kecup

I think your TPS has an open circuit at the end normally grounded. I don't know how that would happen unless they wound it too far backwards perhaps. If you pull it off it should measure 3000-5000 Ohms between two wires no matter where you turn it and it should change from 0 to maximun between each one of the previous two and the third wire. If you have one wire with no connection at all its screwed I'm afraid. Do you mean the TPS is shorted somehow? Heres the link to setting it http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204

Do not know, they said they've cleaned and repositioned it - assuming you have to take it out for cleaning. The TPS is a very simple device, just like the volume control in a radio. You may be measuring the voltage on the wrong wire One is allways +5, another is allways zero, the third wire Voltage varies in between, with the throttle opening. If you look at the ECU plug the wire going to pin 11 is the one to monitor, slice a little insulation off it and measure from there to ground. Another way is to drive a dress pin thru the wire and connect your meter to that We did the measurements among all the 3 wires, all possible combinations, using a digital voltmeter - two wires do 5V regardless of slider position, one is nothing. We used tiny dress pins to punch through the insulation. What do you make of this? Will have new TPS on weekend - we shall see.

We measured the voltage for the whole afternoon, all possible combinations among all the three wires, TPS in place, TPS taken out of the TB but connected (in this case the different positions made by rotating the TPS manually), slider only after disconnecting from TPS. We used digital voltmeter. Results: two wires with 5V or -5V regardless of what we did with TPS, one wire with nothing. I did not take the bike back because I was leaving the country for three months, have other bikes which I ride instead and have more important things to do on Sat morning. I was also extremely angry with other aspects of this service (like brand new paintjob mysteriously scratched on two places while the bike was at the shop, cylinder oil leaks and so - I just did not want to argue with people - one reason I went to this shop was their reputation - some of a cold shower to my experience:) But that's okay. If there is an airleak why the problems disappear completely (together with idle:) when the throttle butterflies are set fully closed at idle? But anyway - will have the new TPS for weekend - hopefully we shall see the light at the and of the tunnel:) Really appreciate the advices. Pavel

Will be on it again this weekend - thanks for useful tips.

Me? Not really, but a friend of mine who fixes german cars for living should know, I guess:)

We measured the voltage for whole afternoon, all possible combinations among all the three wires, TPS in place, TPS taken out of the TB but connected (in this case the different positions made by rotating the slider manually). We used digital voltmeter. Results: two wires with 5V regardless of what we did with TPS, one wire with nothing. I did not take the bike back because was leaving the country for three months, have other bikes which I ride instead and have more important things to do on Sat morning. Was also extremely angry with other aspects of this service (like brand new paintjob mysteriously scratched on two places while the bike was at the shop, cylinder oil leaks and so - just did not want to argue with people - one reason for going to this shop was their reputation - some of a cold shower to my experience:) But that's okay. If there is an airleak why the problems disappear completely (together with idle:) when the throttle butterflies are set fully closed at idle? But anyway - will have the new TPS for weekend - hopefully we shall see the light at the and of the tunnel:) Really appreciate the advices. Pavel

Do not know, they said they've cleaned and repositioned it - assuming you have to take it out for cleaning.

Thanks a lot - will do that. Pavel

Fuel actually seeps from the intake after the bike runs on idle - I am assuming the fueling is constantly in the mode "throttle fully opened". 5V is what goes to the TPS. My experience is the following (I might be wrong - my mechanical knowledge is next to none): 1. After the service at MG Classics the bike run, with poor idle and with a nasty habit of RPM hanging after one closed the throttle (by this I mean exactly that after closing the throttle, the engine RPM remained at 3-4th. for some 3sec. before going down slowly). Bike needed opened throttle to start. 2. I called back the shop complaining about poor idle (half of the cases the bike died in traffic after one closed the throttle), and was told by the owner that I should always hold the throttle opened a bit:) 3. I decided to increase the throttle RPM by turning the screws on the throttle body linkage. This allowed more air into the intake on idle, via opening the butterflies a bit. Bike had reliable idle now but developed a very dangerous habit - when hot in traffic, with CLOSED throttle, the RPM would steadily rise all the way to 6th., no going down, one always had to kill the engine to gain control. So I think the excess fueling (if this is the case - we will have to check with new TPS) on idle was manageable at the expense of the full closure of the throttle butterflies (and resulting poor idle). When I set the idle higher by opening the throttle butterflies a bit (via screws on the linkage) - air was allowed into the intake and mixed with a lot of fuel made the engine run independent of the throttle. By carefully tuning the throttle bodies one can find a balance between the two - bike has poor but some idle, and the uncontrolled RPM rising is more or less manageable. One puts it totally out of control when trying to increase the idle by allowing more air into the engine. I should mention that I never had any problems with the bike before the service and I got the bike from them that is a plain danger to drive. Pavel

