Cliff

That placement is fine. Thats where I run mine. The sensors have internal heater.

Try a MyECU first.

Have a look here. http://morini.com.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?...;highlight=pump http://morini.com.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?...&highlight=

First make sure you check fuses with a meter, not a visual check. There are 2 relays in question. The first is triggered by the key and supplies power to the ECU. You could check you get 5V to the TPS by removing the TPS connector. If the ECU gets power, it will energise the 2nd relay that powers the fuel pump/coils/injectors. Fuel pumps rarely fail. Mine did :-( You could check the impedance across the fuel pump terminal - probably a few ohms. Mine was open circuit.

Its a replacement. I don't know what they connect to those ports. My 97 Sport has them as well.

MyECU will work with one or 2 sensors. Power Commander's approach is to disable o2 sensors. Sensors generally have an 18mm thread. The ones on your exhaust are test points only. Not for the sensors themselves. Does yours have a sensor in the crossover?

MyECU should improve your standard setup ( remove misses etc) but as with all ECUs they can only allow you to approach what the engine is capable of. They can not increase the power past what the engine can produce.

Morris, when you buy a unit, I'll come up for another visit. You're lucky to have Mark nearby. It makes the initial learning so much easier. g.forrest, is that Cagiva based on a TL1000? I have a MyECU that may work with that.

You'd have to be talking about Mark Gilmore's bike wouldn't you? There can't be many Guzzis in Kempsey. Probably just the 2 of you. If so, its not a PC its my My15M. If its not Mark ( gawd 3 guzzis in kempsey? ) then you might want to track him down.

One of the relays supplies power to the ECU and another to the coil injectors. Perhaps vibration is interrupting supply. Try putting the originals back in.

Just note with the phase sensor, they have shim washers to get the clearance just right. The main thing to check is you have no contact with the rotor.

Try this test. Key on, wait for prime to finish, crank for 1/2 sec. Do you hear prime now? If not it sounds like the phonic sensor (rpm pickup). I'd try jiggling connectors.

Would the coating insulate thus making the metal hotter? Would this make it significantly weaker?

If you can't check it for yourself, get a 2nd opinion. I'm in Australia too mate. If you come around I'll take a look at it. Post Edit: We'll I'm confused, only a few weeks ago you where telling us how sweet things were since Pete Roper sorted your bike. A TPS doesn't become unservicable just like that. Then you're queering temp sensors. Who said your TPS was cactus?

Excellent, wish I'd thought of that.

Hi all, It should be noted that there are 2 temperature sensors in the system, air temp and engine/oil temp. Both sensors are identical ( same NTC thermistor ). The sensor itself is unlikely to fail. What is most likely is that due to corrosion or wire break, the effective resistance will increase ( colder ) or be infinite ( bloody cold ). Failure of either sensor is likely to cause the over rich mixture. The best check to make is to check the resistance of the sensor from the ECU connector. If I'm not mistaken the sensors come in on pins 4 and 18 of the 15M connector - http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/pics/My15MMkIII_PCB.png Measure resistance to ground on pins 22,23 or 24. These are usually connected together in the ECU but with the connector off, you will need to see which of these to check. Try Carl's schematics. The resistance to expect is here - http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/temperature.htm but the easest check is for a cold engine both the sensors should read the same

The metric is l/100km which is an inverse of the mpg. It is not km/l

Try standing next to one trying to tweak with the Optimiser, exhausts glowing and feet getting very warm thru boots. Thats why I have changed my dyno technique to something more conventional to what my site still says.

That AFR is what people use when aiming for best power. I would think 13.5-14 would be better for economy.

It could be the cable has broken and it seems to work most of the time because the break snags but occassional releases.

The first thing anyone should do here is to make sure the bike is setup properly. The main things here are the throttle balance and TPS. The TPS setup affects both the mixture and spark advance so make sure it is done right. If it still pings after correct setup, try the TPS tweak. Adjust it to increase the voltage a smalll amount, say 10-20mV. The will increase the mixture and also retard the ignition. It may also increase your fuel consumption.

The starter motor operation is independant of the ECU. It should turn over without an ECU connected.

http://www.phpbbforfree.com/forums/mggriso-forum-1.html

Yes. It could have been a molten mess. The harness is covered in heat shrink or something. I would cut into part of it, being careful not to cut the wires, so as to have a visual on the state of the wires.

The ECU has 2 power feeds. One is permanently wired and is causing your drain. The other is keyed and is the one I use on the My15M. Maybe the permanent one can be removed. But it may like to keep itself powerd for updating its own flash at times.