Murray

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLEG2YMAQgs Even a Moto Guzzi reference!

Dunno if anyone is following in but in last 24 hours its suddenly got really serious. (still no where near me BTW) http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2011/01/12/3110921.htm

The shop in question may have had a minim charge of 1 hour.

Flooding also around the Canarvon area/gascyone river not as bad as QLD well less people affected might be a better way of putting it. Fortunately not near either places.

I'm thinking he means compared to a litre bike but yes a big bike it also has DOHC according to the owner which is wrong. At least he actually liked it and didn't say it was a steaming heap of poo that only the unhinged with too much money will buy.

Dunno about over there but the local historic club now has rule 25 and rule 20 categories which covers machines 20 and 25 years old I could see places with a much larger population base having things like rule 15 which would include things like the 1100 sports.

Why would anyone want your left testicle?

Push polling much, I may have moved hypothetically for the purposes of the questionnaire .

I don't want to go to the length of dropping the engine from the frame, at least not in my lock-up, but everything else would be within my capabilities. I need somthing that gets the wheels off the ground and raises the whole bike so its easier to work at. Thats why this lift seemed appealing as it does both, but I'm a bit worried about the narrowness of the lifting surface, and that's not entirely unjustified, see Steve's post what I could do is fit a two rods to the bottom plate of the lift that are in line with the bike, so it wont tip forward or backward so easily. hmmmm Depends on the space you have but a basic ramp platform and a couple of paddock stands will do what you want it to do. The stand originally posted usually rely on sitting on the bottom frame rails of the bike. Mainly seen them used on cruisers and ATV's I suggest if you want something a bit more than paddock stands save your dollars for a bit longer and get a full platform.

Just switched to BT023's can't comment on life they've only done a 100kms or so. They do steer and grip quiet nicely the 016's I replaced always felt a bit tucky through the front end below 70kph I think its something about modern tyre on a bike with old geometery.

Nother righty.

Crazy? more like blind and dyslexic. you'd have to check the handle bar diameters the actual switchgear itself would be too much of a problem its the wiring and associated relay logic associated with the BM gear. Wires that currently run the rh indicator would need to be changed and the cancelling system on normal bikes is a simple mechanical system where as for the bm you would probably need some kind of relay arrangement.

Contact your local raceshop/people who do the local racing series suspension setup and tuning. Fair bet there will someone who can have a look at it and can do it. Generally they can be rebuilt.

Toying with the idea, will have to sit down a do some serious maths to see if its viable.

It did have the Ducati reg till all the smoke came out one night. It now has a Accel one for a HD now admittedly I never tested with the Ducati reg I replaced the reg then looked up the specs to ensure it was working as advertised. It was spot on and has been there for over ten years and 100 000kms. As far as I know the charging systems are the same. The other thing to check is put the negative lead of your voltmeter on a metal earth or even better the case of the reg and see if there is a variation, if there is its an earthing issue.

14.6 is the specs out of the 1100 sport workshop manual. I don't run any electrical accessories although the headlight is hardwired on.

You should see 14.6 volts plus or minus 0.2 volts @ around 5000 rpm it shouldn't get any higher after that. Things to try instead of testing directly across the battery test between the positive of the battery and a good metal earth, engine ,voltage regulator case etc. If there is a significant difference between across the battery and the direct earth you have a dud earth. So remove the regulator bolts give them a good clean as the regulator uses the bolts as earth. Also where the negative lead bolts onto the frame clean tight free of corrosion and a good metal to metal contact. If there isn't much difference between the frame and the negative terminal of the earth it might be worth chasing the charge line through the loom and check any connectors it runs through again clean, free of corrosion. Some charge lines run directly onto the starter motor power lead so check that connection as well (drop the negative lead off the battery when messing with these ones otherwise you may end up arc welding).

Doh!! anyone know of a supplier that has the breather kit for their deep V sump (already have the sump) 2 valve motor 1100 sport if its important. Were their instrument's specific to them?

Tried going to their site the other day wouldn't load/ either i have an old irrelevant web address, my ISP was having a hissy fit, they don't do internerd anymore or the unthinkable they are not around. Anyone shed some light/like to post a current link, cheers!

Don't always use the clutch on the MGS going up its fine once the gearbox is run in on a new gearbox it tends to argue a bit/doesn't want to do it. I do still unload the drive train though. So momentarily back off the throttle with the gear lever preloaded change when it wants to back on it. The biggest problem with the older Guzzi's and the five speeders was if you got one of the neutrals lurking in the gearbox with no rev-limiter it was very easy to bounce and bend valves and do other damage. The six speeder does it relatively easily weather there is much to be gained from it dunno.

Couple XL long sleeves pref black but whatever is going providing it isn't white. Saw the word swag an though we were doing motorcycle size V11branded canvas sleeping rolls now that would of been cool, T shirts will do though.

Look up setting your static sags (be on the web somewhere) without your springs right there is pretty much no hope of getting the damping settings right. After your static sags are set then is normal to start somewhere in the middle with rebound set a little harder (say 2 clicks) than compression. But as others have said there are no such thing as "factory settings".

In hot environments vaseline tends to melt and run off the stuff it was supposed to be protecting. I now use Lanolin / Lanotec (wool grease) for these purposes works pretty good IMO although you have to allow it to completely dry before applying power.

Hi I am interested in getting some PVM wheels for my bike I tried contacting them and have not seen a reply admittedly it was only in english. Have you got a good contact for PVM?