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Everything posted by Weegie

  1. I think I've now about reached the end of this but wanted to post some more prelim data for now and some more test results tomorrow. Who'd have thought I could spin out a 4 page thread on a bloody spring. So here's what I've found as a rough guide regarding shimming the OEM valve with the Griso spring. Below are 2 results, the first colum is static test data. In other words putting the valve in an oil tester or pumping up the valve on oil, if you use air the results will be different, probably lower from what I saw. I gave up on using air as a medium the leakage was so bad I co
  2. Thanks Tim Looking at some of the comparisons, I think the valve in the bike as of now isn't as good as when I conducted the first test. Whether this is because this valve isn't preloaded (allowing some, or more, float), because the PRV clearances aren't as good or something to do with the lower setpoint I don't know. Hopefully I shall find out when I change the oil and replace the current valve with the TLM valve and Griso spring (still awaiting the new spring to arrive) which I will preload to 2 or 3mm. The idea being to mess with the valve internals as little as possible Look
  3. I hear you Phil on the fairing, problem is that the Belly Pan helps to provide rigidity to the fairing. Might be an idea though to run some comparison tests with and without to see if there is any difference
  4. Apologies Phil It's running Motul 300V 15/50 full synth. All tests have been conducted on that oil, so differing results have nothing to do with changes to the lubricant. Yes at the moment it's running the 1100 Sport PRV no spacer, Griso spring. The 1100 sport valve is the same part as the OEM HiCam engine's valve, the only difference is the spring, which of course is changed out for the Griso. I have another valve from TLM and awaiting a Griso spring for it. When that arrives I plan to douse the valve in oil and change to the Griso spring adding a 3mm, or 3mm with a 1mm spacer
  5. So couple of data points first a long boring video showing the results. Pressure is still a little low but I wonder if the pressure at the gauge is the same as what's at the crank, possibly a little higher at the crank. As the 2 valves run at this sort of pressure too I suppose it's nothing too much to worry about. Certainly better than in the 40s which I reckon the OEM will give you. Oh that Staining/drips on the tiles is some small leaks where the cans mate to the pipes, and the drips are water. There was another small oil leak from a rocker I reckon now fixed I'm
  6. Ok thanks Phil that's really what I thought. Cheap reg to run with it about £20-30, plan to use 2 tanks I think (the beer cans) with a line between them to hold level, so not too bad It was just a drip about every 30 seconds or so wouldn't have affected the running but made a mess inside the Oz fairing, after a while. Pretty sure it was that rocker gasket that was missing, nothing above it and there were tell tales drips on the rocket cap screws at the lowest point. Everything else was clean(ish). Had a spare so it's now on and ready to try again Nothing to worry about, Oh I'll add a
  7. Yeah it's an idea I do have 2x5 litre empty (a long time ago) beer cans. I'd need to do a little math though on what the rate is, I'm assuming the return is more that the bike drinks by some way so if it's returning a lot, running time could be limited, I could connect the tanks together using a line to balance them I'm assuming that the tank regulator back pressures the system and reduce the flow. I don't have a curve for the Bosch OEM on the bike, but a replacment Pierburg (IF it's characteristics are similar) is flowing about 100-110 litres per hour at 3 bar. With no regulato
  8. No not on the HiCam @docc that engine has an external fuel pump (located at the head of the frame) In tank pumps were later Oh may have found the leak anyway, a PO had installed 2/3rd of the left rocker cover gasket, he decided to save weight an leave 1/3rd out, that looked like where the leak was eminating from but not 100%, I'll only find out when I re-run it. I'd still like to have a method of using a temp tank, as it's a handy tool to have
  9. I've got an oil leak on a HiCam but where I've got no clue The easiest way to find it (& It's a good idea anyway for temporary use when testing) is to make a temporary tank/vessel to use a temporay feed. Ths would allow me max access to the engine and possibly see where the leak might be However being an injected bike I'll need to have a line into the temp tank for the return line So could I just run the line on the return into the temporary tank or do I need to rig up some sort of regulator to back pressure the system? I'm thinking I'll probably need something and wondering
  10. I got a lot of stick on WildGoose for saying the Daytona front forks were nigh on useless. It was a shame and a huge mistake by Guzzi to intorduce a new frame design with crap forks. I'm sure a lot of people thought the frame was at fault. Of course in typical Guzzi fashion, the stable door was closed, they were replaced with WP units, long after the horse had bolted. Anyway, when the BEARS racing was happening the few brave enough to enter a Guzzi Daytona, usually changed to GSXR forks, it's a road that's been well travelled and repeated by many owners, I'm ASS-uming the Sporti wears the
  11. Well bet you were all thinking this was dead and gone. So after removing my OEM V/V with Griso spring to try to lower the presssure a little I then couldn't get the valve to seal well again. I purchased an HMB valve and tried that but although I did get static tests that looked great whenever I put it in the engine I just never got the pressure I was expecting. The only explanation I can think of for differences I experienced between static and engine testing, is that oil pressure in the bike is constantly fluctuating probably at quite a high frequency so the valve is constantly cha
  12. Count me in!! Me..............all the gear and no idea. If I wasn't so dammed old and had other shit to do I'd be building a Guareschi as well and it still might happen. Of course throwing my aging corpse into the saddle might be another issue
  13. Thanks Phil Here was me labouring under the misapprehension that the temperature viscosity relationship was linear, which it clearly is not From that graph it appears that after 70C and certainly after 80, a temperature approaching normal running condition, that the viscosity changes are pretty much negligable Very interesting
  14. I did mean to comment on this Phil, as I'm seriously considering both The Griso spring will help to hold the pressure as the bike comes up to temperature and eliminate some (but not all) leakage. However when the engine's hot, 80C+ oil temp the max I obtained at 4k RPM was 75psi. The relief is closed at running temperature and only oil weight will have any effect on pressure. 75psi is sufficient and I'd be more than happy enough with that (and continue to run my 15/50) IF the engine temperature stabilizes at 80C. A shakedown run will be the only way I can establish the true hot oil t
  15. Hi @Twin AH I've got some pictures of the teardown and install of the Caruso gear and pump change. At some point I've been hoping to a do a "how to" if that's what you're referring to, but it hasn't happened yet. I don't know of a single document or place where all the mods are listed and it all depends on how far you want to go. I'm sure Lucky Phil will chime in and he's the real expert. As far as the Griso spring change out, I'm the only person to have done it as far as I'm aware and the bike hasn't even been out on a shakedown run, although the results are encouraging. The p
  16. Oh @Kevin_T to also answer your question on why Guzzi didn't do it from the get go. I can only surmise, but Guzzi were not in a good way during the 90s and could barely keep their head above water, the situation getting worse as the 90s went on and into the early turn of the century. I think they were desperate to get a new model out and increase sales. The HiCam engine was not a well developed product, it was a race bike engine to which the minimal of changes were made to make it just about suitable as a road machine. There are many flaws in the design which were probably only reall
  17. Hi Kevin We did chat briefly on PM if remember correctly. It all seems so bloody obvious doesn't it when it's laid out and if I had listened to @Chuck I could have saved myself 2 years (or more) worth of fruitless grief & pain. He initially pointed me on the right road on WG a long time back. Like you I thought the problem was pump or leak releated. I started down this road for the reasons Phil pointed out on the post above yours, convinced the temp and pressure problems were related (the jury is still out on that). As far as low pressure it just didn't click that the relief was
  18. Phil is the rating not 4 bar? The actual pressures I converted from the manual which aren't measured in bars but kg/cm^2 for the 2 valve sporti was 3.8-4.2 (56-60psi) and 5kg/cm^2 for the HiCam (70psi) I'm guessing here but I'd have tought that the V11 would be the same are the Sporti 56-60psi The problem is only related to the HiCam, with the valve set for 56-60psi the valve will choke cold oil idle and typically a 2 v/v engine will idle somewhere between 60 and 65psi The HiCam has a large oil flow to the heads so the valve has to lift less to drop the oil pressure more, s
  19. Yeah I did say something about that in the photograph notes Phil but probably not clearly enough, so thanks for pointing it out again to ensure anybody looking at this doesn't get confused. John
  20. Not a problem Pete at the moment I've got the small Setrab on it with Dash 8 lines and full flow fittings. On the video you can here me say I got a leak, need to run it again to see if I've managed to sort it. With the larger diameter lines and full flow fittings, the lines immediately started to warm up, something that isn't nearly as noticable with the standard set up. I think that could be due to the OEM banjo fittings introducing pressure losses and restricitng flow to the OEM cooler Let me know postage costs wouldn't want you out of pocket There was also a leak coming from somew
  21. Weegie

