Jump to content

Weegie

Members
  • Content Count

    75
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Weegie last won the day on April 27

Weegie had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

72 Excellent

About Weegie

  • Rank
    Guzzisti
  • Birthday July 11

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    98 Magni Australia, 92 Magni Sfida 1000, 99 Magni Sfida 1100
  • Location
    Scotland

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Almost anything with an engine, beer & books; not necessarly in that order

Recent Profile Visitors

138 profile views
  1. I'd agree to an extent but wouldn't quite go so far as to say the 1100 is horrible, I'd agree it's not nearly as nice a design as the Sfida 1000. I'm at odds with how Magni's take is horrid, compared with Guzzi's on the Sporti. The Guzzi version for the UK (and I think the US), where they junked the trapazoid headlight and installed the rectangular unit was even worse. I can remember my disappointment when I purchased an early Daytona and it had that setup compared to the trapazoid in the brochures I think the Sfida 1100i looks great with the fairing added when Magni produced the Giappone
  2. Well we are all different I guess, but nice though it is and has the advantage of modern forks etc: I much prefer the looks of the Magni
  3. docc, MartyNZ & Kiwi Roy (our resident electrical consultant) have nailed it I'm not sure about your running light statement and fail to understand it. On my computer the link to the wiring diagram is also broken. It's due to the rather Heath Robinson (if you know who he is) circuit that Guzzi used linking the circuit for the warning bulb, it's quite clever and works if you don't change anything but if you modify it, then strange things happen Everything will work with the warning light removed as you state. If you want to use LED indicators then you'll need to replace
  4. Pretty sure the additional ground would help and the earthing is a known weak point. As Phil said the reg/rec's job is to get rid of the additional energy. It will get hot, but that sounds to me like there is a problem and I'd be checking all my connections. At idle RPM the Alternator isn't going to be putting out a great deal of power, so I wouldn't have thought it should get so hot you can barely touch it. That said that's an ASS-umption I have not actually tested what sort of temps my reg/rec reaches when sitting at idle. Where's Roy when you need him?
  5. They look like bloody great resistors to me. Probably there to try to balance the load to (try) to keep the flash rate correct (as you already stated) and balance the circuit loads to keep the overall resistance (and thereby current flow) the same I dislike resistors they waste power and just get hot. However, that said, if they're already there and haven't melted anything, then I'd just keep them in. From the picture it looks reasonably neat so if it aint broke don't fix it. I do apologize I need to read the first post more thoroughly in future I was under the (mistaken) i
  6. Think we are more or less saying the same thing Marty. From Carl Allison's V11 wiring diagram it looks like the same setup as the Sportis and Daytona/Centauros. With the increased resistance of the LED indicator the Voltage will be held higher on the positive side of the selected indicator ciricuit. The voltage finds it more difficult to get to earth as the resistance has increased with the LEDs. The earth path for the whole circuit might then be (at least in part) through the turn warning bulb which is via the indicator circuit in the opposite side. The opposite side from sele
  7. I'll need to look at the circuit later but are you sure their resistors? They might be diodes, have they a silver stripe on one side alternatively resistors on their own might be enough to limit the current Couple of things First the dimm flashing on the opposite side sounds like either a poor earth on the side that's flashing so what's happening is the circuit is finding a way to earth through the other side. or Their might be something wierd going on in the wiring circuit. Anything done to the warning bulb on the dash? On the 1100 Sports and Daytonas Centauros Guzzi
  8. I'm no expert but what Phil stated is how I understand it too, the fire triangle, with the 3 elements coming together. I'm sceptical about "the not enough Oxygen/air in the tank to take place" hypothesis, AFAIK tanks are vented therefore anything above the fuel level could be an explosive mixture. Depends on the surface area, temperature and probably other variables, that would determine fuel evaporation rate. If that stays below a threshold then it's fine. There either there isn't enough air (when the tank is full) or there isn't enough vapour when the tank is nearer empty The risk
  9. Just curious as I may go down this route, I know Phil is also considering it and heard that Paul Daytona had recommended it (but can't remember where) Wondered if anybody had taken the plunge. I believe later bikes also went to a 10/60 recommendation
  10. Humm haven't been here in a while, echo Phil's post and agree If it's a 5 speeder I don't know they type of box installed to that particular model. The Sportis and HiCams had 5 speeders with the 3 dog clutch as opposed to the older 5 dog and they are pretty harsh on their internals. I thought all the V11s were 6 speeders shows what I know If it's strraight cut then it would probably whine in all gears, but 5th is a known weak link in the 3 dog 5 speed boxes (if it is such a thing) and is usually first to go. The first signs are it whines louder than the other gears. The usual remedy
  11. I did the same a you Cabernet on a Sporti based Magni, with the Magni the dash is difficult to read due to the Magni fairing. So I got a Harley dash and mounted Speedhuts. I had a spare Motogadget sensor lying around so got a mount made and installed the sensor. I then removed the speedo drive internals at the gearbox (which is of course different to the V11 but probably uses the same old speedo output and drive). Remember that second thrust washer which easily falls into the box and can do untold nastiness. I then just blanked it off with a plug like this https://www.ebay.co.uk
  12. Thank you docc Yeah, plugs out so its spinning close to idle speed. If it's anything like the old spring, the crank and idle pressure will be identical. I don't think many are that interested in the HiCam but I thought this thread might be worthwhile. The agony I've been through trying to understand this engine and the MGS (no I don't own one) changes etc have taken forever and were hard won (and I'm only in the twilight knowledge wise). I'm not that bright but luckily I lucked in when 1) Found Lucky Phil's HiCam thread 2) I'm taking advice from Phil on and off about where to g
  13. So ading to an old thread as it's in the same vein, Phil suggested using the Griso relief valve spring instead of the OEM item for the HiCams may up the pressure stopping the relief lifting early so I got me one of them Its obvious the Griso spring is shorter and heavier gauge. Checking the lift with a bicycle foot pump had the OEM lifting at 50 the Griso lifting at 70 psi, hopeful. Installed the Griso springed valve into the bike filled with oil and tried a crank test, plugs out and grounded. A little high for my liking, not sure where to go from here, perhaps a short idle
  14. You guys must be waaaaay to law abiding, something like that in the UK would either get stolen or spray painted over in a matter of hours There's a very good reason all the cameras are mounted on posts or are difficult to get at, even then it still doesn't stop some of them getting vandilised from time to time. Average speed cameras are probably the way most places will go where practical, unfortunately very effective unless the monitered detection length is known and if they have a few up it becomes just about impossible. Situation will only get worse as the prices of cameras c
  15. Ok @Lucky Phil that's handy to know, may try that or at least make sure my stock clearances are on the loose rather than the tigher side. I'd have thought that you'd want to transfer heat to the head from the valve as much as possible, the head surely is running a LOT cooler and the mass of the head will result in a higher thermal inertia, not to mention the oil in it and the airflow over it. Mind if it's hot in the first place the exhaust valves are going to have an even more difficult time................Sodium core valves anybody? Phil's bound to know all about them Your cams are Centa
×
×
  • Create New...