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Kiwi_Roy last won the day on November 7 2020

Kiwi_Roy had the most liked content!

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About Kiwi_Roy

  • Rank
    Old Phart

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  • My bikes
    72 Eldorado, 2007 Griso, V7iii Special
  • Location
    Penitentiary New Westminster BC

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    That'le B the day

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  1. Those brackets are super strong, i used to pick up the rear of the bike by the brackets.
  2. It doesn't come on a stick like the VII ones but I'm fairly sure its value is the same, it would certainly work with an in tank fuel pump. You could adapt the V7 one by carving open the stick to access the connections. I would try to avoid having to re-make the tank seal.
  3. The sensor is a thermistor, no capacitance at all just resistance that changes with temperature, yours read 1.4k because it was reasonably warm then you dipped it in fuel and cooled it down. I just went through this again with a V7 owner, he took the regular speedo off snd wanted to use a 12 Volt LED in its place. He tried using the LED directly with his sensor but of course found it was always lit. I tried to talk him into using an incandescent like the VIIs use but he wasn't having it Measuring the sensor on my V7 the thermistor is ~1,800 Ohms when cold (it will vary slig
  4. Steve, Do you have the part No of that lamp, I bought one for my old Eldorado but couldn't find it again when it came time to do the griso. I ended up adding a pair of white LEDs
  5. As for running LEDs in the indicators you will need a different flasher unit, the OEM flasher operated on lamp current. The current would heat up a bi-metal strip which would bend so the contact sprung open then cool down to close and repeat the process. The only way to make this flasher work with LEDs is by adding huge resistors to take the place of the incandescent lamp load, this is too crude. With LEDs you need a flasher unit that will open and close at zero current, these flashers normally have a third wire connected to chassis. Then you need to re-wire the idiot light, it came
  6. I like Footgoose's tail tidy, I made something similar for my Griso using the original tail-light but added some white LEDs to illuminate the plate. I just made mine of aluminium, much easier to work than stainless and holds a high polish. I think you need a rear hugger before adding the tail-tidy.
  7. One cause of slow cranking is a bad ground connection. If the ground is not making good contact the return current from the starter finds its way back to the battery via the small ground wire from the Voltage regulator. Too much of this and the wire becomes red hot melting through and shorting to other wires in the loom. Make sure the main ground is connected to a gearbox bolt and not just the seat release lock. The battery terminals should be cleaned and protected with Vaseline. Measure the Voltage across the starter terminals while cranking (should be at least 10V) Battery Pos
  8. I used Helicoils on my VII Sport tappet covers, most of the holes are not blind, They make a job that's better than original.
  9. I've forgotten but isn't the steering stem on the V7 hollow? Just use a piece of rubber hose with a bolt to squeeze it from the end to expand into the stem. No need to make it round if its hex at the moment.
  10. The problem is this wire has too much resistance, it has to carry the same 30+ Amps peak current as the Red positive wire from the battery back through the regulator to the other end of the stator winding. The Red positive wire can afford a few Volts drop, the Voltage regulator takes care of that but the Black Negative cannot afford any Voltage drop, half a Volt there is taken directly from the battery Voltage Reference. Remember the voltage regulator is hanging on a bracket that's not even grounded properly, just accidentally grounded where the paint scrubbed off. A short wire from
  11. That sounds right the headlight relay would close but I don't see how loose magnets would blow a fuse. A loose main battery connection could cause the fuse to blow, the heavy current coil is turned On until the contact closes feeding 12 Volts to the motor armature, I tested that by loosening the positive feed to the solenoid, the fuse blew in less than a second.
  12. From my notes, there are two coils in the Valeo solenoid (the old Bosch and the new Chinese starters all have 2 coils as well) One is 1.05 Ohms from the spade connector to chassis by Ohms law that will draw 12/1.05 = 11.4 Amps, this coil is powered up as long as the bike is cranking over. (I call this the Holding Coil, it can never close the solenoid just strong enough to hold it in place) The other coil is only 0.25 Ohms and goes from the spade connector to downstream of the main contact and across the armature. (I call this the Grunt Coil, it does most of the hard work if its wired
  13. Fuse No 5 on the earlier VII should be a 20 Amp, not a 15. These earlier bikes are better wired in some ways, Fuse 5 is direct from the battery and feeds the Start relay, you should never have a problem with it failing to crank (provided it hasn't blown the fuse). The later bikes late 2003/2004 have the start relay fed from a switched fuse so they suffer from "Startus Interuptus" like many other models, how do I know this, because my 2001 was wired direct. I couldn't understand what SI was about until one day I discovered there are two coils in the solenoid, the solenoid has an inrush current
  14. You need to install a Go-Winkie light, it will tell you you have a fault and as you go through the sensors it will tell you when you touch the bad connection. Hot is a broad term, too hot to touch?
  15. It's probably in this thread somewhere, the reason for the 30 Amp fuse melting that is. The cause as I see it is too much resistance in the clips holding the fuse, resistance causes heat at a current squared relationship and don't forget the current is pulsing, its not a steady DC but a pulsing DC, the peak is much higher than the average. So saying my VII Sport welded a fuse into the holder but I was able to break it free and clean the socket up again. It never gave me another problem but I eventually replaced the regulator with a direct connect type. Don't re-use a fuse that h
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