    WTB - Centauro

    One more thing I put rather clumsily was in the tale of the 28psi idle pressure and the statement "50psi and even that's is really too low" when referring to cold idle presssure. 10psi at idle is more than enough, what I was trying to get across was on cold oil idle the relief valve is partially lifting/leaking and the setpoint that should be on the valve is 70psi, however they all lift early and idle at 50psi. Revving the engine will raise the pressure, choking the valve. I reckon It rises to a bit over 60psi at 3k rpm but I don't know if the pressure rises any higher than that. From wha
  22. Damm I meant to say on the video if anybody is contemplating this as a mod, what I didn't realize at the time was that there was 3 mm spacer jammed into the top of the valve as a shim. Like the dope I am I completely missed it and only found out about it later when messing with the valve again So the valve had the 1mm crush washer installed on the outside at the top of the valve which reduces the spring tension and a 3mm shim on the inside of the top bolt which increases the spring tension. If installing without the crush washer (which IMHO isn't necessary) I'd start with a 2mm washer/spa
  23. Weegie

    WTB - Centauro

    Perhaps you're correct Phil, it's a personal thing and specific to these engines. It's a backup to the rather unreliable pressure switch, known to fail. I rarely monitor the gauge on a ride, its just something I glance at from time to time, or if something else occurs (like the pressure light illuminating) to provide me with a little more information. Maybe my poor tech skills, but over the years I've found the gauge useful from time to time. A compromise would be to install a temporary hook up to monitor pressure for the shakedown runs and then remove it. Vive La Difference
  24. Weegie

    WTB - Centauro

    That was probably me Kremmen, I've got a HiCam engine that was/is overheating. Anyway I posted about the travails on this thread https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21884-hicam-oil-pressure-gross-stupidity-and-why-you-should-always-listen-to-chuck/ It may have been there as I made that statement on that thread Due to all the research I did, while basically going down the wrong road, I was frequently in correspondence with Joe Caruso and that was where the information came from If the gear pump output is linear with RPM and gear rotor length similarily linear t
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