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Kiwi_Roy last won the day on April 6

Kiwi_Roy had the most liked content!

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About Kiwi_Roy

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    Old Phart

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  • My bikes
    72 Eldorado, 2007 Griso
  • Location
    Penitentiary New Westminster BC

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    That'le B the day

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  1. I missed that its a 2001, easy thing to do is plug a test lamp in the relay socket /30, see if its alive with the key off
  2. https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf The values in this manual still apply to the smaller ECU If you read through this it gives a good understanding of how an injection system works. One thing that doesn't apply is the vacuum hose on the pressure regulator on the later bikes it's open to atmosphere and the ECU compensates for barometric pressure.
  3. Check if the headlight is working, the tach is fed off the headlight relay BTW the Voltage regulator is also fed from the same source so you don't know if the battery is charging either. You say the charge light is not On, guess what, it is also fed from the same source, no tach, no charging, no idiot lights, nice one Luigi
  4. It should be somewhere near the seat release lock Mine was under the seat release screw, i moved it pretty quick. A gearbox bolt is an obvious point. Some VIIs have let out magic smoke when the main ground became lose, this diverts the starter current to the small black wire from voltage regulator to battery, it pretty soon glows red hot melting into other wires.
  5. I think you misinterpreted my post (more likely I wasn't clear) what I meant was get a regulator where the reference is directly connected to the battery so its more reliable. Heres a Breva, notice how the regulator connects only to the battery Electrosport is a California company that makes regulators in China, I have used a couple of theirs and they seemed ok, They suggest the ESR 515 for your bike.
  6. If you think about replacing the regulator try to find one directly connected so that it doesn't rely on the headlight relay. The Ducati Energia is a series regulator, some owners change to a shunt type but thats your call.
  7. Not a lot would happen, it might effect the mixture a tiny bit, it doesn't change the amount of air.
  8. Your mileage is a lot higher than mine was, i had to use throttle stops on both throttle bodies to get the idle consistent. I would find the point of contact with a slip of paper and then turn each screw the same No of flats.
  9. Before you scrap the regulator do you have an additional ground to it? all the current has to pass back through the ground connections. The small black ground wire is not adequate, any Voltage lost there is Voltage lost to the battery. A short wire or piece of Aluminium strap (similar metals) from the regulator case to a timing cover screw has solved many a problem, make sure you apply some grease. As Docc says the 30 Amp fuse should show no sign of discolouration, dark colouring is a sign of overheating due to resistance.
  10. On further reflection I think it is a faulty regulator, the 30 Amp fuse is back feeding through the regulator and providing a supply to the idiot lights. I think you would find the neutral on as well if out of gear Try unplugging the two pin connector at the regulator, I suspect it might be livening up the red/black wire
  11. Another remote possibility is the wire is broken behind the keyed ignition switch and is shorting to the other The ignition switch block is held on by two Phillips screws up from below.
  12. Run the Chinese sensor by all means it might be fine but carry another spare I would rather have a used spare from a parts bike.
  13. When I built a MyEcu kit for my VII Sport I took the plug off my existing ECU, I had a power commander as well so I wired it directly to the old ECU board and fitted them both in a metal box as a spare ECU
  14. If you look at a schematic you will see the kill switch is powered either through the side stand switch or the side stand relay (that could be called the Neutral relay because it's triggered by the neutral switch). The side stand switches are a known point of failure, they reside in a nasty environment below the engine exposed to water and road salt yet they are expected to provide a perfect circuit to the ECU relay anytime the bike is not in neutral i.e. running down the road. When my stand switch failed the "Go Winkie" light was flickering at about half brightness so I simply shorted out the contacts of relay 3 and never looked back. If I was to re-install a stand switch I think I would use something like a magnet activated reed switch sealed in epoxy or silicone sealant. the current through the switch is only a little over 100 milliamps (relay coil draw), reed switches are hermetically sealed against the environment and rated in billions of operations. Just a small sample https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/switches/magnetic-reed-switches/193?k=reed+switches&k=&pkeyword=reed+switches&sv=0&v=18&sf=0&FV=1f140000%2Cffe000c1%2C2080007&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
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