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quazi-moto

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Everything posted by quazi-moto

  1. I've always used 93 octane fuel in my goose and never experienced any pinging until recently under hard acceleration (like overtaking a vehicle on the highway) she'll ping a bit. If I drop down a gear it seems to help, but I don't want to keep running it like this over the long term.
  2. My idle speed according to the tach is right at 1000 RPM. I'll do a little poking around and check some of the things that were mentioned in this thread. Thanks for the feedback.
  3. Please pardon my ignorance, but where is the crankcase vent located?
  4. My charge indicator light has begun to flicker occasionally at idle. Is my stator crapping out or what?
  5. Do all pods require the removal of the side panels? If I have another tank insulation issue in the future I might switch to pods, but I'd like to keep the side panels if at all possible.
  6. I bought a preamp for my turntable when I got the 5.1 receiver and to me analog recordings have a warmth that CD's lack. The surface noise is tolerable on most of my old vinyl LP's. The crazy world of Arthur Brown never sounded so good!
  7. I gotta agree with Skeeve on this one. Put in a sloppage sheet and call it a day.
  8. Even the top photo looks better than mine. My paint is all bubbled and blistered. I've even been accused of overheating the motor!
  9. Aside from all the science (smoke & mirrors, perhaps??) am I safe to ride the bike with the FPR port vented to atmosphere?
  10. Now I'm hearin' ya. The stock intake snorkles. Well in my case a whole strip of insulation (approx. 6" x 12") got sucked down onto the open filter completely covering the top of the filter. It was literally pasted to the filter and I'm amazed that it it still ran, but then again injection is not like carburation. With regard to the hoses under the tank should they just vent to the atmosphere? I don't have the carbon canister anymore. I seem to recall that the bottom fitting on the fuel pressure regulator was never connected to anything in the past.
  11. I'm not sure what you mean by two small holes and rubber nozzles. I did notice the two small fittings under the tank that had hoses attached before I dismantled the tank. The fittings almost look like grease fittings, but obviously they're not. One of them was jammed full of crud and I used a tiny drill bit to clear it out. I also took a rubber bulb syringe thingy (douche, if you will) and blew out the hoses. The one attached to the cruddy side had a bunch of wet crap in it. Does this one connect to the fuel pressure regulator at the bottom? That's how it was connected after I got it back from having it serviced, but I don't remember it being like that.
  12. Well let's see. When I was pumping Sunoco 260 back in '79 at my part time job it was rated at 106 octane. I think the octane rating might just have something to do with detonation. Unleaded fuels have a lower octane rating primarily because of the absence of lead. In addition today's pump gas may contain oxygenates and/or alcohol. I suppose you could argue that good combustion chamber design, piston dome shape, valve layout, etc. can alleviate some of the effects of crappy gas, but I think most manufacturers have known for a while that high cylinder pressure and modern fuels are a recipe for disaster.
  13. Well I have toasted the injector relay probably about four times now, but the fuse on that circuit has never blown. For that matter I've never blown a fuse yet on this bike. I probably still have another problem unrelated to the insulation thing. Aside from the fuel pump and injectors I'm not sure what other components could be overloading the circuit. I'm surprised really that the relays have cooked and not the fuse.
  14. Yep, I pulled the tank off and lo & behold a big strip of insulation was pasted to the BMC filter. I'm surprised the bike ran at all! Now, what's the hot ticket for gluing the insulation back on? Some type of spray adhesive? I noticed that the rest of the insulation could stand to be re-glued, at least near the edges.
  15. The PF4C has a slightly different voltage curve, but seat of the pants difference isn't noticeable IMHO.
  16. Seems like pretty impressive gains, but with today's fuel I'd be concerned about detonation.
  17. The only difference I noticed with the stock ECU is that it would rev slightly higher before the onset of break-up, but other than that not much of a noticeable difference between the stocker and the My15M. I'm going to pull the fuel tank off the first chance I get and have a look at the air filter. How critical is it to keep the insulation?
  18. Does Racetech carry fork springs that will drop right in an '02 LeMans?
  19. I've got the Ferraci open filter kit, X-pipe and Staintune cans. I tried a PCIII and the results weren't what I had hoped for so I got a My15M ECU from Cliff and IMHO it works much better. The bungs on the stock exhaust don't have compatible threads for oxygen sensors, but some of the latest X-pipes are available with proper bungs. The My15M can be configured to run closed loop, but I'm still running open loop on my bike. I've never dynoed it, but it pulls much harder than a stock LeMans.
  20. I pulled the plugs last night and the right side plug was completely black and sooty. The left side plug looked a little better, but darker and blacker than usual. Its definitely running rich. I checked a few other things like battery voltage and the amperage at the fuse for the fuel pump. I didn't check the TPS yet. I'm going to attach either my laptop or the Optimiser and check for feedback from the various sensors. I'm also going to pull the fuel tank off. Its kinda weird how it runs pretty normal up to about 4,000 RPM, but beyond 5,000 it has no balls whatsoever.
  21. I could also attach the Optimiser to check the feedback from the sensors. I'll start with the basics first. Battery voltage, sensors, TPS voltage throughout the operating range, air filter, etc. I'm going to pull the plugs too and see if there's any noticeable difference between the two. It might even be a faulty connection somewhere. I've gotten caught in the rain a few times over the past couple of weeks.
  22. stormsedge, I do have a Ferraci lidless air filter so you might be onto something there. I'm going to pull the tank off and have a look. dlaing, I just had the fuel filter replaced so I'd have to guess that its something else. Cliff, I've had your unit for a while now and you did the map for me after we had exchanged several e-mails. It ran like a champ for a long time with the My15M. I swapped the stock ECU in today and went out for a shakedown run (in between the rain drops) and the bike is still breaking up on the top end. My gas mileage has been terrible and when my friends are behind me they tell me that my exhaust is stinky. I've already fried 3 or 4 relays and its always the one on the injector circuit. Each time a relay has failed its always been hot when I removed it. Not hot enough to burn flesh, but pretty darn warm to the touch. This is why I suspect that there's an overload on that particular circuit. I'm still running open loop also.
  23. My '02 LeMans had been running real well for a while, but the other day it started acting up in the higher RPM range. I thought that a possible culprit might be bad fuel so I ran some Sea-Foam through it and ran through a few tanks of fresh gas, but its still exhibiting the problem. I have also toasted a few relays (GEI & Omron) and its always the one on the injector circuit. I can only surmise that this relay is being overloaded for some odd reason. I'm wondering if I should replace the injectors now or what? I can't leave my goose running like this. I can barely overtake cars now. I might try pulling out the My15M ECU and put the stock ECU back in just to see if there is any difference. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated.
  24. The pods do look like the dog's bollocks, but after all my trials & tribulations with the fuel injection on my V11 I'll probably stick with the FBF lidless air filter.
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