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al_roethlisberger

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Posts posted by al_roethlisberger

  1. On 6/1/2023 at 7:20 PM, p6x said:

    The Texas Motorcycle Museum in Johnston City has a Daytona RS and other Guzzi oldies on display!

    This was the first time I found the museum open.

    Who knew you could actually look at Moto Guzzi Daytona RS in the flesh....

     

     

    V11 Le Mans 2003

     

     

    Curious that this black 2003 Lemans appears to have the fuzzy engine/transmission/bevel paint from the 2002 model year. 

    ... or maybe the engine/trans/bevel paint finish is just REALLY dirty so it looks fuzzy in the photo :huh2:

    It looks like someone may have painted the stock exhausts as well, as they no longer have an anodized finish that by this time would have turned purple.

     

     

  2. 15 hours ago, Tomchri said:

    It's a Stelvio cooler I think, and yes I heard that to, not needed with the deep sump. No room for a steering damper.  Like you said it's valve controlled. a little more oil the only advantage at the moment. Pete is down under, here close to the  N pole way colder. 

    I shoud try to get in contact with the first owner, 1999 - 2020. He is the one who spend almost 40k Euro on the bike.  Don't think he did any wrenching himself. Must have loved his bike thou.

    Flyscreen,   see if I can find something out.

    Cheers Tom.

    Wow 40k!    Oh is this the bike with the custom built high-HP engine?

  3. 19 hours ago, Tomchri said:

    Love the punch she has to offer emoji16.png. Dynotech.de ++. But hate the frontend. To much - rake. Ok, she was built for very aggressive riding.
    Rosso Corsa is like riding a Citroën.
    Cheers Tom. b1fdb6d641f3639f85c38a29cbf5fb11.jpg

    Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk
     

     

    Looks like someone added a much larger oil cooler to the green bike above, plumbed into the "deep V sump".  It was my understanding, I think from Pete Roper, that the external oil cooler wasn't typically necessary anymore with the "deep V sump" installed, and even when needed with the standard "flat broad sump" the oil cooler was still controlled with thermostatic valving to not overcool the engine.  Curious, what was the reasoning for this very large oil cooler in combination with the "deep V sump"?

     

    That fly screen is also very nice.  Who makes that?

     

    • Like 1
  4. 31 minutes ago, audiomick said:

    I believe they are both the same number. Check the parts lists to be sure. If yours are two different colours, I would assume that one has been replaced (the white one...). I gather there is also a Ford item that is white but otherwise identical.

    Thanks for researching and posting this information on sourcing these replacement connectors.  It has always concerned me a bit that they were plastic, and over time might degrade and break just on their own or when put under stress such as removing the tank.  Interestingly no one has mentioned these being a notable failure point though, so perhaps they were well engineered and used quality plastics.  But it's great to now have the part numbers and alternate sources!  :thumbsup:


    Regarding the colors; one connector should be white, and the other red, from the factory as seen in the thread and photo below. 

    One assumes this coloring is to help guide reattaching the correct hose back to its corresponding nipple. 

    Although since the 2003 fuel pump and pressure regulators are internal to the tank I'm not sure (from memory) it really matters which hose and nipple is attached?  :huh2:

     

     

    pump_module_2.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  5. On 4/19/2023 at 7:29 PM, docc said:

    So, as pretty as the Moto Guzzi bolts are, cadmium plated, these nuts&washers (two days from McMaster-Carr) have a stunning black finish. That they look like powder coat is confirmed seeing they are Black Luster®, a Columbia Coatings powder coat product.

    IMG_9634.jpg

     

     

     

    Are the bolts the correct size without modification?

     

    Do you have the McMaster-Carr part number for the bolts in case anyone needs them?

  6. Fantastic looking bike, and the next few years of other models based upon this platform is going to be very interesting to see!  B)

     

    Sorry to hear about your mishap, but good news that it was only some damage to replaceable plastics.  And it's good to hear that MG has spares already available! 

     

    That's a big difference from 2002 when I first bought my Lemans and MG North America and my dealer had a hard time getting anything...

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. As an aside:  If we have a "how to" replace the universal joints thread posted somewhere in the forum it may be helpful to put the link to that discussion in this thread for posterity and reference since this will come up in searches as a top match for the topic  :thumbsup:

    • Like 3
  8. 3 minutes ago, audiomick said:

    I got an adapter from Lonelec yesterday. Only a couple of day delivery from UK to Germany (not a simple as it used to be since BREXIT).

    This is it:

    WooMainKL1TALIA_850x660_New_2-510x396.jp

    https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-jpdiag-ducatidiag-tuneecu-kit-kl-1talia-3-pin-connection/

     

    I haven't tried it yet, but am absolutely confident that it will work. What I like is the elegance of it. I really dislike having adapters plugged in to adapters. Messy, fiddly, and too many possible sources of poor contacts and what have you.

