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luhbo

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Posts posted by luhbo

  1. Well, this is the subforum for 'Everything Non-Guzzi and Redneck Trash-Talk', albeit it could as well be filed under '24/7', this being a topic definitely affecting everydays' life in my opinion. Law enforcement agencies actively and/or passively (time will tell), through their agents and officers, are killing citizens, and others look actively away, being afraid of whether their GPS system will be charged right in time before they start for a fun tour. Or they look actively away saying that they never have done such things during their 35 years in service.

    Latest update over here: coroners report that this man died not only because a police officer was kneeling on his neck for minutes but also because two other men, also wearing the badge as you call it, were sitting on his back during the same time. Three men on one body.

    I don't think that's something that could be flushed. Flush it and it's out of sight, in reality that's the point where the unappetising part of the procedure begins.

  2. What sort of democracy can it be where it's official police procedure, taught at police schools, to kneele on a man's neck? On a man's neck who's hands are already tied up on his back and who's laying face down on the floor? And what sort of democracy can it be where the jurisdiction needs more then a week, if they ever will some day at all, to even react when people get killed by something like that?

    A policeman kills a citizen while three of his colleagues hold back the crowd so that the officer can eventually finish his job? 

    And this for over 8 minutes? Enough time to smoke three cigarettes?

    I don't get it. 

    • Like 3
  3. Ist doesn't matter, sure, but here you pay 10 per wheel plus 3 for dumping the old tyre.

    I don't know any of you folks, but I remember well Todd's silly, angry and incompetent rants against Tuneboy and MyEcu. That was a long time ago, tho

    • Thanks 1
  4. No, better check the oil upright. Too much oil is no problem as long as you don't rev the bike in Super Sports mode and as long as the rest of the engine, rings and pistons, are ok. And they are ok on a V11. The breather exhales into the airbox, plenty of room there.

    You probably made another fault I'd say.

    • Like 1
  5. 51 minutes ago, GuzziMoto said:

    ... Around here, the main concern is to watch out for others because they ain't watching out for you....

    Yep. I feel safer when I ride as if I were invisible. Or as Docc correctly wrote: they pull out in front of 'full bright' fire trucks anyway. Besides that this attitude makes me feel as if I could safely  ride on in my dark riding gear: waxed muck over black Dainese leathers :)

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    • Haha 1
  6. Would be a pity if the whole thread would crash at this point :) In fact blinding or over-modulated lights are rather dangerous for the source itself. Brains tend to lock in in this case. Either they shut off completely or they focus their aggressiveness on that prick.

    @po18guy: did you wonder why they call it 'Infitary'? This word reminds me of something ...

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    • Thanks 2
  7. It is, yes. But I swapped the heads at around 150.000. The guides were worn out, also the camshaft and, most of all, the tappets. I don't think it made much difference performance wise, I'm maybe not that sensitive, but it developed substantial noise above 7500. The first time it's rather frightening when you suddenly rev into a massive valve clatter. Surprisingly it didn't do any damage to the valves or the pistons, although it very much sounded so.

    • Like 1
  8. 5 angle cut, with a different seat angle, indeed is good practice. A friend once called his tool for this his "tuning steel" :) That was 40 years ago. Maybe today I just lack a bit the fire of those days. On the positive side: today I always find a ready assembled and ready to run motorcycle when I open the garage door. 

    When I talked about different cams as doable and interesting experiments then there should be enough time for such easy head modding as you described it. Let's see, I have a spare engine left from my previous V11, maybe I'll put part of my interest in this direction next year.  Tuning then is something different as Hot-Rodding.

  9. In reply to Pressureangle: In your post I'm missing the terms 'laminar flow' and 'turbulent flow', and I'm missing an explanation for the difference between them and also an explanation of how they affect the possible charge or 'grade of delivery' in a given port geometry with sharp bends underway and then a straight connection between in and out.

    According to my humble understanding of fluid/aero dynamics the Guzzi heads, 2-valve especially, with their sharply bent inlet ports and relatively huge valves are designed pretty close to what is possible. The overall shape still might look the same as in 1966, but actually the V11 and even more the later and last 2Vs were absolutely top notch. These engines are nearly on the same level as Ducati's Desmo 2Vs which can benefit from much easier geometrical constraints and, on top of that, a much quicker valve train. 

    So, personally I wouldn't expect too much for my Guzzi money if put into porting work. I'd rather experiment with cams and airbox mods, the more as here the mods always can be undone.

     

  10. 3 minutes ago, GuzziMoto said:

    ... They put a gauge on the dash to show you how bad the electrical system is.....

    Sounds as if it is an English bike ...

    Wait, my LMIII has that, too. I never really noticed it until now.
    Maybe that was a part of riding in analog times. Ride, burn fuel, have fun. Don't talk about it to the internet. Battery empty -> recharge. Shocks wobbly -> ignore. Yet, somehow I can't remember flat batteries or wobbly shocks or other annoying things. A tank was 20 litres was 20 Marks. Now it's 15 litres and 50 Marks. But I have a special forum for every single bike I own. Substantial progress was really slow the last 30, 40 years, wasn't it?

