docc

Lots o' Scotch Tape® going down here t'night . . . Suffering through it with a selection of craft ales. oi, but for some proper Islay single malt . . .

Looks like the beginnings of a beautiful valve adjustment: Step 1) remove the rocker covers!

BTW, how do your battery voltages look (OCV, cranking, idle, and at some rpm)?

Not everything that applies to Ducati applies to the V11, not disputing that he is a top-notch Ducati tech. I just can't imagine you'll get your V11 to run right with the air bleeds at 1/4 out. His assertion that the ECU needs to be told about the TPS change might apply to what he's used to working on , but not the ECU in the V11. I commend you for hanging tough working through all the frustration of getting your V11 running right! You can do this!

Backfiring is so often a function of some kind of unmetered air/exhaust leak, or throttle bodies out of synch. Bad or loose rubber intake connections, open intake vacuum tap, loose/leaky exhaust connection. FWIW, I can't agree with the tech you spoke to. Very small air bleed openings have been terribly unforgiving at idle (where they do their work) in my experience, and *no* the ECU doesn't have to be 'told', it "sees." Before going further, it would be advisable to make sure your CO fuel trim is not set at some stupidly low (federal) level. Guzzidiag and the proper cabling is worth the investment!

This is the battery that is original specification for the V11: Odyssey PC545: http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/PC545.html (I picked that vendor randomly, but it seems $128US is a good price for these batteries.) Having come to the time of year to be servicing batteries, I have re-posted on the Tech Topics thread some concerns about conditioning, charging and maintaining "float." The charger MUST have the correct charge and float voltages specific to the AGM: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838 While 4-5 years is seemingly good battery life, these AGM will go 8-10 years with carefully applied practices.

Although the white knob is on the left, it simply synchronizes the two throttle bodies so that they pull the same vacuum. As they come into synch, your idle may go up. Simply back off the idle stop screw to get it to idle where you want (~1050 +/-). Changing the air screws also will affect idle speed. Leaving off the RH screw while you do this hurts nothing and makes the setting approachable. If you wish to set the RH idle stop screw, you can do this last. If the linkage is sloppy and absolutely requires both idle stop screws, the right hand end connector may be worn or damaged; easy replacement with Volvo or Mercedes part. Also, make certain your high idle cam is not fouling the right side making for an artificially high idle.

If it were me, I'd delete the right hand idle screw. Use the white knob to balance and the left hand screw to set the idle. Scud has a good procedure there. Yet 1/2 turn air screws never worked for me, always ending up back at a bout one full turn out from closed (remove them and clean them).

'tis the season, as we say! . . for conditioning batteries at least! Having continued to struggle with manually charging my five AGM batteries with four different chargers (none of which are correct for the AGM), I'm ready to spring for a modern charger that meets the voltage/amperage requirements for the care and feeding of the AGM like the Odyssey PC545 many of us use in the V11. I'd say I'm pretty die-hard, but not sure if I should spell that: DieHard® . . .

As I recall, when we "zeroed" the CO trim on my 15M (with VDSTS), the AFR at the header bungs was 14.7 (theoretically a Lambda of 1.00). Coming from >minus 27 Yet, if the Guzzi would be even happier at Lambda of 0.7-0.98, is there any correlation of steps between the 15M CO scale and expected Lambda change? In other words, if CO trim >zero

I can say that I tried to move my TPS baseline to 165mV (having thought there is a +/- range for the baseline TPS setting, but there is no range, the value is specified. My Sport runs better with the TPS at 150mV compared to 165mV. The *theory* at the time was to "trick" the ECU to enrichen the AFR throughout the range. For reasons that are (more) obvious now, it didn't work, especially at low throttle openings. I can look at my notes, but I've had it at 150mV for quite a long time. Long enough to see if the minute difference to 156mV is discernible in any way (for me).

Gentlemen, all is well with this discussion. Thank you for keeping it up in this thread. It is both thought provoking and revealing. There is much to learn from all contributors and I, for one, appreciate the open discussion.

I would like to understand this better?

I would, otherwise, be suspicious of such low miles thinking the odometer might have packed it in. But look at that pristine alternator cover!

Like an open cockpit aircraft with a rowdy engine? Welcome home!

And all the forward fittings are snugged up? (steering damper, oil cooler, exhaust headers, fairing fasteners and all?)

It is very interesting the critical nature of the TPS baseline with the throttle plate COMPLETELY closed (including releasing all screws, connections and the high idle system as well as cleaning the throttle plate in the bore), and that 156 mV is the actual measure. I would consider this Step One. @ggo: No, your PCIII won't read or adjust the CO trim, which is often set "~minus 30" from the factory. My thinking: CO trim is Step Two. Bleed screw settings are from the closed position. Mine get quite sooty and benefit from a cleaning of the screw tips and their receptacles (every valve adjustment?) Here, I may disagree with Meinolf and Kiwi_Roy, but if the screws are going to bleed air, shouldn't that be taken into consideration in the final AFR and synchronization? Absolutely agreed that, once all the baselines are set (TPS, CO, valves, careful synchronization) that the idle can go where you like. Some like a low, grumpy idle (shows off the cam!), while I like mine up a bit; seems much more stable in the higher ambient temps in my region (>90ºF/32ºC).

Modified airbox (like open-top or drilled top)?

Footgoose, Sent you a pm . . . thanks!!

'tis the season!

I used to take my taps in and out, replacing them with the screws, which finally led to a HeliCoil. Now I use rubber caps on the nipples and carry extras in case one tears or comes off.

On the cusp of rolling over 100,000 miles, people ask what I need to do to the Sport. Bearings? Rings? Cam? Gearbox? No, but, ooh, but that seat comes to mind! Anyone have an early seat pan I could have my way with? Having had a Corbin (Café GL1000) which seemed so hard, and seen the good quality of both Sargent's and Rich Maund seats, I would be most inclined to have my local guys fit one to my particular case; and go back to have them reshape it a bit if necessary. Hmm, an early seat pan . . . Anymore, foam products are so complex . . . I'd consider a dual layer, or "duplex" approach to balance support with a comfort layer. I'd sure like to come across an old seat pan . . .

That sure beats pulling the front cover, which the hardest part of the valve adjustment. @Gottagetone, you'll be pleasantly surprised how your V11 responds to the complete tune-up. Sticks and stones aside, a digital voltmeter and guzzidiag make the process a breeze along with the correct three cables. This will allow you to set the baselines on the TPS, CO fuel trim, and idle speed before the throttle body synch. Sounds like a lot, but it's do-able and the bike will likely run great!

Make sure your valves are cool when you adjust them (not necessarily stone cold!) [/url]">http://http://s28.photobucket.com/user/docchaynes/media/IMG_0277.jpg.html'>

It just sounds so cool to say, "Carillo rods." Like saying "Crane cam."