JBastida

Sorry Carl. I mean, rear tire. He changed rear tire. Thanks for your answer. I asume you talk about "Shim F"? as it is stated in manual Is this the only choice for this problem? I ask this becouse mechanic says that he is sure he put in place this spacer. Could you place help me to identify this spacer in exploded diagrams? Thank you in advance, and sorry for so many questions.

Hi guys! I have a problem that appeared when reasembling rear wheel by my mechanic. He changed rear wheel and brake pads. And, after reassembling then, rear wheel is braked permanently by inner pad. So it seems that rear wheel is displaced toward right hand. Figure number 1 is a simple scheme of the problem. So, it looks like something is missing in the right side of rear wheel. Asked the mechanic about right spacer, he told me that he edientify it and he is sure he put it in place. According to mechanic, displacement looks very very small. But enough for braking rear wheel with brand new pads. I post too a couple of pics about exploded diagrams to make easyer your commentaries(Fiures number 2 and 3), and my understanding. And what is stated in official manual (Figure number 4). Thanks in advance! Best regards. Figure nº 1 Figure number 2 Figure number 3 Figure number 4

That's why you are the Administrator?

Zooter, this is as it looks like from outside. I'm sorry photographs are not very good quality. I could realize that mechanic didn’t mill a flat. Clutch cover outside looks very flat at this point. I also realized he put a washer. Best regards!

As asked by Zooter, I post here my answer to his questions. Already done! I've paid a visit to the mechanic. Concerning your questions these are the answers: He drilled a hole in clutch cover. Put a screw on it (number 1), sealed it with some product and put the first nut (number 2). After that, he put another nut (number 3), the end of the spring (number 4), and another nut (number 5). Pawl arm was not modified. As I told you, spring end is simply hooked in pawl arm (number 7). Spring is always in tension. Notice that there are some irregularities in spring (number 6). This is the way the mechanic adjusted the proper length and strength of the spring. He didn’t use any loctitte. He just used a product to seal the hole properly. I hope this wil be helpfull Best regards, and good luck

Hi guys! 38.800 km nowadays. I know it is not a lot No problems so far. Best regards

I place here the answer to your mesage, Zooter: Hi guys! I didn't forget to inform you about the fix lasting. But I had a child two years ago, so I hardly ride my bike nowadays The fix work out well so far. My bike has only 37.500 km today. It means 1.500 km left to 39.000 km, when it was supposed the pring would broke again. (it broke first time at 13.000 km, and second time at 26.000 km) Best Regards

I suggest you to see this topic: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 And this is my experience: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16930 Wellcome to the pawl arm spring club (I think) Regards.

Though spring just move sidesway a few degrees, this should cause some extra drag when operating shift selector. And then will help pawl arm to return to its center position

Today's report: 100 miles of twisty roads in "sport mode" on. Not a single false neutral, nor burly shift. I would say whether shift feeling is improving.............. or I'm getting used to it

So, anyone point to differences in this mechanism between Greenies & the later bikes? I never heard of a pre-02 breaking this spring. KB I've heard that Greenyes never reach to 13.000km of mileage, because they spent years in workshop waiting to be fixed, so they don't have problems with this spring

My first impresions after 500 miles: I've to do some more effort to move shift selector. When I downshift or upshift I've to wait half second more for the last Clonck. It's a little bit easyer to find a false neutral I asume all these happens becouse spring tension is now higher than it was with the original spring, even though the mechanic put a lot of attention in setting spring tension. To sum up, shift is a little bit burly. We´ll see about longevity..... Best regards.

I agree with you... we will know it along the following thousnads miles...

The outcome.... (I hope so) I look like an idiot, but not as much as I use to do Spring were broken. It was the correct one: reference 04238300.... but it broke again. Pawl arm was the correct one too. As MOTO GUZZI states, from last 2003 V11s on, pawl arms are the correct ones (15mm of diameter), reference 01235130.... But spring broke again. So, I asume spring are not properly made. Here the photograf of the broken spring next to the one I bought to fix it. You can see were the spirng broke this time. You can see too pawl arm. Is the one that comes mounted in the bike from the factory(15mm of diameter). My bike is fron 2004. As it doesn´t seem to be a good idea to replace the spring again, so it will broke in 13.000 km, my very skilled and experienced craftsman Guzzi mechanic fixed it this way: He removed the V spring along pawl arm, and placed a spring 90º degrees from pawl arm. After the first kilometers everything seems to work great. I hope this will last longer Best regards.