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Weegie

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Weegie last won the day on September 23 2020

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About Weegie

  • Birthday July 11

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  • My bikes
    98 Magni Australia, 92 Magni Sfida 1000, 99 Magni Sfida 1100
  • Location
    Scotland

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  • Interests
    Almost anything with an engine, beer & books; not necessarly in that order

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  1. Phil is spot on, you'll find some misleading info, not only in the manual, but on my Sporti and HiCam bikes the wiring is different The best way is to check it as suggested or at least confirm wiring colours. I "think" on the Sport it's the outside wires, on the HiCam it's one of the outsdie wires and the middle, adjacent to each other. Loving @po18guy s setup very nice. Being the cheap and lazy sod I am I use a paper clip up the back of the plug to read the voltage
  2. You've got all the "gen" from minds better than mine. I'd drop the pan and check the filter and gaskets as suggested then put a gauge on it that @Scud has kindly offered a loan of. One of the reasons I love Guzzi ownership, I can't think of more generous crowd willing to help strangers out with insight or special tools etc: etc: When checking the pressure after the pan's been re-enstated, I'd remove the plugs (to reduce bearing load and help it spin faster) and pull the injection relay to stop the fuel pump and the coils being energised. Turn it over on the starter, in several 4 or 5 second bursts. It'll take a 10-15 seconds or so for the supply to prime then you should see the pressure shoot up on the gauge to somewhere between 50-60psi.
  3. Ok do you have Will's email? I'll drop it to you on a PM You could then ask him directly for the full story in more depth if that's what you need
  4. Will sells EEPROMs for the 1100 Sporti, the HiCam engined bikes (Daytonas & Cnetauros) and possibly more I don't know Chuck stated how Will came into possesion of the map early in the thread and it speaks volumes (to me anyway), I have one now installed in my HiCam and think it's an improvement in overall engine response and behaviour. I cannot give you specifics, but I think @Lucky Phil has actually looked at the map, so he might be able to provide some detail on the inner workings of what was changed in Will's map
  5. That would work too @docc As far as charging I haven't got a V11 let alone a manual, but is the system the single phase Ducati setup like the Sporti? It should be easy enough to check the whole alternator by conducting an open circuit test disconnecting the yellow wires going from the generator to the RR. Start the bike then measure AC Voltage across the wires. Rev it to 3k or so and you should be seeing 40V AC or something in that order. Checking stator or rotor continuity is usually resisitance checks, personally I'd start with the Open Circuit check, then if that's not good move to the individual components. Often on a lot of bikes these wires feeding the RR are either sized a bit marginal or their associated connectors and the wires or the connectors are damaged, on some Ducatis it was a known issue. Looking at the Sport's manual, it shows the connections to the RR is via 2 jack/bannana plugs, I remember on the Sport these could be pulled apart pretty easily, way too easily for my liking. Can't remember what I did, but I did bodge a fix I vaguely recall shrink wrap, to make sure they didn't come apart. I know not very elegant (but way better than electrical tape), but it's worked so far. r.p.m. 1000 3000 6000A.C. volts 15 40 80 That's the AC volts from the Sporti manual, but don't know if the V11 has the same set up or not. Another interesting piece of mumbo jumbo imparted to me by @Kiwi_Roy was the RR on the Sport was a series type and not the more common shunt, a few guys though have installed shunt regulators and reported that they run fine. You're probably well aware, so my apologies in advance, but before doing system checks, like the voltage output from the RR, make sure the battery is fully charged. Low battery volts (or indeed a duff or dying battery) can pull the system volts down. The battery is like a reservoir or accumulator so it's voltage will have a pronounced effect on the system. If the battery is dodgy get or borrow another battery from elesewhere while doing the checks. The change in font is bacause I pulled stuff off the Sport manual
  6. Looking quickly at the wiring diagram I'd think something is wrong between Hi Beam and the warn. Does the Lo Beam work Ok? The Hi Beam warn is simply tied to the Hi Beam feed but after that there's a 4 way AMP connector. If the Hi Beam warn is on all the time, accrding to the diagram then you've got a continuous feed to the Hi Beam, that should only happen with Lo Beam energized if the passing button is pressed on the switch Anyway I've made a couple of harnesses but never for a bike with an ECU, it's perfectly feasible, but would be a lot more involve a bit more work. I'd be tempted to split it into 3 separate looms, ECU & ancillaries, Charge Circuit & then everything else. Contacted Gregg Bender? He doesn't do a harness for the V11 but he might offer some advice or build a custom loom, probably won't be cheap though
  7. Funny I had her out today, running well, she developed a misfire at one point but it cleared Oil pressure in clear air 58-62psi although I was seeing 70 on ocassions. Only problem with the engine is traffic and I hit the most horrific jams on the way home. Oil pressure light then flickers at idle around 8psi pressure. It's due to the temp skyrocketing, was 130C when I checked it once back at the house. Going to try installing a larger oil cooler in the Winter, but when on the open road it's a fantastic bike all round and that engine just loves to rev.