    • Like 1
  11. I guess peaks wouldn't do much harm.
    Besides that 30A x 14V make for over 400W, well beyond what the alternator can deliver, not to mention the losses in the regulator and wiring etc.
    In my opinion it's only a matter of cheap non-automotive fuse holder contacts.

    • Like 2
  12. On 9/14/2019 at 10:05 AM, Lucky Phil said:

    Another surprise. I pulled the old input shaft seal today and noted the input shaft fwd bearing not seated in the casing to the tune of 1.5mm short. You can see the evidence of this in the inner race. Should be fairly easy to rectify. Its not a major issue other than the bearing outer race is not fully supported in the case. Makes you wonder whos putting these things together sometimes. Might be the same guy that lubricates CARC swingarm bearings. He's moved onwards and upwards.

    That's around 1.5 mm short of the shoulder.

    DSC00857.JPG

    Evidence of the bearing not running central on the race.

    DSC00858.JPG

     

    Ciao

    could be also some sort of quick bodging to position the shaft lenghtwise. You checked the shimming of the shafts?

  13. He're some pics from my 2017 experiment. This thingy cost me about 8 Euros, so there wasn't much to be expected resp. lost. The pattern was useless, the voltage regulator got burning hot, a complete failure I'd say.

    BTW: following this thread I learned I could have tried to adjust or improve the pattern somehow. The pictures below were taken with the bulb as it came from CN. Nonetheless, I still wouldn't expect very much besides "blinding" or burning me

    content_LED-bulb-CN141cd98a381fa824.md.j

    content_LED-bulb-CN_256a51d8035c0dedc.md

    Comp_Low7a494b64e7f38e37.md.png

    Comp_High54c88bf6af20cc4a.md.png

    Pattern_156b539f93214e715.md.jpg

    I do like their motto, though: "Open your eyes to accept the light!" - Guzzi Moto, they meant you :)
     

  14. 10 minutes ago, GuzziMoto said:

    ....As long as you are not blinding me coming the other direction as is so often the case with retro fit LEDs (and sometimes even with factory LEDs) it don't matter to me.

    That's the front side only, by night and by day. On the rear side, daytimes, you can't see the flashing LED indicators between the brake lights. VW Rabbit is a typical and infamous example. Don't know how they managed it to get these miserable things officially road worthy ...

  15. On 10/15/2019 at 1:30 PM, Lucky Phil said:

    I machined off the crimp. I dont know how contact cleaner worked for you as I tried that as well. After I disassembled it I saw how that wouldn't work for mine as there's no way for the cleaner to get to the switch cavity. The contacts in mine were just tarnished and it needed cleaning up with wet and dry. There was no evidence of oil or contact cleaner in the switch cavity so I assume there is a seal in the plunger section.

    Ciao   

    That's the standard procedure also for dead oil pressure switches. Same system, same problems. I'm using Uhu-Plus for this, a standard 2K Epoxy glue. Part of the problem are the small venting holes in combination with power cleaners like S100 or the like.

  16. 13 minutes ago, po18guy said:

    Well then, why not sit back and enjoy our labors and failures, or successes? ...

    We definitely do so. Definitely interested. Definitely not wanting to piss off anyone :) Really, in fact I'm a bit tired of reading or writing about different Hawker types for instance, I rather fancy a topic like this one

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  17. On 10/16/2019 at 1:29 AM, po18guy said:

    Since cooling is an issue with LEDs, I did a little experiment with an "Infitary" fan-cooled H4 bulb mounted in a Kawi EX500 headlight. Forget which beams I used, but after 1/2 hour and then 1+ hours, the IR thermometer read 80ºF - with no physical airflow except the fan....  

    While I follow your guys' experiments with great interest I follow them also with equally great scepticism. Cooling is a big issue because the issue starts directly below the light emitting stuff itself. A fan one inch behind the HOT spots cannot help if this primary bonding is somewhat suboptimal.

    So, being keen myself on finding a good LED replacement for my H4 bulbs I'm afraid that this won't happen. Mainly because of two reasons: it's more than tricky to pack several relatively big and hot LEDs on a spot small enough to match the reflector's geometry, second an H4 headlamp is a closed system, screen and mirror build a rather sealed unit, what makes proper cooling even harder.

    So my strategy would be: either keep it cheap and make compromises or spend bigger money and buy a reliable, lasting professional replacement headlight. But then it's 600 bucks and more, I guess.

    • Like 1
  18. Yes, it's not easy to be objective. The V7/V9 have a similar problem. While I'm looking down on them from my Tontis or from the V11 I think of them as a sort of toy bikes. Do I see them live, through the front screen for instance, I think of them as nice and grown bikes, different but well done nonetheless. I hope they'll sell lots of them, same for the Continental/Interceptor.

    But still, this egg shaped cylinders were a grasp in the loo

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