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About Cliff

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  • My bikes
    1100 Sport Corsa, California
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia

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  1. All the ECU can do is provide the optimal fuel amount and correct timing, which hopefully is what is does normally. Assuming correct operation, the speed of an engine is going to be detemined by the throttle position and pumping losses (and other internal losses). Any variation to this by the ECU has to be non optimal. There is nothing more the ECU can do to make the engine run any faster.
  2. The problem with the RecIgnition is that there was insufficient interest for me to maintain any currency in it. That makes it hard to ship anything with confidence. I'd only just moved to the MkII board also but only sorted the digitial input version. I still have some parts and if someone comes across hard times trying to get their bike running I'll try and accomodate them.
  3. I don't know much about this unit but it appears to be one of the more sophisticated and looks to have a high engineering/marketing ratio. As for worthwhile that depends on needs and wants. If you are looking for performance the biggest limitation is the pickup device. Adding this to points is not going to give much benefit as the problem is predicting a future event. You want to spark before the points open if you are trying do electronic advance. Next step up would be dyna pickups but not the way they use them. They use them as points. When I used them with the RecIgntion I inverted the signal and advanced the pickup so as to get an accurrate timestamp before the event. Next up again would be an analog pick where the voltage slope can be used to get advanced warning. Finally multiple pick up points like the digiplex and ECUs.
  4. This is for pre-EFI systems. Your ECU has much more control over spark than this can provide.
  5. Cliff


  6. My pump went open circuit a while ago. The bike has 50K km on it now. If it happened after a clean it might just be some dirt/corrosion on the connectors. Easy enough to get to on the Sport.
  7. The hall effect is a voltage output. Anything else has been added.
  8. Interesting. Well spotted Roy. I think I will by one of these when I put my next order in with them. The 693-1002-ND claims 90 degrees.
  9. I concur with the others. 12.5V is not fully charged. I'd be looking for > 12.7. On the battery charger it should be going to over 14V. Given your other bikes you should be able to rig up a boost with jumpers. If that helps your start then your problem is found.
  10. There are many things that can affect the idle but mixture is the easiest to adjust. Are you running closed loop? There is more than one cell in the map that covers the idle. You probably have a column at 1100RPM. A fast idle will also be affected by the next column's settings and this one may not be optimal. I don't think there is a bad pulse but timing jitter from worn timing chain could be a problem. Try putting a timing light on the bike and see how sharp it is at idle. It will probably blur as you rev to 3000RPM. If there is a bad pulse then something is probably visible with the timing light. This will also show in the data from the ECU so have a look at the logs for any diagnostic messages. Please post your map so I can see if anything looks odd
  11. Hi Roy I tried to send this as a private message but it said you weren't able to receive private messages. I'm surprised to see this thread from you. It sounds like you have not been doing much tuning with the MyECU. Please let me know if you are having issues. Regards Cliff
  12. The voltage was ok, around 12.6/7 if I recall correctly. I put it on a charger first to be sure ( proper micro-controller based multi battery technology charger used for RC models etc ) and it didn't accept any significant charge before it dropped to a trickle. Prior to going with lithium it always seemed a struggle and that was an Odyssey also. I heard it mentioned that cleaning up brushes can help but the fact that the lithium doesn't have the issue suggests the battery.
  13. Wow, what a difference. With just the 2x4 pack in parallel, the cranking is back to normal. Even with the lower state of charge the lithium battery will maintain across the lead acid, they will still put out. It's a bit of a mess but it works. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1AiSuHdacfBekhuQm5ZN05rVXc
  14. I am now in no doubt to the vast superiority of lithium batteries. I've been running lithium batteries in my 3 bikes for a number of years. I got my batteries before they became mainstream and bought them off ebay from china. These were packs assembled from A123 cells from the US so not complete shite. In my sport 1100 I had a 4x4 cell pack and I'm not sure when I got them, 2011 or earlier. Anyway, unfortunately a couple of the cells died and as my ebay seller was rather infrequent in supplying these packs, and it seems the postal service is starting to clamp down on shipments of lithium batteries, I decided to go back to lead acid this time. I went for the Odyssey PC545. So went I went to start the bike for the first time with a brand new fully charged Odyssey, it seemed to barely have enough juice to turn the motor. Easily half the speed of what I was getting before and I was beginning to think the bike would not start as it took around 1/2 a dozen attempts. I think for the moment I'll stick the 4x2 pack I was able to salvage in parallel with the Odyssey. It will be interesting to see how this hybrid performs. Next time it will be lithium again.
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