Weegie

@Tomchri is in probably the most advanced country along that road in Europe with a large number wind turbines and a huge take up in electric vehicles. I know Norway isn't in the EU. As I recall if that's approved then all the countries in the block need to agree as each has a veto, so if it has gone through then Italy has agreed to it Just checked it's the end of sales of petrol and deisel vehicles by 2035 a different thing altogether and it has still to be ratified by individual countries lawyers and ministers, so not quite a done deal anyway. Germany is in for a lot of pain as it's huglely dependent on gas and even coal.

I've been debating if I should purchase one of these Lithium minature jump start packs or the Super Capacitor version just in case. Could be attached to the lead from the battery to the starter, at the starter with the neg onto wherever on the engine or gearbox @Tomchri idea is a good one too, just make sure it's quite a beefy wire, I've used a wrench and a screwdriver in the past and the spark it makes on connection is impressive. Oh and stating the bleedin' obvious, FFS make sure the bike's in neutral by wheeling it to check, NEVER rely on "The gearbox is in the vicinty of neutral" warning light

Workshop Manual V11 Sport, is the one I grabbed from the Piaggo website I think calling for 20/50 The 5/40 recommendation surprises me, but I'm just a average bodger who knows little about such esoterics

I've never looked into the various viscosities in that amount of detail. As I only use the bikes in Spring/Summer/Autumn they never see an ambient below 10C (50F) so the low temp viscosities are academic and don't concern me The manual I have for the V11 states 20W/50, as do all the Guzzis of that era, I don't know if that changed in later V11 models. The only reason I'd run a 10W or below would to reduce wear on start up as it would circulate faster. However that needs to be balanced with warm up to operating temp and/or running temp, as some engines, dependent on ambient and other factors, may not reach 100C oil temp I came across a formula for interpolation of viscosites and it's far from perfect as it doesn't work so well with synthetics and multigrades, but it's better than nothing. Using it revealed some interesting results. When I changed from 15/50 to 10/60 around 20C the 10/60 is considerably more viscous than the 15/50 because of the higher viscosity index. So when the bike is cold on the 10/60 the oil is more viscous One more thing on viscosity is not all manufacturers who have the same grades are equal, the Motul synthetic I was using prior to moving to Penrite was a bit thinner for the same quoted grade. If I was changing grade I'd at least put on a temporary gauge to get some idea of what's happening to the oil pressure. From my limited experience you don't need to run the engine hard to get a clue, as above 3k RPM there is little change in pressure. The Sporti PRV opens at 60psi and when I'm out in ambients between 12-25C the pressure at above 2k is always around there. With Zinc the Mobil levels are high, the Penrite is 0.124% by mass I'm assuming that's 1240 PPM & Phosphorus 1100 PPM . There was a thread on here where somebody called Motul to check (I think it was 300V but unsure) and it was considerably lower

We're going a bit Off Topic from relays here, would it not be a better idea if you started a separate thread. [docc edit: Done! Thanks for the suggestion! ] Having a hot Hi Cam I've did a little delving into oils both viscosity grades and additives. The 2 I found that claim to have higher ZDDP were Pentrite and Royal Purple, both Australian oil manufacturers, I've no clue why. Currently I'm running the HiCam on 10/60 Full Synth Penrite. I've yet to get any meaningful mileage to evaluate it though. I've seen people stating Guzzi brought out a technical that the previously recommended 20/50 should go to 10/60, but on my Sporti I find that the bike runs fine on 15/50 (so a 20/50 would likewise be Ok). Purely anectodal, but I think the 2 V/V bikes don't require 10/60, they hold pressure fine on 20/50. The 4V/V bikes like the HiCam may benefit from 10/60 if they run hot. That's for the ambients in the UK, if you ride in high ambients then a 10/60 may be worthwhile. What little data I've gathered is from having a sump oil temp dipstick and a pressure gauge. You're quite correct though air cooled bikes will be more susceptable to changes in ambients, in the Ducati manual for my 1098 (a watercooled engine) it referenced a range of acceptable viscosity grades that could be used dependent on the ambient range. No clue if that helps or not.

