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Cliff

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Posts posted by Cliff

  1. You should try and see how much load is on the system, lights, battery etc. This would involve a current measurement which is a little tricky if you don't have a clamp meter. See if any fuses are warm also.

    Sometimes a lot of heat can be generated from loose/coroded connectors.

     

    • Like 3
  2. All the ECU can do is provide the optimal fuel amount and correct timing, which hopefully is what is does normally. Assuming correct operation, the speed of an engine is going to be detemined by the throttle position and pumping losses (and other internal losses). Any variation to this by the ECU has to be non optimal.  There is nothing more the ECU can do to make the engine run any faster.

  3. 21 hours ago, ScuRoo said:

    P.s. Just to seek clarity - is the Rec-Ignition module on or off the options table?

    The problem with the RecIgnition is that there was insufficient interest for me to maintain any currency in it. That makes it hard to ship anything with confidence.

    I'd only just moved to the MkII board also but only sorted the digitial input version. I still have some parts and if someone comes across hard times trying to get their bike running I'll try and accomodate them.

    • Like 1
  4. On 6/15/2020 at 10:26 PM, ScuRoo said:

    Touché! 🤣 

    I wasn’t actually meaning it had anything to do with the fuelling per se Chuck - I was rather noting they had been converted to carbs - hence the understanding ie., no longer requiring an ECU.

    Yep, Cliff is ridgy fudge.

    Care to cast an opinion for further information that for those Guzzi models that are pre-ECU (or converted) is this a worthwhile item?

     

    I don't know much about this unit but it appears to be one of the more sophisticated and looks to have a high engineering/marketing ratio. As for worthwhile that depends on needs and wants. If you are looking for performance the biggest limitation is the pickup device. Adding this to points is not going to give much benefit as the problem is predicting a future event. You want to spark before the points open if you are trying do electronic advance.

    Next step up would be dyna pickups but not the way they use them. They use them as points. When I used them with the RecIgntion I inverted the signal and advanced the pickup so as to get an accurrate timestamp before the event.

    Next up again would be an analog pick where the voltage slope can be used to get advanced warning.

    Finally multiple pick up points like the digiplex and ECUs.

    • Like 1
  5. 2 things .

    1 I was always uner the assumption that all TPSs were linear . 

    2 how can a hall effect switch pass / put out / emit a variable resistance / voltage ? I was under the impression it transmitted a square wave ( on / off ) , being more of a switch  and could not transmit a variable R or E (voltage) . 

     Does this now work as a variable capacitor ?

     

    The hall effect is a voltage output. Anything else has been added.

  6.  

    Digikey part no 693-1001-ND or 693-1003-ND look interesting, they have an output of 50mV to 4.5 Volts

    The curve doesn't have a knee though, it's strictly straight.

     

     

     

     

    Interesting. Well spotted Roy. I think I will by one of these when I put my next order in with them. The 693-1002-ND claims 90 degrees.

    • Like 1
  7. Cliff, the bike has been parked for over a year.

    No, the MyECU has been flawless, it's only recently been suggested that perhaps the CO needs resetting.

     

     

     

    There are many things that can affect the idle but mixture is the easiest to adjust. Are you running closed loop?

    There is more than one cell in the map that covers the idle. You probably have a column at 1100RPM. A fast idle will also be affected by the next column's settings and this one may not be optimal.

     

    I don't think there is a bad pulse but timing jitter from worn timing chain could be a problem. Try putting a timing light on the bike and see how sharp it is at idle. It will probably blur as you rev to 3000RPM. If there is a bad pulse then something is probably visible with the timing light. This will also show in the data from the ECU so have a look at the logs for any diagnostic messages.

     

    Please post your map so I can see if anything looks odd

  8. Hi Roy

     

    I tried to send this as a private message but it said you weren't able to receive private messages.

     

    I'm surprised to see this thread from you. It sounds like you have not been doing much tuning with the MyECU.

    Please let me know if you are having issues.

    Regards

    Cliff

  9. The voltage was ok, around 12.6/7 if I recall correctly. I put it on a charger first to be sure ( proper micro-controller based multi battery technology charger used for RC models etc ) and it didn't accept any significant charge before it dropped to a trickle.

     

    Prior to going with lithium it always seemed a struggle and that was an Odyssey also. I heard it mentioned that cleaning up brushes can help but the fact that the lithium doesn't have the issue suggests the battery.

  10. I am now in no doubt to the vast superiority of lithium batteries.

     

    I've been running lithium batteries in my 3 bikes for a number of years. I got my batteries before they became mainstream and bought them off ebay from china. These were packs assembled from A123 cells from the US so not complete shite.

