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Everything posted by Weegie

  1. My Sporti has the straight cut gearbox, which is generally considered a curse. I love the sound it makes though, at times it's louder than the engine. I've been through the box and everything is good, so far, it's just the noise it makes. As Phil said, sounds to me like he's off the throttle and the gears are running on the other face, if I was a gambling man, I'd put my money on the gearbox. The Sporti also has Joe's gears they don't (to my ear anyway) make anything like that sort of din
  2. I'd never heard of a 2v/v engine failing to prime and never had to prime one, even on a dry engine after rebuilds. After 5 seconds or so (if the oil filter is prefilled) I've always seen pressure. It would be interesting to know if somebody has actually experienced this just out of interest The HiCams on the other hand are a completely different kettle of fish
  3. I have no clue, but as @Scud said you've got to try to narrow down when the rattle is occuring. It doesn't sound like clutch plates to me, but I don't own a V11 and basing my experience on earlier bikes
  4. Ouch!! Oh and just to shadow @docc reply, the Magni Sporti is a little different in it's drive shaft set up, but ocassionally if I've buggered up there I sometimes get a noise from it, more of click than a rattle but I hear it irrespective of clutch engagement. Apologies if you know all this and these answers are blindingly obvious, but I don't know how well you know the bike. I don't know the 6 speed box as all my bikes have the ancient 5 speed. If it was me I'd try to eliminate the obvious prior to tearing it apart, especially as it's the "summer" (although up here in Jockland you'd never know it)
  5. Clutch plates rattling? If so absolutely nothing to worry about. Ducatis clutches are pretty noisy, but they use many more plates
  6. I just hope @p6x doesn't ask about a gear indicator Phil's comment on a pressure gauge at your knee, raised a wry smile, my R9T has just that & to read the dipstick temp on the Guzzis similarly requires me to look down to read it, with the Australia I need to get off the bike. Although not 100% certain, I don't believe BMW provide any form of warning on loss of oil pressure on these bikes, not even a light, so I installed a gauge. I only glance at these gauges ocassionally, as and when it's safe to do so. That either confirms or rebutts what I'm guessing might be occuring. I find it reassuring and can concentrate on the ride, rather than the lingering nagging doubt in the back of my mind, but I'm paranoid. IMHO it's personal choice there isn't a right or wrong answer, I understand and agree with some of the arguments against. I could also make a reasonable case to counter some of these arguments but I really cannot be arsed.
  7. A little harsh Pete, but you've always called it as you see it and you've forgot more than I'll ever know when it comes to these engines (or engines in general come to that) I agree to an extent but as I've got a dipstick temp gauge on all my engines (laughed at by most as a useless farkle). I use it especially with the HiCam. It's less useful on a 2v/v headed bike (my experience is they're more robust) and personally think a pressure gauge is of more use (but I have them installed as well). I tend to glance at mine on the Sporti when caught in unavoidable traffic queues and want to know how long (or how far) I'm going to get before I need to pull over and stop. Once sump temp goes over 120C your close to reaching the limit, although the HiCam can go as high as 130C, the oil pressure is dropping through the floor by that time and definately time to pull over. That said on the Sporti it usually starts to loose power, once above 120 and you can feel the heat coming off it, even then the oil pressure is still holding up (told ya the 2 v/v bikes are more robust) When it comes down to it, it's personal choice, so if @p6x wants it why not? [moderator edit to correct the origin of the discussion: p6x] It's certainly not doing any harm, it helped me gain a rough idea of how a particular engine behaves under various conditions.
  8. It's what I'd take that to be, there's a temp sensor bolted onto one of the heads, I can't remember which one though
  9. Don't know the V11, so it may be different on the Sporti and HiCam turning them clockwise closes them resulting in less air, so it would richen the mixture. AFAIK they are marginal things anyway and won't have much effect on the mixture EXCEPT at idle where the engine isn't breathing much. I've always understood that they are just used to balance up the TBs at tickover in case it's off a bit after you balance the butterflies at higher RPMs. Sure somebody who knows the V11 and is more knowledgable than me will chip in to give you a definitive answer
  10. I believe Phil is referring to the intake manifolds that bolts onto the head, they are triangular and held by 3 cap screws. You'd remove them, think you'll need to purchase or make gaskets for them. Install the rubbers to the removed manifold, then install the TB assembly onto the other side of the intake rubbers. After that offer the whole thing up to head and bolt the manifolds into place Not sure if that explains it enough or not
  11. Not a biggie to replace them although they can be quite tough to get off and on. Don't need to remove the tank, but the way I've did it in the past is to pull the whole TB assembly back, so you may not have enough room without removing the airbox. Then it's a bugger to try to get the TB assembly back on Grease would help getting them off, personally I wouldn't use grease putting them back on as you don't want them to move and rely on the friction to hold them in place. You could use something that will evaporate over time to ease them on. Just what I've done not saying it's the recommended method, lets see if others chime in
  12. You guys could well be correct, but I'd be surprised. The Sprint's look similar to K&Ns & many, many have installed them to Sports and Daytonas without any remapping being required, despite all the dire warnings I see on the forums that the bike will run like crap. Granted you might lose a "hoss" or two, but anectodally I've not heard of anybody I know personally who installed them and had any issues. Different engine but in an article over on the COG forum on tuning, one owner found the stock airbox restrictive By all means try placing the stock filter back on as it's not a huge amount of work to test it, I'm interested to see if that's the problem. Quite happy to be proved wrong, every day being a school day and all that
  13. Hi Pete My Sporti engined bike actually has a MyECU installed by a previous owner However I'm running Guzzidiag V0.60 on the HiCam engine (Daytona RS engine) which is also 16M AFAIK I started up the laptop to be sure and Guzzidiag tells me the ECU selected is the 16M, so perhaps I'm not losing my mind after all Understand why as the site doesn't make mention of the 16M being supported It's either that or I'm needing medical attention
  14. I've got a Magni with 1100 sporti engine so it's a bit different, but I'd check the air temp, air pressure, cylinder head temp and TPS sensors are all plugged in and registering. GuzziDiag could be helpful here as it shows what the sensor values are. When you say running like crap, what exactly do you mean, misfire, lack of power, not idling?
