Bob LeClair
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Posts posted by Bob LeClair
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12 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Well of course the other suggestions are valid but it depends on when you checked the head temps. The only real way is on the move riding. As soon as you stop other variable come into play. My bike also runs a little different temp one side to another but its also in the nature of the engine architecture. That's why the right cylinder fuel map is different to the left which is the base map and the right has corrections based on the left. The right cylinder's header pipe and intake are different lengths compared to the left due to the cylinder offset due to side by side rods. You can of course adjust the right cylinder offset via Tunerpro. Here's the offset map for a std V11 Sport map MY2000 showing the different injector pulse times compared to the Left cylinder.
Left cylinder base map.
Ciao
I wish I understood that better, it's all Greek to me. I'm sure a comprehensive tuning would wake up the beast.
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7 hours ago, Chuck said:
My understanding is the left works a little harder than the right because of the firing order. (?)
??? The firing order is 1-2-1-2, evenly spaced. 90 degree v twins have perfect primary balance, unlike that American brand.
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I did replace all the rubber boots but I haven't checked the balance screws yet. Weekend project.
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On 3/20/2021 at 1:15 PM, Bob LeClair said:
I noticed when changing the rear wheel, that it spins easier when the axle nut is loose, and is stiffer to turn when torqued down. Am I doing something wrong? Did I miss something during reassembly? It looks like I have everything in the proper place, according to the parts diagram.
After removal and replacement it appears okay, no noticeable drag tight or loose.
This is a great place.
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2002 V11 Lemans. After an hour ride I thought I'd check the cylinder temperature, and the left was about 50 F hotter than the right. Didn't notice any running problems, power seemed smooth, but this was the first real ride on the bike. Is this a tuning issue? Bike has Guzzi headers and aftermarket crossover and mufflers. It had a Power Commander III when it came to me but I've removed it. Previous owner had installed it along with the pipes. I've been reading about the tuning procedures using cables and a laptop with Guzzidiag. Not a computer savvy guy so it's a little scary to contemplate reprogramming the ECU. I have no complaints about how she runs, but I have no baseline to compare. Any suggestions for my next steps?
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20 minutes ago, docc said:
Yeah, the tension on the pivot is adjusted with the bolt into the subframe so it moves freely, but without excessive play. Then the lock nut secures the pivot bolt position. Sometimes, it helps to add a shim between the shift lever and the subframe tab to get a smooth action without the lever twisting on the stroke. Part of tuning the external shift mechanism . . .
Little to no lateral play, no room for a washer, but now it's smooth with very little slop. Thanks for the input.
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Found the problem: the bolt threads into the sub frame, the nut is a lock nut to secure the bolt in place. Never mind, just learning.
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13 minutes ago, docc said:
There is a lock nut on the inboard side of the bracket. fiddly to get to.
I removed the nut but no movement, the shift lever moves the same with the bolt tight or loose.
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2002 V11 Lemans, wanted to clean and lube the shift lever bushings as part of general servicing while the swingarm is off. The bolt spins but won't come out. The head protrudes about 3.5mm from the pork chop and won't go in further. Tried to tap it out with a brass mallet, no movement in either direction. I've put liquid wrench on the bolt and lever, no help. The shifter moves up and down okay, a little wobble at the inside end but no bind or stiffness. Any suggestions, or just leave it alone? I hate the idea of just beating on it until it's loose or breaking something.
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On 3/20/2021 at 1:36 PM, footgoose said:
If it's bent, don't ride it fast or far. Just for "shake downs" no pun intended. The vibe will eventually blow out the uni joints. I saw a shaft from an '04 on ebay a short while back, low miles I recall. Hang in there, you'll get it sorted. You're in the right place.
I rode it about 10 miles, only up to about 50mph, didn't notice any shake, but I'm going to replace it anyway. I'm learning a lot about these machines from this project, and I like how they are relatively simple and straightforward to work on.
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On 3/20/2021 at 2:49 PM, Lucky Phil said:
Not sure how the hell a drive shaft gets bent but if it is then it's time for a new one I'd say. The only possible option would be a drive shaft specialist but most only tackle the car shafts they are used to dealing with. I personally would have a go at straightening it in a press if it wasn't too bad, but that's me. It's definitely bent is it, I mean if the shaft is full of grease it can stop the splines fully engaging from memory and the suction can make them hard to get apart, or am I dreaming again? I wouldn't be surprised if you stuck a runout gauge on a Guzzi shaft it would have .010"-.020" runout.
ciao
I cleaned out the grease before trying to reassemble it, the splines bound up about halfway in.
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The bend is noticable when you rotate the back wheel, maybe a eighth inch out of round. I found one at a shop that I ordered. Also noticed when I torque down the axle, the wheel is harder to turn than when the nut is loose. Normal or something else to worry about?
The swingarm is a snug fit between the pork chops, doesn't bind but zero clearance. I miked the pivot pins on both sides before dismantling, but there's no side to side play so why'd I have to mike the pins if there's no adjustment to be made?
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I noticed when changing the rear wheel, that it spins easier when the axle nut is loose, and is stiffer to turn when torqued down. Am I doing something wrong? Did I miss something during reassembly? It looks like I have everything in the proper place, according to the parts diagram.
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My 2002 lemans drive shaft has a wobble when turning and the splines were binding so that it wouldn't come apart. Had to use a scissor jack to separate them. Splines are fine, well greased, but would only slide together halfway before binding. Turns out it is bent, hence the bind. I did some judicious sanding and filing and now it has full travel. I went on a short ride and didn't notice any shake from the possible imbalance. It must be stated that I have never ridden the bike before, it was very not running when I got it, stored outside in the elements for several years and in need of serious attention.
So now my question: what should I do about it? Try to get it straightened, replace it, or leave it? The misalignment is noticeable when turning though I have not miked it to see how far out it is. If it can't be straightened, does someone have a replacement? I want to sell it but I'm not comfortable with it as is. Thanks in advance for any input.
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2002 V11 lemans, vin # ZGUKRAKR32Mxxxxxx. ZGU is Italy Guzzi, KRAKR is the mystery. Does it refer to engine family and transmission, body type, or other meaning? 3 is the check digit, 2 is the year, and M is the place of assembly. Trying to figure out what I've got here.
One cylinder hotter than the other
in Technical Topics
Posted
I used one of those infrared thermometers, read the valve cover, cylinder heads above the exhaust pipe, and the pipes. No crossover in front, just an "X" in the middle and then the mufflers.