     

    In my sport 1100  I had a 4x4 cell pack and I'm not sure when I got them, 2011 or earlier.

     

    Anyway, unfortunately a couple of the cells died and as my ebay seller was rather infrequent in supplying these packs, and it seems the postal service is starting to clamp down on shipments of lithium batteries, I decided to go back to lead acid this time. I went for the Odyssey PC545.

     

    So went I went to start the bike for the first time with a brand new fully charged Odyssey, it seemed to barely have enough juice to turn the motor. Easily half the speed of what I was getting before and I was beginning to think the bike would not start as it took around 1/2 a dozen attempts.

     

    I think for the moment I'll stick the 4x2 pack I was able to salvage in parallel with the Odyssey. It will be interesting to see how this hybrid performs.

     

    Next time it will be lithium again.

     

     

  11. I don't recall any problems to register recently. If you're having problem getting past the validation image, remove the XX left and right. Failing that I can set up an account for you.

  12. Your right Cliff so I see you use a "My ECU". DO you think that a V11 sport with a closed loop "My ECU" and set up for, lets say, 80 RWHP will get 40~50 MPG instead of 32~40 MPG?? Have you experienced much better gas mileage with your set up? Is the main difference between the Breva and V11 sport system the closed loop vs open loop system?

     

    I've not measured my mileage for a while as I usually fuel up from a jerry can but I expect better than 20km/l from my bikes. Anything less and I'd be looking for problems.

     

    Closed loop is very important for knowing where your mixture is at and keeping it where it should be if you have closed loop.

    MyECU will give you complete control over all the parameters but the easiest is to go closed loop and let it look after itself.

  13. I believe carbs are better than FI because of MY real world experience. I've put over 250k miles on various Guzi's and Ducatis and I have NEVER had one with inj that was better on gas mileage than the ones I've had with carbs.

    You said yourself that your Breva got 45-50 so its not an issue of FI versus carb. The issue is whether the bike is properly setup and that goes for the FI too.

  14. Mind if I throw another question your way? Is there anyone in se oz that can do the finetuning ? ( I live in gippsland victoria but would travel interstate to get the job done well) . A previous owner fitted madaz pipes to my 03 lemans, so it'd be a one off map I presume.

     

    I know of a tuner in Winton near Benalla who has recently done a Ducati 916 racer with a My16M. He made use of a dyno in Whorouly. Unless you're after race track performance that is overkill. It usually only takes a few iterations of map adjustments to get on par with the OEM but without the issues you might be having now. If you want to take it further, adding a lambda sensor and tuning yourself will give you excellent results for less money and greater satisfaction. Its even easier now the Android app I have developed and a bluetooth connection to the MyECU.

  15. I'm glad this topic is provided some constructive debate.

     

    Joe is a tireless promoter of small blocks. I see his informative posts on the yahoo group just about everyday. So I'm very keen to get Joe on the road and experience the MyECU the way it should be experienced. It's a shame that Joe has not had a pleasant journey so far. His journey would rank up there amongst the worst, especially given he was so close the first time. The distance, time and costs involved with sending goods around the globe doesn't help.

     

    I don't believe that anything can be made fool proof. You can have all the information out there but even then it will be missed. You can engineer against failures but in the end you just add all this complexity and move the failure modes elsewhere. Those who have compared the look of the My16M against the original ECU would readily agree that the original appears much more complex than the My16M. Yet it was the weakness of the original ECU that kicked off the MyECU. I'll stick to the KISS approach.

     

    As to making the MyECU available as a kit ( I'm talking generally now and not of Joe ), if you want to make a kit that will be the ECU of your bike, you should be pretty sure of your abilities both in construction and also basic electronics. I quiz people about their abilities if they show interest in the kit. This a response I recently got from someone ( truly )

     

    "Yes I do have experience with electronic kit assembly...just as long as it does not involve any soldering.

    I have built a few computers in my day."

     

    I'm going to assume the best and think he is a comedian but unfortunately some think that the required skill in kit construction is that of turning on a soldering iron and being able to melt solder ( again talking generally).

     

    Anyway, whether making the MyECU available as a kit is an option I have been thinking about for a while now.

  16. I asked on the MyECu forum, but have not gotten a response.

     

    I'd just like to clarify that you you did get a response - "I think you've lost enough time trying to get the two kits together. It's probably best to get this to me so I can sort it out for you. I want to get you on the road."

     

    The mind boggles why you would ask such a technical query here.

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