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OldButNotDead

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Everything posted by OldButNotDead

  1. All knowing all seeing protector of all things V11, Doc, is correct on multiple counts again. That system is long gone. If it's any consolation, performance wasn't nearly as spunky as I would have liked, it made the bike sound like a car, and it scraped in hard right-handers. --OlderButStillNotDeadHoweverDumfoundedAtTheCompleteFaceplantCommonsenseHasTakenAndPrayItGetsBackUpASAP
  2. I was recently inspired to try and improve my headlight. Didn't succeed, but thought my experience might be useful to share. The deflector inside my original shell came loose some years back, and though I've been able to wire it back in the sort of vicinity of its proper location, the output and pattern is silly poor. I tried a 7" Grote sealed beam from Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gte-90941-5), hoping it could be adapted without too much fuss. I found that some fuss would been needed. I may eventually go that route, if I can convince an engineer buddy to design and 3D print an adapter. In the meanwhile, I'll be sticking to daylight riding. I would be happy to hear of a source for a fully intact OEM unit.
  3. Thanks to all for suggestions; in the interest of doing what's necessary, but nothing more....elegance beckons. And in keeping with Kiwi tradition, the verbal synopsis manages to turn that elegance inside out. No way no how would I still own this bike without this board.
  4. The input is much appreciated; I've got an 03 Naked. I'm a hack at electrics (and wrenching in general), but having a 12 x 18 laminated C.Allison schematic and colored whiteboard markers to trace paths helps me muddle through. Will look into the gstallons approach. Unless and until KR nixes this, I think it's a plan!
  5. I've wrestled with startus interruptus forever, but years ago *thought* I'd figured out that my bike had the earlier wiring. I recently checked and found no juice at terminal 30 of the starter relay with the ignition off (ala KiwiRoy's advice), so now know I have the "later" wiring. I'm looking at the Carl Allison schematic for the 2004 V11, with the understanding it may not be fully accurate. Maybe I missed this idea in the various threads, but my thought is to install a new relay - dedicated to handling the "lights dropout" switching. That would "purify" the starter relay by eliminating functions downstream of terminal 87A, so I could hotwire terminal 30 with a low resistance path, and not affect anything else. I would retain the by tapping into it and sharing The new relay would get wired with a terminal 85 trigger (shared by tapping into the starter relay) + a terminal 30 input and terminal 87A output - each pulled off the starter relay. I'm thinking implementation ought to be pretty straightforward, but am wondering if I'm missing something?
  6. Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it. Ciao A man’s got to know his limitations. So, I decided to be a big girl’s blouse. And also got on with it. Given the fear and trembling, I just didn’t see this as an “Either/Or” situation. I think it helped to raise the caliper up, as did a speed bleeder + pumping the pedal. Hand vacuum pump – not so much. Grateful for all the input – this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers!
  7. Thanks for the offer! I sourced a new one from MG Cycle a couple months back, but have been procrastinating. Hopefully this will be easier than I'm anticipating; haven't done much wrenching the past few years. I have a speed-bleeder in the old caliper that I'll swap over, and a Mityvac, so this ought not to be too hard.
  8. I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one. Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past. I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system. This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike. Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that. Does this seem reasonable / helpful? Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding?
  9. Thanks Roy; your patience is seemingly endless. I downloaded the Test points, and other sketches some time back. Haven't been riding/wrenching much lately though; work demands have continuously increased the past few years. Ignition switch is now is next on my Guzzi todo list. I've printed a hardcopy and now just need to create the time and energy to get it done.
  10. Sounds like it's time to stop neglecting it then. Thx!
  11. I've also not played with the ignition switch; been scared of tamper-proof screws, explosive ball bearings and the like. I have had a occasional no-start issue that hasn't been addressed through a variety of other mucking about. Can I just thread some allen keys up in there, or is it best to remove some other items first for better access?
  12. Got me some replacements here: http://vibrationmounts.com/Store.asp?Page=Products1.htm Found some in "Metric - cylindrical to 713kgf"
  13. As already mentioned, Step 1 is to check if they are getting voltage - voltmeter or $5 test light will do. When mine stopped working, I found it was the horns. On my OEMs there's a wee small adjustment screw on the back side - just needed a turn or two.
  14. Condolences; seems a stern punishment for a single incident.
  15. Well documented issue: SPEEDO CABLE I've found Roy's suggestion to be effective (and much cheaper than the OEM alternative).
  16. Just had my tank Caswell-coated by a local Ducati shop. They've done more than a few Duc tanks with reportedly good success. My tank was left to dry about three months before being brought in, and it had returned to near its original size. They had it media blasted and then rinsed it out thoroughly with a solvent (I don't know which). It got two coats of the Caswell epoxy and I just got it back on the bike. Time will tell, but for now, I'm just stoked to be riding again...
  17. I tried setting up my V11 way back when, and eventually brought it to a suspension specialist. There's some art and feel that I didn't get from how-to guides. That said, the source I like best for diy suspension info is: Racetech
  18. Some of us who are not detail oriented appreciate those of us who are Now you just need to reinvent Maxwell's demon to get the water out of the engine.
  19. My vote too. Mayo in the bike or car = oil + water emulsion. I lived in Vancouver for a while and seem to remember a bit of dampness in the air on occasion.... I haven't noticed it in unopened oil, but can't say I've looked all that carefully; maybe direct this ques to the manufacturer? I'm going to predict you will find a way to fix this with an ingenious wiring modification
  20. Yes, you can power it up from a new fuse or re-wire fuse 3 from a hot. Here's a mod for a 2000 Jackal Start Circuit Mods.pdf On my list for such time as the garage warms up. When it comes to the line between "inspired" and "unhelpful variability", Italian design often stumps me.
  21. Damn it's nice being spoon fed; thank you. I just dug out my CA schematic and noticed it's for a 1999 model. My 2003ish owner's manual tells the other, less happy story. Sorry if I've missed this, but is the solution a fused hotwire to pin 30 on the starter relay? I occasionally need to thumb the start switch more than once, and none of my attempts to rejuvenate switches/contacts/starter have cured it.
  22. This topic came up recently and that thread is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16928&view=findpost&p=181275
  23. I've heard of this being done (on plastic Ducati tanks?) to prevent the tank from absorbing EtOH and swelling. Apparently, left dry, tanks will shrink back to their original size after a few weeks and can be coated. I was planning to do this over the winter, but now ???
  24. Valeo. My experience was similar to yours, minus the blowing fuse. After the new one went in, I took the old one apart, but couldn't find anything wrong with it.
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