    This thing has a connector for the plug on the bike on one, and at the other end a connector for a standard USB cable. There is a socket on the side of it for 12 DC in, and a pair of alligator clips with an appropriate plug to connect to the battery are supplied. Alternately, one could use a 12V DC power supply with the appropriate connector.

    There are four LEDs on the top, labelled respectively "power OBD", "power USB", "RX" (receive) and "TX" (transmit).

    The text on the website emphasises  that "It uses a genuine FTDi chipset", which Bernd stipulates as a requirement for the OBD adapter on the Guzzidiag download site, and in his documentation in the german forum.

     

     

     

    Great, well let everyone know if it works as advertised!  :thumbsup:

     

     

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, motortouring said:

    I borrow this picture, since I got a luggage rack like this. Like the TS, I also have a mounting problem, but then with this rack.

    I mounted the subframe and now the rack is next.

    The subframe has 3 holes for the rack on both sides. The center hole of these 3 is just a 8mm hole that can be used to fix a M8 bold in a threadhole in the racktube. The subframe has nuts welded on the two other holes M8 for fixing with bolts from the outside of the rack. 

    But these M8 can not be used because the rack  has 6mm holes. Does anybody know how Stucchi had imagined to do this?

    I could drill the 6mm holes to 8mm, but it seems their is no room for the head of a M8 bolt. 

    Does anybody have experience with this?

     

    I've never seen that subframe used with the V11 Sport tail rack.  So I'm sorry to say I can't offer any guidance.

     

    But I'll be interested to see if someone else has experience with it since it seems like a more unique/unusual mounting for the rack.

     

    Good luck!

  10. 14 hours ago, docc said:

    I will report back on the results of installing fresh, correct O-rings on the Air Bypass Screws. There are many (many) culprits to exorcise that contribute to the V11 sub-4000 rpm hiccup/cough. As, @Tomchri has said, " the TPS is VERY important ."

    Yet, one of the most maddening hiccup/cough sources to contribute to my (ongoing) madness: a very slightly loose vacuum tap and dried out rubber cap:

    (Yes. It made THAT much difference. :glare:)

    IMG_9357.jpg

     

    And, yep, sometimes those superficial intake rubber cracks aren't just on the surface:

    IMG_5301.jpg

     

     

    In case we forget that "Ignition" issues can send us down the "Fuel/Air/Map" rabbit holes, this coil -> ignition wire connection failure took a long time to reveal itself . . .

    IMG_5909.jpg

    Were you able to just successfully clean it with electronics cleaner?

     

  11. 32 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

    Yes, the heat shield is present on the long tanks as well and like you said, it has a tendency to loose adhesion and come off at the edges. I’d actually be curious to know what kind of glue anyone has used to stick it back on and how well it held up.

    And if anyone has ever replaced it, what type of material was used for it.

     

    Same here.  My heat shielding that I put on 15+ years ago is now falling off... no surprise really, and that's actually a pretty good track record.  But it would be great to hear about any "forever" glue for that application.

     

    To be honest I think all of that heat shielding is now rotten and brittle anyway.  So I probably need to replace it with something newer and maybe better.

  12.  

    Wanted:  Moto Guzzi Small Sport Windscreen for a California/EV - MG part number GU03575102

    This is the smaller of the two OEM windscreens that were available for the California models in the late 90s and early 2000s.

    These apparently are no longer available new, unless one just runs across one "new old stock" sitting on a dealer shelf somewhere.

    Using photos of Bill's cool "hot dog with mustard" EV as an example of what I'm looking for :sun:

     

    Guzzi-Sport-Windscreen-1-GU03575102.jpg

    Guzzi-Sport-Windscreen-2-GU03575102.jpg

    Guzzi-Sport-Windscreen-3-GU03575102.JPG

  13. 1 hour ago, p6x said:

     

    Unfortunately that first seat is from a pre-1998, and won't mount to a 1998+

    I'll look at the listings for the second link, but being overseas can be a challenge of course.

    ...and it's funny that the third link goes to the "Moto Guzzi California" FB group, which I had searched for but didn't find!  That's potentially very helpful :bike:

     

    Thanks!

     

    • Like 1
  14. Thanks, I've seen those on eBay, but none of those will fit, especially the main seat example. That pre-1998 "button" style, which BTW I don't mind from a styling perspective, unfortunately has a different seat-pan and latching mechanism.  These pre-1998 seats are relatively common, but won't fit.

     

    Some later 2000+ main seats may fit, but I'd have to see the seat to make sure.

     

    The earlier or later (than 1998-2000) pillions also are relatively common, and I have one of the later pillions already which I'll try once the ECU is moved.  The later pillions also though will not fit a 1998 due to ECU under the seat, unless I relocate the ECU, and some of the earlier "button" style pillions may.  I'd consider a 1998 pillion though if someone had one for sale just so everything mates up as stock.  Most of the ones on eBay are stratospherically priced with shipping, or won't ship to the USA.

     

    So my main need is a 1998+ main seat.

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