BrianG

I think your pressurization system is failing.......

Laminar pack is the laminated metallic stator core........ normally isolated (insulated) from the stator windings. Also normally, the stator core is at chassis ground, that is... not isolated from the chassis. Continuity with a stator winding connection would indicate a winding short-circuit.

DOH!!

That Roper is an idiot should be more than apparent to most people by now! After putting his stupid sump plate I no longer have any indication that my oil pressure light is functional!!

+1 Mine was doing this same thing and I wasted a whole day messing with the Fi system, thinking it had to be that. Nothing made much difference. I then thought to check the tappet clearance. It was way too tight, so I se it to Euro Specs and the reset the FI specs.... NO MORE BUCKING! THEN I read the instructions..... "Set valve clearance before setting FI ....."

I like the fact that the 6's stay nice and clean, contributing to easy starting. I have noticed no tendency to ping with my recent change to a richer fueling map, drilled air-box and Mistral cans.

1. Check the battery connections for tightness. (particularly the ground) 2. Check the starter connections for tightness. (particularly the ground) 3. Swap in known-good starter relay.

Wot??? They aren't married????

I just completed a HID installation in my 2000 V-11 Sport. The trouble with H4 replacement HID units is that the mechanical hi-lo shift device behind the HID bulb is too long to fit in the V-11 nacelle. I ended up using a less preferreed HID option.... that which piggybacks a quartz bulb for high beam along with the HID bulb which stays on all the time. The high-beam selection is not significantly different than the low beam setting as the quartz bulb is pretty weak. That said, the HID provided MUCH more light than the OEM unit. There and many "color" options in HID lighting. The higher the "temperature/color" rating number, the more "violet" the output color. If you prefer a less-blue color from your headlight, pick a "color" in the 4000 range. 6000 is very blue. 7000 is quite violet. Old eyes like cooler light.....

+1.... if it's quite subtle......

An '86 Lemans was my first Moto Guzzi. It's a great bike and certainly a MG classic. You might want to disconnect the coupled brakes if the previous owner(s) haven't done that yet, but if it's still coupled ride it that way for a bit. It's certainly interestsing! Be careful in your first hard right turn. When you roll on the throttle the engine torque will want to throw you down on the ground while the back end jacks up from driveshaft torque. A very weird thing the first time you experience it!

My money goes on the concept of "target fixation". As motorcyclists we know that you hit what you look at. It works for cars and aircraft as well. Draw too much attention and you become an unwitting target. My personal philosophy is "be apparent but not obtrusive". Seems to have worked for 40 yrs of motorcycling. That and "Presume that every cager is actually out there looking to kill you." This target fixation thing argues against those pulse-light headlight modulators.......... plus they are ghey!

I too was amazed at the difference that the change to Golden Spectro 125/150 SYNTH CARTRIDGE FORK FLUID made in the forks of the 900RR as well as the Marz Guzzi, although I never did get as low as 5w in dino oil in my experimentation. The biggest difference in the Marz forks resulted from the installation of a AK-20 Axxion Cartridge Kit and 1.10 kg springs

Safer?? How do you get that? I have Diablo Strada's on my V-11 and chase my son and his 'busa around the mountains all day long. Great stick with nice progressive indication of traction threshold. Clean recovery from slippage with no risk of hi-side. Excellent wet road performance. Decent wear characteristics. Great tires for a heavy sport bike!

Well, thanks a hell-of-a-lot raz!! Makes all the effort seem so worth-while!!!

No assumption. A spring compressed to any point short of deformation will not take a set. Implausible to the non-engineer or not Ratch.... it's the fact.

I think he died. Haven't heard a word from him since I sent him a hand full of paid-for Roper plates.......

They are like any other 80's high tech exotic that operates on relays.......... a stupid PITA to troubleshoot. My goal is to take this '87 928 from the stock 330hp to 500hp @ 10 psi....... What's that I hear ticking???

Sorry Ratch.... ol' buddy but your clearly off in the toolies on this one. That is IF the springs are made out of high quality spring steel, which I'll assume good old Guzzi parts are. Fact is that spring steel fatigues from motion. It is the repetitive stress of the load-unload cycle that does in the crystaline structure of the metal. A good quality spring compressed to any point short of deformation will not take a set.

Going To The Sun Road -Montana Rockies

Perhaps after I get this sorted.... Reprogramming new ECU maps sucks! ....................................but forced induction is nice !!

Sweet.... another maintenance item out the window! Almost makes sync'ing the TB's and setting the TPS worth the exchange!

I can't find TDC marks or anything through that little hole in the bell housing. So, absent timing marks, how do you set/check baseline ignition timing? I didn't see anything that would index the crank flange to the flywheel, but then again I wasn't really looking because I made my own paint marks on dis-assembly, so it buttons up exactly as it comes apart. It wasn't until I was looking for timing marks (TDC), after reassembly, that I discovered that they weren't where I expected. It runs fine so it's no big deal.... certainly not enough to crab the bugger again.....

Greg, in the first post you made reference to the older V-11's with no header-crossover possibly being affected differently by the Stucci / Mistral crossovers, due to the differing sizes of the confluence sections. Have you made any determination about this possibility? My 2000 V-11 is of the no header-crossover design. I am ready to order a crossover, but still a little uncertain about which one. I am leaning toward the Mistral at this moment in favor of some more midrange grunt.

I cannot, for the life of me, find the timing mark on my 2000 V-11 Sport. I did the clutch last year and was careful to realign the flywheel to the position in which I found it, but it did become apparent that the clutch had been done before I got there, so I guess it could have been clocked..... Is there some mark I am missing? I can do the degree-wheel / piston stop method to determine a new TDC mark for the current position of the flywheel, but I'd like to avoid this PITA proceedure if possible......