Weegie

Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries).

No all Daytonas were 4v/v HiCam engines, the difference between the cooking Daytona and the RS were Dark Grey Engine Paint WP Suspension front and rear (the early bikes has pretty awful Marzocchi front forks and a Koni rear shock) Stage C engine tune (Wiseco pistons, Carrillo Rods, hotter cam, Hi Flow air filter, different exhaust and map) That looks like an early one (it's a 93 and that's about the year they started in production) judging by the forks, pork chops and engine colour, although it has the pod filters and bellmouth as fitted to the Dr John and what looks like a Termigioni full system, I can't be sure, the crossover isn't standard and the end cans are Termis (or Termi stickers). The white paint job, or it could be a wrap, isn't standard either (but I think really suits it) and the wheels are black, the originals were white, which looked great until you rode it and had to clean them after every ride. Personally I think it's a really nice example that's been tastefully modded. All that's just off the top of my head there's probably more. Even a "cooking" Daytona is a magic thing, the 4v/v engine is a beast, it encourages you to rev it and it sounds glorious. 15k sounds a little rich, but they really are great bikes and I think will rise in value, after the round heads I think it's the best looking engine Guzzi made.

I wasn't going to post again, but, the PRV release pressure can be adjusted by shimming the spring to compress, making the valve lift at higher pressures. With the HiCam engine my own experience was the OEM spring acuation wasn't all or nothing, it partially lifted, prior to full lift When I conducted static tests on the valve I found the lift pressure with cold oil on the bench was higher than the pressure when I ran the valve in the engine. My best guess why this occurs (and it's no more than that) was the valve cycling inside the running engine. The result was the running pressure in the engine was lower than the lift pressure obtained on the bench. I also want to thank @Lucky Phil for all the time and help he generously gave me and the solution of installing the Griso spring into the PRV in the HiCam. Without it I'd still be groping around in the dark. The aforementioned results were with the 4v/v engine and it's different to the 2v/v engine. I've never had the need to conduct any tests on a 2v/v engine as I've never experienced any problems with the 2v/v bikes. On both of mine the pressure is stable at approximately the PRV lift pressure of 60psi once the engine is up to temp and revs over 2ks. No idea if that's any help or not but thought I'd add it just in case

I've been poked with a stick before on oil pressure and my approach to monitoring with what I percieved as a potential problem engine. I don't think my phillosophy is 100% correct for all people on all ocassions, nor do I believe it's 100% wrong. IMHO there is more than "one way to skin a cat" and the answers to questions/problems don't need to be mutually exclusive. EDIT: And just to let everybody in on a little secret, the reason manufacturers don't fit gauges to vehicles anymore?............Accountants I'll get my coat

Have you checked the PRV @LaGrasta ? Just an idle musing on my part and I wondered if it was sticking slightly. @motortouring IMHO its not bad idea to do that, I just never thought about it

I don't own a V11 but have a Sport 1100 an LM 1000 & a HiCam engined bikes, so on V11 specifics I'm somewhat lacking, but AFAIK there is little difference between the V11 and Sport on the lubrication side. You obviously are well aware of the pressure behaviour on the bikes and I'm sure you also know that the oil pressure switches don't have the best reliability reputation. On your friends V11 it's almost certainly the bulb that's defective. I've never switched the bike off with the kill switch and then kept an eye on the pressure warning, so can't say for sure, if there would be a slight delay or not, but I can't recall seeing it happen. I've never ran a 2 v/v bike on 10/60, but the additional viscosity might also increase the pressure decay time. I also don't understand the statement about the oil pressure being out after the bike stalls (ignition OFF), the light will be out if the igntion swtich if OFF as there is no voltage to it, pressure or not it will not illuminate. If the light doesn't illuminate when the ignition is on and the engine has not been run the pressure switch is defective or starting to fail. What I'd do is either replace the switch, remove the exisitng switch and test it, or install a temporary gauge into the pressure switch location to separate the true pressure behaviour in the system from the instrumentation. If installing a gauge I believe the crankcase thread for the switch is an M12x1.5 thread Here is a crank test on a HiCam (4v/v) bike with cold 15W/50 oil, it doesn't have any relevance except you can see there is a short period when the engine stops rotating and the pressure decays to approx 7psi. That's on cold oil though, I'd expect it to be much quicker on a hot engine

