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Kiwi_Roy last won the day on November 7 2020

Kiwi_Roy had the most liked content!

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  • My bikes
    72 Eldorado, 2007 Griso, V7iii Special
  • Location
    Penitentiary New Westminster BC

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Community Answers

  1. Some of the Electrosports are a direct replacement so they suffer from the same flakey Voltage reference. Which model did you buy?
  2. I find the easiest way to gap the sensor is to stick something like a glob of JB Weld on the tip, bolt it in place, wait for the JBW to set up then remove it again and measure the blob with a pair of callipers.
  3. Are you also posting on Wild Guzzi that would improve your chances, all the Guzzis back then used the same sensor If not a member on there somehow send your cell No so we can link you up.
  4. So the fuel pump is running but just for a couple of seconds? Is it still running while cranking over, if not it's probably the Phase sensor. The phase sensor turns on the injection relay through the ECU, the injection relay turns on the pump and the ignition coils, if the Phase sensor dies you lose the injection relay, pump, spark & injectors. You could make sure no-ones added extra spacers to the sensor, sometimes that gets done in an attempt to make it oil tight. The gap should be 0.6 - 1.2mm. Probably your best bet to find another sensor is to borrow one from a local Guzzi owner.
  5. As Tomchi said, here's the schematic, the sensor has a short cable plugged in under the tank somewhere, measure between 1 & 2. Note also how the petcock fuse is right on the critical path battery to ECU relay, if you hot wire to fuse 8 it will also energize the ECU relay, the ECU will energize the injection relay. Actually that's a good point, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key On, if not it's something missing in the main interlock circuit. The pump will still run even if the Phase sensor has failed but only for a couple of seconds, if the pumps not running for the initial 2 seconds chinches are the Phase sensor is OK. (its a while since I looked at an old guzzi wiring LOL) When you turn the key On the pump runs independent of the sensor but only for a couple of seconds. When you crank the motor the sensor lets the ECU know and it turns the pump back On Actually for the starter to work, ignition switch, Sidestand relay and kill switch all have to be closed, that feeds the Start button.
  6. It might well be the phase sensor others have suggested but it could be just a simple electrical fault. I would hot wire from the battery to the ECU, that will tell you one way or the other. The phase sensor is a very simple device, just a coil wound over a small magnet but it's absolutely vital, a good idea to carry one on a trip because there isn't work around that I know of. Sorry I don't seem to be able to post a link here but basically you need to be able to liven up fuse 8, the petcock fuse, that will back feed the ECU relay and so turn on the ECU. Be warned this will bypass the ignition switch, side stand switch and kill switch but that beats being stuck on the road. An alternative is reading the Voltage at fuse 8 with the key On, it should be alive, if not it's one of the 3 switches I listed above. I had a light on fuse 8, Docc named it the Go Winkie light.
  7. Those brackets are super strong, i used to pick up the rear of the bike by the brackets.
  8. It doesn't come on a stick like the VII ones but I'm fairly sure its value is the same, it would certainly work with an in tank fuel pump. You could adapt the V7 one by carving open the stick to access the connections. I would try to avoid having to re-make the tank seal.
  9. The sensor is a thermistor, no capacitance at all just resistance that changes with temperature, yours read 1.4k because it was reasonably warm then you dipped it in fuel and cooled it down. I just went through this again with a V7 owner, he took the regular speedo off snd wanted to use a 12 Volt LED in its place. He tried using the LED directly with his sensor but of course found it was always lit. I tried to talk him into using an incandescent like the VIIs use but he wasn't having it Measuring the sensor on my V7 the thermistor is ~1,800 Ohms when cold (it will vary slightly depending on your fuel temperature) When the fuel drops below the sensor the V7 sensor starts to warm slowly until it's only around 90 Ohms. You have to be really careful not to supply too much current as the sensor will just keep getting hotter and hotter until it fuses in a puff of smoke, the small lamp that the VII comes with is nicely balanced for the sensor, as the current goes up it lights and the current falls back. The V7 dash does a similar thing electronically, it limits the current to 75 milliamps. I worked out that 150 Ohms was a good value to use in series with the sensor, it will pass enough current to warm it up but not enough to fuse it, the 12 Volt LED is wired in parallel with the resistor, it doesn't draw anything when the sensor is cold but is reasonably bright when the sensor warms up
  10. Steve, Do you have the part No of that lamp, I bought one for my old Eldorado but couldn't find it again when it came time to do the griso. I ended up adding a pair of white LEDs
  11. As for running LEDs in the indicators you will need a different flasher unit, the OEM flasher operated on lamp current. The current would heat up a bi-metal strip which would bend so the contact sprung open then cool down to close and repeat the process. The only way to make this flasher work with LEDs is by adding huge resistors to take the place of the incandescent lamp load, this is too crude. With LEDs you need a flasher unit that will open and close at zero current, these flashers normally have a third wire connected to chassis. Then you need to re-wire the idiot light, it came from the factory connected between Left and Right indicators the current drawn was insignificant compared to the incandescent lamps in the indicators, about 100 mA but with LEDs that tiny current is many times what the LEDs draw. All you need to do is wire a small diode from each side pointing at the idiot lamp with the other side of the lamp to chassis. The diodes prevent the lamp signal getting from Left to Right indicators, even if you change the idiot light for an LED you will need the diodes. This change takes place inside the dash, no additional wires except the new ground for the lamp. If you decide to change out the incandescents in the dash for LEDs don't even think about using the original lamp holders. BTW, if any of you also have a CARC Guzzi you do need to add a shunt resistor (just a tiny 1K 1/4 Watt) to some LEDs to keep the lamp alarm happy and stop the lamps glowing with the key off. I tried to add a sketch file but it's even too large at only 200 dpi
  12. I like Footgoose's tail tidy, I made something similar for my Griso using the original tail-light but added some white LEDs to illuminate the plate. I just made mine of aluminium, much easier to work than stainless and holds a high polish. I think you need a rear hugger before adding the tail-tidy.
  13. One cause of slow cranking is a bad ground connection. If the ground is not making good contact the return current from the starter finds its way back to the battery via the small ground wire from the Voltage regulator. Too much of this and the wire becomes red hot melting through and shorting to other wires in the loom. Make sure the main ground is connected to a gearbox bolt and not just the seat release lock. The battery terminals should be cleaned and protected with Vaseline. Measure the Voltage across the starter terminals while cranking (should be at least 10V) Battery Positive to Starter Positive (the battery terminal not the wire lug) (<1V) Battery Negative to chassis (as above) (<0.5V) Battery Positive to Negative while cranking (should be at least 10V) Of course the LiPo batteries are known for weak output when cold.
  14. I used Helicoils on my VII Sport tappet covers, most of the holes are not blind, They make a job that's better than original.
  15. I've forgotten but isn't the steering stem on the V7 hollow? Just use a piece of rubber hose with a bolt to squeeze it from the end to expand into the stem. No need to make it round if its hex at the moment.
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