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bridge

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Everything posted by bridge

  1. Yeah! That would be great -- please send details when you get back -- thanks!
  2. Hard or soft, I'm not picky. Hoping to get on the road this summer for some multi-day touring.
  3. YOU GUYS ARE GENIUSES! Everything on my Lemans works! 🙏🏽 Had my doubts about the relays. Now I have a working clutch, high beam, horn, and tachometer. Yes!
  4. I had ordered these — looks like the numbers differ — Amazon threw them up as an option and I didn’t double- check. OMRON ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS - G8V-1C7T-R-DC12 (2 Pieces)- MICRO AUTOMOTIVE RELAY, SPDT, 12VDC, 20A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J39P7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P99Z6TAWGP6EACWJZ3Z1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  5. Thanks. I just ordered the Panasonic replacements, which looked correct on the Digi-Key website. Hope this solves all my problems!
  6. The OMRON replacement relay on the left; original on the right.
  7. I bought five OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 but they don’t fit. What is the generic relay for the V11 Lemans?
  8. That worked. Thank you Tinknocker. Thank you all for your excellent advice. Now, my high beam, horn, and tachometer don’t work. The fuses are all OK. It’s a mechanical tach, correct? Where should I start to troubleshoot the high beam and horn?
  9. Makes sense, but in my case the bike had idled only a minute or two (I hadn’t ridden the bike yet), and the hydraulic line was still cool.
  10. I did get the clutch partially working. I opened the bleeder valve and let out a little fluid, but couldn’t properly bleed it, as I didn’t have any hose. I squeezed the lever about 100 times to build up pressure, which seem to work (or it made my hand tired). I’ll do a proper bleed tomorrow. Thank you for all your help.
  11. First truly nice day here in coastal Maine. Got my 2003 V11 Lemans out of the garage. It started right up. That’s the good news. I have absolutely no clutch. Hydraulic fluid looks full and clean but there’s no resistance on the lever and the clutch is not operating. Please let me know where to look to diagnose the problem. Eager to ride.
  12. I am reacquainting myself with a 2003 Lemans, a bike I had owned from 2004 to 2011 and regrettably sold. This year I became very ill and during my recovery I decided I wanted to ride that bike again, and I acquired one a lovely black Lemans from Arizona. I remembered spending lots of time and money sorting out the ergonomics on my earlier bike and realized I had to do the same on this one. This weekend I installed Apex bar risers, which, after hours of fiddling, worked perfectly. As for the seat (I had a Rich Maund seat on my earlier Lemans, but he's retired now), it still needs improvement, but it's basically tolerable with a seat pad. I tend to slide forward into the tank. Any thoughts on aftermarket seats? Russell seats look comfortable, if not attractive, and expensive. I relocated the stock footpegs using existing mounting points, and not leaving well enough, I kludged together a pair of adjustable pegs with bushings and shims to lower the pegs even more (probably a total of three inches). But the foot controls are way too high and are awkward to use (I miss lots of shifts). Are the stock foot controls adjustable? I discovered the Motobits footpeg relocator kit -- are there others? I had an Evoluzione kit on my earlier bike, no longer available, nor is the Motratech kit. Is there another option to adjust the foot levers, now that I got the pegs right? My Lemans burps and stumbles at low revs, and especially when decelerating. It's rather jolting and unpleasant. Riding at low speed is no fun. My earlier Lemans had a Power Commander III, which sorted out injection issues. Should I look at some electronic management device/remap, or is there another solution to the issue? The engine doesn't miss a beat over 5000 rpms. Lest it seem that I have nothing but complaints, I haven't had this much fun on a bike in a decade (when I sold my first Lemans, I guess), especially when riding with revs 5500 to 7000 rpm. It's an absolute joy to ride, and to look at as well. I love this bike --
  13. Got it right. Thanks for your responses, especially Lucky Phil, who kept me from doing something dumb.
  14. Excellent -- thank you. I put it back to rights after dinner, and by keeping the clip-on clamps below the triple clamp and extending the bar post all the way up (4"), was able to get the rise I wanted, keep the stock hoses and cables, and not worry about disturbing the front end. Will post photos tomorrow.