  8. AFAIK all the fuel warning lamps work the same way on nearly all Guzzis of this era It's a thermistor, so the resistance lowers with increasing temperature, which is mounted in series with the lamp. When the thermistor is covered by fuel it's kept sufficiently cool by the surrounding fuel (its in a metal jacket). This keeps the resistance high enough to stop the lamp lighting When the level drops, the thermistor gradually gets uncovered, the resistance drops and current can pass through the lamp. That's why the lamp initially starts to glow, it will become brighter the more of the thermistor gets uncovered and it gets hotter resistance dropping further. However because the thermistor is passing current self heating also takes place. So (I see LowRyter has beat me to it) it will become brighter as level drops, but personally I'd never rely on it and I too use the odometer. They are also quite fragile and can be irreparibly damaged by connecting, I think it's the electric petcock on some bikes to it by mistake. The one on my Sporti is "tits up" and they are expensive to replace, if you can even find them
  9. Discalimer I don't own a V11 so can only go by the wiring diagram When you hit the starter does it turn? That would rule out the side stand switch, the kill switch and the clutch switch. It appears from the wiring diagram that the clutch needs to be pulled in before the starter will operate, which is a little odd If everything fine there ensure voltage on fuses 1 & 2, both sides, these feed the ECU and Injection Relays. Without either of them working the bike is going nowhere. It might also be worthwhile checking fuse 8 as it operates the electric petcock Pull all the relays inspect then reinsert, just to make sure none are damaged or have become dislodged in the tip over. Then swap over the Injection and ECU relay with another 2 on the bike, or better still spares if you have them. I think the V11 is an In Tank pump, if all of that proves fruitless, I'd pull the pump and filter assembly from the tank, as something may have got dislodged in the fall and check it. With the pump assembly still removed but electrically connected I'd turn on the ignition, but just for a second to so to ascertain the pump turns. Don't run the pump for more than a second or so out the tank as it could damage it. Real V11 owners will be along soon with real understanding of the model, my own knowledge is somewhat limited (I own models somewhat akin but not identical), and confirm or deny my steps
  10. No problem, I haven't checked the latest info but looking at an old Odyssey catalogue it states a fully charged battery will have a Open circuit voltage of 12.85 or higher at 25C so I don't think you've anything to be concerned about
  11. Pretty sure 13V is fine normally the charging volts are in the region of 13.5 or higher, this is off the top of my head, but I would not be concerned about that in the least. Have you looked at the Odyssey charging thread yet...................it goes into more detail than you'd ever EVER want to know about all things Odyssey
  12. A form has only normally open contacts C form has normally open and normally closed contacts. I think it may have been @docc who posted on this somewhere here. The A form can be used on 2 or 3 locations but some of the relays use the normally closed contacts. So you can replace some but not all with the A form. The downside to this is not all the relays become interchangeable Looking at Carl Allison's wiring diagram for a V11 ECU, Headlight, Sidestand and Injection relay A form is suitable The Starter Relay requires C form Given the Injection Relay and possibly the ECU and Headlight relays seem to be loaded highest I would purchase A form for the locations that are suitable and use whatever else I could get for the other location. At least that's what I'd do and consider it an upgrade, using something like the Panasonic relay for the other one Let somebody else confirm that though EDITED I INITIALLY GOT THIS A BIT WRONG NOW CORRECTED
  13. The mirrors installed on the Sfidas are different spacing, so unsure if this applies to the Sport or not. I certainly had similar problems on an early Daytona with stock OEM mirrors The mirrors used on the Sfida and Australia are Vitaloni and the biggest problem with them drooping at speed is due to the ball joint nearest the fairing, there are two, one at the fairing and another where the shaft installs to the mirror head. I tried a damping grease but that didn't work, so after some googling and a look at the mirrors. The ball joint nearest the fairing consists of a plastic ball with a large hole in the middle, a cup on the mirror shaft with a threaded section in the center and another metal ball which has a hollow shaft up the center. The metal ball with the hollow shaft sits into the plastic ball, that in turn mates to the cup on the mirror shaft. The whole lot is held together by a phillips screw. The main problem seems to be that the hollow shaft bottoms on the inside of the cup of the mirror shaft it's there to allow the correct spacing and prevent overtightening of the screw, I think. Grinding the hollow shaft down to make it shorter allows the screw to be tightened a little more, increasing the clamping force. Roughing up the cup and ball and a split washer on the screw to prevent it loosening off also help I managed to get mine a bit tighter, but it's a horrible piece of design and would still probably loosen off over time. Although I don't really like the look of the barend I have installed on the 3 bikes, I'm just going to have to stick with it for now as at least I can see behind me and know it will stay put.
  14. I don't own a V11, but looking at the wiring diagram and assuming all the usual stupid shit has been checked, it's not the sidestand or kill switch as the starter is locked out AFAIK. I'd start by swapping over the fuel pump relay and possibly the ECU relay with others to see if anything changes, I'd also listen to hear if I could hear the relays trying to pickup. Check for voltage on fuse 2 (feeds the injection relay) on both sides. Also check voltage at fuse 1 (feeds the ECU relay) If either of them are not picking or getting power then you got no spark and no fuel. Just a first guess, but others who know more will chime in I'm sure
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