Jump to content

Kiwi_Roy

Members
  • Content Count

    2,204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    57

Kiwi_Roy last won the day on August 13 2019

Kiwi_Roy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

346 Excellent

About Kiwi_Roy

  • Rank
    Old Phart

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    72 Eldorado, 2007 Griso, V7iii Special
  • Location
    Penitentiary New Westminster BC

social network links

  • Twitter
    That'le B the day

Recent Profile Visitors

1,051 profile views
  1. I seem to recall the speedo needle on my Vll in the vicinity of 240 kph, is that even possible or am I dreaming?
  2. It shows it that way in this early document 1989, https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf This is a great read if you want a basic understanding of EFI Connected to the manifold it would constantly be changing the injector pressure, I imagine it would put a lot more strain on the regulator and probably made it tricky to calculate the Mapdirect As it runs now the injectors run under choked flow conditions, the manifold pressure has no direct effect on the injector flow rate, thats a function of the ECU calculation. The ECU includes an Absolute Pressure transducer that signals so it can compensate for Altitude by changing the open time. Of course it also included revs, temperature, throttle position, battery Voltage and a few other parameters in the injector time setting (just not by tweaking the supply pressure)
  3. I use a range of techniques actually, first of all I try to avoid having to put my feet down, so I time it to catch the green, hold the clutch in for a short light, try not to stop directly behind the vehicle in front so I don't end up the meat in a sandwich and turn the motor off for a long light, it also varies depending on what bike I'm riding. Luckily I don't have to negotiate busy traffic on a daiiy basis or l would probably give up riding. It's a good discussion, good to air different points of view.
  4. In 2001 they had an electric petcock.
  5. The riding schools teach you to sit with first gear engaged ready to drop the clutch Lately I have been stopping the engine with the kill switch then turning it back on, a quick jab on the starter button and I'm away.
  6. It can drop right down to 10 PSI or less while idling hot but should sit around 60 at 2,000 revs. I had a gauge mounted on the steering damper bracket, you can hard pipe it there with copper. You also get full pressure from either of the head oil lines. What really gets your attention is the pressure dropping to zero under acceleration if you let the level get too low on the dipstick. If you don't run a Roper plate you must have a gauge IMHO, the light would likely not catch that event like a gauge.
  7. I have zero confidence in the Guzzi presses switch. if you crack the fitting going to one of the heads it will soon let you know if there is oil pressure or not. I suggest you add an oil pressure gauge, oil is normally ~ 60 psi Update I thought I had mentioned that the switch tracks across the dirty wet switch insulator, usually all it takes is a wipe with a rag or spray with CRC For most of my working life I designed industrial instrumentation, you don't buy anything and expect it to work reliably unless it makes sense, a pressure switch that works by distorting a tiny bit of metal a microscopic amount to make a contact makes no sense at all. An industrial switch would have a decent size diaphragm working a snap action switch however switches in an industrial setting are a pain in the arse, we would usually specify a pressure transmitter that could be trended and do the switching in a computerized control system.
  8. I like that as you say you would be able to replace it until you have a chance to solder another in. I had one fuse weld in so I cleaned up the contacts and tightened the clips and it never re-occured. I always meant to look at the current with an oscilloscope, I'm sure the peaks must be well over 30.
  9. I;m assuming you have one of the later VIIs with the Start relay powered from the Ignition Switch Typically there is too much resistance in the ignition switch and it's associated wires. The Starter solenoid has two coils one that pulls 10 Amps and another that would like to draw 40 Amps but just for a few milliseconds while the solenoid engages and the main contact closes, This is such a common problem it's been named "Startus Interruptus", common to almost every other Guzzi right up to the latest. You need to clean the ignition switch every few years, take the switch block off the lock (2 Phillips screws) and open it up, wipe out the old grease and replace it with fresh Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline. There is a permanent fix (strong feed) that requires a direct connection to the start relay 30 terminal from the battery but it also requires a different arrangement for the feed to the headlight relay, try cleaning the switch first. Drop the negative wire off the battery to make it safe. I think your problem with cutting out is possibly a dirty side stand switch, carry a short length of wire to stuff in the relay (15) socket 30-87, this will bypass the stand switch as a test. Further reading https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21206-startus-interuptus-revisited/
  10. Why do you need to disconnect the wires? Chop the connector out and use a couple of crimp links or solder the wires. If you ever need to replace the wires make them a bit longer so if you ever need to chop them you have enough length to shorten them. Heat is resistance x current squared and I believe the current spikes are very high leading to lots of heat. Also i think the crimp connectors available in The America are smaller than the OEM Guzzi ones.
  11. The 2000 will have 2 relays in series feeding the headlight, Start relay Normally closed and Headlight relay Normally open, the Voltage reference is tapped into the wire part way along the tank so its subject to the Voltage drop I mentioned. You will see this if you measure between battery Positive and the Black wire of the regulator The previous owner may have upgraded the regulator already. If it still has an ancient Ducati Energia regulator definitely add a ground strap from the regulator to an engine bolt and consider a method of eliminating the Voltage drop. On the other hand the starter wiring on these early models should never have a problem, the start relay is fed direct from a fuse. Clean the ignition switch, and change the side stand switch, this model can get very dirty before it starts to drop out the ECU Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf
  12. I believe that happens because of the flakey Voltage reference downstream of the headlight relay. This is particularly bad on the earlier bikes where they had two relay contacts in series with the headlight current, The Voltage the regulator sees is normally about half a Volt lower than the battery Voltage but if the bike has been sitting for a while I have seen mine as much as 1 Volt lower. So when the regulator sees a Voltage 1 Volt lower it jacks up the charging to compensate and the charge current goes up exponentially which will overheat the diodes melting the leads off. My first experience with this I was able to remove the potting material and re-attach the leads to get about another year out of the regulator, I also took the opportunity to reverse engineer the circuit. Finally I decided to fit a direct connected regulator, this solved the charging problem however it did add a small residual current that would flatten the battery if left over the winter.
  13. I suggested this quite a while ago Take a maxi fuse link and drill a hole in each blade then bolt lugs to it, that will ensure a low resistance and no heat.
  14. My 2001 had the fuel come out the petcock on the LH side and returned to the tank on the RH through the pressure regulator so if you tilted the bike to the left the pump would immediately pump it back to the right. I took the pressure regulator off and inserted a bent tube in the return port to direct the return fuel over the hump to the left side. Idea being if you tilted the bike to get the fuel trapped on the right side it should stay left I sold the bike before I got around to testing the range I used hydraulic brake line it's available in several sizes
  15. It may not be a relay problem, could be a dirty side stand switch allowing relay 4 to drop out resetting the ECU, try removing the stand relay R3 and stuffing a jumper in the socket between 30 and 87. This happened to my 01
×
×
  • Create New...