I found getting anything near a reliable reading next to impossible, especially with the Roper plate in situ which can catch the dipstick. I followed Phil's advice on my HiCam and Sporti (the V11 broadsump should be the same) and "overfilled" to just below the level of the Roper Plate which you can see by looking through the dipstick hole. This works a treat for me and I have not experienced any problems with pressurization

Just a note of caution on LiFe batteries. They may be fine in fact I've got one in a Sporti, but be aware these batteries have lower internal resistance and can absorb and discharge higher currents. This could lead to problems with the Reg/Rec on older bikes. The Ducati forums were full of guys installing them and then having problems, some more serious than others. I can't remember off the top of my head but their charging regime is slightly different too. You can charge them with a conventional charger usually, but any de-sulphation cycle on the charger must be disabled. Some now have balance circuitry and overvoltage protection built in others not. If the battery doesn't self balance then a balance charge should be conducted ocassionally. Over the winter they are best stored at 80% charge, this doesn't mean 80% voltage, you need to get the relevant chart off the manufacturer Although I've had no problems with mine, I'm just pointing out some of the differences. If I had the Shindengen 847 like @Tomchri I'd have no hesitation in using one. They can be great, light, small, faster charging, long life and lots of cold cranking power (except in cold conditions) but just be aware that there are differences in the technology John

Perhaps, I'm still running the original in my HiCam and would still be using the original in the Sporti if the Fekin spigot hadn't broken off, the pump was fine Spare might be a good idea I suppose

Fuel Pump specification From the Sport 1100 manual (I think all the systems on this vintage are identical). The pump operates at 100 l/hr at 3 bar, this is what the system runs at and is an industry standard. There are other standard pressures too but Guzzi run at the 3 bar. The pump is overpressure protected at 5 bar, via the discharge feeding back to the inlet. The pump has a non return valve to prevent the system draining down through the pump when it's switched off. Pierburg #7.21565.70.0. This pump is almost completely identical in every way to the specifications of the Weber PI-021 which was originally supplied, some folks state their pump was PI-121, I have no idea of the differences between the 2. The Pierburg has overpressure protection and a check valve to maintain system pressure like the original. Physically the pump is a bit different. It is thinner but comes with a rubber isolating sleeve which will allow fitment to the original bracket. Likewise the inlet has a 12mm barb suitable for installation of the existing inlet hose. The outlet is different. The model quoted here comes with a female threaded M10x1.0 connection. The pump is supplied with 2 adapters which fit into that connection. These are an M12 and an M14 both 1.5 pitch banjo connections. I found a 12mm banjo to 8mm barb off E-Bay that should allow me to install the original hose, with a little bit of rerouting. I chose to go this way as I broke off the original plastic outlet which had welded itself to the hose, there is a cheaper direct Pierburg replacement. That model is the 7.21287.53.0. This has a plastic high pressure end but instead of the threaded outlet, it comes with an 8mm barb so should slot straight in That's very old info from Guzzitech, it's my research so I'm not ripping off the info I was forced to go down that route before the cheaper pump quoted became available. The Pierburg is significantly more expensive, I thought I'd post it up anyway............never have too little info. Pretty sure the V11 with external pump will be identical as would the HiCams as well as the Sports.

I think the reason Euro Moto Electrics don't like AGM batteries is because they have a lower internal resistance, so can accept or feed larger currents than convnetional lead acid batteries. Roadster Cycles supply Shindengen MOSFET reg/recs and I'm also a fan boy of their products. Ducati owners love the Shindengen reg/recs @Kiwi_Roy is required to back me up here or correct me, as he's IMHO the most knowledgable guy on here when it comes to electrics. I think V11s have the Ducati Reg/Rec and have a recollection that Roy told me they're series regulators, which is a little unusual, nearly all regualtors are shunt type. After saying that a few guys on WG installed Shindengen shunt regulators to replace the OEM Ducati regulator and stated they worked fine. The most common Shindengen FH020AA, is a 3 phase shunt, the alternator on the V11 is a single phase alternator. This means that only one of the available phases on the Shindengen can be used, which will reduce the power rating it's capable of supporting. Should you choose to go Shindengen I'd check with Jack at Roadster Cycle that the Reg/Rec is capable of supporting the output of the Ducati Alternator. It is the way I intend go on my HiCam or Sport if required, I don't own a V11 but I really like Shindengen and I'm not a huge fan of Euro Moto Electrics One more thing there are a whole slew of knock off (Chinese mostly) FH020AA reg/recs on E-Bay and elsewhere, up to you if you use one, but don't be fooled into thinking they're the real deal.