Just put that onto my watch list I haven't checked what the threads are on the Guzzi part as I don't want to drain the tank right now If you do size yours it would be great if you could tell us if this is a direct replacement as I'd purchase a couple for my bikes. If you check his stores for a few dollars more he offers an assembly with the guaze filter and/or the filter separately

Just to add that I don't think it'll make any difference on which side the Petcock and pressure regulator are, providing the tubing in the fuel system is rearranged to suit. However if the Petcock and pressure regulators have just been swapped over then I doubt the engine would start. You'll also be running the pump dry and that won't be doing it any good either. Line from the Petcock should run to the fuel pump inlet, the pump outlet then runs to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter a line runs to one of the injectors then the other after that a line runs up to the regulator on the tank (ASS-uming it's the same a HiCam or Sporti). I'd follow the Petcock line and make sure it's running to the pump inlet, if it's running to one of the injectors then you'll need to swap the Petcock and pressure regulator components around. Apologies if I'm "teaching my granny"

Yup they used these POS's a lot, good design let down by inappropraite material. @Lucky Phil has thread where he tore one down then modified it to work properly. I think it's an O ring that the gas swells and makes the tap hard to use. It looks to me like that one is in the Open position, but it might not be fully open, they are a bitch to use and I end up using a pipe wrench on them to open and close. Clockwise to close and Anticlockwise to open as viewed from the floor looking up to the tank, obviously the opposite if looking from the tank downwards towards the ground Good catch @paulnaz I never noticed and checked my Sporti and HiCam (don't have a V11) and the fuel tap is on the left on both bikes looking from the rear of the bike towards the front)

Bit late but it was posted up with an article on WG a long time back. Bored out 1100 Sport. One of my all time favourates but as Professor Roper said increasing the capacity of an 1100 Sport was questionable given its already marginal crankcase breathing

Disclaimer I only know the 5 speed box BUT that speedo drive assembly looks identical to the 5 speed. ASS-UMING it's the same then here are some pics from the 5 speed, if they are different I'm sure @docc will jump in The Worm drive that is turned by the layshaft is held onto the layshaft by a small steel ball, like a ballbearing. It sits in the longest groove in the layshaft and is held captive by the layshaft nut REMEMBER THIS IS A 5 SPEED THE 6 SPEED COULD BE DIFFERENT Did you remove the drive assembly, that bottom washer can get left behind and (if it's like the 5 speed) fall into the box and create mayhem Don't take any of this as correct until somebody familiar with the 6 speeder verifies that it's similar

My Sporti has the straight cut gearbox, which is generally considered a curse. I love the sound it makes though, at times it's louder than the engine. I've been through the box and everything is good, so far, it's just the noise it makes. As Phil said, sounds to me like he's off the throttle and the gears are running on the other face, if I was a gambling man, I'd put my money on the gearbox. The Sporti also has Joe's gears they don't (to my ear anyway) make anything like that sort of din

I'd never heard of a 2v/v engine failing to prime and never had to prime one, even on a dry engine after rebuilds. After 5 seconds or so (if the oil filter is prefilled) I've always seen pressure. It would be interesting to know if somebody has actually experienced this just out of interest The HiCams on the other hand are a completely different kettle of fish

I have no clue, but as @Scud said you've got to try to narrow down when the rattle is occuring. It doesn't sound like clutch plates to me, but I don't own a V11 and basing my experience on earlier bikes

Ouch!! Oh and just to shadow @docc reply, the Magni Sporti is a little different in it's drive shaft set up, but ocassionally if I've buggered up there I sometimes get a noise from it, more of click than a rattle but I hear it irrespective of clutch engagement. Apologies if you know all this and these answers are blindingly obvious, but I don't know how well you know the bike. I don't know the 6 speed box as all my bikes have the ancient 5 speed. If it was me I'd try to eliminate the obvious prior to tearing it apart, especially as it's the "summer" (although up here in Jockland you'd never know it)

Clutch plates rattling? If so absolutely nothing to worry about. Ducatis clutches are pretty noisy, but they use many more plates

I just hope @p6x doesn't ask about a gear indicator Phil's comment on a pressure gauge at your knee, raised a wry smile, my R9T has just that & to read the dipstick temp on the Guzzis similarly requires me to look down to read it, with the Australia I need to get off the bike. Although not 100% certain, I don't believe BMW provide any form of warning on loss of oil pressure on these bikes, not even a light, so I installed a gauge. I only glance at these gauges ocassionally, as and when it's safe to do so. That either confirms or rebutts what I'm guessing might be occuring. I find it reassuring and can concentrate on the ride, rather than the lingering nagging doubt in the back of my mind, but I'm paranoid. IMHO it's personal choice there isn't a right or wrong answer, I understand and agree with some of the arguments against. I could also make a reasonable case to counter some of these arguments but I really cannot be arsed.