  15. @Tomchri is in probably the most advanced country along that road in Europe with a large number wind turbines and a huge take up in electric vehicles. I know Norway isn't in the EU. As I recall if that's approved then all the countries in the block need to agree as each has a veto, so if it has gone through then Italy has agreed to it Just checked it's the end of sales of petrol and deisel vehicles by 2035 a different thing altogether and it has still to be ratified by individual countries lawyers and ministers, so not quite a done deal anyway. Germany is in for a lot of pain as it's huglely dependent on gas and even coal.
  16. I've been debating if I should purchase one of these Lithium minature jump start packs or the Super Capacitor version just in case. Could be attached to the lead from the battery to the starter, at the starter with the neg onto wherever on the engine or gearbox @Tomchri idea is a good one too, just make sure it's quite a beefy wire, I've used a wrench and a screwdriver in the past and the spark it makes on connection is impressive. Oh and stating the bleedin' obvious, FFS make sure the bike's in neutral by wheeling it to check, NEVER rely on "The gearbox is in the vicinty of neutral" warning light
  17. Workshop Manual V11 Sport, is the one I grabbed from the Piaggo website I think calling for 20/50 The 5/40 recommendation surprises me, but I'm just a average bodger who knows little about such esoterics
  18. I've never looked into the various viscosities in that amount of detail. As I only use the bikes in Spring/Summer/Autumn they never see an ambient below 10C (50F) so the low temp viscosities are academic and don't concern me The manual I have for the V11 states 20W/50, as do all the Guzzis of that era, I don't know if that changed in later V11 models. The only reason I'd run a 10W or below would to reduce wear on start up as it would circulate faster. However that needs to be balanced with warm up to operating temp and/or running temp, as some engines, dependent on ambient and other factors, may not reach 100C oil temp I came across a formula for interpolation of viscosites and it's far from perfect as it doesn't work so well with synthetics and multigrades, but it's better than nothing. Using it revealed some interesting results. When I changed from 15/50 to 10/60 around 20C the 10/60 is considerably more viscous than the 15/50 because of the higher viscosity index. So when the bike is cold on the 10/60 the oil is more viscous One more thing on viscosity is not all manufacturers who have the same grades are equal, the Motul synthetic I was using prior to moving to Penrite was a bit thinner for the same quoted grade. If I was changing grade I'd at least put on a temporary gauge to get some idea of what's happening to the oil pressure. From my limited experience you don't need to run the engine hard to get a clue, as above 3k RPM there is little change in pressure. The Sporti PRV opens at 60psi and when I'm out in ambients between 12-25C the pressure at above 2k is always around there. With Zinc the Mobil levels are high, the Penrite is 0.124% by mass I'm assuming that's 1240 PPM & Phosphorus 1100 PPM . There was a thread on here where somebody called Motul to check (I think it was 300V but unsure) and it was considerably lower
  19. We're going a bit Off Topic from relays here, would it not be a better idea if you started a separate thread. [docc edit: Done! Thanks for the suggestion! ] Having a hot Hi Cam I've did a little delving into oils both viscosity grades and additives. The 2 I found that claim to have higher ZDDP were Pentrite and Royal Purple, both Australian oil manufacturers, I've no clue why. Currently I'm running the HiCam on 10/60 Full Synth Penrite. I've yet to get any meaningful mileage to evaluate it though. I've seen people stating Guzzi brought out a technical that the previously recommended 20/50 should go to 10/60, but on my Sporti I find that the bike runs fine on 15/50 (so a 20/50 would likewise be Ok). Purely anectodal, but I think the 2 V/V bikes don't require 10/60, they hold pressure fine on 20/50. The 4V/V bikes like the HiCam may benefit from 10/60 if they run hot. That's for the ambients in the UK, if you ride in high ambients then a 10/60 may be worthwhile. What little data I've gathered is from having a sump oil temp dipstick and a pressure gauge. You're quite correct though air cooled bikes will be more susceptable to changes in ambients, in the Ducati manual for my 1098 (a watercooled engine) it referenced a range of acceptable viscosity grades that could be used dependent on the ambient range. No clue if that helps or not.
