docc

Should I be shocked that Guzzi guys gravitate to whisky that smells like gearoil leaking on an exhaust crossover?

One ground is the bulb socket for the illumination. They are certainly known to get loose and can be secured with JB Weld or the likes while leaving enough contact area for a ground path. The other ground must be for the tach function, but doesn't show a wire. I would assume it also grounds, then, through the case and mounting fasteners. I'm thinking that single pole AMP connector is under the relay block at the back of the wiring harness.

The #32 "electric fuel solenoid valve" is the electric (pet)cock fitted to the left underside of the tank on chin-pad tanks through 2002. Many have been removed and fitted with manual versions. If yours still has the electric (pet)cock, make sure the wires to it under the rubber boot are intact. If they (or one) become(s) broken, the fuel delivery will be obstructed. Repair the connection and secure with a dab of epoxy.

The front half of the shaft is only removable from the gearbox output with the swingarm off. Otherwise, with the bike supported and rear wheel off, the bevel box comes off easily by pulling the shaft apart (make sure the reference marks are visible or add some). With the front u-joint rotated with the Zerk on top, it may be possible to get some grease in it with all the methods posted above combined with cursing and swearing. And since you've got the cursing and swearing down already, hell, you're halfway there!

Like a puppy that just ate your shoes . . .

Isn't it amazing that those fuses will melt like that and not "blow?" I'm still in awe of those of you who change your pawl springs on your way somewhere!

Sounds like you could use a meter with more sensitivity (like a 200 Ohm range).

I would think water might further deform the tank material as it does with various polyamides. Exposure to air is more likely to restore the original shape. How full was the tank when you removed it?

I wasn't getting the resistance readings either. Until I disconnected the negative to the battery and turned the switch on. I went from the outboard fuse 6 connector (fuse out) to the outboard relay connector: 0.8 Ohms. As I recall, the ignition switch drops out the bottom of the triple clamp after taking out these two screws:

Having experienced this with a full tank of fuel, I am always careful to drain the tank to minimum before removing it. It is still hard to compress it to reinstall, but not impossible. It will be worth draining it, straddle the tank over a central support overnight, and reinstall by pressing firmly from back to front while someone stabilizes the bike.

With the middle relay out, the bike will start and run with the side stand up regardless of whether the gearbox is engaged. All the Run Switch power simply comes through the side stand switch and involves no relay. No jumper required.

I went searching for that procedure and never found it posted. I can't remember actually doing it, but it was not difficult on the Sport. Not sure how much that changes with the LeMans fairing . . .

Definitely. It's worth working through the full tune-up: TPS Set-up and Throttle Balance Tuning Next, per Kiwi_Roy: clean the ignition switch and inspect its connections. Also, inspect the 30 amp charging/regulator fuse for signs of heat failure.

I'm thinking that will be worth the trouble. Amazing how much little changes can make!

Maybe even a lighter lubricant. I over-greased an early cable (bevel drive Veglia) and the internal pressure and resistance caused trouble.

Nigel, glad to hear you are back up and around! And they used to say motorcycles were dangerous! Post up a thread on the sloppage plate install. Based on the comments and discussion, it will likely get moved to "How TO . . ." subforum to better archive for future searching. Thanks and good riding to you!

Good advice on the routing. Plus, make sure the cable housing is lubricated especially at those tight bends.

My 2000 Sport is like yours, D.

Agreed, with Hubert, the upper eye will give shorter throws. My link rod is attached to the inboard side. And, again per Hubert, align the vertical extension of the foot lever with the vertical link of the gearbox. (Your threaded rod is not dragging the wiring for the exhaust sensor?)

Check it out: both the Starter Relay and the Headlamp Relay get power from Fuse 5:

Those look like good charging voltages for the alternator and regulator, but a battery that is not functioning properly. Or simply loose or bad connections.

+1 on that for a starting point. The loose coils are not likely the culprit, yet I'm not sure how to test them properly. Have a look also at the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist for other issues and how to reattach or replace the coil mounts.

Pretty recent pete-post right here: Sloppage sheets in Technical Topics.

But, as you say, I don't see where the black wire came off of?

That's pretty flat for a battery that ought to be 12.84 v, especially if you just charged it.