Bocephus

57k miles. It has recently had valves adjusted, throttle bodies sync'd, Brakes and clutch bled and calipers serviced for function. Tires are 3 months old with plenty of life left. I installed a handle bar conversion kit on this bike (Renthal Fatbar) purchased through Moto Int. The original clip ons are available. It has Bar end mirrors, LED brake light with integrated turn signal, K&N pods, Power Commander, Mistral Slip Ons (carbon fiber), Stucchi cross-over, Rich's custom gel seat, Carbon Fiber front fender and custom fabricated rear luggage rack. A set of Givi soft bags come with the bike along with a tank bag. Also included is a paddock stand to get the bike off the ground for maintenance as well as the original tool kit. I'm not interested in trades. If you want a test ride I need cash in hand and a valid endorsement. $4500.00 Located in WA.

54k miles on my v11. I bought her at 36k and aside from some knuckle headed issues on my side of the wrench and a bashed front fender from road debris she has held up fine.

My previous Conti's I was able to squeeze almost 9k out of before changing. Had some radial showing through on the rear which was an eye opener. I just had a set of Shinko R009's fitted last week and with a few hundred miles on them they seem fine although time will tell. They take a little longer to warm up but that is fine for me.

Wow that is absolutely gorgeous. My tank as well is warped big time, last time I had it off I wasn't sure it was going to make it back on the fit was so poor. Front left fork hits now and the rear section looks pretty bad with waves through it from the bubbling. I'll have to try taking it off this coming winter and letting it sit fuel free. It'd be great if it would shrink back to size some. Otherwise ya might see some weirdo with a bashed CB tank on his V11 up here in the PNW. I read recently that the EPA is trying to get up to 20% Ethanol in our fuels by 2012.

callison; I shot you a PM regarding the fender.

I have been in search of a front fender for my 2001 now for the last year or so with absolutely no luck. I happened across a carbon fiber piece on ebay that claims to work with all Ohlins forks for the LeMans. I have the Marzocchi forks on my bike but I was wondering if anyone would know if the mounting points for the Ohlins fender are similar enough to be mated up with a bracket of some sort and not look like hell? Shoot. Looks like I put this in the wrong forum. Sorry for the trouble!

I do have the original bits in it and the solution for it because of the tank interference was to use a torx bit normally used in a removable head driver set and a 1/4 wrench over that with tape. Not the most optimum of solutions but eventually worked. I would have much better control with a hex due to the bend. I am sure with time and practice things will get much smoother as well. It's the little things like getting the feel for it that I am lacking in experience. More than likely I am over tightening and causing it to move. My finger dexterity is not the greatest.

I had this issue as well recently after a TB sync and TPS adjustment as outlined in the How to area of the site. Searching the forum I came upon a thread on TPS and sync that was intriguing and thought I would give it a shot after not being able to get rid of the popping with my PC by richening things up. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13188&hl=Micha Basically after doing the procedure in the 3rd post down (Mr. Bean) my issues stopped and I see a bit of burbling in the 4-5k range on deceleration now. Rides great and is a marked improvement. I am running a mod of the map posted by gh67 in the fileshare area that seems promising. [Thread hijack] What I had real issues with and took forever to get right was the TPS adjustment. Everytime I would tighten the screws for the TPS it would end up moving and throw the thing off. I finally got it set but if anyone can suggest a method for this that works I I would be much obliged. [/thread hijack]

Thanks for the pic docc. It'll make a great background for my puter.

This time around while sitting idly by I read quite a bit on the forum here and gauged that my issue may have been overfilling the whole time. This really helped me to feel like a ham. I found a thread that mentioned the seepage and that after returning to a conventional oil it cleared up. It was one of my many late night searches while pondering my mistake and searching for a new part. I did fill the new piece with redline this time but I let it sit for a few hours draining to be sure I have the proper level. The first sign I see of weep I will be returning to conventional recommended oils. So far so good though and not a hint of seepage.

Well it ended up that the drainage kept going at a regular pace. I kept wiping knowing something was not right until the lower drive seal finally sent redline all over the drive unit as well. To make a long story short I botched the hell out of taking the pinion out and managed to break the mount point for the torsion bar (?) by dropping the piece on the garage floor. Not the removable one either but the one that is cast to the drive casing. Did such a job of it that no welder I could find in the area would touch it. I ended up finding one locally from a used bike. I wish I knew what caused the issue, the V11 had just under 50k on it at the time. The pinion once the rear drive unit was off was noticeably movable side to side and I am sure the bearing was out of spec and needed a rebuild. At any rate it was an interesting time trying to find a replacement unit. The cost of a new one or rebuilding using a new case and my internals was prohibitive. Not a good time but at least it is on the road.

Yeah, I was thinking about it today at work and I know it will gnaw on me that the fuel pump, lines and filter are running along the spline and super heating all that fuel. So where did you end up putting your pump and filter? Did you stay with the stock filter element or go aftermarket with it as well? I like tinkering in the shop as well, its a good thing too cause I love the bike . I'm trying to avoid spending too much time in it though with the summer coming to an end. I'm hoping that the petcock might get me by in the interim and be a quick fix. Probably not knowing my mechanical Karma but it's worth a shot anyway. Thanks for the info on the pump, that is a good idea.

Thanks raz got one on order.

Thanks again for the info. I ran through the TB sync and TPS adjustment yesterday and all was well and she is smoother than ever. I made my own manometer and started with 10 weight oil which was a mistake. Far too thin and impossible to read. 30 is perfect. I also used some small zip ties to keep the hose ends attached to the zerks and they worked fine. I loaded a new .map file that I grabbed off the site as a baseline for mine and after some tweaking it is running really good. I'll upload it and say thanks to all for the great site and wealth of knowledge. Now if I'll only remember to follow directions I should be set for next time.