docc

Be aware of Odyssey's specific charging amperage (and voltage). Common low amp trickle chargers/"Battery Tenders" can be damaging. (Odyssey is unequivocal about this.) I have seen PC545 brought back from the deep discharge state with proper "conditioning" . . .

See if searching the new nomenclature gives better results/availability: https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/ods-agm15l-battery-pc545/

"MJ" is for metal jacket. If I recall correctly, same PC545, but with a metal jacket. I also recall the EnerSys Hawker Odyssey nomenclature changed. The V11 OEM battery has a new designation (but still manufactured) . . .

nope

Okay, I love this. They're blues. They're Dutch. The bassman is playing my Fender J-Bass. https://wildmenbluesband.nl/ On the cusp of the anniversary of this music thread (nine years!), what is not to love? Lead player's shirt depicts evolution from monkey to motorcycle . . .

So much fun to try and pic a favorite image . . .

Look at where the two bolts clamp the assembly to the bar and see if the clamp has been turned upside down with the mirror mount on the bottom...

Just make sure it has not gotten "sloppy." Check the pinch bolt on the shaft of the gear box, the lock nuts indexing the Heim/Rose joints, and wobble at the lever pivot. The lever pivot bolt may benefit from shimming (mine has a couple of times). There is an inboard lock nut that keeps that pivot bolt from turning. Look at the relative angles of the parallelogram and adjust as necessary to get as close to get the gearbox arm and the shift extension arm parallel. The lever has more apparent travel between certain gears, so check that it is not fouling anything above or the Frame Side Plate (below) in each gear change, up and down.

Well said. Thank you, Lucky_Phil . . .

I mean, how many times can we kick something with so may connections up and down over time before the "kinetic chain" needs attention . . . I have seen V11 with this series of fasteners just rattled apart, simply needing a good fettling, tightening, and lubrication . . .

Next, I would adjust and make tight the entire external shift mechanism. Best done with the starter off. Make sure the shift lever does not hit anything on the full up and down strokes in every gear. That is best done with the rear wheel suspended in order to rock the wheel a bit to get it into each gear.

Here is the thread where you posted this issue before, @LowRyter:

"A picture is worth a thousand words." Something about this says it all . . .

As spine frames go, the Dr. John version of the Daytona and SPOrT 1100 certainly brought an elegance to the otherwise clumsy origins. Whomever redesigned the "frame side plates" into the fabulously luscious stilettos of the Centauro, 1100 Sport-i and our V11 Sport/Le Mans variants really iced the cake, IMO . . .

Haha - oh, my: yes!

Of course a busted, leaking fuel pump needs replacing . I would so still *tap* on that regulator to "free it up" with a wake up call . . . Once all hooked back up, maybe cycle the pump repeatedly to flush the return line back through the regulator into the tank. If the right side of the tank residual fuel has "gelled" maybe a tank flush?

An excerpt from Matt Compton's mgprotos.com: (also written by Alan Cathcart) . . . https://mgprotos.com/dr-john-rides-again

Motoitaliane informed me they are sending me their new Dr. John book in March. I am even more looking forward to reading the interview with him from just a few months ago . . .

Oh, yes, we have discussed this before. While (IMO) much credit is due Dr. John for the spine frame development, and production, the origin is another matter . . .

A non-issue with the early V11 Sport with the external tank like @Gmc28's Greenie. Yet, still a valid way to depressurize the fuel system.

Oh! Wait! Non-sparking!

Good you had a look at the venting. That seems to be in order and in original specification (charcoal canisters). I can't imagine tank venting being the issue here, but a stuck regulator? Yes, how would that be tested?