Jump to content

Weegie

Members
  • Posts

    373
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Weegie last won the day on August 18 2021

Weegie had the most liked content!

About Weegie

  • Birthday July 11

Profile Information

  • Location
    Scotland
  • My bike(s)
    98 Magni Australia, 92 Magni Sfida 1000, 99 Magni Sfida 1100, 2017 BMW R9T Racer

Recent Profile Visitors

1,893 profile views

Weegie's Achievements

Forum-aholic

Forum-aholic (3/5)

484

Reputation

  1. Great stuff Phil I'm guessing this is for a another HiCam build, which I'll be following avidly (stalking???) It will be interesting to see what differences result from all the modifications on the "HiCam II" over the engine that's now in your Greenie Thanks for informing us of the latest and greatest from Joe, I do need to drop him a line at some point. One more thing, where did you source the MGS jackshaft from as it would an intersting upgrade to my HiCam? John
  2. Agree I tried to measure crankcase pressure on the Sporti when I was having blow-by problems (which were due to the bores being outwith spec from when they left the factory, but that's another story). It fluctuates, obviously with piston movement so cycles every revolution, but I wouldn't think it was any greater than a couple of inches of water gauge overall. Might see more if you placed a high speed transducer to read the pressure peaks. That said rubber hose will (at least partially) absorb these peaks and as @audiomick pointed out the system is open to atmosphere on the frame Here's some idea of the amount of air that's being moved
  3. I'm with Phil IMHO far too much navel gazing regarding oil level in the sump I ASS-ume it's a Broadsump, although I don't own a V11 I have 2 Broadsump bikes, a Sporti and HiCam (Daytona engine). I've got Roper plates in both and fill to just below the plate and never had any issues, that's well above the high mark on the stick. I find the dipstick a PIA I can never read it reliably, but that could be me. Volumes quoted for sump levels are as @GuzziMoto stated are based on a dry engine, which will never be the case on an oil change, so sump levels/dipstick markers are a better indicator I'm not saying "do what I do" or that it's correct, just it's perhaps not quite as critical as some folks make out
  4. Not in my extensive archive of images of bodged attempts at spannering/wrenching and unsuitable for children and those of a nervous disposition I'll see if I can get some pictures later but kind of difficult what with all the other paraphernalia Guzzi managed to insert in there
  5. With the Sporti I used 2 silicone elbows and an alloy tube for the main breather from the engine to the frame. Silicone isn't recommended for oil, but when I asked the supplier he stated that for a breather it would probably be Ok and so far no problems. Just saying that if obtaining the part is too difficult or expensive, it's not beyond the wit of man to fabricate something. Pretty sure compatible material elbows are available
  6. Just to add to Pete, from my travails with the HiCam @Lucky Phil should get most if not all of the credit in helping me to at least have an understanding of the issues. The 'C' kit cams are the reason that my bike runs hot, this isn't a problem above 40mph where sump temps are stable around 100C and oil pressure doesn't drop below 60psi. However at slow speed, in traffic or extended idling will lead to high oil temps and decaying pressures as the oil thins, once above 110C it goes downhill fast (that's running a 10/60 oil). Did @Paul Minnaert not also have cooling issues? I think he went to a Vee sump and then also added a cooler, but I don't know if he had 'C' kit cams nor what other mods were completed to that engine Very few bikes have the 'C' cams, only the Daytona RS engines and due to US emission regs the RS models supplied to America didn't get the 'C' cams either. All the Centis have the standard cams. As far as deleting the cooler, I'd agree that it certainly wouldn't be something I'd consider even on a Centi or 'B' kitted Daytona (that said the Dr John's were 'B' kitted and didn't have a cooler). The Guzzi design for the oil cooler on the Daytona broadsumps, Centis and Sportis isn't particularly good IMHO. The hoses to and from the cooler use banjos both at the engine and cooler and on both inlet and return, this incurs a pressure drop penalty and lower flow through the cooler. I installed a considerably smaller cooler onto the Australia (it was all I could find that would fit) than the OEM, but used full flow fittings and when I tested it and the OEM back to back the smaller cooler performed better by 3-4 degC. I've got a slightly larger one to install this year, space is the biggest problem with installing a different cooler to the Australia. Apologies for drfting off topic, might help Centi or Daytona owners I know nothing of the V11 4v/v engines John
  7. Couldn't see it in the manuals I referenced. The procedure laid out for the Daytona etc: in the manual starts with checking the TPS before moving to vacuum balance on the TBs. The Sporti as I recall has a different TPS but the procedure in the manual is the same
  8. I looked in the workshop manuals for the early Daytona and a later one covering the Daytona RS/Centauro/Sporti In the injection chapter both of them quote the 150mV +/- 15mV docc. Perhaps the US manuals are different but the statement is present in the copies I have, the +/- 15mV equating to a tolerance.
  9. Can I ask which ECU we're discussing here? I'm going to reset the TPS and then do a throttle body balance on the Australia later this year, Hi Cam engine like the Daytona & 16M ECU. Anybody care to comment if there would be any benefit in setting my TPS to 157mV per Meinolf recommendations?
  10. Looking at these pics above, interesting that the Tacho is sitting at 1500 RPM. I've got a pair of Speedhuts on the Sporti and when I switch off the bike the tacho will drop to exactly the same position. When I cycle the ignition switch the tacho then drops to zero. I always thought it was something unique to my bike, or something stupid I'd managed when hooking them up
  11. Surprised nobody has mentioned this guy, re understanding oil https://www.youtube.com/@LubricationExplained IMHO calm rational explanations in many areas He has had the Lake Speed guy on one of his videos (Arrrgh) I have had issues and changed lubrication grades and suppliers of liquid gold a few times with the HiCam engine. No clue if it will increase engine longevity, but from monitoring pressure and temperature I do know it makes a difference.
  12. AFAIK the V11 is a 6 speed box, mechanical drive speedo, electrical tacho I think (the nearest bike I've got is a Sporti, but that's a 5 speeder) Most gear indicators need electrical pulse signals, so you'd need to have something that would generate a pulse signal that vairied with speed. I used a pickup registering off the rear disc bolts and got some guys at my tame machine shop to make me a carrier to mount it, that was for a replacement speedo for the sporti. You'll probably get the "you shouldn't be riding if you don't know what gear your in" or the "can't you count" or "you don't need one just go up or down depending on revs" Ignore them, with my 5 speed bikes I don't really need an indicator, but find it's easy to get confused with a 6 speed box and I'm glad I've got one on the BMW R9T
  13. That confirms it, I know of the Griso Ghetto but never having ridden any of dem new fangled Guzzis I never bothered joining Perhaps you're right and I've got a half brother lurking somewhere, that's a scary thought (even for me)
  14. Me? I only know how to plug in GuzziDiag to do basic checks and know even less about maps
×
×
  • Create New...