pasotibbs

You catch the Gondola at the Bluebird Cafe which has this memorial outside which was the temporary headstone in Coniston cemetery until it was replaced by this one. The restored Bluebird may be returning to Coniston next Spring as permission has been granted for a 100mph run before it goes on display, so it's worth looking out for this as it may be the only time it will run !!! The replica in the Lakeland motor museum that was built for the film "Across The Lake" (starring Anthony Hopkins) is pretty impressive so the real thing actually running will be worth seeing!!!

It only takes six of these bags gets it around the Lake !!

A Victorian Guzzi boat!! Steam Yacht Gondola,Coniston Water, the Lake District Left Cylinder Right Cylinder

When you get the rear wheel off the splines are visible but it's worth removing the cush drive cover (use a very good fit allen key and if available some heat to soften the thread lock)then cleaning and lubing the whole cush drive assembly as MG didn't !! While there you can, if you want, do the dreaded cush drive mod (pages and pages have been dedicated to this topic.....)

Nice bike Not to add to your worries but as you've got a "new" V11 it would be worth sorting the rear hugger so spray off the back wheel doesn't get onto the rear shock etc. (I fitted a ZXR750 hugger from an autojumble upside down inside the existing hugger) Other than that just ride it and deal with things as they happen

It maybe a caliper seal issue but sometimes air can become trapped in the master cylinder , slightly loosen the master cylinder banjo bolt and squeeze the lever with a rag held to catch any fluid drips(fluid or air should leak out) tighten and repeat a couple of times, then wash the area with water to avoid any fluid on paint/plastic issues !!! Don't think the V11 is too bad but on some bikes the calipers bleed best if they are held so the bleed screw is at the highest point to avoid air locks. good luck hope you make the TT ok.

Sounds like the sidelight/parking light bulb, its probably blown and darkened the glass.

Looks like mine does(apart from the carbon ) there may be better fitting extenders available but if care is taken then the Triumph fit can be very close.

I fitted the Triumph one, it isn't a perfect fit but its very close.I used some small mushroom headed allen caps instead of the plastic rivets supplied,I'll take some pics and post them if I remember when I get home .

So far I have been unable to find an alternative that will keep the Gen warning light.I put the last failure down to bad luck as I'm sure others here have used this product with no issues but after the second failed in exactly the same way..... It may be that the "improved design" resolves the issue, we will see !!

A heat gun softens the compound and it is then possible to remove it bit by bit while it is still hot,but once it cools it becomes solid again.

I'm now on my 4th Electrex World Reg/Rec !!! The first failed after a few months (Gen light on, not charging) and was replaced under warranty,the second was outside warranty but luckily the third was within.The reason for this post is that the second and third have both failed in exactly the same way and when I contacted EW and described the fault they informed me that my replacement would be "an improved design", the replacment does appear externally slightly different but time will tell !!! The last two units have both shorted out (the body of the unit has become battery +ve) but luckily I ignored the installation instructions and fused the Battery +ve so possibly prevented a loom fire !!! The last one actually totally discharged my battery (it hasn't recovered, so has had to be replaced)but didn't blow the fuse the first blew the fuse. I removed the potting compound from the Reg/Rec this afternoon and as I suspected the problem is exactly the same as last time with a short between the +ve part of the board and the body(it's only approx .5mm clearance) with evidence of scorching visible in 2 or 3 areas and when these areas where cleaned the short was cured. I suspect water may get in between the potting and the unit body and the corrosion eventually leads to a short but I'm open to other ideas, the redesign implies that it may possibly be a known issue ? just a heads up for anyone who has one of thes units Dave

Crossover

Good, I didn't realize that the LED stayed on so thought I'd best mention it just in case....

Just in case you haven't realized yet, the low fuel light needs to draw enough current for the thyrister in the tank to heat up when not covered by fuel.If I understand correctly an LED will not draw enough current to work but I imagine a resistor could be added to fix this ? I just thought I'd mention it and save you a long push to the filling station

Thanks for that,that's the one I used last time, it looks like its for a 1990 BMW 320 if you car spares shop can't look up part numbers.If I remember correctly I went through the parts book at my local car spares shop until I found the correct thread size and switch pressure but could not remember the details (I think I kept the box somewhere and was going to hunt for it) but now I can get one on my way home tonight edit I've just checked and the box I had kept has part number 50720, so this may be the correct one. edit of the edit !!! 50720 is no longer available but 50570 is, the spec looks similar so should be ok.

The oil pressure switches are prone to failure as they hate water(it gets in past the connector)so if you ride in the wet they don't last, I've just killed mine again just by washing the bike,not jet washed, just a bucket and sponge !!(to be fair it wasn't a genuine part) There is a BMW switch that fits, it switches at the same pressure but has a spade not bullet connector, I can't remember the model. My Ducati used to have the same problem, riding in the rain for more than a couple of hours would usually result in the light coming on dim and eventually the switch would fail.Ducati have a modified switch with a waterproof connector(stolen from a Fiat or Alfa no doubt) that can be retro fitted so hopefully it should be fixed, the Guzzi uses a different thread so this switch can't be used .

Welcome, you have the same bike as me as Jaap says it's a 2001 model that must have sat in a showroom for a while as that colour is 2001 and it doesn't have the balance pipe between the header pipes that later bikes had. The common suspension mod is to replace the Sachs shock as its pretty poor and in the UK we've had a few fail on the bottom joint due to corrosion(mine included),check this for cracks!!! (Hagon do a replacement for around £250) and then respring the forks for your weight or have them rebuilt (Maxton around £400) I managed to get an Ohlins rear shock for mine(big improvment)but haven't done the forks yet. I got a anti-slip cover for the pillion pad from M&P or MPS(Triboseat £20)that works very well. I'd remove the PC, set the valve clearances and TPS then see how it runs without it, plenty of people here have PC's so will probably be able to supply you with settings that work if you find that it is required. Battery light is a common issue (again corrosion due to our weather !!)remove the tank and look for the wires from the Reg/Rec the connections will be corroded. If it still does it then a new Reg/Rec may be required (around £70) All the info is here Dave

I grew up on that side of Sheffield so know it very well, and the A57 to Ladybower is still part of my usual ride out route.The Snake is now a 50 limit so only worth riding for the view,rather than for fun of it but probably safe to "make progress" in the week rather than at the weekend when the power rangers are out on their R1's etc .

If you post the same question here you may get more responses.

If you get an after market X-over they have a mounting for your sensor, be aware that the sensor can't be too close to the cylinders as it will overheat.

I may be wrong but I believe the later cans had small Catalytic converters in them ? If your bike has a lambda sensor in the crossover then I would be inclined to keep the cans stock and maybe buy replacements but you'll find fitting a Mistral crossover will alter the exhaust sound/volume slightly so try this first as you may find that is enough ? If you mod the airbox lid you'll get a lot more induction noise,if you get another lid you can put it back to stock if its too loud!!

That's probably about average,it is like you say "a piece of string" question, if you use the rear all the time it'll be worn out in no time but if you use it mainly for slow speed stability it'll last a lot longer but ultimately the pads are very small, even when new are not very thick and the V11 is very heavy !! If I remember correctly the caliper is off a small scooter (50cc?)and its way smaller than the caliper/pads fitted to the rear of my lighter Ducati!!!

You'll find that rear pads wear out very quickly even if you use the rear brake normally !!!

In the UK you can't smoke in Pubs or even in a company vehicle (ie works van). We have a ban on all NHS property so smokers(staff and patients) have to stand on the street.