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andy york

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andy york last won the day on November 24 2020

andy york had the most liked content!

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About andy york

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  • Birthday 05/03/1958

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  • My bikes
    2002 V11 LeMans 125,000 miles
  • Location
    nashville tn

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  • Interests
    family<br />motorcycles<br />racing<br />motorcycles

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  1. When you have a moment Andy, could you please take a more clear close-up photo? It's difficult to see where the zerk is. Thanks. As soon as I can....she is in the back of the garage...hard to get at. I guess I will start posting a disclaimer on my "hacks". I am not responsible for what happens to you. Yes... I put another access point in the u-joint cover...and yes I know what the u-joint cover is for. oh and yes I accept responsibility for my actions. I hope it enables you to grease the u-joint and go 130,000 miles just like me.
  2. here is the cut out I made on my LeMans
  3. If you have not put everything back together you can take that front u-joint cover off and cut a bigger hole in order to get a grease gun on the zerk. If you feel like it. I did not relish the idea of that disassembly every time I put a tire on. (which used to be 3-4 times a year) Should be a thread on it somewhere in here. Andy
  4. I thought someone talked about using a Hall sensor? Chuck maybe ? and to clarify my earlier statement. In the past, many many miles traveled for work or places far from home. During those "events" I was not exactly traveling in the most legal fashion. Now days I don't travel for work on the bike so I have been "taking it easy" which puts me right in the 2.8 to 3 k range of the hiccups.
  5. That would be a negative then. I have 4 or 5 of them floating around in the draw. Some are new...some are used. They all work the same...as in they work, but did not cure the hiccup. I used to just never ride in that rpm range or rode through it so it did not bother me much. Now age has crept into the picture and I guess I'm slowing down....but its right right where I want to be when I'm out riding around the HD part is NLA I think....I could not get one the last time I tried
  6. Now that friends and neighbors is what I call PURDY !!!
  7. it may not solve the issue but to me it puts more cred on the fact that the smaller hex nut is for compression. and if that is the case you will have to take off the top cap to adjust your sag. some forks you can "feel" the detents as you turn the rebound screw. I would think that there are no more than 15 on the Marz. There maybe detents on the compression.make a mark with a sharpie, put a box end wrench on the smaller nut and see how many turns. If you ever get to the point of pulling the forks out, upon reassembly, be sure to index the forks to the same orientation so yo
  8. 35 mm of sag is more of a "common" number people try to achieve. It doesn't just happen. It will depend on what springs you have....what fork oil you are running....and fork settings. They are different for everyone. If Docc has his sport set to 35mm of sag and I get on his bike, sag will be about 70mm.Docc is about 170 soaking wet and I am about 230 dry (pounds).Anyone who has ridden my bike says it seems harsh and stiff. Probably is for them but its really good to me. So ....were you able to turn the middle section? if yes, how many turns did it go. And if it was 3-4 tu
  9. what does the manual say about the larger center nut ?....maybe that is the compression adjustment.
  10. The top of that fork almost looks like you can adjust preload by turning the bigger middle nut...19 mm in size maybe. The smaller screwdriver blade adjustment is for compression and/or rebound. Those fork top caps a very different from the earlier V11 Marzzochi forks. Looks like the top piece with the C / R adjustment is mounted in another piece that has flats on it like a nut, which may be you preload. I would assume that the largest area with flats that would accept a wrench or socket is the top cap of the fork tube itself. If you have a way of taking weight off the fron
  11. That was an extremely short answer. What manufacture are your forks? I can't zoom your pic enough to see much other than the fact that they do not look like Marzocchi. Do you have Ohlins forks? more info needed
  12. Unless someone else chimes in about a 2005 model year LeMans, you should have left tube C right tube R. Do you know the history of this bike? Has someone replaced a component because of an accident? Unfortunately to set preload you will have to try different length spacers under the top fork nut. Specifically, you will want a shorter spacer than what is in there now. Andy
  13. I would like to know more about the front brake set up and what was trying to be achieved. Andy
  14. New calipers are cheap enough in my opinion. 100 bucks and you probably could have a new one. Bike sitting for 5 years = bad fluid. starts to solidify in the line...first pump or 2 is ok and then you have forced that nasty stuff into the caliper. Now its stuck in the caliper and can't find its way back in that tiny feed hole. In the mean time the caliper is full and pushing the pads against the rotor. Rotor gets cherry red ..heat transfers to the caliper...melts the seals and distorts the pistons. Pistons are of a non-metallic substance so they can't transfer any heat.
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