guzzijack

Itchy trigger finger maybe because I don't need any for my sub 600 bhp bikes. GJ

+1 on that. No need for an 'unobtabium' solution to a non-existant problem. A 6mm drill will sort it. BTW. Any chance you can provide us with some details of how these Suzukis are getting 300 - 600+hp it sounds fantastic! (probably is then!). GJ

Steel gears for big block Tontis Limited run commissioned by a GB Guzzi Club member. Pricey? Well maybe, but compared to ally gearsets, a shagged engine and having Pete on your back everytime you mention them No! All spoken for I believe. GJ

Looks like a hand gearshift to me. Possibly with a foot operated 'suicide' clutch (note lack of lever on left handlebar) or maybe the lever at the top operates the clutch? If that latter is the case then it looks as if there are no foot controls at all given the lack of a rear brake lever.... interesting. The whole bike looks like an homage to 1930/40s era chops with a sprinkle of updated stuff. Very well executed if not to everyones taste. GJ

Could well be - I've seen it 2 years running at the Trofeo Rosso @ Le Vigeant circuit in July. I'll be there this year so if I get the chance I'll ask a few questions about it. GJ

What 2 carbs per side? Maybe like this one. A very trick bit of kit. GJ

Generally speaking I have found that the type of carrier used has an influence on the likelihood of getting whacked for import duty. Nearly everything that has come to me via UPS, FedEx, DHL etc. has been hit with import duty at 6% of the value of the goods plus 17.5% VAT chargeable on the total plus the carriage. Then the carrier may add on an extra charge to cover the admin of collecting the duty! I've never had duty imposed on any item sent via US Postal - delivered by Royal Mail - but I bet that will change now that I've mentioned it As pasotibbs has noted, it's always good insurance if the sender can be creative in their description of the goods - 'Customer's goods returned from repair' or something similar often helps. GJ

Have you tied this mob Woods Auto Electrical price shown is retail. A place called Simba Electricals on the North circular in London repaired my son's Valeo for about £70 with 6 months warranty. These places have cropped up before on the MGCGB website forum as offering good service as well although I've not used them myself: Amps Auto Electrics(Starter and Alternator Specialists) 4 Park Lane Totenham London N17 02088086757 Lewisham Auto Electrics Gj

If it's the same as other big twin Guzzis - why wouldn't it be - it's a Valeo DR6A. If you do a Google search there are lots of cross-references to automobile use from Fiats to Citroens via Opels and Renaults but you may have to swap over the cogs as not all will match, although the motor body and windings appear to be the same. Here's a description of how to do that Rebuild and swap GJ

Check the battery - look on the various related threads here. GJ

The EFI manual was produced when the P7/P8 & 16M bikes were current, so I doubt that the codes refer to the 15M bikes as they have always had diagnostic software available to interrogate the ECU - so no need for a more primitive 'blinking light' system to find out what could be wrong with the system. The part number given in the original message for the 'simple tool' is the check lamp which features in the last few pages of the EFI manual, which performs the same function as the on-bike diagnostic lamp. GJ

Ha! me as well - I did the usual, 'rip it all out of the box and read the instructions later', thing and used the M/C setting a couple of times before realising my error. I guess the AGMs need the * snowflake setting because they require deep charging before going into 'tender' mode. GJ

The socket and jumper plug are fitted to the P7/P8 and 16M ECU bikes with the check lamp already hardwired and located in the underseat area. Check out the system and full list of error codes in the Guzzi EFI Manual which you can dowload from Pyro Dan's Website - just right click on 'P7-P8 EFI Workshop Manual' GJ

Oh yes - I guess you're going the same way as me then Current projects are V11Sport engine in LMV Tonti frame for the street and a roundfin endurance racer with chopped Tonti frame using a V11 Sport timing cover - very similar to this one: Have a good look at the V11 clutch and flywheel components as I think you may find that they are lighter than even the most radically drilled earlier 8 spring unit - check out the figures at this link on Guzzitech - not sure how much lighter than a ten spring Sporti clutch though, but maybe a bit if it's the same as my V10 one. This is a Tonti framed racer you're building isn't it? What gearbox are you using the 3 dog one from the Sporti - or something else? GJ

If that's the CTEK 3600 I'll second that. Best battery charger/tender I've had. I use the one unit with additional fly leads purchased from Hein Gericke permanently attached to 3 bikes and shift it around every couple of weeks during the winter. GJ