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Everything posted by Kiwi_Roy

  1. Steve, Do you have the part No of that lamp, I bought one for my old Eldorado but couldn't find it again when it came time to do the griso. I ended up adding a pair of white LEDs
  2. As for running LEDs in the indicators you will need a different flasher unit, the OEM flasher operated on lamp current. The current would heat up a bi-metal strip which would bend so the contact sprung open then cool down to close and repeat the process. The only way to make this flasher work with LEDs is by adding huge resistors to take the place of the incandescent lamp load, this is too crude. With LEDs you need a flasher unit that will open and close at zero current, these flashers normally have a third wire connected to chassis. Then you need to re-wire the idiot light, it came
  3. I like Footgoose's tail tidy, I made something similar for my Griso using the original tail-light but added some white LEDs to illuminate the plate. I just made mine of aluminium, much easier to work than stainless and holds a high polish. I think you need a rear hugger before adding the tail-tidy.
  4. One cause of slow cranking is a bad ground connection. If the ground is not making good contact the return current from the starter finds its way back to the battery via the small ground wire from the Voltage regulator. Too much of this and the wire becomes red hot melting through and shorting to other wires in the loom. Make sure the main ground is connected to a gearbox bolt and not just the seat release lock. The battery terminals should be cleaned and protected with Vaseline. Measure the Voltage across the starter terminals while cranking (should be at least 10V) Battery Pos
  5. I used Helicoils on my VII Sport tappet covers, most of the holes are not blind, They make a job that's better than original.
  6. I've forgotten but isn't the steering stem on the V7 hollow? Just use a piece of rubber hose with a bolt to squeeze it from the end to expand into the stem. No need to make it round if its hex at the moment.
  7. The problem is this wire has too much resistance, it has to carry the same 30+ Amps peak current as the Red positive wire from the battery back through the regulator to the other end of the stator winding. The Red positive wire can afford a few Volts drop, the Voltage regulator takes care of that but the Black Negative cannot afford any Voltage drop, half a Volt there is taken directly from the battery Voltage Reference. Remember the voltage regulator is hanging on a bracket that's not even grounded properly, just accidentally grounded where the paint scrubbed off. A short wire from
  8. That sounds right the headlight relay would close but I don't see how loose magnets would blow a fuse. A loose main battery connection could cause the fuse to blow, the heavy current coil is turned On until the contact closes feeding 12 Volts to the motor armature, I tested that by loosening the positive feed to the solenoid, the fuse blew in less than a second.
  9. From my notes, there are two coils in the Valeo solenoid (the old Bosch and the new Chinese starters all have 2 coils as well) One is 1.05 Ohms from the spade connector to chassis by Ohms law that will draw 12/1.05 = 11.4 Amps, this coil is powered up as long as the bike is cranking over. (I call this the Holding Coil, it can never close the solenoid just strong enough to hold it in place) The other coil is only 0.25 Ohms and goes from the spade connector to downstream of the main contact and across the armature. (I call this the Grunt Coil, it does most of the hard work if its wired
  10. Fuse No 5 on the earlier VII should be a 20 Amp, not a 15. These earlier bikes are better wired in some ways, Fuse 5 is direct from the battery and feeds the Start relay, you should never have a problem with it failing to crank (provided it hasn't blown the fuse). The later bikes late 2003/2004 have the start relay fed from a switched fuse so they suffer from "Startus Interuptus" like many other models, how do I know this, because my 2001 was wired direct. I couldn't understand what SI was about until one day I discovered there are two coils in the solenoid, the solenoid has an inrush current
  11. You need to install a Go-Winkie light, it will tell you you have a fault and as you go through the sensors it will tell you when you touch the bad connection. Hot is a broad term, too hot to touch?