  20. Weegie


    I found getting anything near a reliable reading next to impossible, especially with the Roper plate in situ which can catch the dipstick. I followed Phil's advice on my HiCam and Sporti (the V11 broadsump should be the same) and "overfilled" to just below the level of the Roper Plate which you can see by looking through the dipstick hole. This works a treat for me and I have not experienced any problems with pressurization
  21. Just a note of caution on LiFe batteries. They may be fine in fact I've got one in a Sporti, but be aware these batteries have lower internal resistance and can absorb and discharge higher currents. This could lead to problems with the Reg/Rec on older bikes. The Ducati forums were full of guys installing them and then having problems, some more serious than others. I can't remember off the top of my head but their charging regime is slightly different too. You can charge them with a conventional charger usually, but any de-sulphation cycle on the charger must be disabled. Some now have balance circuitry and overvoltage protection built in others not. If the battery doesn't self balance then a balance charge should be conducted ocassionally. Over the winter they are best stored at 80% charge, this doesn't mean 80% voltage, you need to get the relevant chart off the manufacturer Although I've had no problems with mine, I'm just pointing out some of the differences. If I had the Shindengen 847 like @Tomchri I'd have no hesitation in using one. They can be great, light, small, faster charging, long life and lots of cold cranking power (except in cold conditions) but just be aware that there are differences in the technology John
  22. Perhaps, I'm still running the original in my HiCam and would still be using the original in the Sporti if the Fekin spigot hadn't broken off, the pump was fine Spare might be a good idea I suppose
  23. Fuel Pump specification From the Sport 1100 manual (I think all the systems on this vintage are identical). The pump operates at 100 l/hr at 3 bar, this is what the system runs at and is an industry standard. There are other standard pressures too but Guzzi run at the 3 bar. The pump is overpressure protected at 5 bar, via the discharge feeding back to the inlet. The pump has a non return valve to prevent the system draining down through the pump when it's switched off. Pierburg #7.21565.70.0. This pump is almost completely identical in every way to the specifications of the Weber PI-021 which was originally supplied, some folks state their pump was PI-121, I have no idea of the differences between the 2. The Pierburg has overpressure protection and a check valve to maintain system pressure like the original. Physically the pump is a bit different. It is thinner but comes with a rubber isolating sleeve which will allow fitment to the original bracket. Likewise the inlet has a 12mm barb suitable for installation of the existing inlet hose. The outlet is different. The model quoted here comes with a female threaded M10x1.0 connection. The pump is supplied with 2 adapters which fit into that connection. These are an M12 and an M14 both 1.5 pitch banjo connections. I found a 12mm banjo to 8mm barb off E-Bay that should allow me to install the original hose, with a little bit of rerouting. I chose to go this way as I broke off the original plastic outlet which had welded itself to the hose, there is a cheaper direct Pierburg replacement. That model is the 7.21287.53.0. This has a plastic high pressure end but instead of the threaded outlet, it comes with an 8mm barb so should slot straight in That's very old info from Guzzitech, it's my research so I'm not ripping off the info I was forced to go down that route before the cheaper pump quoted became available. The Pierburg is significantly more expensive, I thought I'd post it up anyway............never have too little info. Pretty sure the V11 with external pump will be identical as would the HiCams as well as the Sports.
  24. I think the reason Euro Moto Electrics don't like AGM batteries is because they have a lower internal resistance, so can accept or feed larger currents than convnetional lead acid batteries. Roadster Cycles supply Shindengen MOSFET reg/recs and I'm also a fan boy of their products. Ducati owners love the Shindengen reg/recs @Kiwi_Roy is required to back me up here or correct me, as he's IMHO the most knowledgable guy on here when it comes to electrics. I think V11s have the Ducati Reg/Rec and have a recollection that Roy told me they're series regulators, which is a little unusual, nearly all regualtors are shunt type. After saying that a few guys on WG installed Shindengen shunt regulators to replace the OEM Ducati regulator and stated they worked fine. The most common Shindengen FH020AA, is a 3 phase shunt, the alternator on the V11 is a single phase alternator. This means that only one of the available phases on the Shindengen can be used, which will reduce the power rating it's capable of supporting. Should you choose to go Shindengen I'd check with Jack at Roadster Cycle that the Reg/Rec is capable of supporting the output of the Ducati Alternator. It is the way I intend go on my HiCam or Sport if required, I don't own a V11 but I really like Shindengen and I'm not a huge fan of Euro Moto Electrics One more thing there are a whole slew of knock off (Chinese mostly) FH020AA reg/recs on E-Bay and elsewhere, up to you if you use one, but don't be fooled into thinking they're the real deal.
  25. Perhaps I've got my wires crossed, but warranty might be a reason, the main thing I reckon is cost and ease of install, if we are referring to the RapidBike EVO. For newer models it comes complete with harness and is plug & pray play. The module covers lots of different manufacturers and models, just like Power Commander. A completely new ECU is going to be more expensive and then adds the complexity of mapping, or getting the old map into the new ECU. If you're asking why it's offered as an add on for a V11, then I've no idea.
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