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Kiwi_Roy last won the day on August 13

Kiwi_Roy had the most liked content!

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About Kiwi_Roy

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    Old Phart

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  • My bikes
    72 Eldorado, 2007 Griso, V7iii Special
  • Location
    Penitentiary New Westminster BC

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  1. I have zero confidence in the Guzzi presses switch. if you crack the fitting going to one of the heads it will soon let you know if there is oil pressure or not. I suggest you add an oil pressure gauge, oil is normally ~ 60 psi
  2. I like that as you say you would be able to replace it until you have a chance to solder another in. I had one fuse weld in so I cleaned up the contacts and tightened the clips and it never re-occured. I always meant to look at the current with an oscilloscope, I'm sure the peaks must be well over 30.
  3. I;m assuming you have one of the later VIIs with the Start relay powered from the Ignition Switch Typically there is too much resistance in the ignition switch and it's associated wires. The Starter solenoid has two coils one that pulls 10 Amps and another that would like to draw 40 Amps but just for a few milliseconds while the solenoid engages and the main contact closes, This is such a common problem it's been named "Startus Interruptus", common to almost every other Guzzi right up to the latest. You need to clean the ignition switch every few years, take the switch block off the lock (2 Phillips screws) and open it up, wipe out the old grease and replace it with fresh Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline. There is a permanent fix (strong feed) that requires a direct connection to the start relay 30 terminal from the battery but it also requires a different arrangement for the feed to the headlight relay, try cleaning the switch first. Drop the negative wire off the battery to make it safe. I think your problem with cutting out is possibly a dirty side stand switch, carry a short length of wire to stuff in the relay (15) socket 30-87, this will bypass the stand switch as a test. Further reading https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21206-startus-interuptus-revisited/
  4. Why do you need to disconnect the wires? Chop the connector out and use a couple of crimp links or solder the wires. If you ever need to replace the wires make them a bit longer so if you ever need to chop them you have enough length to shorten them. Heat is resistance x current squared and I believe the current spikes are very high leading to lots of heat. Also i think the crimp connectors available in The America are smaller than the OEM Guzzi ones.
  5. The 2000 will have 2 relays in series feeding the headlight, Start relay Normally closed and Headlight relay Normally open, the Voltage reference is tapped into the wire part way along the tank so its subject to the Voltage drop I mentioned. You will see this if you measure between battery Positive and the Black wire of the regulator The previous owner may have upgraded the regulator already. If it still has an ancient Ducati Energia regulator definitely add a ground strap from the regulator to an engine bolt and consider a method of eliminating the Voltage drop. On the other hand the starter wiring on these early models should never have a problem, the start relay is fed direct from a fuse. Clean the ignition switch, and change the side stand switch, this model can get very dirty before it starts to drop out the ECU Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf
  6. I believe that happens because of the flakey Voltage reference downstream of the headlight relay. This is particularly bad on the earlier bikes where they had two relay contacts in series with the headlight current, The Voltage the regulator sees is normally about half a Volt lower than the battery Voltage but if the bike has been sitting for a while I have seen mine as much as 1 Volt lower. So when the regulator sees a Voltage 1 Volt lower it jacks up the charging to compensate and the charge current goes up exponentially which will overheat the diodes melting the leads off. My first experience with this I was able to remove the potting material and re-attach the leads to get about another year out of the regulator, I also took the opportunity to reverse engineer the circuit. Finally I decided to fit a direct connected regulator, this solved the charging problem however it did add a small residual current that would flatten the battery if left over the winter.
  7. I suggested this quite a while ago Take a maxi fuse link and drill a hole in each blade then bolt lugs to it, that will ensure a low resistance and no heat.
  8. My 2001 had the fuel come out the petcock on the LH side and returned to the tank on the RH through the pressure regulator so if you tilted the bike to the left the pump would immediately pump it back to the right. I took the pressure regulator off and inserted a bent tube in the return port to direct the return fuel over the hump to the left side. Idea being if you tilted the bike to get the fuel trapped on the right side it should stay left I sold the bike before I got around to testing the range I used hydraulic brake line it's available in several sizes
  9. It may not be a relay problem, could be a dirty side stand switch allowing relay 4 to drop out resetting the ECU, try removing the stand relay R3 and stuffing a jumper in the socket between 30 and 87. This happened to my 01
  10. The Start relay in this 2004 has terminal 30 fed from the ignition switch, I call this a weak supply. Look terminal 30 is so close to the battery on the drawing it's begging to be connected there. Chop the wire off and feed it with a direct fuse Also cut the wire off 87A and connect the two together so now when you press Start the light stays On and the engine leaps into life Turn the key Off and the light goes out If you decide you must have the lights turn off while cranking remove the headlight relay coil terminal 86 from chassis and run it to the starter, the second large terminal between main contact and the motor now while it is cranking the headlight relay coil will have 12 Volts on 85 and 86 so it will turn off. When the motor stops spinning it will turn back On because 86 is connected to chassis through the starter. Ther's more than one way to kill a cat, not just choking it with cream.
  11. When I sketched this out it was not with Startus Interuptus in mind, it was merely to show how you can test most of the wiring from under the seat because all of the switches terminate at a fuse or relay contact. It was drawn from a 2001 VII Sport that never had a starting issue because Fuse 5 is fed directly from the battery. In Note 6 I had noticed something strange about the starter solenoid, by Ohms Law 12/0.3 should result in a current of 40 Amps, instead I measured 6 however this was after the inrush which was well over 30 Amps as I proved later when I discovered two coils in the solenoid. Getting back to Vuzzzi's modified sketch and GStallons extra relay, yes that will work for sure. The later bike will have the Start relay through the ignition switch so the original relay has a weak supply The fuse IMHO should be in the wire to 30 Having said all this you should still clean your ignition switch every 5 years or so otherwise it gets so bad it starts to cause the ECU to drop out
  12. The OEM Ducati Energia didn't send Amps to ground, it just let the circuit go open circuit.
  13. I thought this was worth posting here Jack of Roadstercycle warning to be careful you don't end up with a knockoff https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYxtCC330Xg
  14. I thought this was worth posting here Jack of Roadstercycle warning to be careful you don't end up with a knockoff https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYxtCC330Xg
  15. I thought this was worth posting here Careful you don't end up with a knockoff
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