Hi everyone, it seems the TPS on my 97 1100 Sport-i has failed, after an unnamed local guzzi shop performed a top end rebuild which included TPS repositioning and cleaning (so I was told). The bike never run proper after the service so after putting some 50miles only in more then a year I decided to investigate. No matter on what position the TPS is the voltage output is always 5V, never the .140V recommended for the idle position, or any other number. It appears I need a new TPS, checked MGCycle but no success. Where could I get one? I am in Los Angeles but will never deal with MG Classics again. I can do with used TPS, does not need new one. My Sporti has the TPS mounted at the top of throttle body. Pavel

I checked thoroughly if there is any throttle hanging but it seems not. The throttle snap closes and the bike holds the RPM and then slowly drops them long after the throttle mechanism at the TBs is fully closed. The problem gets worse when the bike runs hot. When one idles the bike at higher RPMs -so the engine gets hot, and then opens throttle to say 3000RPM, the bike holds that RPM all the time after the throttle is fully closed. When you turn off the engine and start again, the RPM respond to the throttle closing but with the usuall 2-3seconds lag. Think I need someone to tune the bike, what a crap. Forgot to mention - I have power commander installed. I am not sure how this effect things but surely the local "expert" knew this when he played with the bike.

Thanks for advice. If there is an airleak this would be permanent, correct? Meaning that the RPMs stays up all the time after I close the throttle. My problem is more time restricted, when you close the throttle at, say 3000RPM, it stays up for 1-2 seconds before slowly dropping to the idle. The bad idling may be just because the local expert who tuned up the bike set the idle to 800RPM. This guzzi just does not idle reliably at less than 1000RPM, cold or hot.

PM sent, thank you.

I live in Los Angeles, the cylinder heads have been rebuilt with new valves installed and the bike was tuned up afterwards. The throttle position sensor has been adjusted - they told me they have cleaned it and repositioned it. The problem appeared AFTER the work has been done. Thanks for trying to help.

Hello to everyone, a local well known shop has done a big $$$ tune-up on my 1997 1100 Sport-i only to leave the bike with an idle so low that it does not idle at all half the time, and (more bothersome) a throttle hangover. This is manifested by the RPM hanging high for some 1-2 seconds after one fully closes the throttle. This feature practically eliminates the engine braking and makes the actual brake braking interesting as well since the bike wants to run when rider would like to stop (by closing the throttle and sqeezing the brake lever). Changing gears gets a bit funky at times since the gearbox is not quite unloaded when one closes the throttle to operate the clutch and change the gear. Problem is that the local experts lost the ability - according to their own words- to deal with the new (just for 15years:) guzzi's fuel management so no possible fix there. Not mentioning the trust issues after the new paint job on the bike was mysteriously (since no one knows how it happened) scratched at two places while the bike was at the shop. Which leaves me on my own, if only I'd know what to do? Tried to manipulate the throttle position sensor but it is hard without actually knowing what to do. Kecup

Ever since I took this and realised how good it looks compared to when exhausts are mounted, I've had thoughts about making an MGS01-like exhaust, or getting a Quat-D. I agree, thought removing the original canisters would make the bike look lighter (rear piece fairing looks bulky enough:) and more aggressive. But it was hard to get it, since Quat apparently stopped making them for V11 Guzzis. Took some 12 weeks to get the exhaust from Italy.

had to remove both the ground facing frame pieces that hold the exhaust normally, drill the hole through the transversal tube for the mount that holds the box, cut the existing QD mounting bracket in half, and put it all together. Not too complicated.

