wambiker

Found out it was the altenator, two of the windings had melted and collapsed. £300 from Guzzi, £110 from electrex, £95 rewound by west country windings, who turned it round in a couple of days, and due to better quality wire and winding reckon it will have a better output than original. When I fitted it and tested it the output voltage was about 10 volts ac, higher han it was, and stronger at the battery at abot 13.5 ish. Cheers Gary

Just done a similar trip, a dozen bikes everything from a vmax, my pan and v11 to ducati 749 and two wild hogs. We did Liverpool to Fort William, then 3 days belting around including lunch outside the applecross inn in sunshine, then back into murke over the pass. All the other bikes set off for home friday and I set of to scottish rally. Then v11 threw its hand in no charge to battery and coughed and spluttered to halt. Eventually arrived at rally in hire car, the recovery insurance reckoned it was cheaper to give me a hire car for 4 days then recover bike during the week(it arrived home safetly yesterday), than have the scottish company take me home??? Liverpool from Inverness is a bloody long way in a 1.2 corsa!! Mind you one of the wild hogs a 650 drag star ate its own front cylinder, compression down to 50 psi, we did warn him about coming out to play with the big boys. But at least he got home on his bike (even if it was at 50 mph-not that much slower than the bloody corsa). Cheers Gary

Hi I use a Garmin 2610, and although I have changed bars the mounting would work with original bars I think. All the parts are available from RAM. Hope this helps Gary

Hi, the 9 volts is in a wire that as far as I can see should have no volts in it at all. It is the wire from the flasher can back to the fuse box, and the voltage reading is from the dead side of the fuse holder not the supply one. I think there mast be a couple of chaffed wires somewhere but will have to wait till the weekend to have a good look. Cheers Gary

Hi all, just a quick question for anyone who may have come across this problem before. I have changed all the original indicators for smaller arrow types, bulbs not leds, and have replaced rear setup with a home made tail tidy and led tailight. Initialy everything was fine but then the indicvators started to flash slowly, and also the taillight pulsed with the indicators, just like an old ford. I changed the flasher can and made up all new earths back to a good chassis earth. The indicators still flashed slowly, but had a trip I was leading over the last couple of days so had to try and manage,then on tyhe second day the indicators packed up all toge

Hi all, just a quick question for anyone who may have come across this problem before. I have changed all the original indicators for smaller arrow types, bulbs not leds, and have replaced rear setup with a home made tail tidy and led taillight. Initially everything was fine but then the indicators started to flash slowly, and also the taillight pulsed with the indicators, just like an old ford. I changed the flasher can and made up all new earths back to a good chassis earth. The indicators still flashed slowly, but had a trip I was leading over the last couple of days so had to try and manage, then on the second day the indicators packed up all together, on getting home and checking there was live feed to the can, but nothing coming out, bridged can terminals and had light on each side as I operated the switch. So obviously a dead flasher can, no great problem there, but on checking the fuse supply to the can, with the can out and fuse out, there is 9.0 volts on the can side of the fuse! I am assuming a wiring problem around the fuse box or a problem with the fuse box itself. But before I pull everything apart has anyone come across this before, or if anyone has their bike handy and a meter is this normal (I know it sounds odd, but would just like a second opinion before I start chasing a problem that doesn't exist). Cheers Gary

Hi Raz, thats exactly how I did it, but instead of 15,40 & 80 volts I got 5,9 & 15. Thanks for the help. Cheers Gary.

Hi all, I was coming in from a ride a couple of days ago and the alternator light came on-2000 v11, and refused to go out at any revs. Having gone through the melting fuse, blown battery and knackered regulator symptoms twice already. The last time this happened replaced all the wiring from alternator to battery with heavy duty cable and fuse holder and terminal, so I know this is ok, so suspected regulator, again! Started at alternator the same as usual, to discover instead of the usual 10-80 volts ac, I am only getting about 15 max, I know from past experience that there is little that can be done with alternators when they fail, unless anyone knows different. Are all the v11, and similar engines-calis etc all the same alternator. Any help or ideas gratefully received. Cheers Gary

Thanks again all, I've got the bike back on the road, I bought pattern levers, new head protector and other bits and pieces. I've also filled and repainted the rocker cover, and polished the worst of the damage out of the exhaust. I had a look at the ducati pegs and they fitted fine, but just didn't look right, so as I had picked most of the broken bits up I've tig welded the peg back together and it looks fine. The rear brake pedal was machined from billet by my brother in law, after the original got broken , but I welded that up as a spare so that's on again and I'll have a go at welding the replacement when I've got time. That just leaves the scraped tailpiece, hope another one comes up on ebay, I saw one only a few weeks ago. Cheers Gary

Thanks for the info, I'll ring some of the local Ducati dealers this morning. I won't be able to make Ken Bridge I'm in the IOM from Monday to Saturday, but have a great time anyway. Cheers Gary

