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Weegie last won the day on September 23 2020

Weegie had the most liked content!

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About Weegie

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  • Birthday July 11

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  • My bikes
    98 Magni Australia, 92 Magni Sfida 1000, 99 Magni Sfida 1100
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  • Interests
    Almost anything with an engine, beer & books; not necessarly in that order

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  1. So here is some rough oil pressure data I currently have running the bike on Motul 300V 15W 50 with the Griso spring in the PRV on the HiCam 20C 1200RPM 83psi 30C 1200RPM 81psi 40C 1200RPM 80psi 50C 1200RPM 79psi 58C 1200RPM 76psi 64C 1200RPM 63psi 64C 3000RPM 80psi 82C 1200RPM 40psi 82C 3000RPM 74psi 82C 4000RPM 76psi 90C 1200RPM 32psi 90C 3000RPM 72psi I reckon that bike will normally run at least a 90C oil temp under normal running and in order to get the pressure down a little at the colder oil temps I was wondering if it wo
  2. Don't trust her Pete, she's 2 timing you, I got the same offer If I had the energy anymore I'd take her up on the offer
  3. Forgive me docc "Two Nations divided by a common language"
  4. That's what I was thinking too, I don't know the Tonti frame's ins and out that well. With the Sfida which is Magni's take on the Tonti, there is a spacer and failing to install it or putting it in the wrong place does exactly that
  5. Are we talking 1100 Sport injection? When you undo the clips on the lines there will be some spillage, but anytime I've had the tank off on mine (and that's a lot) neither inlet (petcock side) to the system nor return (fuel regulator) needed anything special. Simply undo the jubilee clamps or whatever else is holding the lines onto the petcock and the regulator then pull them off Be prepared for fuel to run out the lines but it doesn't spray everywhere if that's what concerns you at least mine never has.
  6. I think I've now about reached the end of this but wanted to post some more prelim data for now and some more test results tomorrow. Who'd have thought I could spin out a 4 page thread on a bloody spring. So here's what I've found as a rough guide regarding shimming the OEM valve with the Griso spring. Below are 2 results, the first colum is static test data. In other words putting the valve in an oil tester or pumping up the valve on oil, if you use air the results will be different, probably lower from what I saw. I gave up on using air as a medium the leakage was so bad I co
  7. Thanks Tim Looking at some of the comparisons, I think the valve in the bike as of now isn't as good as when I conducted the first test. Whether this is because this valve isn't preloaded (allowing some, or more, float), because the PRV clearances aren't as good or something to do with the lower setpoint I don't know. Hopefully I shall find out when I change the oil and replace the current valve with the TLM valve and Griso spring (still awaiting the new spring to arrive) which I will preload to 2 or 3mm. The idea being to mess with the valve internals as little as possible Look
  8. I hear you Phil on the fairing, problem is that the Belly Pan helps to provide rigidity to the fairing. Might be an idea though to run some comparison tests with and without to see if there is any difference
  9. Apologies Phil It's running Motul 300V 15/50 full synth. All tests have been conducted on that oil, so differing results have nothing to do with changes to the lubricant. Yes at the moment it's running the 1100 Sport PRV no spacer, Griso spring. The 1100 sport valve is the same part as the OEM HiCam engine's valve, the only difference is the spring, which of course is changed out for the Griso. I have another valve from TLM and awaiting a Griso spring for it. When that arrives I plan to douse the valve in oil and change to the Griso spring adding a 3mm, or 3mm with a 1mm spacer
  10. So couple of data points first a long boring video showing the results. Pressure is still a little low but I wonder if the pressure at the gauge is the same as what's at the crank, possibly a little higher at the crank. As the 2 valves run at this sort of pressure too I suppose it's nothing too much to worry about. Certainly better than in the 40s which I reckon the OEM will give you. Oh that Staining/drips on the tiles is some small leaks where the cans mate to the pipes, and the drips are water. There was another small oil leak from a rocker I reckon now fixed I'm
  11. Ok thanks Phil that's really what I thought. Cheap reg to run with it about £20-30, plan to use 2 tanks I think (the beer cans) with a line between them to hold level, so not too bad It was just a drip about every 30 seconds or so wouldn't have affected the running but made a mess inside the Oz fairing, after a while. Pretty sure it was that rocker gasket that was missing, nothing above it and there were tell tales drips on the rocket cap screws at the lowest point. Everything else was clean(ish). Had a spare so it's now on and ready to try again Nothing to worry about, Oh I'll add a
  12. Yeah it's an idea I do have 2x5 litre empty (a long time ago) beer cans. I'd need to do a little math though on what the rate is, I'm assuming the return is more that the bike drinks by some way so if it's returning a lot, running time could be limited, I could connect the tanks together using a line to balance them I'm assuming that the tank regulator back pressures the system and reduce the flow. I don't have a curve for the Bosch OEM on the bike, but a replacment Pierburg (IF it's characteristics are similar) is flowing about 100-110 litres per hour at 3 bar. With no regulato
  13. No not on the HiCam @docc that engine has an external fuel pump (located at the head of the frame) In tank pumps were later Oh may have found the leak anyway, a PO had installed 2/3rd of the left rocker cover gasket, he decided to save weight an leave 1/3rd out, that looked like where the leak was eminating from but not 100%, I'll only find out when I re-run it. I'd still like to have a method of using a temp tank, as it's a handy tool to have
  14. I've got an oil leak on a HiCam but where I've got no clue The easiest way to find it (& It's a good idea anyway for temporary use when testing) is to make a temporary tank/vessel to use a temporay feed. Ths would allow me max access to the engine and possibly see where the leak might be However being an injected bike I'll need to have a line into the temp tank for the return line So could I just run the line on the return into the temporary tank or do I need to rig up some sort of regulator to back pressure the system? I'm thinking I'll probably need something and wondering
  15. I got a lot of stick on WildGoose for saying the Daytona front forks were nigh on useless. It was a shame and a huge mistake by Guzzi to intorduce a new frame design with crap forks. I'm sure a lot of people thought the frame was at fault. Of course in typical Guzzi fashion, the stable door was closed, they were replaced with WP units, long after the horse had bolted. Anyway, when the BEARS racing was happening the few brave enough to enter a Guzzi Daytona, usually changed to GSXR forks, it's a road that's been well travelled and repeated by many owners, I'm ASS-uming the Sporti wears the
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