Perhaps I've got my wires crossed, but warranty might be a reason, the main thing I reckon is cost and ease of install, if we are referring to the RapidBike EVO. For newer models it comes complete with harness and is plug & pray play. The module covers lots of different manufacturers and models, just like Power Commander. A completely new ECU is going to be more expensive and then adds the complexity of mapping, or getting the old map into the new ECU. If you're asking why it's offered as an add on for a V11, then I've no idea.

Knock sensor? These bikes have a knock sensor? The R9T I mentioned previously has 2 one on each cylinder, a Piezzo crystal I think, it senses vibration from the cylinder. I had to replace mine, I'd think they're common on Euro 4 onwards bikes with closed loop mapping. IMHO just something else to break, needless complexity only necessary because emission limits are becoming so stringent. Regarding RapidBike they are very responsive and open to questions, the customer response I recieived was great and fast. Reckon in theory it might be possible to install one to 15/16M? and use the optional My Tuning Bike module and a wide band lambda to get real time mapping on the fly. The practicalities elude me though as I don't know how it would communicate with the ECU. Seems overkill to me, even if it was possible but then again we're all different

Just to add that looks like an EVO unit. I've got one on the BMW R9T, it's more capable than a Power Commander in some respects what it does is adjust closed loop fuelling on more modern bikes and isn't required on an open loop system. The EVO only looks at the fuel map, if you wanted to adjust ignition too you'd need to get the RACE module. For the R9T it comes complete with its own loom and is (pretty much) plug and play The R9Ts are tuned quite lean (mine is a Euro 4) the stock narrow band lambdas output go to the EVO which alters the signal to the A/F ratio you set and it then sends a dummy signal to the ECU essentially fooling it to alter the injector timing to achieve the A/F you select. Quite a few use it on the R9Ts especially if they install different exhausts or air filters. With the narrow band lambdas it tunes on the fly but narrow band lambdas are essentially a 3 way switch they only tell you if the A/F is optimal, rich or lean. The EVO takes a few hundred miles for the module to optimize the tune to the target A/F (13.2 out the box, as I recall). You can also get another add on to the EVO and install a wide band lambda which will tune (more or less) in real time. EVO comes with software and you can adjust/tweak the map, or the target A/F and a few other odds and ends. I like it, it's quite a nice system for closed loop tuning on a bike where it can be difficult to find places to remap the ECU. As for V11s it's not required for open loop systems

When installing on my HiCam I used a 32mm extra deep 6 point impact socket. I didn't use the rattle gun on the nut but I preferred the 6 point impact as it would give the best fit as I knew it'd be on pretty tight They aren't exactly cheap but can be found at less than an arm and a leg. If you weren't on the wrong side of the pond to me I'd have popped mine in the post to you Check E-Bay (or wherever) for Extra Deep 32mm socket, then measure up to be sure, but these sockets are available and do the job Perhaps Phil has another solution John

AFAIK the mandatroy intallation of speed limiters, currently doesn't apply to motorcycles. As @footgoose states though it's on the way, for sure. Oh and the loggers I mentioned earlier are going to be a part of it, so big brother will know your every move. article from Visor Down https://www.visordown.com/news/industry/vehicles-sold-eu-uk-2022-be-fitted-automatic-speed-limiters Even Orwell didn't imagine this sorta shit and how easily we (as in the public) would give up our rights and principals

