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OldButNotDead

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    V11 Sport Naked
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    SE MI

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  1. This looks to be sorted, so thought I'd post an update. My issue was a slow fuel seep from the fuel level sensor, which had never been off the tank since I purchased the bike new. Gas was collecting under the rubber boot, so after seeing the photo Chuck posted, I suspected it was seeping through the potting or one of the mounting flange-washer-sensor mating surfaces. I guessed that the leak would be less localized if the tank-flange interface (ie - the o-ring) was the problem instead. I pulled the sensor and found the aluminum washer at the base was pretty cruddy. Likewise there was material caked onto the rubber of the sensor housing itself. Guessing this was mostly calcium phosphate from EtOH-water issues. I also found that the sensor had come unglued from its rubber housing, perhaps because the rubber had swollen over the years (see photo). The mounting flange and o-ring had a bit of caking as well. I cleaned everything up, re-installed with Permatex non-hardening liquid gasket, and leak tested O/N with a 1/2 tank of gas. Next day…TA-DA! No leaks…what a hero! I filled the tank on my victory ride, and sure enough the wife complained of gas smell in the garage-adjacent TV room that same night. I'd had enough. I bought a new sensor and a tube of the reputedly magic Hylomar, drained and dried the tank, and brought it inside where I could work on it patiently. All mating surfaces got skim coats of Hylomar, which was allowed to dry thoroughly at RT before assembly. It's been about a week with no leaks. I don't know precisely why the old one was leaking, but decided I'm ready to move on and live with a little more mystery in my life.
  2. Much obliged gentlemen. Regarding removing / reinstalling the tank multiple times, hanging it partly full to ensure no leaks, installing a new o-ring and blue-goo, eyeing a new sensor on Ebay....guilty. I've never had the sensor out of its mounting fixture, so it's time to check that washer. Seems like a likely culprit given the pooling into the boot. Any harm in applying a thin coat of non-hardening fuel-resistant liquid gasket to the washer (assuming it's intact) ? The upside is that this leak pushed me to finally get some EtOH-free gas and groom the rubber pucks. Just anuther day with the V11.
  3. Super helpful to have this documented! My V11 developed a fuel leak while it was in storage this past winter, and I've localized it to a slow seep at the fuel level sensor. After leaving it overnight, I peeled back the rubber boot, I found it filled with fuel. So, I'm wondering if the leak is somehow through the body of the sensor, rather than past the screws or around the o-ring. I can't recall any mentions of this, but maybe someone else has or has ideas about whether it's likely or repairable. I've got blue goo, but the weeping continues....
  4. I've used Convertibars for some years - got them when the bike was being used both for track days and casual riding. https://www.convertibars.com/ These days all that adjustment range lets me fold the bars in for Winter garage storage.
  5. All knowing all seeing protector of all things V11, Doc, is correct on multiple counts again. That system is long gone. If it's any consolation, performance wasn't nearly as spunky as I would have liked, it made the bike sound like a car, and it scraped in hard right-handers. --OlderButStillNotDeadHoweverDumfoundedAtTheCompleteFaceplantCommonsenseHasTakenAndPrayItGetsBackUpASAP
  6. I was recently inspired to try and improve my headlight. Didn't succeed, but thought my experience might be useful to share. The deflector inside my original shell came loose some years back, and though I've been able to wire it back in the sort of vicinity of its proper location, the output and pattern is silly poor. I tried a 7" Grote sealed beam from Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gte-90941-5), hoping it could be adapted without too much fuss. I found that some fuss would been needed. I may eventually go that route, if I can convince an engineer buddy to design and 3D print an adapter. In the meanwhile, I'll be sticking to daylight riding. I would be happy to hear of a source for a fully intact OEM unit.
  7. Thanks to all for suggestions; in the interest of doing what's necessary, but nothing more....elegance beckons. And in keeping with Kiwi tradition, the verbal synopsis manages to turn that elegance inside out. No way no how would I still own this bike without this board.
  8. The input is much appreciated; I've got an 03 Naked. I'm a hack at electrics (and wrenching in general), but having a 12 x 18 laminated C.Allison schematic and colored whiteboard markers to trace paths helps me muddle through. Will look into the gstallons approach. Unless and until KR nixes this, I think it's a plan!
  9. I've wrestled with startus interruptus forever, but years ago *thought* I'd figured out that my bike had the earlier wiring. I recently checked and found no juice at terminal 30 of the starter relay with the ignition off (ala KiwiRoy's advice), so now know I have the "later" wiring. I'm looking at the Carl Allison schematic for the 2004 V11, with the understanding it may not be fully accurate. Maybe I missed this idea in the various threads, but my thought is to install a new relay - dedicated to handling the "lights dropout" switching. That would "purify" the starter relay by eliminating functions downstream of terminal 87A, so I could hotwire terminal 30 with a low resistance path, and not affect anything else. I would retain the by tapping into it and sharing The new relay would get wired with a terminal 85 trigger (shared by tapping into the starter relay) + a terminal 30 input and terminal 87A output - each pulled off the starter relay. I'm thinking implementation ought to be pretty straightforward, but am wondering if I'm missing something?
  10. Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it. Ciao A man’s got to know his limitations. So, I decided to be a big girl’s blouse. And also got on with it. Given the fear and trembling, I just didn’t see this as an “Either/Or” situation. I think it helped to raise the caliper up, as did a speed bleeder + pumping the pedal. Hand vacuum pump – not so much. Grateful for all the input – this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers!
  11. Thanks for the offer! I sourced a new one from MG Cycle a couple months back, but have been procrastinating. Hopefully this will be easier than I'm anticipating; haven't done much wrenching the past few years. I have a speed-bleeder in the old caliper that I'll swap over, and a Mityvac, so this ought not to be too hard.
  12. I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one. Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past. I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system. This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike. Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that. Does this seem reasonable / helpful? Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding?
  13. Thanks Roy; your patience is seemingly endless. I downloaded the Test points, and other sketches some time back. Haven't been riding/wrenching much lately though; work demands have continuously increased the past few years. Ignition switch is now is next on my Guzzi todo list. I've printed a hardcopy and now just need to create the time and energy to get it done.
  14. Sounds like it's time to stop neglecting it then. Thx!
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