biesel

Peter Hughes ("Huzo") posted this on the US Wildguzzi forum - impressive:

https://shop.daes-mototec.com/images/Artikel_PDFs/Lenkerstummel DÄS - V11 LM.pdf Instructions in German ;-)

When I had me V11 Le Mans Rosso Corsa, I mounted DÄS-Mototec handlebars. You can see them here: They are quite expensive but were worth every cent. https://shop.daes-mototec.com/de/Fahrwerk-7/Lenker/DAeS-Lenkerstummel-Kit-fuer-MOTO-GUZZI-V11-Le-Mans--alle-Mod--V11-Coppa-Italia---Scura---Naked-02-.html

I just test rode the CalVin with my "homemade Laminar Lip" yesterday. The buffeting and the wind noise is a bit less but I could not feel a difference to my test-setup with tape.

From the piece I have cutt off of my second windshield I have created my homemade "Laminar Lip". I will test this solution next week. The 3M Duo Lock pads should stay untouched for 48h if possible. I must admit this looks ... strange...

I wrote in another thread that I was impressed by the V85TT engine/gearbox. This engine should be used for all smal block Guzzis. Will we ever see a new 1100 or even 1200 ccm engine?

Buffeting and wind noise is always a topic when you have a windshield. Unfortunately the shape (radius) of the Vintage shield seem to increase this. My first idea was to shorten the windscreen (I bought an used one for testing). This did not work at all. Wind noise and buffeting got worse. I cut off 11 cm at the top so the shield top was approx. on the height of my neck. Maybe this solution works for tall guys. So the the right way to go seems to be a taller shield. Then I added the piece I cut off to my original windshield: I adjusted the height (+3,5 cm) so that it was still possible for me to look over the shield. Result: Better than the original windshield. The easiest solution is to bring the original shield in the most upright position. I had to cut off a bit of the shield above the headlight and I had to enlarge the upper holes of the holders (12,5 instead of 11,5 mm) With this procedure I have no buffeting up to 120 Km/h. You still have wind noise but a bit less than before. Next step: Homemade Laminar Lip Original: 90% 80% 80% & shorter 110% My conclusion: 110% will work best

No you do not have to turn the lambda probe off, this is part of the map. I think you can find info here: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0

I was curious ... so I took the chance to make a test ride at my dealer yesterday. Man this is a great bike, I did not expect this. The engine has enough power for such kind of bike. The engine and the gear box work super smoothly and even if it is simple the chassis is extremely efficient. My dealer (https://www.clauscarstens-racing.de) told me that he was also very skeptical about it at the beginning. He feared that it was a similar lame duck as e.g. the V9 Bobber. But even if the motor looks similar it is a completely different engine. Unfortunately my dealer gave up his Guzzi dealership after decades because of the poor Guzzi portfolio. He is also the biggest Ducati dealer here in northern Germany and this was not an easy step for him because he is also is a fan of the Guzzi brand like it was in the past. The current California models and the small Guzzis models simply do not sell up here. But after testing the V85TT he decided to sell those...and it works. He already sold 11 this year which is a lot for a Guzzi model. They are selling like hot cakes and do not even reach the showroom. While I was riding the red one another one arrived - already sold.

The CO-Trim setting is extremely importing when the lambda probe is switched off on the 15RC - it couly have any value then. Mine was at "-180"! I used TunerPro and set mine to "0". The XDF file 15RC_EEPROM_V1.01.xdf (https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/xdf/15RC_EEPROM_V1.01.zip) worked for me.

I have another hint for you ... The struts of the front fender have different lengths, not much but a bit. If they are mounted in the wrong position (like on mine - short one towards the engine) the tire will rub a hole in the fender! I ordered an used one at TLM which seems to have the same problem in an early state. I discovered a lot small things when overhauling mine in the winter 2018/19. Some where caused by Luigi, others maybe by the owner or his dealer. Treat your CalVin with more respect & love than the previous owner.

Still listening to Rush again and again since Neil´s passing.

No special tools and absoutely no force - otherwise you will damage the bearing. I have deleted parts of my text because I remembered it incorrectly. Just follow the steps in my slideshow and then you are done. My first try mounting the u-joint and the bearing was a failed attempt because I tried it the traditonal way. I mounted the bearing in the swingarm first but this did not work. The bearing has to be mounted on the u-joint first in this case.

Hi Martijn, replacing the fuel filter is really a fucking nightmare, I hope my YT slideshow did help you.

Here is my defective u-joint (at only 38.5000 Km): I have bought my new one here: https://hmb-guzzi.de/Universal-joint-complete-with-shaft-Cali-from-2001-on This is the original part from Elbe for a decent price.