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Cliff

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Everything posted by Cliff

  1. You should try and see how much load is on the system, lights, battery etc. This would involve a current measurement which is a little tricky if you don't have a clamp meter. See if any fuses are warm also. Sometimes a lot of heat can be generated from loose/coroded connectors.
  2. All the ECU can do is provide the optimal fuel amount and correct timing, which hopefully is what is does normally. Assuming correct operation, the speed of an engine is going to be detemined by the throttle position and pumping losses (and other internal losses). Any variation to this by the ECU has to be non optimal. There is nothing more the ECU can do to make the engine run any faster.
  3. The problem with the RecIgnition is that there was insufficient interest for me to maintain any currency in it. That makes it hard to ship anything with confidence. I'd only just moved to the MkII board also but only sorted the digitial input version. I still have some parts and if someone comes across hard times trying to get their bike running I'll try and accomodate them.
  4. I don't know much about this unit but it appears to be one of the more sophisticated and looks to have a high engineering/marketing ratio. As for worthwhile that depends on needs and wants. If you are looking for performance the biggest limitation is the pickup device. Adding this to points is not going to give much benefit as the problem is predicting a future event. You want to spark before the points open if you are trying do electronic advance. Next step up would be dyna pickups but not the way they use them. They use them as points. When I used them with the RecIgntion I inverted the
  5. This is for pre-EFI systems. Your ECU has much more control over spark than this can provide.
  6. Cliff

    Cliff

  7. My pump went open circuit a while ago. The bike has 50K km on it now. If it happened after a clean it might just be some dirt/corrosion on the connectors. Easy enough to get to on the Sport.
  8. The hall effect is a voltage output. Anything else has been added.
  9. Interesting. Well spotted Roy. I think I will by one of these when I put my next order in with them. The 693-1002-ND claims 90 degrees.
  10. I concur with the others. 12.5V is not fully charged. I'd be looking for > 12.7. On the battery charger it should be going to over 14V. Given your other bikes you should be able to rig up a boost with jumpers. If that helps your start then your problem is found.
  11. There are many things that can affect the idle but mixture is the easiest to adjust. Are you running closed loop? There is more than one cell in the map that covers the idle. You probably have a column at 1100RPM. A fast idle will also be affected by the next column's settings and this one may not be optimal. I don't think there is a bad pulse but timing jitter from worn timing chain could be a problem. Try putting a timing light on the bike and see how sharp it is at idle. It will probably blur as you rev to 3000RPM. If there is a bad pulse then something is probably visible with the tim
  12. Hi Roy I tried to send this as a private message but it said you weren't able to receive private messages. I'm surprised to see this thread from you. It sounds like you have not been doing much tuning with the MyECU. Please let me know if you are having issues. Regards Cliff
  13. The voltage was ok, around 12.6/7 if I recall correctly. I put it on a charger first to be sure ( proper micro-controller based multi battery technology charger used for RC models etc ) and it didn't accept any significant charge before it dropped to a trickle. Prior to going with lithium it always seemed a struggle and that was an Odyssey also. I heard it mentioned that cleaning up brushes can help but the fact that the lithium doesn't have the issue suggests the battery.
  14. Wow, what a difference. With just the 2x4 pack in parallel, the cranking is back to normal. Even with the lower state of charge the lithium battery will maintain across the lead acid, they will still put out. It's a bit of a mess but it works. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1AiSuHdacfBekhuQm5ZN05rVXc
  15. I am now in no doubt to the vast superiority of lithium batteries. I've been running lithium batteries in my 3 bikes for a number of years. I got my batteries before they became mainstream and bought them off ebay from china. These were packs assembled from A123 cells from the US so not complete shite. In my sport 1100 I had a 4x4 cell pack and I'm not sure when I got them, 2011 or earlier. Anyway, unfortunately a couple of the cells died and as my ebay seller was rather infrequent in supplying these packs, and it seems the postal service is starting to clamp down on shipments of
  16. Cliff

    MyECU

    I don't recall any problems to register recently. If you're having problem getting past the validation image, remove the XX left and right. Failing that I can set up an account for you.
  17. A bit of a coincidence that this happens so soon after changing the battery. Often there are multiple leads going onto the battery terminals. Maybe you missed one.
  18. I've not measured my mileage for a while as I usually fuel up from a jerry can but I expect better than 20km/l from my bikes. Anything less and I'd be looking for problems. Closed loop is very important for knowing where your mixture is at and keeping it where it should be if you have closed loop. MyECU will give you complete control over all the parameters but the easiest is to go closed loop and let it look after itself.
  19. You said yourself that your Breva got 45-50 so its not an issue of FI versus carb. The issue is whether the bike is properly setup and that goes for the FI too.
  20. Cliff

    MyECU

    I know of a tuner in Winton near Benalla who has recently done a Ducati 916 racer with a My16M. He made use of a dyno in Whorouly. Unless you're after race track performance that is overkill. It usually only takes a few iterations of map adjustments to get on par with the OEM but without the issues you might be having now. If you want to take it further, adding a lambda sensor and tuning yourself will give you excellent results for less money and greater satisfaction. Its even easier now the Android app I have developed and a bluetooth connection to the MyECU.
  21. Cliff

    MyECU

    I'm glad this topic is provided some constructive debate. Joe is a tireless promoter of small blocks. I see his informative posts on the yahoo group just about everyday. So I'm very keen to get Joe on the road and experience the MyECU the way it should be experienced. It's a shame that Joe has not had a pleasant journey so far. His journey would rank up there amongst the worst, especially given he was so close the first time. The distance, time and costs involved with sending goods around the globe doesn't help. I don't believe that anything can be made fool proof. You can have all the
  22. Cliff

    MyECU

    I'd just like to clarify that you you did get a response - "I think you've lost enough time trying to get the two kits together. It's probably best to get this to me so I can sort it out for you. I want to get you on the road." The mind boggles why you would ask such a technical query here.
  23. I would try running some injector cleaner in a tank.
  24. Hi Tim Send me an email, address on my contacts page. Let me know who the previous owner so I can determine where you're at. Make sure you ask questions and not make assumptions. Best advice is, if the bike is working well, don't touch it. Cliff
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