop the 7 incher into that thing and it works great!

    Art

  15. Hey Scud,

    I think it was after a thread disussion here with you that I went and got the Mojolever & Mark Parnes balancer:thumbsup:.

    I'm still using stick on weights on my cast wheels and wire solder on laced wheels.  My '72 Eldo had balancing beads installed by the former owner, the issue I had with those was that every time I checked tire pressure, the shrader valve would stick open and I'd have to give the tire a shot of air to clear the bead debris from the valve seating area otherwise  the balancing beads worked ok. When I replaced the tires & tubes on that bike I balanced with external wheel weighting.  However, the Ride-On product looks interesting.  I do wonder about the difference in dynamics of the wheel assembly by going from a few grams of external weight versus several onces of beads or goo.  I suppose it doesn't really matter, folks are using both with no apparent issues.

    Art

    • Like 2
  16. Hi LP,

    Nice, I don't think I came across the Rabaconda unit when I was looking back in 2017.  I looked at the Max2H changer but thought I'm getting too old to be scrambling around on the ground.

    Yeah, I like the Rabaconda stopper pin, lube brush & lube bucket.  I also like the duckhead, looks similar to the set-up on Coats powered changers, don't know why Nomar didn't put the like on their tire bar other than maybe a patent problem..idk.  I have a Nomar, I never got the technique for using their tire bar, luckily someone posted something about the Mojolever ( https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm ), it made all the difference in the world for me, works great, no special technique needed to use. 

    Another thing is the lube.  I was using Ru Glide when using powered changers but found it drys too quickly, for me, when using a manual changer so it's the grease for me.  I dislike using the Nomar lube...small tub, you need two hands to use, one to hold the tub & the other to dip in, get lube all over it, hit the tire and rim then wipe off hand....stupid.  Rabaconda grease brush looks great as does their big grease pail....I'm gonna see about obtaining those items.

    The Max2H has a stopper pin set-up too, Nomar doesn't...I use a shipping tie down to keep the wheel from spinning in the wheel clamps or like Rabaconda recommends for use on laced wheels.

    I complained to Nomar about their wrinkle finish paint flaking off into the wheel bearing area when using the tire bar against the center pin, they told me I could buy a new center pin.

    My Nomar doesn't have the portability of the Rabaconda or Max2h.  I stow the Nomar in the corner of the garage strapped to a HF two wheel dollie.  When I need it, I wheel it into postion in the garage and bolt it down to the concrete threaded inserts that I have previously installed into the garage floor. The bolts only need be finger tight.  So far it has worked out ok.

    FWIW, I use a Mark Parnes balancer too, it works good imo.  I hate the price of wheel weights, I suppose it is what it is.

    Anyway, the Rabaconda changer looks great!

    Art

    large.Nomar.jpg

     

    • Like 2
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