GuzziMoto

And what is going to provide the heat to raise the temp of the sensor above the temp of the engine? It does not matter how long you leave something in a 200 degree oven, it will NEVER get above 200 degrees. It will not happen. This thread would have serious value if people actually measured things like what the sensor reads instead of speculating on why the ETS reads higher then the actual engine temp with out any evidence that it does. Not to mention that above a certain temp it does not matter anymore. The ECU only responds to temps up to a certain point and above that it does not matter. The sensors range is not "spec'd to 125C", that is just what the table covers. Thermistors have a large range that they respond to, and while the sensor probably isn't as accurate as you go further and further past 100 degrees C it does likely keep going for a while. Probably long past the point where the ECU stops caring. Yes, fudging the ETS can alter the way the bike runs, so can fudging the TPS or the IAT sensor. That does not mean it is the right thing to do. But if you do wish to do so, go ahead. Just don't kid yourself or anybody else that it is anything other then a bodge.

First off, I specifically directed my questions (yes, there were questions in my post) at dlaing and not you because I knew you would go on and on about this and that without actually answering the questions. Maybe dlaing will. And second, the fact that you seem to think the ETS will get hotter then the thing that heats it up (the motor) and I do not does not make you a genius. In fact some might say it makes you a bit less. Yes, there is a lot of miss information and false assumptions in this thread. I hope others can tell the difference between good info and bad atleast as well as I can. Do what you will in regards to tricking your ECU, but how fast you can type is not a reflection of your I.Q..

I gotta ask, dlaing, in regards to ypur statement "I still suspect the sensor is getting too hot." what is the source of heat that is making the sensor too hot (for that matter what is your definition of "too hot"). If you have a 200 degree source of heat it is pretty hard to heat something up with that to a temp higher then 200 degrees. The sensor, if in good contact with the motor, will never (in normal use) be hotter then the motor. The motor is a large chunk of aluminum that contains the heat source. The sensor is a small bit of copper and brass that has no heat source and derives all of its heat from the motor. Therefore, it can not heat up to a temp higher then the motor. It will heat up and cool down entirely based on the temp of the motor. Also, I submit that the fact that someones Guzzi does not run quite right with the temp sensor giving a good reading of the engine temp and if they fudge that reading to make it read lower does not mean whatsoever that the reason the bike does not run right is because of the engine temp sensor. The ETS is just an input that the ECU uses to establish outputs. Something is making the bike run lean at idle and fudging the ETS reading to a lower value so that the ECU adds more fuel is correcting the symptom not the problem. Adding a heat sink to a temp sensor does not in any way make the sensor read more accurately, nor does insulating the sensor from the heat source in any way. If that is what anybody wants to do, fine. I don't care. But when they veil it in scientific dogma and babble, and they would completely rip someone else a new one for doing the same in another situation, I find it humerous at the least and possibly offensive. This has become a thread about rigging a ETS to read lower then it should to trick the ECU into adding more fuel to make up for something else not being right. It has been humerous but don't pretend it is anything of serious value. Edit; Page 35, WOOOOHOOO. We're getting there.

Jesus guys, why are you so mean to poor Ratchet. He could be on to something. Clearly the CHT sensor is not accurate or the bike would run perfect. Why would you suggest that he needs to measure the reading it provides and compare that to what the actual cylinder head temp is when he already has proof that it is not reading correctly, the aforementioned running issues. Clearly part of the problem is it needs a heat sink, after all there are fins on the motor so there should be fins on the temp sensor or they'll never read the same. And clearly the little temp sensor Guzzi uses stock has way more thermal inertia then the motor does so you need to address that to. How is the stock temp sensor going to keep its temp the same as the motors? Obviously it won't. It's gonna heat up and get substantially hotter with out something to pull heat back out of the sensor into the motor, or is it keeping a fresh flow of heat going into the sensor so you don't end up with stale heat in the sensor(hence the need for the heat sink). It's a wonder it even runs as delivered by Guzzi. This from the same guy who said that if God wanted my Guzzi to have better brakes Luigi would have installed them at the factory.

Heck, it just needs freshing up. Should be right as rain with some new rings.... I have blown up some motors in my time but that is a good one.

Welcome, and good luck on your search for the right V11.

Some people love corbins, some do not. I am on of the do nots. I find them very different then stock but no better then a stock V11 seat. Rich Maund has a good reputation for rebuilding the stock seat on V11s. I have no direct experience with him since the stock seat has so far been fine. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10430

Here's some good info on FI. The first is bike specific (BMW and Ducati), the second is car oriented. http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/ope...d_loop_efi.html http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm

I believe so. But I would not call it the most important sensor on a closed loop bike. It only listens to the O2 sensor at lower throttle positions and rpms. And while it is a great thing from an emissions standpoint, it does not adjust the fueling for max performance but instead for best emissions. But unless you have a plan for setting the bike up to correctly run without it you would be wise to keep it.

