pasotibbs

My Red/Grey has a CF dash.

I was once told that heli-coils were developed during WW2 because the alloy threads holding Spifire wings on failed in high speed dives Not sure if its true or not ?

MotoMecca have Mistrals I'm sure that others will suggest more. Have you considered flying via LA as you may have more options/better prices in the US ?

That works out at 9.2 miles per litre and 42 miles per UK gallon. I worked out that my Lemans was doing approx 44 MPG (UK) so it may not be far off ?

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Legs ZZ top ?

Check the wiring under the tank, the connectors don't seem to like our climate much

Astalites are like Honda's Comstars in construction and were a popular after market wheel option with kits available for many bikes (my Ducati has a pair) Hesketh's had them and they were actually made here in Sheffield !! very much sought after for classic racing

Honda's tribute to the worst of BMW's designs perhaps ??

Yes, if I remember correctly the ball sits between the lever and the button on the switch.

+1 on all the above,. Also as its not been mentioned it's possible that the torque reaction of the engine may play a part if you change the engine speed quickly mid turn (ie upshift , downshift or use big throttle changes ) I've never noticed it myself but then my riding style is to corner with a constant or slightly opening throttle whenever possible !

+1 for the valves How does it run when warmed up ? If it seems "off"(erratic idle etc) it might be worth checking the inlet rubbers for leaks ?

I believe that they are not available from MG (you have to replace the entire arm) but I'm sure there was a tread about replacing them with bushes from a car ? Thread here I think most people replace the arm with one of the lovely anodized aluminium arms that are available(not that expensive). http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=torsion

Check the external linkage first, the joints may require cleaning and oiling. If you remove the starter (remember to disconnect the battery first) you can easily check it.

I'd say just about any BL product of the 80's !! I always liked the official BL solution to water in the Allegro's boot.....take a drill and make 2 holes in the floor !!!

Almost certainly water in the sensor, my Ducati used to do it all the time if ridden in the rain for any long distance, the V11's done it once so far. I'd replace the sensor but waterproof the new one as much as possible as water seems to get in between the connector and the plastic part of the sensor.In the past I've tried to get the water out of the sensor by drilling a small hole in the plastic (near the connector) and using WD40 and then switch cleaner but they've never been reliable afterwards.

Get the bike back if you can,a length of car heater hose can be used to get the bike mobile [i made one for mine and it still seems ok after 2 years,but I don't do many miles!!] and then you can then buy a new one or as others have said a trip to a breakers yard may supply a suitable replacement from a car.

What happens if you disconnect the regulator wires as I suggested ? If the lights stay on then you may have a short between the regulator side of the 30amp fuse and the regulator itself somewhere in the loom but perhaps in (or most likely below) the fusebox itself? It might be worth looking at the dash light wiring to see where the +ve feed is coming from when the ign is off then you can trace it back to its source ?

I'd remove the tank (remember to remove the fuel pump relay to avoid the risk of spraying fuel if you power the ign circuit ) then with the ign off disconnect the wires from the regulator until the dash lights go out (+ve,-ve ,dash light and the 2 generator wires if I remember correctly)if it doesn't have any effect then the fault may be elsewhere, it may be as simple as a short in the wiring around the headstock ? When my replacement regulator went faulty last month (30 amp fuse blowing) I discovered the regulator case was live due to an internal short , with a heat gun I was able to remove the potting compound and see a burnt area between the board and the case maybe due to water getting in ?

Yes of course it does

Perhaps its because the V twin "breathes" heavier than a flat twin due to the changes of crankcase volume ?

Engine oil leak may be from the breather pipe on top of the engine,it goes from the rear of the engine up to the frame near the coils/headstock. I think this does throw oil all over if it splits so may be worth checking ? Hopefully the gearbox fault is just a selector issue and easily fixed. Dave

I think someone here used a heat gun to soften the plastic so the mirror could be removed ? Maybe extra weight could then be added to the casing, mirror itself or both in a more controlled way?

Have a good look around to see if there is any damage to the casing if none are visible then I'd drain the gearbox oil that remains(if any) and see what else falls out! If big bits of metal fall out then its bad and like the others have said, take off the side cover and have a look inside. If you get a small "christmas tree" on the magnetic plug (tiny metal filings) its probably not terminal some metal here is normal. The gearboxes have been known to act up if they get really hot (as in your situation) and then behave normally when they cool down again but your's throwing its oil out sounds more serious. One possibility is that if you've ridden in the rain (well you do live in the UK!!) spray off the rear wheel may have got into the 'box (a known fault) and then when it got hot turned to steam and tried to get out again throwing oil everywhere ? It may be that replacing the gear oil will cure it, but I'd be tempted to remove the gearbox cover and check/clean inside before riding again (you can also change the Pawl spring while your there) If everything checks out then I'd use Redline gear oil as others here suggest. Dave

The fuel light bulb needs to draw enough current to cause the thyrister to heat up when not covered by fuel so it may be worth looking at the bulb type used (it may be an LED).