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some more pictures with better resolution

Hi, attaching some pictures of my 1997 1100 Sporti. Picked the bike in summer of 2008 in Santa Barbara, CA - neglected and stock, short of Termignoni exhaust and sheep skin seat pad:) Rode it like my Duc for some time, crashed it twice, and finally decided it deserves a makeover. Below is a list of things done to it: new front rotors; Power commander; custom paint job with original MG vinyl stickers; powdercoating on wheels, tripple trees, valve covers; forks rebuild with tube anodizing (sorry these are no Ohlins); Rizoma grips; front blinkers integrated into the handlebars; rear blinkers integrated into the rear lamp which is now LED; Moto Spezial speedo/tacho (both sides blinker LED works with the help of bridge rectifier, fuel gauge is LED with the original bulb serving as an additional resistor); velocity stacks with K&N filters; QD exhaust; Beringer brake master cylinder + clutch perch; top end rebuild (at MG Classics); drive box rebuild (at Zydeco racing); Agostini shaft torgue arm; carbon fiber mirrors; seat recovered in leather; aluminum pegs, brake and shift levers; many other things were polished, chromed, most of the engine and frame bolts replaced for stainless.......... It might not be the best looking Sporti but surely one of the most expensive:) I value most the great practice this gave me, have very little mechanical background and a parking lot instead of a garage. Pavel

Hi, I changed the price since was not terribly certain on details, and do not really want to blame someone. I dropped the bike exactly for this: 1. removal of the wheels for powdercoating (old paint stripping and powdercoating did myself) 2. removal of the tripple trees and fork for powdercoating (powdercoating did myself) 3. installation of the Beringer master cylinder and clutch perch (I supplied the parts) 4. installation of the Hella bar-end blinkers and Rizoma grips (I supplied the parts) 5. new tires front and back 6. welding of the cracked gearbox mount (easily removable on my bike, not part of the gearbox) 7. steering damper change, turned to be $100 or $150 for a used unit, do not remember exactly It took the shop 2 weeks to remove wheels and fork, then I had the parts for powdercoating for a week (Monday to Monday), then they were putting everything back for 3 weeks. Paid $2451 total, I do not know how much were parts and how much labor. I only went for the accessories installation because they promised 40$/hour rate on a big job. Was charged $70 and told I am lucky getting a discount. Anyway, turned that for the master cylinder they lost the Beringer's reservoir holder and hardware (which of course I supplied) so they simply got a piece of ugly old green hose and used the original brembo reservoir (fabricated some kind of holder too). Due to the reservoir's shape they installed it the way that it could possibly accumulate bubbless in the middle of the hose. So after getting home I got mad and got rid of all the old hose-reservoir-holder crap, made trip to Beringer again to get new holder and hardware, and fixed it. To this date I wonder how much the (complete unnecessary) reservoir holder fabrication cost me:) Hope this clears things. Left fork leg seeps oil from the top screw, seems someone forgot to put back that tiny seal that goes on the fork cap:) Although I was mad at the beginning right now I am well over this. Restoring the bike for some 2 years and this is not the only not-so-great experince. But that's life.

Had the bike at the shop for some upgrades, I went for this mainly because was enthusiastically promised very interesting $45/hour rate for the entire job. Ended up at - still discounted - $70. The difference made up some 800bucks - yuk! What else - it took a month to service the fork, remove and strip the wheels for powdercoating and install new grips, blinkers and levers, pity I had to finish the latter myself - the master cylinder reservoir was installed all wrong.

Can say I've had a lot of similar thoughts and experiences. But I like my S4R Monster for what it is and the same applies to my 1997 1100i Sport. I like diversity as soon as the bike is exotic, beautiful and has character. With MV Brutale for 4cylinder of that quality and Benelli TnT for 3cylinder my garage would be complete. Working on getting MV now:) Kecup glad you did not get the Beemer, my friend has R1150 rockster and he likes it a lot, it is economical and never disappoints. I can not say that about Ducati or Guzzi but I love them!