Thanks for the warning about the cases, there is no sign of any leakages and the engine has been run since, but I'll have a close look and check it out. When is Ken Bridge, sounds like fun, as I say I've not been online much recently I have not kept up with events. Cheers Gary

Hi all, I've not posted for a while but have been riding my V11, done 40000 miles now, but yesterday we both hit the floor hard. Fortunately we seem to have survived , battered and bruised but still here. On a country road in Lancashire-for those in the UK, Larry the Lamb and his best mate suddenly shot out from under a hedge, nowhere to go and hit the bugger. Bike went down and highsided me onto the road and then a grass verge, just missing a stone wall! Bike has bent bars, broken brake levers and r/side footpeg, destroyed head protector, plug cap and plug, and big gouges in the exhaust and tail piece, but will be back together for next weekend. I have most of the bits already from either bits and pieces I've collected or pattern parts such as bars from my mates bike shop. Just need a footpeg to make it rideable. I was looking at my brother-in-laws monster and the footpegs appear to be identical but with a rubber finish, will have to look into it next week-though being ducati will probably double the price:-). Cheers Gary

Hi Mick welcome if a bit belatedly, I live in Crosby so this must be forming a colony . I've got a 2000 green v11. Possibly meet up some time. Cheers Gary.

I tried a set of Knox undergloves but found a) not that warm and a lot of arsing about every time you stopped and had to put both pairs back on . I then bought a pair of Gerbing Classic gloves, these are fine, much warmer and a lot less hassle, they have been used in below zero weather and worked ok. They are even fairly waterproof. I also use a set of BMW handguards from one of the GS range in the winter, by keeping the wet and wind of your hands the gloves have an even better chance. I also have a pair of gerbing socks, they are brilliant, sometimes you have to turn them down as your feet start to cook, definately the best piece of winter clothing I have ever bought. Gary

I'd be interested as well, as like Martin I missed the Erin rally, and the V11 breakaway group this year. Gary

Hi, glad you had a good day, I finished instructing about 1.00, and went back out to Bala, Blanneau, and round to capel curig, lanwryst, and home. With the lesson in the morning and the afternoon run I was knocking on 300 miles when I got home, but then thats what Sundays are for. Gary

Bloody well done, bet that has pi@@ed off some sports bikes. Cheers Gary

Hi, I met a fellow forum member at the Ponderosa cafe in Wales (UK), this morning, but I was in the middle of instructing on a bikesafe scheme, and forgot to ask him his forum ID. He had a BM and a V11. Just wanted to correct my bad manners, and hope you had a good day. Cheers Gary

Hi I've got a Garmin streetpilot 2610, with a RAM mount on the left hand mirror base, so that I can see it when the tank bag is on. This model has been updated by 2620 and I think a 27?? model. Mine has no internal battery (2620 does) and relies on a power lead, either from the bike, or from mains(included with kit) which is useful for downloading routes from the garmin or memorymap software. It has settings for specifying roads, type, speed of journey etc, also search facilities by name and postcode, and has a speed camera overlay. It is good and gets used in the car as well-just done 2500 miles in Europe, It is not infalable, but very useful, especially for not having to wrestle with maps on the bike. The main thing I have found with this and some other units is you can not just throw them on and expect to get the best out of them. I reckon it took me 3 months of regular use to sort out the facilities and details, and also learn to interpret exactly what it was telling me. I have heard some good things about Zumos but not a lot of good opinions for tom tom riders. We have quite a number of different models in use in my club, but garmin streetpilots and quests are the prefered models. Hope this is of some help if a little late. Cheers Gary

Hi, 2000 green sport 30500 miles, 1 shock,2 regulators and 2 batteries. But still makes me smile when I come out off the house Cheers Gary

Have a look at the following link, I converted my V11 to bars using the original top yoke. The article and pictures explain. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=5778&hl=

Hi Martin, it was the regulator, when the new one arrived all the values across wires and to earths where completely different. There is also no discharge to the regulator, and I'm getting a nice healthy 14.5 volts to the battery. The knackered new regulator is going back to electrex on monday. We'll see what they say about it. What's this gone geocaching now? is this instead or as well as rbr. Cheers Gary.

Having discovered the battery was going flat due to a 0.7 amp discharge through the regulator, I rewired the main feed from the regulator to the battery and put a new fuse holder in, this cured the melting 30 amp fuse due presumably to resistance at the fuse connections. This did nothing to cure the discharge, but it was charging OK, so for the last couple of weeks I've been pulling the main fuse to stop the battery going flat. Today went out and the alternator light came, and the meter I've wired in temporarily showed there was no charge coming from the regulator. The alternator is putting out the correct outputs as per the manual, but nothing is coming out of the regulator So I've ordered another regulator and this one is going back for testing and hopefully a refund when they find it's knackered. Should be here tomorrow, as I need the bike to instruct on a police bikesafe scheme this weekend. We will see if this finally cures my electrical woes. Cheers Gary