docc's post in Battery light flicker was marked as the answer
Of course, @Guzzi2Go and @luhbo were entirely correct that in spite of all the little things I tried, the battery light flicker at idle after riding remained. Until I finally changed the regulator.
Although the charging remained 14.2V or above, it appears the old regulator had "failed in a special way" and was "on its way out" with continuity developing between the red charging wire and the case. I never thought of monitoring for continuity there, but it makes sense.
New regulator: no more flicker.
docc's post in Electrical Problem was marked as the answer
Have a go at Relay #2 (counting from the front). Because your (delicious ) Rosso Mandello is an early V11, that current also passes through Relay #1 (front).
Be certain you are running High Current OMRON relays and just treat your little lady to a full set! It is Christmas after all!
docc's post in Sticking clutch? was marked as the answer
Apparently this "retention washer" for the input hub was never adequately engaged into the nut notch to effect adequate retention. The manual does not mention folding a tab in, but evidently this is how the keyed retention washer is to be used.
docc's post in Best Relay was marked as the answer
*Best* relay available for the V11 is the High-Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12
Formerly available here (as of August 2020), but apparently no longer available in 2021:
Also, click this link to find it from various suppliers:
EDIT/ July 2021: Members are reporting success with various ebay sellers (see page 12 of this thread).
Use it in Position #5 (in the back of the row) for the Fuel Injection/Coils/Fuel pump.
Form A (4-pin) G8HE can be used in positions #2-#5. Only position #1, front/ start Relay, requires the Form C(5-pin).
A "good quality" relay should be fine in all other positions unless your V11 fails the *Livin' Easy* Test (early V11), then you should use this High Current relay in Position #1 as well.
The prevailing wisdom says: use The Very Best 5-Pin relays in all five positions,
. . . carry extras for your riding buddies that didn't get the memo . . .
docc's post in aria! stock air box was marked as the answer
Having not gotten to ride much the last few months, the Sport surprised me the other day on a little spirited jaunt through the hills (I was thinking of the SoCal guys and their amazing climbs just off the coast . . . )
I had, frankly, forgotten about the airbox bellmouth modification, but the lovely tone and acoustic sonority immediately reminded me!
It occurred to me that this primary *glass mandrel* provided the elusive answer to the desire to change the stock airbox . . .
The stock airbox is obviously just too yang and needs a good dose of yin for proper balance in the universe. And I thought it was all about science and Bernouli and such . . .
That it comes form "Evil Twin" makes it ever-so-much-more right!
docc's post in Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning was marked as the answer
As mentioned in another thread ('03 V11 runs like crap), a weak battery on a V11 can be a source of frustration.
Recently, I obtained a proper EnerSys AGM charger (EnerSys™ Odyssey™ Ultimizer™ 6 amp OMAX--6A-1B) and have been investigating its capability compared to the menagerie of mismatched chargers I *thought* I could use effectively.
Turns out, the best I could achieve with my "typical" chargers was about 12.6 volts OCV. Which is only about 82% for the AGM.
With the dedicated AGM charger (voltages corrected for AGM charge, temperature, and float and 'other factors'), I've been able to achieve close to 90-95% and better "holding" (less static discharge).
So, three things:
1) Don't let your AGM fall below 12.65 volts before conditioning it.
2) Don't expect your V11's electrical system to take care of this for you. It may not run well and the charging system will get pissed off.
3) Be certain your charge and float voltages are correct for the AGM requirement: 14.2-14.7v to charge/ not to exceed 15v and 13.5-13.8v to
"float"/ "trickle" - LESS voltage on trickle/float is NOT okay. Odyssey states that floating under 13.2 damages the battery:
"Note, however, that the charge voltage should not be dropped below 13.2V as that will cause the battery grids to corrode faster, thereby shortening the battery life."
Again, luhbo/ Hubert tried to tell me this years ago, but I didn't get it.
docc's post in Hot valve adjustment was marked as the answer
+ 5 hours from shutdown, engine temp 27˚C/ air temp 25˚C; valves have stayed 0.006/0.008.
Other than the hot (90˚C) valves being unexpectedly looser, and the intake looser than the exhaust, there are a couple other observations:
1) With the fans on the motor, it cooled almost 90% in 40 minutes and the valves returned to their "stone cold" setting. So, I would conclude that the motor simply needs to "cool down" for valve adjustment, but doesn't need to be "stone cold" or sit overnight; not even for hours. Notably, the valve cover was removed during the cool-down.
2) It's OK to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine. But best to replace them when cold.
3) guzzidiag is a wonderful tool for monitoring actual engine temperature/ air temperature.
docc's post in Steering damper screw. was marked as the answer
It is the Heim Joint: 8mm, right hand thread, male
Measurements: 55mm overall length, 8mm opening, with 25mm length of threaded 8mm x 1.25 shaft
Amazon - 4 for $25
Ebay LH/RH set $14.99
When I took delivery of my replacement Shindy, it came with a new Heim joints. So, if your Bitubo is "crunchy" your replacement will likely have new joints.