  12. It's probably in this thread somewhere, the reason for the 30 Amp fuse melting that is. The cause as I see it is too much resistance in the clips holding the fuse, resistance causes heat at a current squared relationship and don't forget the current is pulsing, its not a steady DC but a pulsing DC, the peak is much higher than the average. So saying my VII Sport welded a fuse into the holder but I was able to break it free and clean the socket up again. It never gave me another problem but I eventually replaced the regulator with a direct connect type. Don't re-use a fuse that h
  13. Its hard to know I can't judge the size, is it possibly the coil for an electric petcock http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif item 32 Does the red wire come from Fuse 8? Owners sometimes remove the electric valve and replace with a manual petcock. What is the complete part No we can see just 083
  14. Actually the regulator is set for ~ 13.8 Volts, by the time you get some Voltage drop through the headlight relay the battery ends up a little higher say 14.3. If the regulator reference was connected directly to the battery it wouldn't go over 13.8. How do you do that? Either use a dedicated relay or look for another relay that has less load on it. Adding after-market headlight relays will do that also [url=https://ibb.co/4sWhKc1][img]https://i.ibb.co/bH1cQxb/Ducati-Energia-Schematic-w-Notes.jpg[/img][/url]
  15. It really doesn't matter which you run to, the battery positive or the live terminal on the starter solenoid, the battery post usually has too many on already and it depends on where you mount the relay, close to the battery or close to the starter Not the one that connects to the starter motor, the one that connects to the battery. Here are the drawing files, but no perving at Carl's girlfriend mind you. Scroll down without looking! http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html
  16. I wondered how accurate the flywheel is, there are 6 different positions the flywheel can be bolted on, with the trouble owners have finding TDC its highly likely they would bolt it on in one of the other 5, what fun you would have then lol
  17. Tom, when I drew the Simple Wiring Diagram I was using my 2001 VII Sport, it had a direct feed to the Start Relay, unfortunately a couple of years later the Guzzi factory switched the Start Relay feed to the ignition switch causing untold grief for owners. You can see the difference here. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif 1999 era with a direct feed to the relay. My 2001 never had a problem with cranking but the regulator Voltage reference was the pits (through two sets of relay contacts). http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport
  18. Back from the dead? You can't argue with that.
  19. Yes that would work but not so nice as adding two small diodes LEDs are diodes as well, thats why it only works properly for one direction, if you flip it around it works for the other direction Add 2 diodes and run it to chassis and the current is always going the right direction through the dash LED, it cannot get to the wrong side lamps because it's blocked by the other diode.
  20. I didn't answer that, yes LEDs usually have a resistance of several thousand Ohms but what's confusing is they also have a forward bias Voltage of around 3 Volts so you can't really measure the resistance with a normal multimeter. The original incandescent lamp as fitted to the dash resistance is quite low when it's cold, around 100 Ohms from memory. Some LED blinker lights operate with a very tiny current, I recently helped a Griso owner who's lamps were glowing with the key turned off, the lamps were operating on 40 microamps, that's 0.00004 Amps. On the Griso they use a tiny curre
  21. You can sort of figure out the series resistor value of an LED. A small one like an idiot light draws about 10 milliamps (you can measure it), the LED has ~ 3 Volts across it so you need to drop 9 Volts. 9 / 0.01 = 900 Ohms, that would be the minimum in reality it could be much higher like 1-10 K Ohms, you really need to read the specs to figure it out. Back to the topic When you put the "controle light" in the socket, does it light at all? If not its shorting the socket out and all four flashers are getting power, this happened to me also, as a temporary fix I snipped one side
  22. I just read through the original post again, I missed the point previously. When I had a VII I decided to replace the idiot lights with LEDs so I ordered some and stuck them in, turned the key on and a fuse blew. On investigation the contact on the new lamps shorted out the lamp holders, if you look at the lamps side by side you will see that the contact wires go at right angles to each other. s\So with the LED you are connecting both sides together. I like to use type 194 lamps to replace the lamp holders, they glue into the shroud then just solder the wires directly onto the
  23. Ha, you stole my picture. That 32mm socket has proven to be really useful.
  24. I don't remember any difficulty when I changed the timing chain and tensioner on my VII Sport. Removing the nut on the crankshaft you need a special deep socket or just go with a 3/4" 32 mm socket and turn to with a wrench. I don't have a picture of the VII Sport but you should be able to visualize the crankshaft sticking through the socket. Wrap a few layers of masking tape around the shaft to protect it. [url=https://ibb.co/HCZfFjV][img]https://i.ibb.co/KDnp0JX/IMG-0534.jpg[/img][/url] Oops what's happened to the image hosting?
  25. And don't forget you aren't traveling through the air while idling. Too hot to touch is not really too hot for modern electronics.
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