BrianG

I think you would have some trouble fitting 2 LED units into that vicinity of the annunciator panel, but it's an idea.

You can replace all of the bulbs in there with LED units EXCEPT the signal light indicator. That circuit reverses polarity to the bulb for each direction, so a LED will give you indication for only one direction or the other.......

Let us know how you like them! I had the left side bar-end weight turned down to fit one and couldn't get used to it, either. So I now have a CGR mirror and custom bar-end weight sitting in the bins. Anyone interested in giving it a go, give me a shout. On upside, I now have big, fat, shiny, stainless steel, Throttlemeister units in place!

It seems that the Porsche guys also use this spendy, heavy, Moly-grease.

Do cage applications use grease on the transmission input shaft splines?

I hope summer get here quick..... the cabin fever seems to be more likely fatal this year than in previous seaasons....

I can think of no mechanical issue other that than an air embolism that would cause this. It can be a bit tricky to bleed the master cylinder. I recommend retrograde bleeding. That is, force brake fluid UP from the slave cylinder bleed nipple.

They are known to get weepy....... I had my tranny out and apart when I did mine because I had a seep at the case junctions. It looks like you could hook it out and pound in a new one from the back insitu.....

I did mine last winter with the transmission out, but it looks like it's doable insitu. 0 It would be a heck of a lot easier if you pull the swing-arm.

It does suggest that some piece of this puzzle may still be missing.....

Yes indeed, your observation of a mid-production change is strong evidence of bean-counter interference.... did you notice the characteristic smell? No, I don't read Dilbert, dealing with patients daily is humorous enough.......

Is there any chance that the MG engineers actually designed the head-temp sensor system purposefully and contemplated the data delivery in the context of the sensor mounting method? I don't want to attribute any more intelligence to the design engineers than is appripriate, but really.........

I'm with Ratchet on this. Set the sags to determine proper springing, then lift the rear with the "preload" adjustment up to 2 cm (1 cm of shock extension). Get the narrower rear tire as well. "Preload" is a misnomer and only sets ride height until the system tops out, so there is easily 1 cm of adjustability in the shock for most riders. If you want to get radical you can chop 1" out of the spine and steepen the steering head angle 1 degree, and end up with a real motorcycle.....

I have mounted the Givi N141 WingRack to my 2000 V-11 Sport. To that I mount a pair of E21 top opening panniers and a E52 top case in whatever combination I require.... It's a tad cold to get pictures (-40 C/F tonite) but I'll get some pics of the home-bodged mounting system on here ASAP. It's simple and it's stable and it doesn't look too much like crap!

Very good point! Took me a while to figure this one out!!

Good info! +1 - some preload is critical to achieve appropriate assembly rigidity.

When you think about it, steering-head stem nut torque values are worse than valueless unless this value is attached to a particular motorcycle. The value at question is "bearing preload". Stem-nut torque translates to bearing preload by the multiplication factor of the steering stem thread pitch. I have seen much variation in steering stem thread pitches. I think the upshot of this discussion is to go one of two ways for tapered roller bearing equipped steering heads: FACT = Tapered roller bearing equipped steering heads REQUIRE some preload. Near enough estimate = torque the steering stem nut enough to slightly restrict the turning of the triple clamp. Measured estimate = torque the steering stem nut enough to create 4 lb ft torque resistance to steering head movement. Note........... both are estimates of the required values.

It has been my understanding that ball bearing require preload to create the necessary elipitical small contact patches of the balls in the groove of the race(s). This preload is dependent upon bearing size. If the preload is applied excessively, Bearing Fatigue Life will be short and will increase raceway noise as well. Bearing starting and running torque will also be high. If the applied preload is insufficient, fretting corrosion can occur. This happens as a result of vibration causing the balls to resonate and abrade on the raceways. Therefore, obtaining the correct preload is very important. It has been my understanding that roller bearings must avoid axial loads, and thus require zero preload. It has been my understanding that tapered roller bearings are a design compromise between the two previous types require light preload. Only enough to create a mild elastic compressive distortion, to positively locate the rollers in their races. This creates a very rigid bearing that resists displacement, and runs very true. I have generally used an old Honda preload method to accomplish "enough" tapered bearing preload. The exercise is to load the steering stem nut enough to result in a 4 lb. ft. resistance to steering stem turning. I do this by hanging a 4 lb weight on a cord, over a pulley, attached to a lever running across the fork leg clamps on the lower triple clamp, 1' from the center of the steering stem. This is simple and effective for a double tapered roller bearing steering stem assembly. You want some fun..... figure out how to preload an old VFR steering head, with a tapered roller lower and a ball bearing upper!!

I got the XD-1 before the DB or G-series gages were available. As well, the XD-1 allows me to feed/read data from the LMA-3 and TC-4 without peripherals. I have the LM-1 for temporary tuning installations, used with a tail-pipe sniffer.

My XD-1 has been extremely valuable in tuning my home-built autorotor mod for my car. Without it I might well have given up the exercise long ago! I now never see the rich side of low 12's nor the high side of 16........

Still.... how is the proper positioning determined? What is the result of improper setting?

How much is absolutely required for positive shifting?

I fixed mine by adding Traxxion Dynamics cartridges.

Indeed, this is the unit that I got for my OEM Magni fairing and it fits well.

My forum search reveals that the search for the holy grail of lighter wheels for the MG V-11 fizzled out in about 2004. Has anyone found anything suitable in the interim? Something with the cush-drive rear wheel?