Frenchie

Ok Thanks for the insights. I have gone back and checked. It seems the play is between the gearbox and the output shaft. The UJ seems to be fine! Thanks again, Paul.

Coming late to this conversation, but I just pulled out the swing arm on my V11 Nero Corso tonight for the first time since new (2005!). There seems to be a bit of slop in the drive when I twist it one way and then reverse it. Is this normal or how can you tell if they are done? There is only 6k miles on the bike. I didn't notice anything when riding the bike. Contrary to what I was expecting there was plenty of grease on all parts from new.

CoreyTrevor, Well if you ever come to Ireland you would be most welcome to stay at our house ! Your explanation is very helpful, though I’ve packed in for the night, I’ll have a go at it tomorrow. I came to the same conclusion regarding the small eccentric clearance as having a Gap didn’t seem to make any sense apart from perhaps allowing for heat expansion. Can I use a stick inverter welder to weld on a tab, or should I braise on a tab? Sorry for all the questions, but I’m very grateful for your help! Paul

Update! I’ve straightened the arm which had a bend and twist in it and polished all components and reassembled. On the bench, the selector seems to work fine (just as before), but I have not figured out how to position the eccentric adjusters. At which stage of travel does the clearance need to be measured? I’ve read and re-read Luck Phil’s post several times but I can’t figure out where to take these measurements and at what stage of travel. If it’s not necessarily a question of measuring the clearance, what other ways are there to set up the eccentric adjustments when it’s on the bench. Thanks Paul

Thanks all again for the inputs. Before I start welding, polishing, filing, straightening (all of which I'm happy to do), I haven't yet figured out how I know if I have made the right changes or improvements before reassembling and riding it again. I have the selector on the bench - see this short video of it being operated just now . You can see from the video that the selectors (at least to my eye) seems to be working fine. So can anyone identify what specifically I am doing wrong? Are there specific clearances for the small eccentric adjuster? Where do I measure the 0.7mm clearance on the large adjuster? Since my issue is only on shifting up the box, which of the adjusters affect this? Is it possible to say which direction that adjustor should be rotated to address this specific issue? Lastly how do I remove the plate which ties the two selector wheels together? Thanks - Paul

Thank you so much for the helpful replies. I have managed to get the spring replaced. The arm looks slightly different to other pics I have see as there is a specific mounting point on the arm where the spring seats, instead of just bent around the arm. I'm presuming this was a later design. To address some of the replies - the dots align on the selector wheel when the gearbox is in first. I also noted that both of the adjusters can be adjusted externally, at least on my bike. Others have commented that the smaller adjuster can only be accessed when the selector plate is removed. I just did a test ride and the gears seem to select well, and neutral is easy to find. However, I noticed that I had a few false neutrals in 4th & 5th. I also noticed that that the false neutrals only occurred when using the clutch to shift up, when I shifted without the clutch, it engaged perfectly. Can anyone suggest which of the adjusters might be affecting this? I didn't change the large one, but inadvertently changed the smaller one, so I had to reset it by testing the preselectors. They seemed to work fine at that stage, but the road test gave intermittent false neutrals..

Well I finally got around to replacing the pawl spring and retrieved the broken part. However, when I rode the bike home, I think I had finished up in 3rd gear. I have the gear selector cover off the bike, but can't figure out how to get NEUTRAL ! Can anyone explain to me what and how to do this? I presume I also need to align the two geared selector wheels situated in the cover. Thanks!

Thanks again! If anyone can figure out where to find the original photos, that would be very helpful.

Ok - thanks guys - I was confused because the gear shifter was still positively sprung, so I thought that there may have been a different issue. I'll have a go at replacing it - I have a spare one bought. Thanks again!

Driving home on my Nero Corsa V11 (2005) Le Mans, I downshifted into 4th and then couldn't down shift or change gear. However the gear shifter remained "sprung" - and I found (as I was 3 hours ride from home) with some experimentation that I could change gear if I accelerated hard then quickly decelerated, and at the critical moment, I could upshift. Not exactly an easy process, but it got me home. So my question: is this a symptom of broken pawl spring or are there different gremlins at work?

Just back from 10 days around France - had same oil light problem on my new Nero Corsa 05 model - with just 2000 miles on the clock Dealer told me "they all do it" - happens during rapid acceleration from standstill - sometimes light stays on even in 2nd gear Been told I should be using 15/50 Semisynth oil - was using 10/40 semi - any other suggestions? New to Guzzi - lovin' it!