I hear you Phil and agree the concept is laudable, but I have doubts on the outcomes, especially in the short term. There have been incidents with automated systems in the avation sphere, where the high level of automation and complexity has lead to disastair or near disastair, Airbus spring to mind. These occured where there were not one but two individuals that had undergone rigorous training on these systems, yet still things went awry. With vehicles everybody will be different, but automation that works sucessfully for well over 99% of the time will lull a large chunk of people into becoming too comfortable with the tech and rely on it. Texting, phoning, looking at the web on phones is already a considerable blight and I can't see it getting better if automation further reduces driver input. I stress it won't be everybody and it'll depend on the individual and the circumstances. I'm thinking about perhaps a lengthy commute home from the office (that you've done thousands of time before), you've had a long tiring day and perhaps the weather isn't the best. When the time comes to intervene the average driver will either be doing something else or be that shocked the tech has failed the accident will be a done deal. Then again I'm a dinosaur, in aviation automation has certainly saved more lives than on the rare ocassion it has led to lives being lost. So in the long run automation will be a force for the better, but that doesn't stop concern about the downsides. As for the ability to exceed the limit for short manoeuvers, I don't know but I'd be doubt it. Legislation is a large blunt stone axe and always results in unintended consequences. How it pans out we shall have to wait and see. On noise, when (if?) the vast bulk of vehicles are electric, it will be interesting to review road accident stats, especially pedestrian injuries/fatalities. Back in the 50s and 60s Glasgow City Council (where I live) introduced Trolley Buses, electrically driven buses taking their power via overhead wires. I remember them and marvelled at the smoothness and lack of noise as a kid. No idea of the number of accidents they were responsible for but the locals very quickly named them "The whispering death"

I knew about the cars but not the motorcycles. As I understand it initially you'll be able to switch it off but it will reset to default "Enabled" everytime the vehicle is started, I think we can all see the thin end of the wedge here. Along with Euro 5, where the baffles are welded in and the ECUs locked (although there will be some "genius" somewhere that will figure ways I'm sure to get around that) motorcycles and combustion engines in general are gradually going to be subject to more onerous legislation. Despite leaving the EU the UK is 99% certain to follow these rules too. Add that to the low emissions zones being proposed in centres of population, which councils here in the UK are keen on to bolster their "Green" credentials but more importantly use as a cash cow to milk the motorists teets dry (the bad evil people that they are poisoning us all and ruining the planet). Then we get to the latest wheeze where Paris is introducing noise "cameras" and anything greater than an arbitary decibel level gets a ticket. This will get taken up probably next by London followed by other major population centres. Where I am a low emissions zone has ben announced, although what it entails and what the charges are I'm yet to find out. The thing that gets my goat about it all is it's introduced retrospectively, it's not new vehicles but all vehicles that will be subject to these increasing draconian measures and things like "low emission zones" will charge people living within the zone. Currently I think London gives people living within the zone a discount, but they are still charged. I find the whole thing pretty disgusting due its retrospective nature. When the IC engine only belongs to a small minority government are going to go after EVs, nothing is surer as there won't be enough IC engined vehicles to bleed white. Probably road pricing is on the cards, with those GPS systems installed it should be easy to track where you've went and when. I'm not a fan of this brave new world, where we're gradually being smothered by safety regulations and zero road deaths as a target is just bloody stupid. Then again I don't live in the rarified atmosphere of Brussels, Westminster or our own parliament here in Edinburgh I'm just left to quietly despair and thankful that soon it won't matter to me, in the meantime I intend to RIDE!!

I can assure you they are still in business, I got a mail from Magni just the other day giving some info on the forks in my Sfida Communication can be very hit and miss and frustrating. Italy isn't like the US/Canada where level of service is everything. Magni probably has way more work than he can handle so he/they are less bothered if a few enquiries get skipped. I've been communicating with him on and off for quite a few years now, sometimes I get a response right away, other times I need to send out multiple mails before I hear back If you really want the Magni fairing, then I'd just try again. Once he hooks up with you and answers the enquiry and if you decide to go ahead it should be plain sailing, at least that's been my experience, it's getting that first contact that's tricky Giovanni has good english too. magni@magni.it is the address I use.

We are talking about the connections for the warning lights? My 1100 Sport has Lucar or Spade connectors if you prefer. They pull off but might be tight or corroded on a little, just wiggle them gently and pull them down, preferably by the connector and not the wire if you can avoid it. As suggested by @docc I'd label them to ensure you don't get them mixed up. My preference is to use small luggage labels, it doesn't matter which wire goes where on a single bulb as long as they are labelled for the bulb they come off you'll be fine. The other alternative is to check the wire colours match the wiring diagram BEFORE you pull them off, the factory could be a bit cowboy in that regard. I wouldn't rely on the wiring colours matching the diagram without checking As far as cable lube I use the same tool as docc has put up, I usually use a light oil, anything I've got handy from WD40, ACF50 Plusgas etc: Just don't use a heavy oil (like engine oil or the like) and you'll be fine. Just thinking aloud here but wonder how a light fork oil might fair for this sort of application