  15. Yes, good thought, but I couldn't get that to work with the right bar, and don't want to switch out cables and hoses. Maybe I'll have to...
  16. How do you insert more photographs than the limit of 0.2MB allows?
  17. At 61 I can endure my Lemans riding position for one hour but not three. I checked out all the bar riser options and chose the Apex 4" Riser Clip-On Set @ $269 delivered. They seemed to offer adjustments in every dimension, with the possibility that I would not have to change any hoses, cables, or lines. I first tried the Apex clamps on top of the triple clamp plate without changing the position of the clamp on the forks. The left side went perfectly, but the right side throttle cable wouldn't reach that far. I then pulled the triple clamp and placed the Apex riser clamps beneath the plate, reinstalling the plate to be even with the top of the fork caps. After trying every possible position (and after discovering the starter button housing has a pin and that I needed to drill the bar), I got it all to work and to feel right from the rider position. I will include more pictures in separate posts (the size of attachments is very limited). Three questions -- (and please let me know if I did anything really wrong) (1) The threaded cap at the center of the triple clamp plate no longer reaches the threads, as the clamp has been raised. What replacement fastener I should look for? I imagine not replacing it would be a very bad idea. (2) Will there be noticeable changes to the front end handling since I raised the clamp about an inch? (3) The PO kindly left a Throttlemeister on the bars. I pulled off the weighted bar ends with no trouble, but I can't figure out how to removed the inserts in the stock bars in order to install the Throttlemeister in the new bars. Anyone know how to do this?
  18. Thank you, footgoose. Very helpful. I sent a note to MPH to see if their risers are still available. Could you tell me why the stock bars wouldn't fit other risers? When you mention similar styles, could you give me some examples?
  19. I acquired a lovely '03 V11 Lemans after a long layoff from riding. I had owned the same year and model Lemans in my 40s, sold it, and determined in my 60s it was the bike I most loved and wanted back. I'm older now and the reach to the bars is fine for one hour of riding and pure agony for three hours. I would like to raise the bars, and have looked at many options (below). 1) Please tell me if I missed any good choices (I realize much has been written on the topic, and I have read the past posts). I am open to any option including replacing with standard handlebars; 2) I would like as much increase in rise and setback as possible without replacing hoses, as my mechanical skills and ambitions are limited. I would also like to use the stock bars; 3) My current preference is Tarozzi clip-ons (http://www.fastfromthepast.com/56-0021). Would this setup work with the stock bars? Any idea whether the maximum rise (70mm) would require replacing hoses? 4) Is there a difference mechanically or in handling in placing the clip-ons above or below the triple clamp? Is there a good step-by-step guide for installation? My thanks for your patience and wisdom. Brian https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/product/3-inch-clip-on-riser-assembly https://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/apex-clip-ons/apex-3-riser-clipon-set https://convertibars.3dcartstores.com/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Lemans-Bike-Specific-Kit_p_200.html http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/Tommaselli-multi-adjustable-clipons http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/Tarozzi-adjustable-clipons-semi-high http://www.fastfromthepast.com/56-0034 https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2916 https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=sc&products_id=3116#prettyPhoto
  20. Finished lowering the pegs as milar outlined above. The increased leg room is perfect. I had a little trouble getting the brake pedal to move freely while holding the peg tight, but worked it out with the addition of a nut right up against the peg mount. I ordered and received spacers to fill out the inner diameter of the brake pedal. They fit over the M10 bolt and very nearly (maybe 1mm shy, a little play) make up the gap. The only drawback of the new arrangement is shifting up, as the shifter lever is too high and I can't shift without removing my foot from the peg (a lot of false neutrals). Is the shifter angle adjustable? I'm happy to send you my extra hardware (two extra long M10 bolts for the right side, plus nine sets of spacers. PM me with your mailing address, no charge.
  21. Thank you, po18guy. It worked. At least I have the bike back to the way it was before I started fiddling with the pegs. Brian
  22. Apologies for a newbie question -- I removed the rear brake pedal and the brake actuating rod came free of the master cylinder. Please tell me what's involved in reinserting it. Do I need new seals? Rebuild kit? Brian
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