I thought the bikes with O2 sensors had different ECUs. I could be wrong though. Normally O2 sensors will trigger an ECU fault if removed without some sort of resistor pack to trick the ECU into thinking it's still there. While I would think you could delete the O2 sensor if you wanted, you would likely have to adjust the fuel map and you may run into emissions related legal issues down the road. Plus O2 sensors can be a good thing to have in some cases. If you want to delete it, do some research first. http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/ope...d_loop_efi.html Here's a good place to start.

I'm thinking Argon.

There is more to get out of hot rodding a V11 motor then there is out of a typical Japanese motor because they are not even close to the limits output wise for what they are. They have a lot in common with Harleys in that respect. No, you're not likely to make a V11 competative HP wise with a 1000cc four banger, or even a Ducati 1098. But you can add roughly 20-25% without too much effort and little cost to reliability. Try getting that kind of improvement out of a 1098 ($$$$$$). Hell, just normal breathing and fuel optimizing can net you 10-15%. Dyno readings vary, so it's hard to compare readings from different dynos and/or operators but my wifes V11 went from about 70 at the rear wheel to 75 with pipes and a PC. K&N filter in the stock box along with porting and adjusting the fueling to match has brought it up to 85 at the rear wheel. I don't think the fueling is perfect yet and could see hitting 90 with a bit of time and a few small changes, but for the time being she's happy with it like it is. And there has been zero loss of ridability and reliability.

Doh!!!!

Yes. Edit: You can use other combustable products, not just propane.

I'll pay shipping!!!

I agree that plugging is riskier closer to the edge of the tire and that I would not want to do it but probably would in a pinch. On the Slime issue, I have used Slime and not had an issue, but my tire guys hate that foam flat repair stuff and say to avoid it if you can and if I use it, be sure to let them know ahead of time.

I'm glad your Siemens relays are still going. On my wifes bike, one week after we bought it, the bike stopped running leaving her stranded. A friend of mine, who works for Siemens, picked her and the bike up in his truck. They popped the seat to check out the battery. He saw the Siemens relays and said "there's your problem right there". The bike went to the dealer, who new what was wrong before the bike even got there based on the symptoms. Swapped out the relays and the bike fired right up. We have learned to carry spare relays with us whenever we travel. I agree the bikes are simple, but you do a better job of setting it up if you are used to Guzzis and have the right tools (software as well as hardware). Take what you can get but I would rather a good Guzzi mechanic worked on mine then a good mechanic, and I would go to a Harley mechanic before a Japanese brand mechanic. You may want to figure out what knob you turned, but if you put it back about where it was the bike should run acceptably. You may have another issue going on.

I feel your pain. My local dealer NEVER mentioned the trans recall for my wifes V11. I found out about it from this board. Then when I asked him if my wifes bike was in the recall range, he said he would look into it. When he finally got back to me he said "the parts would be in in a couple weeks". I'm thinking I wasn't sure I wanted to have you guys do the work. But I wasn't going to leave them hanging, so they did the work. The bike was back in the shop (a different shop) a month after they did the work to have an oil leak fixed......

There is a fuel pressure regulator that would prevent over-pressurization of the fuel system. But a TPS out of wack or throttle bodies out of sync or even a fuel pump that runs when it shouldn't and not when it should all could cause the symptoms you describe.

They have officially issued a recall and your dealer should be able to access info on it easily. I will see what I can dig up.

Ask away. It was not the first time someone has asked that. There are a number of things in the manual that either were not translated well or mis-printed. If in doubt, ask.

If you remember where the screw was set, put it back. No, this is not perfect but should suffice to make it run. It sounds like you have a seperate issue going on with something, probably the fuel pump, running with the key off. A sticking relay might be causing this. If you have not already done so you may want to replace the 5 relays under the seat with higher quality units. Adjusting the idle on these bikes is not as simple as it is on old carb equiped bikes. I believe there is a way to set the idle mixture but you may need special tools. I have a Power Commander and use that. You may want to sync the T.B's and set the TPS now.

First off, Pete it is great to hear from you again. It has been too long. Second, I think if you want to build ANY bike into something more then what it is then more power to you. But if you post what you want to do with out thinking it thru and ignore the realities of what you are doing, don't be surprised (much less angry) when someone with more knowledge then you post opinions that don't agree with your plans. Lastly, I don't think there is as much room for improvement in the new 8V motor as there was in the old motor. In order to get your 125-130 hp (if it can make it) you may have to give up a lot of streetability. You can probably make the most improvement with getting the fueling right, but that is hard to do until the PCV comes out. Other improvements are going to be harder to get, Most will either be small and/or come at the expense of streetability. This is not to say it can't be done or that you shouldn't do it. It is just that it is more like trying to get big improvements out of a 1098 Ducati then an air-cooled two valve Ducati. The less refined a motor is the easier it is to improve upon. The 8V Guzzi motor is much closer to the edge of what it can do then the previous 4V motors.

Don't be bustin' on Naty Boh, Hon. It's a B'more thing.

By the way, most (if not all) octane booster is a waste of money and does not deliver what they imply it does.