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Kiwi_Roy last won the day on August 13 2019

Kiwi_Roy had the most liked content!

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About Kiwi_Roy

  • Rank
    Old Phart

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  • My bikes
    72 Eldorado, 2007 Griso, V7iii Special
  • Location
    Penitentiary New Westminster BC

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    That'le B the day

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  1. You can sort of figure out the series resistor value of an LED. A small one like an idiot light draws about 10 milliamps (you can measure it), the LED has ~ 3 Volts across it so you need to drop 9 Volts. 9 / 0.01 = 900 Ohms, that would be the minimum in reality it could be much higher like 1-10 K Ohms, you really need to read the specs to figure it out. Back to the topic When you put the "controle light" in the socket, does it light at all? If not its shorting the socket out and all four flashers are getting power, this happened to me also, as a temporary fix I snipped one side
  2. I just read through the original post again, I missed the point previously. When I had a VII I decided to replace the idiot lights with LEDs so I ordered some and stuck them in, turned the key on and a fuse blew. On investigation the contact on the new lamps shorted out the lamp holders, if you look at the lamps side by side you will see that the contact wires go at right angles to each other. s\So with the LED you are connecting both sides together. I like to use type 194 lamps to replace the lamp holders, they glue into the shroud then just solder the wires directly onto the
  3. Ha, you stole my picture. That 32mm socket has proven to be really useful.
  4. I don't remember any difficulty when I changed the timing chain and tensioner on my VII Sport. Removing the nut on the crankshaft you need a special deep socket or just go with a 3/4" 32 mm socket and turn to with a wrench. I don't have a picture of the VII Sport but you should be able to visualize the crankshaft sticking through the socket. Wrap a few layers of masking tape around the shaft to protect it. [url=https://ibb.co/HCZfFjV][img]https://i.ibb.co/KDnp0JX/IMG-0534.jpg[/img][/url] Oops what's happened to the image hosting?
  5. And don't forget you aren't traveling through the air while idling. Too hot to touch is not really too hot for modern electronics.
  6. A thought occurred to me, has this bike suffered from a meltdown in the wiring, any burnt ground wires around the ECU or the ground wire from the Voltage regulator to battery negative? Its really difficult to troubleshoot remotely when you are not sure exactly what version of the wiring diagram you have.
  7. I think this may be the appropriate wiring diagram Fuse 8 is spare, no electrical petcock Removing Fuse 1 or fuse 2 or the relays (46) or (49) associated with the ECU should stop the engine do you agree, I think the relays are 4 & 5 in position. The main interlock through the one way connector (57) to relay (49) coil MUST turn off with the key OR the kill switch, the relay base is a good place to verify that with a test light io chassis. Click on the diagram to Zoom in.
  8. At a first guess I would pull the ignition switch off to see if the wire is not broken and touching behind the switch. Just undo the two Phillips screws that lets the block drop off. Refresh the Vaseline while you have it off.
  9. A most interesting problem What year and what model is the bike? I'm sure there is a simple explanation.
  10. Docc, Are you sure its discharging, my V7iii will sit at 14.7 all day while riding but it drops to high 12s overnight even if disconnected. Its risky trying to read the leakage current with a multimeter, very easy to blow the fuse in the meter then it will read zero for sure. One method I use is to connect a small incandescent lamp in series with the meter on milliamp range it will act as a current limit to protect the meter fuse.
  11. That must be where I read it. I dont use tin plated wire but I always dip the wire in Vaseline before crimping, it keeps the copper bright.
  12. I have never bothered but you can buy wire that is tin plated, they use it on boats a lot so a marine store is a likely source. I think it would stand up to the conditions in the alternator better, Docc, can you give us the model No of your regulator so I can look up the connection, there might be something in the wiring instructions that pops out. Roy
  13. The original Ducati Energias drew about 15 milliamps from the reference circuit (headlight) but when the key is off it doesn't draw anything. My aftermarket direct connect regulator from Electrosport drew 0.3 milliamps all the time On or Off It should not be possible to get current back flowing from the battery to the yellow wires.
  14. Replacing the wires is dead simple but you might need a 40 Watt iron, one with a pencil bit may not have quite enough heat A soldering gun would have plenty of heat or something like a Weller thermostatically controlled one, there's certainly no nend to replace the stator just because the wires are shot. Out of interest here is the stator from my V7 Special
  15. They are referring to the insulation resistance 10 MΩ is what you can expect with new wiring but even 0.5 MΩ is perfectly adequate. We don't normally bother with measuring the insulation resistance for 12V wiring but its standard practice for mains wiring its done at a DC Voltage if I recall correctly 1.5 x normal Voltage so it requires a special meter commonly referred to as a Megger, not just a normal multimeter. If you use new copper wire you will find it solders well to the existing coils.
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