Heh @Tomchri as my German is non existant and Scandanavians put us Brits to shame, can you give me a clue what you're pointing to? Is it the 75/140 in the transmission? I've just filled with 75/90 Royal Purple into my Guzzis but will probably up that to the 75/140 at the next change. I decided to get rid of the Redline Heavy Shockproof as there isn't any data sheets for it or specs it meets and that makes me suspicious (as does the miracle claims from their marketing dept). I'm not saying it bad but if I don't know what's in it I don't know it's good either. Also see that DAS want the 20ml of Molycote addition to the bevel box where a lot of modern oil are GL4 & GL5 approved I'm not being critical just asking the question as I'd like to know more and get the best lube that I can to minimise wear in the box

Pretty sure my Sporti has a similar system Before checking the Alternator I'd make sure all the Reg/Rec wires are connected............At least on the Sport there are 2 which connect with a half assed jack plug arrangment that (too) easily pulls apart I'd also check the earth on the Reg/Rec and the condtion of the yellow cables from the Alternator too You've replaced Relay #1&2 although it should be obvious but I'd check all the fuses, looks like some of them could perhaps cause issues That's if I've got the correct wiring diagram As @docc states, easy to check Alternator voltage remember AC Volts

No @docc It's is fixed onto the Layshaft. The worm has a small cutout and a steel ball, like a ball bearing fits into the cutout. The lower section of the ball fits inside the deepest spline on the layshaft so the collar containing the worm drive can't go anywhere and is forced to turn with the layshaft. If you think about it, it would really have to be that way as the worm drive will have a load exerted onto it by the vertical helical gear, if it wasn't positively located it would slip and not rotate at the same RPM as the worm. Dunno if this helps to show the collar located onto the layshaft. Behind the collar, the slotted section between the gear and the collar is where the layshaft bearing installs onto. This is a 5 speed drive but I think the 6 speed is similar The ball, in turn, is held in place by the Layshaft nut which butts up against it (not shown in the picture but you can see the threads it screws onto) EDIT Just to add the worm drive has to stay whether you like it or not. The smooth surface on the collar behind the worm drive is the surface that the layshaft oil seal runs on

Think it's already pretty clear and I'm not familiar with the 6 speed boxes, but the 2 washers AFAIK are shims and there to take up thrust loading on the helical drive. I don't think they are available as components separately. What happens on the 5 speed boxes, is the lower washer gets left in the bottom of the hole. The helical drive (the thrust washers locate on the top and bottom of that drive) are driven from a worm on the layshaft and is behind the main layshaft bearing. In order for the worm on the layshaft to drive the helical gear there is a cutout in the gearbox casing. If the washer is left in place vibration can (and usually does) allow the washer to move, it then gets caught on the helical drive. If you're lucky it get spun out into the bottom of the box where the chances are it won't do any harm and either get flushed out during an oil change or caught by the magnet. If you're unlucky it gets mashed and the pieces migrate into the large ball bearing supporting the layshaft and damage/deystroy it, or it slips further in to get mashed and grind away at the gears. Neither scenario will be inexpensive. The only reasons I can think why Rolf states to leave the assembly in there, are the already explained danger, or sealing to prevent water ingress. If the washers are removed and a flat rubber ring or even O ring used on the plug to eal it, then all should be good. My 1100 sport runs SpeedHut gauges and I removed the Gearbox internals, not had a problem.

Hopefully Kiwi Roy will show up. I believe the switches are rebuildable, although I've never had one apart myself. If the swtich is dodgy I'd be doing that as quite apart from the starting issue, there's a good chance it'll give up and leave you stranded somewhere. From a quick glance at an early V11 diagram it doesn't look like the switch is under the same load as earlier schemes, which is a good thing Old battery is where I'd start & although I don't have a V11 Phil's advice about the battery reconditioning or replacing and starting advice is what I do with my Sporti. In my experience twisting the throttle on starting just makes things worse

That's a good idea anyway, even if the grease hasn't pressurised the bearing. I found that just poking the ball on the fitting loosens it up. Usually there's all manner of crap that gets thrown onto the fitting from the road and then even a small amount of corrosion will "weld" the ball onto the static part of the valve. Mind you I'm referring to Magni's shafts which are slightly different but reasonably confident the same logic will apply to Guzzi's set up