A little harsh Pete, but you've always called it as you see it and you've forgot more than I'll ever know when it comes to these engines (or engines in general come to that) I agree to an extent but as I've got a dipstick temp gauge on all my engines (laughed at by most as a useless farkle). I use it especially with the HiCam. It's less useful on a 2v/v headed bike (my experience is they're more robust) and personally think a pressure gauge is of more use (but I have them installed as well). I tend to glance at mine on the Sporti when caught in unavoidable traffic queues and want to know how long (or how far) I'm going to get before I need to pull over and stop. Once sump temp goes over 120C your close to reaching the limit, although the HiCam can go as high as 130C, the oil pressure is dropping through the floor by that time and definately time to pull over. That said on the Sporti it usually starts to loose power, once above 120 and you can feel the heat coming off it, even then the oil pressure is still holding up (told ya the 2 v/v bikes are more robust) When it comes down to it, it's personal choice, so if @p6x wants it why not? [moderator edit to correct the origin of the discussion: p6x] It's certainly not doing any harm, it helped me gain a rough idea of how a particular engine behaves under various conditions.

It's what I'd take that to be, there's a temp sensor bolted onto one of the heads, I can't remember which one though

Don't know the V11, so it may be different on the Sporti and HiCam turning them clockwise closes them resulting in less air, so it would richen the mixture. AFAIK they are marginal things anyway and won't have much effect on the mixture EXCEPT at idle where the engine isn't breathing much. I've always understood that they are just used to balance up the TBs at tickover in case it's off a bit after you balance the butterflies at higher RPMs. Sure somebody who knows the V11 and is more knowledgable than me will chip in to give you a definitive answer

I believe Phil is referring to the intake manifolds that bolts onto the head, they are triangular and held by 3 cap screws. You'd remove them, think you'll need to purchase or make gaskets for them. Install the rubbers to the removed manifold, then install the TB assembly onto the other side of the intake rubbers. After that offer the whole thing up to head and bolt the manifolds into place Not sure if that explains it enough or not

Not a biggie to replace them although they can be quite tough to get off and on. Don't need to remove the tank, but the way I've did it in the past is to pull the whole TB assembly back, so you may not have enough room without removing the airbox. Then it's a bugger to try to get the TB assembly back on Grease would help getting them off, personally I wouldn't use grease putting them back on as you don't want them to move and rely on the friction to hold them in place. You could use something that will evaporate over time to ease them on. Just what I've done not saying it's the recommended method, lets see if others chime in

You guys could well be correct, but I'd be surprised. The Sprint's look similar to K&Ns & many, many have installed them to Sports and Daytonas without any remapping being required, despite all the dire warnings I see on the forums that the bike will run like crap. Granted you might lose a "hoss" or two, but anectodally I've not heard of anybody I know personally who installed them and had any issues. Different engine but in an article over on the COG forum on tuning, one owner found the stock airbox restrictive By all means try placing the stock filter back on as it's not a huge amount of work to test it, I'm interested to see if that's the problem. Quite happy to be proved wrong, every day being a school day and all that

Hi Pete My Sporti engined bike actually has a MyECU installed by a previous owner However I'm running Guzzidiag V0.60 on the HiCam engine (Daytona RS engine) which is also 16M AFAIK I started up the laptop to be sure and Guzzidiag tells me the ECU selected is the 16M, so perhaps I'm not losing my mind after all Understand why as the site doesn't make mention of the 16M being supported It's either that or I'm needing medical attention

I've got a Magni with 1100 sporti engine so it's a bit different, but I'd check the air temp, air pressure, cylinder head temp and TPS sensors are all plugged in and registering. GuzziDiag could be helpful here as it shows what the sensor values are. When you say running like crap, what exactly do you mean, misfire, lack of power, not idling?